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-   -   Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S (https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=311926)

Tfrasca 02-12-2018 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca (Post 5749153)
What's so hard about the upper arms?

FYI, I'm currently eating these words. Getting the upper bushings back in is a nightmare. The only thing I can think to try is cutting a section of pipe that will span the inner faces of the bushing surfaces, then notching it to fit over the spindle that has to be there. Otherwise you're just flexing the control arm instead of pushing the second bushing in. I recommend never doing the uppers.

Coupid 02-13-2018 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca (Post 5749502)
FYI, I'm currently eating these words. Getting the upper bushings back in is a nightmare. The only thing I can think to try is cutting a section of pipe that will span the inner faces of the bushing surfaces, then notching it to fit over the spindle that has to be there. Otherwise you're just flexing the control arm instead of pushing the second bushing in. I recommend never doing the uppers.

Thanks for the confirmation. I really might not do them. The lowers were 1000x worse looking but I have to take off the upper control arms to do the upper ball joints...

Tfrasca 02-13-2018 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid (Post 5749568)
Thanks for the confirmation. I really might not do them. The lowers were 1000x worse looking but I have to take off the upper control arms to do the upper ball joints...

Interesting. My lowers actually looked alright, but the uppers were dry rotted and the rubber literally crumbled out. But if your uppers look ok, just skip the bushings. You can pull the arm and leave the bushings intact.

sksmith 02-13-2018 09:38 AM

They were a PITA, for sure, but if you can do the lower's, you can do the uppers.
If I recall, I did get a kit for doing uppers. They are like older GM's, with the a-arm shaft.
Dangerkitty, I'm surprised that the shop didn't have the shims. Again, they look like the shims on my old Buick Wildcat, which are standard old shims. Hell, Harbor Freight sells a kit with several sizes.
Steve

Coupid 03-21-2018 10:36 PM

Quick update. The second upper ball joint is on its way from VP!

Also decided to replace the spark plugs since they survived the pre-fuel pressure regulator life. Glad I did...

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/811/4...af5ba7a0_c.jpg

emem1160 03-22-2018 06:19 PM

read entire thread, never knew much about these 140s till now. fun car for you non-salters. drive straight and careful and keep up the good work

Coupid 03-22-2018 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emem1160 (Post 5771723)
read entire thread, never knew much about these 140s till now. fun car for you non-salters. drive straight and careful and keep up the good work

Thanks for the kind words! Glad the thread was informative.

Coupid 03-31-2018 10:15 PM

Quick no photo update.

rewired the tach with black wire since for some reason I used green when installing the GT cluster.The green looked silly to me. Also properly sorted out the connection at the coil

Found a huge exhaust leak before the first muffler. The pipe wasn't in all the way so the expansion cut part was a huge hole. This involved hours of rolling around under the car and trying to wiggle the pipe in and out of the header. Very annoying but much improved. Still have a few more leaks down there. would benefit from some welding instead of c clamps.

Coupid 04-02-2018 11:44 PM

My good friend got tired of looking at this combo in his garage and graciously gave me a great deal so I can hopefully make something out of it.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/803/3...c309dfca_c.jpg

B234 head with a B230 block and T5!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/811/3...320a9bd7_c.jpg

Hoping the "93" means 1993?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/822/4...5c85cbe6_c.jpg

Here is the T5

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/863/2...2742d471_c.jpg


This will be a long term project. Luckily the B20 and M40 are doing fine so I can piece together everything to make this into my dream car. Plan is to keep it NA, use a lot of Yoshifab magic and MS. My wife's cousin has an MS2 setup that he was planning to put on a BMW 2002 that he just sold so I will probably go that route for engine management.

Tfrasca 04-03-2018 10:48 AM

If you go NA, please rig up some ITBs.

Coupid 04-03-2018 11:23 AM

I would love DCOEs or ITBs but there doesn’t seem to be a manifold to make it happen. Well, aside from the $500 sheet metal one on ebay

MoCounselor 04-03-2018 04:47 PM

I think that there are manifolds available in the motherland...? (I've seen a few b234 cars on insta with itb's on them.

itb-volvo 04-03-2018 04:48 PM

There is a intake out there somewhere. I know this isn't much help but on one of the FB groups someone posted a link to one. I tried to find it for you but was not able to find it. If I end up finding it I'll send it your way.

hiperfauto 04-03-2018 05:44 PM

Here ya go.

https://www.acm.se/en/product/intake-manifold-48-mm-16v

https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...2-2/index.html

itb-volvo 04-03-2018 06:48 PM

You the man.

Coupid 04-03-2018 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itb-volvo (Post 5777367)
There is a intake out there somewhere. I know this isn't much help but on one of the FB groups someone posted a link to one. I tried to find it for you but was not able to find it. If I end up finding it I'll send it your way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MoCounselor (Post 5777366)
I think that there are manifolds available in the motherland...? (I've seen a few b234 cars on insta with itb's on them.

Thanks guys, those look like a good option. Previously all I could find was this thing:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-B234-...vip=true&rt=nc


That being said it would be hard to justify going that route given the deal I can get on MS2.

But then there is the sound lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RL1Hdvy7dc4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyzQqdREem4

Tfrasca 04-05-2018 10:17 AM

Yeah, I'd go with ITBs from a liter bike and MS. It'd take some adapting, but there's no way I'd do all that work and still have carbs.

eBay ITB

Coupid 04-05-2018 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca (Post 5778166)
Yeah, I'd go with ITBs from a liter bike and MS. It'd take some adapting, but there's no way I'd do all that work and still have carbs.

eBay ITB

There's another interesting idea.

From what I am reading, since I don't plan to put a turbo on the engine the freed up space from mounting the engine upright isn't needed. I could mount the engine slanted, use an M47 (with some transmission tunnel cutting) and a readily available B230 intake might just clear the brake booster?

Tfrasca 04-05-2018 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid (Post 5778491)
There's another interesting idea.

From what I am reading, since I don't plan to put a turbo on the engine the freed up space from mounting the engine upright isn't needed. I could mount the engine slanted, use an M47 (with some transmission tunnel cutting) and a readily available B230 intake might just clear the brake booster?

But you'd need a B234 intake, and aren't those a bit longer?

77volvo245 04-05-2018 09:01 PM

http://www.unikracing.com/eng/volvo.html#

Tfrasca 04-05-2018 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 77volvo245 (Post 5778527)

DAMN.

Coupid 04-05-2018 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca (Post 5778569)
DAMN.

Damn is right.

77volvo245 04-05-2018 11:37 PM

We are planning on running a cosworth intake modified the flange to a 16v . should clear the brake booster

AndrewNance 04-06-2018 11:12 AM

If it needs it, you could just shorten the b234 intake like people do for 240s. I know this is 8v but mounting the engine slanted seems to leave a really good amount of space between the head and brake booster.

http://i37.tinypic.com/21erh92.jpg

Tfrasca 04-06-2018 11:31 AM

Oh wow, I didn't realize clearance was that good with the engine slanted. Definitely do that, Colin.


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