94teggy
Member
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2007
- Location
- Charlotte, NC / Charleston, SC
So after searching and reading what seemed like hundreds of threads I felt like once I got done with this conversion I'd like to combine all the EZK info into one step by step source. So without further adieu this is an addendum to the official article:
This was done on a 1988 240DL with a B230F and LH2.2 I am going to be +Ting this car so I did this with 541 ECU and a 012 EZK computers. If you are going to be staying NA, you will have to figure out the right ECU/ICU combo...sorry I don't know those but there are plenty of very knowledgeable people here who can point you in the right direction. I take no responsibility for what happens to you or your car while attempting this project and I suggest you familiarize yourself with the existing EZK article HERE
Chapter 1: Preparing for the task
Ok, so to preface this make sure you have adequate soldering skills please. In my opinion something as important as this is something that you do NOT want to use crimp connectors and the like on. So go to the store, get a soldering gun and solder and practice before you do this.
Checklist:
1 - Soldering gun
2 - Solder
3 - Electrical tape and/or heat-shrink tubing
4 - Wire (I bought a 30ft roll of 16 gauge for $5ish)
5 - Wire strippers or scissors
6 - Razor blade or sharp knife
7 - EZK harness from the appropriate donor vehicle
8 - 541 ECU (this is for turbo or +T applications)
9 - 012 EZK (this is for turbo or +T applications)
10 - Powerstage
11 - 004 distributor (this is what worked for me)
12 - 007 AMM (not sure if this matters but again it worked for me.
13 - Knock sensor from donor car (don't forget the bolt that holds it to the engine)
14 - Assorted connectors (you can get by without them but they help)
Chapter 2: Cleaning up the harness
This is kind of a chore because there's so many wires going all over the place but if you take your time and use the "check twice cut once" rule you'll be just fine.
I'm going to steal some pics from holtzboy's thread for this part because I have none of my own of the harness.
...that's pretty much what your harness should look like after you remove it from the donor car...a big mess.
You only need to keep a grand total of 10 wires coming from the EZK connector and their appropriate connectors:
solid blue
thick gray
brown
orange
thick black
thick green
gray/yellow stripe
black/red stripe
yellow
yellow/red stripe
Now after cleaning up your harness it should look something like this
Chapter 3: Putting the harness into the car
What I did was take that little razor or knife I told you to get and cut from the outside edge straight in to the inside hole of the existing grommet in the passenger side firewall that your ECU harness runs through and then carefully remove the grommet and set it aside. Now you have a nice hole to feed your connectors through. I would suggest having a helper for this part so it'll be less frustrating for you. Have he/she stand outside the car and grab the connectors and wires as you push them through the firewall from inside the car into the engine bay. You need to push 7 of the 10 wires through the firewall into the engine bay and they are:
solid blue
thick gray
brown
orange
gray/yellow stripe
thick black
thick green
Keep the black/red stripe, yellow, and yellow/red stripe inside the car.
Chapter 4: What these 7 wires go to
solid blue (positive terminal on coil)
thick gray (powerstage connector)
brown (powerstage connector, EZK, and ground)
orange (connector under intake)
gray/yellow stripe (connector under intake)
thick black (hall sensor on distributor)
thick green (knock sensor on side of block under intake)
Chapter 5: The powerstage
So you have a fat connector that the thick gray wire from the harness goes to. This is the connector for the powerstage. The brown wire coming from the powerstage connector needs to connect to the brown wire coming from the EZK connector(if it is not already connected). Then you want to ground a wire and tee this grounded wire into the aforementioned brown wire that goes from the powerstage connector to the EZK connector. Then you will notice that you have 3 more wires coming from the powerstage connector itself: blue and 2 white/red stripe (one thicker than the other). Connect the blue wire to the positive terminal on your coil. Connect the thick white/red stripe wire to the negative terminal on your coil. Finally connect the thin white/red stripe wire to the white/red stripe wire that goes to your tach.
Now is also a good time to take the solid blue wire coming from the EZK harness (should be same color as the one from the powerstage connector) and connect it to the positive terminal on the coil as well.
So to recap we have blue from main EZK connector and blue from powerstage connector to the positive terminal on the coil. We have thick white/red stripe connected to negative terminal on the coil and thin white/red stripe connected to the tach wire. Finally, a brown wire going from the powerstage connector to the EZK connector with a grounded wire teed into it.
