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Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S

i have 195 60 15 but most 140s tend to have 4.30 gears. i have a m40 and 4.10 in the rear.

i do 3900 at 65mph.

these engines are reliable at high revs. thats why they were used in boats


I always try to shift around 4000rpm because it gets loud. On the freeway I cruise around 3500rpm. Are you saying that I could bump both those arbitrary self-imposed limits up? What's the highest you would rev a stock B20?
 
From the '70 1800E sales brochure:

Engine

Type B20E. Four cylinders, overhead valves, five main-bearing crankshaft. Electronic computer controlled fuel injection. Full flow oil filter. Electric fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator. Diaphragm spring clutch.

Bore 3.50 in.
Stroke 3.15 in.
Displacement 121 cu. in.
Maximum output 130 bhp SAE @ 6000 rpm
Maximum torque 130 Ft. lb. SAE @ 3500 rpm
Compression ratio 10.5:1

The tach has a warning zone from 6000-6500 and solid red from 6500 on.
 
Last month I drove my 142 with 4.10's, an M40, and 195/60/15's to Tahoe and back. That's two stretches of 4000-4500 RPM for about 4 hours. That's on a slightly tired B18 with a worn cam lobe and some leaky valve seals. And it worked out just fine.
 
Took my '70 144 with the B20, twin SU's, high comp head and running a M40, across Canada. In the summer. Drove for 4800km's, raced it in a Solo II series road event, then drove back across 2 weeks later. All I did was put gas in it, and change the fuel mixture on the SU's for the race. She purred happily at 70mph the whole way there and back.

Honestly, the harder I pushed the engine, the more it liked it. Daily driving around town makes it run like ass after a few weeks. It needs a good rip thru the mountains, hitting redline 1-3, every now and then to bring her back to life.

p.s. keep up the good work on yours!
 
Okay so that's overwhelming proof that I should stop being a baby! Will report back with my findings after I drive it next. Thanks for the input guys.


I used to mercilessly rev my pv. It loved it. Obviously that's a b18 but still. Day-to day do what feels comfortable, but definitely don't be afraid of pushing those limits.

I buried the needle down the Yuba gap in the 70 145 BW35 / 430:1's.

Over 7K rpm I think the valves floated.

i have 195 60 15 but most 140s tend to have 4.30 gears. i have a m40 and 4.10 in the rear.

i do 3900 at 65mph.

these engines are reliable at high revs. thats why they were used in boats

From the '70 1800E sales brochure:



The tach has a warning zone from 6000-6500 and solid red from 6500 on.

Last month I drove my 142 with 4.10's, an M40, and 195/60/15's to Tahoe and back. That's two stretches of 4000-4500 RPM for about 4 hours. That's on a slightly tired B18 with a worn cam lobe and some leaky valve seals. And it worked out just fine.

Took my '70 144 with the B20, twin SU's, high comp head and running a M40, across Canada. In the summer. Drove for 4800km's, raced it in a Solo II series road event, then drove back across 2 weeks later. All I did was put gas in it, and change the fuel mixture on the SU's for the race. She purred happily at 70mph the whole way there and back.

Honestly, the harder I pushed the engine, the more it liked it. Daily driving around town makes it run like ass after a few weeks. It needs a good rip thru the mountains, hitting redline 1-3, every now and then to bring her back to life.

p.s. keep up the good work on yours!
 
Had someone graciously offer to let me use a lift so I took the opportunity to replace the motor mounts. The old ones didnt look that bad and were still in one piece but putting in the new ones lifted the engine about an inch off the crossmember. Much better:

Before:



After:



Thanks for your help Keith!

I also got this new wheel that I bought from NoSpark fitted to the car. So nice to be able to turn the wheel without hitting my knees!



Now it needs a GT cluster.
 
Went to the pick a part today, no 140s but I snagged a 240 rear view mirror to replace my falling apart original one.

Love making little improvements.
 
Unfortunately, no. Not only does the sender polarity need to be reversed, but the ohm range is different as well. 71142volvo found a place to rewind his sender to make it work with the Rallye gauge.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=309835

So the easiest route for my car would be an early r-sport cluster?

I replaced the points today and the car wouldn't start afterwards. After a second of looking I noticed that the small black wire between the distributor and + side of the coil had completely failed. The old connector had disintegrated. A quick trip to the local hardware store and I had that sorted and the tach wire permanently wired as well.



This is the sign of a good car, showing you potential problems when its parked in the garage not in two weeks when you're on the way to WM7
 
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