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-   -   Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S (https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=311926)

Coupid 03-18-2017 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MoCounselor (Post 5575236)
Love it! You're 142 is STILL one of my favorite cars on this board. Someday, I will find a non-rusty one..le sigh..

Quote:

Originally Posted by NO_SPRK (Post 5576261)
Nice!

Thanks to you both!

Short update, put a 165F degree thermostat in the car today. The old one seemed to work but it was old and crusty.

Coupid 03-18-2017 09:59 PM

Then I jacked up the car and found that the over the axle pipe was super loose and the adjustable panhard and torque rods had worked themselves loose too. Fixed all that as well!

GT142 03-27-2017 01:49 AM

Great looking car!
Are you entering the car in the Davis show?
What springs did you use to lower?
I'm curious how it rides.

Coupid 05-05-2017 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GT142 (Post 5583920)
Great looking car!
Are you entering the car in the Davis show?
What springs did you use to lower?
I'm curious how it rides.

I wish I was able to make it up to Davis but I couldn't. Will try to make it to SLO for the show in September.

Haven't had any time to mess around with the car lately but found a free hour or so last night.

At freeway speeds the car would sometimes hesitate if I gave it gas. I am on the freeway so rarely I didn't try to chase the issue down. When I went down to the garage I decided to investigate. According to the weber install instructions a low float could cause that and the hard cold start. I pulled the carb apart and low and behold the floats were really low. Bent them back into shape and took it for a test drive today:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4180/3...2d6ba4f3_c.jpg


It was running so well I stopped for some groceries!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4174/3...61c1c64b_c.jpg
Still need to fix the rocker rust

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4169/3...eff914c3_c.jpg

My dream is to put an NA 16V in it with a 5 speed but it is really great as is

Tfrasca 05-06-2017 06:38 PM

Good job diagnosing the float bowls. Car is looking great. I obviously support the 16v plan, for what it's worth...

Coupid 05-06-2017 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca (Post 5607256)
Good job diagnosing the float bowls. Car is looking great. I obviously support the 16v plan, for what it's worth...

I forget what you did for a trans. Would a M46 fit in the 140 trans tunnel?

Tfrasca 05-06-2017 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid (Post 5607290)
I forget what you did for a trans. Would a M46 fit in the 140 trans tunnel?

I'll be running my M41 for a while. I think an M46 would fit in a later 142 tunnel (with the remote shifter), but only if you mount the redblock slanted, or find a 75 240 bell housing to mount it upright.

As of right now, I'm thinking I'll end up putting a Getrag trans in mine.

240keith 05-06-2017 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid (Post 5606928)

My dream is to put an NA 16V in it with a 5 speed but it is really great as is


wish there was somebody who could assist in making that happen...

lets chat again soon :)

Coupid 05-07-2017 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca (Post 5607303)
I'll be running my M41 for a while. I think an M46 would fit in a later 142 tunnel (with the remote shifter), but only if you mount the redblock slanted, or find a 75 240 bell housing to mount it upright.

As of right now, I'm thinking I'll end up putting a Getrag trans in mine.

I didn't think an m40 or 41 would be up to the task of working behind a b230ft?

Will a getrag fit?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240keith (Post 5607347)
wish there was somebody who could assist in making that happen...

lets chat again soon :)

For sure man! Whenever your work slows down

JPS 05-07-2017 03:47 AM

m46 will clear te trans tunnel i tink, m47 fitted in my 72 142, but i swapped to m90 and that big lump did not fit. 16v without turbo i would run the engine slanted. because you don't need al lot of room for the exhaust. and the inlet/carbs need the room.

Coupid 05-08-2017 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JPS (Post 5607425)
m46 will clear te trans tunnel i tink, m47 fitted in my 72 142, but i swapped to m90 and that big lump did not fit. 16v without turbo i would run the engine slanted. because you don't need al lot of room for the exhaust. and the inlet/carbs need the room.

good info! Did you mount the B20 straight up or angled with the M47? I'd need to run the B234 upright since I would use Yoshifab adaptors since I don't have a welder or the ability to fab up mounts.

JPS 05-08-2017 03:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid (Post 5607819)
good info! Did you mount the B20 straight up or angled with the M47? I'd need to run the B234 upright since I would use Yoshifab adaptors since I don't have a welder or the ability to fab up mounts.

i am not running a b20, i have a b230fk . slanted.