Chapter 6: Swimming under the intake manifold
Get your snorkels on because we're going swimming for a little, 2 wire, black connector located under the intake manifold. It should have an orange wire and a gray wire in it. Once you find it, unplug it and cut off the connector with the MALE spade terminals in them making sure to leave yourself enough wire to solder. Now you will most likely have to extend both the gray/yellow stripe and orange wires coming from your EZK harness and then connect them to their respective gray and orange wire mates from the small connector you just removed. Now plug the connector back in to its female half under the intake manifold.
Here's a pic of said connector:
...to give you an idea of it's location that connector you see in the lower right is the connector to the IAC.
Chapter 7: Hall Sensor
Unplug connector on hall sensor on distributor, take the thick black wire with 3 prong connector coming from your EZK harness, and plug this connector in. Done.
Chapter 8: Knock, knock...who's there
Get your snorkel back on and start digging under the intake manifold again. Unplug and then unscrew the old knock sensor from the block. Now take your new knock sensor from the donor car and it's respective mounting bolt and bolt it into the hole you just opened up in the block. Now connect the fat green wire from the EZK harness with 2 prong connector to the knock sensor you just bolted on. Done.
Chapter 9: ECU/EZK communication
You need to open up the connectors of both the EZK and ECU harnesses. They are held together with 3 little screws. Once inside you need to track down the yellow/red stripe wire that is in the EZK harness. Take a precision screwdriver and remove the pin from the EZK harness connector that this wire goes to. If you must cut the wire to extend it try and keep as much of the wire as you can to make soldering the extension easier. But keep the little pin no matter what. Take this pin with wire (extended if you had to) and connect it to the yellow wire coming from your EZK harness. Now insert this pin into pin slot number 24 of your ECU harness connector which should have nothing in it. Now take the black/red wire coming from the EZK harness and connect it to pin 12 of the ECU harness.
Chapter 10: Wrapping up
After verifying that everything is connected right and the car starts and runs. Take your electrical tape and loom up the wires to make everything tidy and factory looking. Take your grommet that you removed and place it back where you got it. Most likely it will not go/stay in the existing hole so I just siliconed it to the firewall to make an air/water tight seal.
I hope this is helpful to those looking to do this conversion. This will hopefully make it a painless and easy conversion for all to do. If you think I need to add something, skipped something, messed something up, or whatever please, please do not hesitate to let me know so I can change it....because I didn't do this for my pride, I did it so everyone can have a step-by-step guide for this conversion.
Last but definitely not least, thanks to all those who helped me with this and to Nick for his original thread....it's a great resource so please it.
Cheers and enjoy!
This was done on a 1988 240DL with a B230F and LH2.2 I am going to be +Ting this car so I did this with 541 ECU and a 012 EZK computers. If you are going to be staying NA, you will have to figure out the right ECU/ICU combo...sorry I don't know those but there are plenty of very knowledgeable people here who can point you in the right direction. I take no responsibility for what happens to you or your car while attempting this project and I suggest you familiarize yourself with the existing EZK article HERE
Chapter 1: Preparing for the task
Ok, so to preface this make sure you have adequate soldering skills please. In my opinion something as important as this is something that you do NOT want to use crimp connectors and the like on. So go to the store, get a soldering gun and solder and practice before you do this.
Checklist:
1 - Soldering gun
2 - Solder
3 - Electrical tape and/or heat-shrink tubing
4 - Wire (I bought a 30ft roll of 16 gauge for $5ish)
5 - Wire strippers or scissors
6 - Razor blade or sharp knife
7 - EZK harness from the appropriate donor vehicle
8 - 541 ECU (this is for turbo or +T applications)
9 - 012 EZK (this is for turbo or +T applications)
10 - Powerstage
11 - 004 distributor (this is what worked for me)
12 - 007 AMM (not sure if this matters but again it worked for me.
13 - Knock sensor from donor car (don't forget the bolt that holds it to the engine)
14 - Assorted connectors (you can get by without them but they help)
Chapter 2: Cleaning up the harness
This is kind of a chore because there's so many wires going all over the place but if you take your time and use the "check twice cut once" rule you'll be just fine.
I'm going to steal some pics from holtzboy's thread for this part because I have none of my own of the harness.
...that's pretty much what your harness should look like after you remove it from the donor car...a big mess.
