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Old 05-08-2013, 11:17 PM   #26
brickdaddy
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awesome paul, thanks!
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:58 PM   #27
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Here are the pics of the manifold I have. I seem to remember it is from an injected 144. It looks like it had an air pump, hence the 4 blocked off ports. I think the flange thickness is different between injected and carbed cars, so it may require some creative washers. JohnMC, does that sound right?

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Old 05-10-2013, 10:23 PM   #28
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does this manny bolt right up to my b18 head? will it flow enough to keep up w a fairly good amount of head porting, slight shaving w a .030 hg and slightly bigger valves and a stock (tight) b18 bottom end?
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:56 PM   #29
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does this manny bolt right up to my b18 head? will it flow enough to keep up w a fairly good amount of head porting, slight shaving w a .030 hg and slightly bigger valves and a stock (tight) b18 bottom end?
Yes and yes. Volvo Competition Service specd the F/I manifold as an upgrade to B18 engines.



The replacement manifolds all came with plugs for the air injection ports so they would fit any year. Only 75 240's used them AFAIK. The manifolds are definitely different thicknesses. F/I manifolds being thicker than than the carb ones. You can also cut apart a unified cast intake and exhaust manifold from 68-, the 67 one's are too rare to cut (no stupid flappies in the intake). I have a machine shop cut down ½ a piece of flat bar the difference of the thickness of the manifolds, then use a hole saw to cut out washers starting from the flat side. Welding together half washers is a bitch, but I've done that too. The thick material is for the super thin flange on my Stahl header and thick D-Jet F/I intake manifold on my 142E.


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Old 05-10-2013, 11:36 PM   #30
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Thanks hyperfauto, it's been so long since I really played with pushrod stuff that I could only sort of remember the details Brickdaddy, if you keep your HS6 carbs, you will also need your 2 throttle return spring washers. If I can find an early intake in my storage unit I could probably make some stepped washers for you.
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:05 AM   #31
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wow, what a pita those washers look like! i am planning on running my hs6 carbs w dx needles so it'd be real cool if you could hook me up w a set of washers thatd work for me. i can pp you the moolah as early as monday if you could make it all happen. could you possibly send me a pic of the needed throttle return spring washers? thanks for all your help good sir!
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:33 AM   #32
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I am headed out of town next week for work, but I can whip up some washers when I get home. Don't worry about sending money until I get it all done, I don't like getting $ until I have everything boxed up and ready to ship, just in case something falls apart on my end If you look at your carbs, there should be 2 throttle return springs running to washers with little eyelets on them. Do not lose those when you take it apart. They are a royal pain to recreate.
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:13 AM   #33
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i know im prob pushing my luck, but do u happen ti have a collecror to go from 2 to 1?
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:40 AM   #34
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The 1800E downpipe has a 2" outlet and is easier to ship because it's short. You can have a custom exhaust fabbed up from there.
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:52 AM   #35
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thats perfect hyperfauto! would you happen to have a spare you might sell me?
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:53 AM   #36
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what years did those come on?
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:24 AM   #37
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They're available new. They came on 1970-73 18000E & ES. I can have one drop shipped if you want, or you can buy it right from VP (but then I don't make anything). You pay the same either way.

http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...e&artno=682110

And it's hiperfauto, BTW.

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Last edited by hiperfauto; 05-11-2013 at 02:39 AM..
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:40 AM   #38
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sorry my friend. im dyslexic. misspell stuff all the time. i dont see words the way usual people do. but again, sorry. id much rather buy from you. keep it in the family, ya know! just let me know when/where to send the money. what would you want for it shipped?
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:43 AM   #39
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Quote:
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The 1800E downpipe has a 2" outlet and is easier to ship because it's short. You can have a custom exhaust fabbed up from there.
Mike Dudek from IRoll motors also sells this DP and the entire Simons exhaust system. I have one on my 122 and absolutely love it. Has a very "sports car" sound to it, and has definitely woken up the motor with the dual plane exhaust manifold.
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:46 AM   #40
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sorry my friend. im dyslexic. misspell stuff all the time. i dont see words the way usual people do. but again, sorry. id much rather buy from you. keep it in the family, ya know! just let me know when/where to send the money. what would you want for it shipped?

No sweat. I proofread my posts 3 times and still misspell stuff (even with spell-check). I'll call tomorrow and get a quote for shipping, and find out what my price is. PM me your shipping info.

Last edited by hiperfauto; 05-11-2013 at 03:06 AM..
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:04 AM   #41
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Mike Dudek from IRoll motors also sells this DP and the entire Simons exhaust system. I have one on my 122 and absolutely love it. Has a very "sports car" sound to it, and has definitely woken up the motor with the dual plane exhaust manifold.
VP has complete kits for 122 in Abarth style, stainless steel, and standard styles for 122 as well and they're on the right coast (for him anyway) so shipping wont be that bad. The OP was asking for a downpipe so that's what I offered him, but more options are better than less.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:21 AM   #42
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hey hiper, i found one on fleabay for 55 shipped if that helps u make up ur mind on price. again, id rather keep it in the family tho! my zip is 34652 in florida. have a good night. ttyt
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:43 AM   #43
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If your referring to this one, I deal with this warehouse (pic look familiar?) and they show 0 in inventory and none in the alternate warehouses. I don't know if they have this or not. Besides, it's Starla which isn't the best quality. I can find out tomorrow (make that Monday) and let you know.




