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Basic tutorial - swapping an LH TPS onto a 960 throttle body

pat244ti

Moderator
Joined
Dec 23, 2002
Location
Santa Cruz CA
So before I got rid of these pictures from my phone forever, I figured I would post them for those who are wondering what is needed for this. I did a search on it and came up with nothing but upon further fiddling, it's pretty easy.

I bought a modded [by The Full Banana] B21F intake, set up with injector bungs and modified for a 960 throttle body. The stock 960 TPS, while ideal for it's variable signal for applications with Megasquirt or other aftermarket EMS, is not compatible with LH 2.2/2.4.

First, you need a 960 throttle body, LH TPS, a #30 dril bit, a M4 tap and some short M4 screws, washers and lock washers.

Take apart your throttle body and you will end up with a pile of parts like this. The screws holding the throttle plate to the shaft are T15 and usually on there pretty good, be careful.



Re insert the shaft [thats what she said], but with the threads facing up towards the inlet of the throttle body [she probably didnt say that.]

Mine was facing the other way, and this was to orient the connector for the TPS pointing towards the engine [stock]. With it set up like this on my manifold [modded B21F] this was absolutely necessary to make this work otherwise the TPS would hit the manifold. May or may not be for what you are using it for




So with the TPS on there, you can see from this side view there are little "posts" on the edge of the throttle body that line up perfect with the slots on the side of the TPS to bolt it on there. All you have to do is drill and tap those "posts" with the M4 tap as centered as possible. Than mount up the TPS and getting adjusted all nice





And the finished product

 
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Old thread, somehow missed that it was there but I just went thru this route earlier in the year. If you look for the earlier 960 TB that includes the evap fittings on it, then you don't need to hassle with the stock evap plumbing, just connects right up. It is also already drilled but not tapped for the screws for the 2.4 TPS. Still have to flip the shaft over and all that, and I had to make a custom linkage arm to run on a 230 intake, but that allowed me to play with the ratio as well so it stayed the same ratio as stock, or perhaps just a touch slower so it wasn't so twitchy.
 
Old thread, somehow missed that it was there but I just went thru this route earlier in the year. If you look for the earlier 960 TB that includes the evap fittings on it, then you don't need to hassle with the stock evap plumbing, just connects right up. It is also already drilled but not tapped for the screws for the 2.4 TPS. Still have to flip the shaft over and all that, and I had to make a custom linkage arm to run on a 230 intake, but that allowed me to play with the ratio as well so it stayed the same ratio as stock, or perhaps just a touch slower so it wasn't so twitchy.

any pics of how you handled the modified linkage rod?
 
Only snapped one pic but it was really just a flat piece of plate with the ball end from a spare link welded to one end. I measured c-c from the shaft hole to the ball center on a stock 230 TB and added about 1/8" to slow it a touch.

SKfOb0dl.jpg
 
Only snapped one pic but it was really just a flat piece of plate with the ball end from a spare link welded to one end. I measured c-c from the shaft hole to the ball center on a stock 230 TB and added about 1/8" to slow it a touch.

SKfOb0dl.jpg

Thanks for the reference pic. I hadn't considered the lever extension to offset twitchy throttle caused by larger butterfly, good idea!
 
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