You only need to keep a grand total of 10 wires coming from the EZK connector and their appropriate connectors:
solid blue
thick gray
brown
orange
thick black
thick green
gray/yellow stripe
black/red stripe
yellow
yellow/red stripe
Now after cleaning up your harness it should look something like this
Chapter 3: Putting the harness into the car
What I did was take that little razor or knife I told you to get and cut from the outside edge straight in to the inside hole of the existing grommet in the passenger side firewall that your ECU harness runs through and then carefully remove the grommet and set it aside. Now you have a nice hole to feed your connectors through. I would suggest having a helper for this part so it'll be less frustrating for you. Have he/she stand outside the car and grab the connectors and wires as you push them through the firewall from inside the car into the engine bay. You need to push 7 of the 10 wires through the firewall into the engine bay and they are:
solid blue
thick gray
brown
orange
gray/yellow stripe
thick black
thick green
Keep the black/red stripe, yellow, and yellow/red stripe inside the car.
Chapter 4: What these 7 wires go to
solid blue (positive terminal on coil)
thick gray (powerstage connector)
brown (powerstage connector, EZK, and ground)
orange (connector under intake)
gray/yellow stripe (connector under intake)
thick black (hall sensor on distributor)
thick green (knock sensor on side of block under intake)
Chapter 5: The powerstage
So you have a fat connector that the thick gray wire from the harness goes to. This is the connector for the powerstage. The brown wire coming from the powerstage connector needs to connect to the brown wire coming from the EZK connector(if it is not already connected). Then you want to ground a wire and tee this grounded wire into the aforementioned brown wire that goes from the powerstage connector to the EZK connector. Then you will notice that you have 3 more wires coming from the powerstage connector itself: blue and 2 white/red stripe (one thicker than the other). Connect the blue wire to the positive terminal on your coil. Connect the thick white/red stripe wire to the negative terminal on your coil. Finally connect the thin white/red stripe wire to the white/red stripe wire that goes to your tach.
Now is also a good time to take the solid blue wire coming from the EZK harness (should be same color as the one from the powerstage connector) and connect it to the positive terminal on the coil as well.
So to recap we have blue from main EZK connector and blue from powerstage connector to the positive terminal on the coil. We have thick white/red stripe connected to negative terminal on the coil and thin white/red stripe connected to the tach wire. Finally, a brown wire going from the powerstage connector to the EZK connector with a grounded wire teed into it.
Chapter 6: Swimming under the intake manifold
Get your snorkels on because we're going swimming for a little, 2 wire, black connector located under the intake manifold. It should have an orange wire and a gray wire in it. Once you find it, unplug it and cut off the connector with the MALE spade terminals in them making sure to leave yourself enough wire to solder. Now you will most likely have to extend both the gray/yellow stripe and orange wires coming from your EZK harness and then connect them to their respective gray and orange wire mates from the small connector you just removed. Now plug the connector back in to its female half under the intake manifold.
Here's a pic of said connector:
...to give you an idea of it's location that connector you see in the lower right is the connector to the IAC.
Chapter 7: Hall Sensor
Unplug connector on hall sensor on distributor, take the thick black wire with 3 prong connector coming from your EZK harness, and plug this connector in. Done.
Chapter 8: Knock, knock...who's there
Get your snorkel back on and start digging under the intake manifold again. Unplug and then unscrew the old knock sensor from the block. Now take your new knock sensor from the donor car and it's respective mounting bolt and bolt it into the hole you just opened up in the block. Now connect the fat green wire from the EZK harness with 2 prong connector to the knock sensor you just bolted on. Done.
Chapter 9: ECU/EZK communication
You need to open up the connectors of both the EZK and ECU harnesses. They are held together with 3 little screws. Once inside you need to track down the yellow/red stripe wire that is in the EZK harness. Take a precision screwdriver and remove the pin from the EZK harness connector that this wire goes to. If you must cut the wire to extend it try and keep as much of the wire as you can to make soldering the extension easier. But keep the little pin no matter what. Take this pin with wire (extended if you had to) and connect it to the yellow wire coming from your EZK harness. Now insert this pin into pin slot number 24 of your ECU harness connector which should have nothing in it. Now take the black/red wire coming from the EZK harness and connect it to pin 12 of the ECU harness.
Chapter 10: Wrapping up
After verifying that everything is connected right and the car starts and runs. Take your electrical tape and loom up the wires to make everything tidy and factory looking. Take your grommet that you removed and place it back where you got it. Most likely it will not go/stay in the existing hole so I just siliconed it to the firewall to make an air/water tight seal.
I hope this is helpful to those looking to do this conversion. This will hopefully make it a painless and easy conversion for all to do. If you think I need to add something, skipped something, messed something up, or whatever please, please do not hesitate to let me know so I can change it....because I didn't do this for my pride, I did it so everyone can have a step-by-step guide for this conversion.
Last but definitely not least, thanks to all those who helped me with this and to Nick for his original thread....it's a great resource so please it.
Cheers and enjoy!
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