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Old 05-11-2013, 08:48 AM   #44
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i know im prob pushing my luck, but do u happen ti have a collecror to go from 2 to 1?
Sorry, the 2 to 1 section I had was totally rusted out.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:57 AM   #45
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hiper, thats the one! lemme know monday man. thats cool. witty: thanks for checking. lemme know when ur ready to ship n ill get that pp to you asap!
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:36 PM   #46
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I wouldn't mess with that ebay downpipe. Just go with the dual DP from hiperfauto or save your pennies for a Stahl.

Also, this might be a good time to ask how a K cam will act in your engine. Just for reference.
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:07 PM   #47
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You can also cut apart a unified cast intake and exhaust manifold from 68-, the 67 one's are too rare to cut (no stupid flappies in the intake)

Not true, the last run of carb ex/intake cast iron manifolds for a carb'ed car were thicker flanges just like the FI manifold. My link here shows the '72 manif I got from a TB'er for that 145 project.
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.....and IIRC '72 is the last year for a carb B20 head (in the US) ..... Also, that year, along with replacement manifolds from Volvo don't have the secondary throttles. These manifolds are shorter runners and flow much better than previous carb manifolds.
No need to look at the '-67 single cast ex manif that was thinner and mated with the also thinner B18 alum intake. Have cracked a few of those, No need to make special washers, the '72 manif uses the same temp/expansion washers that the B21FT uses, stronger, better flow, no secondary throttles, no mixing chamber, much lighter than early manif. These are around as that's what Volvo sold as a replacement for all previous twin carb cars at one point.

Last edited by vvpete; 05-11-2013 at 03:35 PM..
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:50 PM   #48
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Not true, the last run of carb ex/intake cast iron manifolds for a carb'ed car were thicker flanges just like the FI manifold. My link here shows the '72 manif I got from a TB'er for that 145 project.
You learn something new every day. Iv'e only seen the unified manifolds without the flaps on 67's. All carb models after that came with the secondary throttle plates to preheat the intake charge (and restrict flow). I remove these every chance I get because the rubber vacuum seal for the shaft gets cooked and causes a leak, plus the engine breathes better. The plugs used to be available from Volvo, but are now discontinued. You can knock them out of another manifold or get them from me. I found a source for them new. The OP is trying to use the aluminum intake which keeps the intake charge cooler, not being attached to the exhaust. As you can see the manifold thickness varies by enough to bend the stud and cause uneven clamping (I measured .15"), so a stepped washer is necessary. This exhaust manifold has been double ceramic coated in black (when it only had 1 coat, some rust started to show thru after a short time). A silver finish is also available. VHT makes a high temp cast iron grey manifold paint that looks nice, but it doesn't last like the ceramic coating.




Yes, the head is plumbed for nitrous.
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Old 05-11-2013, 05:44 PM   #49
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I first ran into the HIF6/late cast manif when I bought an engine from a wrecked '72 144S w/B20B, fully race preped with parts top to botton R-Sport for racing at Thompson Speedway, wrecked by kid son of engine builder, a Volvo Master tech from the 'old country', told me that short of a steel header, that cast manifold flowed the best and will hold up under intense rev's and heat unlike the early crap double throttle one's.

I think the biggest misconception when preping the OHV redblocks for performance is that that alum B18/122 intake manif you have is any good, and would weigh less and that it makes any difference at all. Not only has mixing manifold chamber (can't make it a true twin), but the thermal expansion mis-match between cast iron and alum causes cracks and loonening up studs when you really push a B20. Cracked enough of them that I will never go back, and btw have cut about 10 of those combo manif's with an angle grinder to say forget it. Many were cracked before I started but never seen until it was separated.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:18 PM   #50
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I wouldn't use the aluminum manifold on a F/I head or high performance B20 because of the port size mismatch, but on a B18 or mild carb B20 head they work fine. All the manifolds, cast or aluminum, have the crossover or balance tube AFAIK. The only true divided intake manifolds are the dual side draft ones. If your really pushing a B20 you should be using them anyway. I rarely see the aluminum intakes crack. The exhaust is another story. I've cut apart plenty of 68-72 manifolds to do the 32/36 Weber conversion (the only smog legal replacement available in California) and very few are cracked. And when they are it's usually pretty obvious, unless it's under the cover plate. I torch them apart leaving a generous margin and grind them down until they look like the F/I manifold. I guess our experiences are different.
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