16v NA would be a blast in a 142. sound will be so much better than my turbo. :rofl:

itb-volvo 05-08-2017 11:08 AM

Here is what my experiences have been. M46 fits in my 144 with a b230 slanted. Its really tight but works. If it ever comes out I might pound a couple of small bulges here and there for a little more clearance but until that time its fine.
M47 fits better with a B230 slanted that's in the chumpcar. Both of these cars have the larger, later trans tunnel.
Marc

Tfrasca 05-08-2017 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid (Post 5607819)
good info! Did you mount the B20 straight up or angled with the M47? I'd need to run the B234 upright since I would use Yoshifab adaptors since I don't have a welder or the ability to fab up mounts.

Just a heads up: if you don't have a welder or someone who can fabricate little things, the swap will probably be pretty difficult and won't be as clean as you might like. Several people have noted that the Yoshi adapters aren't the best solution, and getting the motor to sit straight is really difficult with them.

JPS 05-08-2017 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca (Post 5607987)
Just a heads up: if you don't have a welder or someone who can fabricate little things, the swap will probably be pretty difficult and won't be as clean as you might like. Several people have noted that the Yoshi adapters aren't the best solution, and getting the motor to sit straight is really difficult with them.

not only the problem of engine mounts, you need to mod your exhaust, your brake booster needs some relocation, and there will be more small things where you need welding.

Coupid 05-08-2017 08:22 PM

Thank you all, I will keep on reading so I have a full understanding on the pitfalls before I take the car apart. I hadn't heard that about the Yoshi Adapters, is it because it is hard to get them bolted to the block, mount and body and have them turn out straight?

I've always wanted to learn how to weld but don't have the time now. Maybe I'll just start amassing parts and when I'm done with school have the project ready to go ahead.


Quote:

Originally Posted by itb-volvo (Post 5607938)
Here is what my experiences have been. M46 fits in my 144 with a b230 slanted. Its really tight but works. If it ever comes out I might pound a couple of small bulges here and there for a little more clearance but until that time its fine.
M47 fits better with a B230 slanted that's in the chumpcar. Both of these cars have the larger, later trans tunnel.
Marc

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca (Post 5607987)
Just a heads up: if you don't have a welder or someone who can fabricate little things, the swap will probably be pretty difficult and won't be as clean as you might like. Several people have noted that the Yoshi adapters aren't the best solution, and getting the motor to sit straight is really difficult with them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JPS (Post 5608004)
not only the problem of engine mounts, you need to mod your exhaust, your brake booster needs some relocation, and there will be more small things where you need welding.


Tfrasca 05-08-2017 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid (Post 5608221)
Thank you all, I will keep on reading so I have a full understanding on the pitfalls before I take the car apart. I hadn't heard that about the Yoshi Adapters, is it because it is hard to get them bolted to the block, mount and body and have them turn out straight?

I've always wanted to learn how to weld but don't have the time now. Maybe I'll just start amassing parts and when I'm done with school have the project ready to go ahead.

The B20 motor mount bosses are machined vertically on both sides of the block. The aluminum 140 mount brackets bolt to those vertically machined sections of the block. A B23/B230 has similar mounting bosses, but they are angled substantially, yet the Yoshi adapters call for the use of the same aluminum 140 mount brackets (which are designed to be vertical).

Offset rubber mounts help, but the angle of them is never right, so it cocks the motor a bit. Many people have run them, but they aren't perfect. I bolted them in and decided to just make my own.

dmax99 05-14-2017 08:03 PM

Great thread,love what you've done to your car.My second 140 series car was a 142E,Identical in every way to yours except for FI.It even came with the GT cluster (which went on to serve in two more 140s).About the only thing I did to it was install the Volvo performance exhaust system from the R sport catalog.I had alot of fun with that car,& Michigan winters took it's toll.So after about three years of daily driving I moved on to my first 145.Keep up the good work,and get that rust fixed.

Coupid 05-15-2017 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca (Post 5608315)
The B20 motor mount bosses are machined vertically on both sides of the block. The aluminum 140 mount brackets bolt to those vertically machined sections of the block. A B23/B230 has similar mounting bosses, but they are angled substantially, yet the Yoshi adapters call for the use of the same aluminum 140 mount brackets (which are designed to be vertical).

Offset rubber mounts help, but the angle of them is never right, so it cocks the motor a bit. Many people have run them, but they aren't perfect. I bolted them in and decided to just make my own.

That makes sense, thanks for the explanation. I know what you mean after working with both the 140 and 240 style mounts.


