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Getting ready. B20 Dual DCOE Swap Check list

Wow thanks for all the info John! I just ordered the carbs so I'll see what's inside 'em once they come in. Then order jets, tubes, needles, etc... from there.

I'll figure out the enrichment circuit linkage as I go. I was actually thinking something along the lines of a bike cable as well.

Even if I can't get it all dialed in, I know this guy with the Volvo shop will take care of it. He's in his 60's, has multiple "round fender" bricks, and will chase you out of the shop if you try to get him to work on anything newer than a 940. Haha!!

I guess I should look into the whole electric pump thing. It's slowly starting to make more sense to me now.

Thanks again for the advice man!

One thing to think of when you got it all hooked up and plumbed---oh and I didn't see an answer about the arms on the cross shaft if they're aluminum with a pinch bolt---let me know---note that the accelerator pumps don't mess around..

They give a real good squirt so don't sit there cranking and stompin and cranking and stomping, especially in real cold temps, they'll squirt a LOT of fuel and real easy to wet the plugs...then it'll never start..

2 stomps initially, 1/8 throttle, crank....no start let the starter cool down 2-30 seconds. 2 stomps , 1/8 throttle crank....
 
Beat ya Nener neener
Oh so basically a lock washer?

I'm gonna go Google that pump right now, be right back...


Shop good, price is all over the place. NAPA lists them and often stock them.
.. In UK they call 'em Silver top for moderate motors
up to 200:

The specification is: 12volt, neg earth, 5.0-6.0 psi, flow rate 27galls/hr thread 1/8th nptf.

and Red Top for 200 up
The specification is: 12volt, neg earth, 6.0-7.25 psi, flow rate 35 galls/hr, thread 1/4tr nptf.

EDIT:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1744/Facet_Fuel_Pumps
Facet High Performance Fuel Pump, 1/4 NPT fitting 6.5-7.5 Max. Pressure
$119.99 $99.99
Facet? High Performance Gold-Flo? Solid State Pump

6.5-7.5 PSI @ 45 GPH.
Fitting size: 1/4-18 Internal.
24 inch lift
 
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Basically what John is saying here is also what I have experienced.
I drove on sidedrafts in the winter in Reno, 20 degree starts weren't a problem but flooding was easy. Only did it once, for some reason I forgot what car I was driving and oops, got to change the plugs in the snow. The Alfa didn't drive in the winter, but cold starts were one stab, crank, and as soon as it starts to light apply 1/4 throttle until it clears out. When it was really cold out I would have to hold the throttle open for about 30 seconds before it would idle. Neighbors hated it, but oh well, that's life.
Around 5psi is what everyone says is best for fuel pressure, I ran about 4.5 on the last car with sidedrafts, also ran that on the downdrafts on my various VW crap and my 911.
Good fuel pump and adequate fuel lines should be a consideration as recommended.

As for the linkage, stripping the aluminum isn't really a matter of IF, it's a matter of WHEN. Mess with it enough and the threads just can't hang on. But a nut and bolt on it right from the beginning and then you won't have to worry. I had the throttle cable arm slip on my Ghia between Tonopah and Reno late at night on the way home from Vegas years ago. Rigged it to get home, but really could have been a headache.

Before you attempt to tune the carbs do your homework. Read up on them and it will become much easier to dial in properly, and you won't wind up fighting the changes you have already made. Tuning parts are spendy compared to Holley stuff, but if you take your time and sort it properly you won't have to make too many changes.
 
Oh so basically a lock washer?

I'm gonna go Google that pump right now, be right back...

No, it isn't a lock washer. The Webers are mounted loose, otherwise the fuel in the float chambers frothes. What you should have is two plates with O rings to go between the carb and the manifold. The Thackeray washer is left with 1mm or so of clearance between the coils. Loose enough so there is movement, tight enough so there are no air leaks.
 
An alternative is the thick rubber squishy washer and a wide cupped metal washer to cover it. Does the same job as the springy washer, just that the rubber will eventually harden and die.

I had by 'soft mounts' a bit loose when I first put mine on, it would do weird things at certain RPM's, where I assume it was vibrating and letting air in(?).

Then if you crank them up too tight the carbs start acting weird because the fuel in the bowl gets jiggled too much, and air starts going through the jets where gas is supposed to, and they can go lean.
 
No, it isn't a lock washer. The Webers are mounted loose, otherwise the fuel in the float chambers frothes. What you should have is two plates with O rings to go between the carb and the manifold. The Thackeray washer is left with 1mm or so of clearance between the coils. Loose enough so there is movement, tight enough so there are no air leaks.

Well the mounts you describe, yep i buy mine ther in Pommieland, here in Fortress Ameica?, the Home of the Free and the Brave there are some other sorts, but the main thing is there should be some isolation or the fuel MAY have a TENDENCY to froth..

I just ate some radioactive paint scrapings from inside a A-bomb factory called Hanford at 0730 so gotta run and do a crack test for me miserable tibia but I will try and post a piccie of what we don't want the guy to do as soon as i can.
OP post piccies of your rubber mounts when ya get them
 
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