Quote:

Originally Posted by dmax99 (Post 5611035)
Great thread,love what you've done to your car.My second 140 series car was a 142E,Identical in every way to yours except for FI.It even came with the GT cluster (which went on to serve in two more 140s).About the only thing I did to it was install the Volvo performance exhaust system from the R sport catalog.I had alot of fun with that car,& Michigan winters took it's toll.So after about three years of daily driving I moved on to my first 145.Keep up the good work,and get that rust fixed.

That's next on the list! I don't have any experience with body work so I have to bite the bullet and pay someone to do it for me.

Drove the car all over town yesterday and to Oxnard early this morning to meet a friend before cars and coffee. It did awesome but I got a rock chip in the center of the windshield. Already ordered a filler kit for next weekend.

sksmith 05-15-2017 07:20 AM

I don't know what your final plans are, but one of the charms of these old 140's is the B20. It would probably cost less for a big-bore kit with a cam and some DCOE's than swapping to a later OHC engine. And make sure the M40 is in tip-top shape. If you aren't racing it, it should be able to hold up.
If it were a 240, I'd say go for it, but there just aren't many of these 140's left.
That is just my opinion, and you know what those are like!
Steve

Coupid 05-19-2017 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sksmith (Post 5611157)
I don't know what your final plans are, but one of the charms of these old 140's is the B20. It would probably cost less for a big-bore kit with a cam and some DCOE's than swapping to a later OHC engine. And make sure the M40 is in tip-top shape. If you aren't racing it, it should be able to hold up.
If it were a 240, I'd say go for it, but there just aren't many of these 140's left.
That is just my opinion, and you know what those are like!
Steve

You are probably right Steve. If nothing else that plan is a lot more in keeping with my skills as a bolter oner than a fabricator. At the very least I'd like to get an M41 in there

Coupid 06-06-2017 10:07 PM

So I keep blowing manifold gaskets:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4229/3...9cacea34_c.jpg

I just ordered a Remflex and as I was pulling the old one off tonight I noticed that there is an empty hole in the IPD header. It is under the carb so I hadn't noticed it before. Am I missing an exhaust stud?

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4285/3...c73259a8_c.jpg

The remflex is supposed to be collapsible but if there isn't any clamping pressure on that part it probably won't seal properly.

any ideas?

hiperfauto 06-06-2017 10:37 PM

Fuel injected heads have dowels to locate the intake and exhaust manifolds. You have a header for a f/i head so it has the hole for the dowel. You're not missing a stud.

How even are the intake and exhaust manifolds where they share a stud? If they're not the same thickness, you won't get even clamping forces on the manifold when you tighten the nut. It'll try to bend the stud instead.

Which gasket were you using and was it on the right way? Elring gaskets have large metal area around the exhaust ports on one side that's supposed to face the head.

Make sure the alignment rings in the intake ports aren't preventing the manifold from tightening down all the way. The Weber manifolds aren't machined where the ring fits, just rough cast.

Coupid 06-06-2017 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hiperfauto (Post 5622357)
Fuel injected heads have dowels to locate the intake and exhaust manifolds. You have a header for a f/i head so it has the hole for the dowel. You're not missing a stud.

How even are the intake and exhaust manifolds where they share a stud? If they're not the same thickness, you won't get even clamping forces on the manifold when you tighten the nut. It'll try to bend the stud instead.

Which gasket were you using and was it on the right way? Elring gaskets have large metal area around the exhaust ports on one side that's supposed to face the head.

Okay that makes sense. The header has little welded on tabs that make it roughly the same height as the weber intake manifold.

The old gasket was an Elring and I had the metal facing the head.

Coupid 06-29-2017 11:02 PM

Ever since I put the IPD headers on the car the manifold gaskets kept blowing. I used elring and mounted them with the metal part in the correct orientation. The last time I replaced it with a Remflex but snapped off a stud. The gasket was awesome but even the remaining studs were really shot. I through the exhaust back together because my wife and I wanted to drive Buttercup to the Ojai Valley Inn for my 30th birthday a few weeks ago.

The car did awesome but I wanted to get the exhaust sorted out for good.

Ian at HiPerf was able to get me some off the Volvo studs and thick washers and ship them the next day. (I ordered some SS brake lines as well) Thanks again man!!

Here are a few photos from the work:

This wasn't the original broken one but it was an absolute PITA

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4194/...2ec1fd7e_c.jpg

I went to Sears and got this set of smasher on stud removers and finally got the thing out. The rest of them came out with the old two nut trick and some PB blaster.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4280/...5d24e819_c.jpg

Coming together

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4089/...2961353b_c.jpg

I have it put back together aside from the vacuum line from the distributor to the intake that was getting a little crusty so I will replace it tomorrow.


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