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#1 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
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![]() Hi,
I'm struggling to get my hands on a set of rear coilovers for my Volvo 240 here in the UK so I was looking to make something work with what I already have and can easily get hold of. I was thinking of using the original mounting point for the spring perch on the trailing arms and either cutting it out and welding in a stronger anchor point, Or welding two tabs onto the original plate to form an anchor point to mount a set of universal coilovers such as the AVO units in the link below https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p...nch-springs-pf Then mounting a corresponding anchor point above to the chassis to secure the top of the coilover. My only concern was the lateral load on the coilovers during harsh cornering and sliding. All the bushing are being changed for PU bushes to reduce movement of the axle in relation to the body as much as possible. Can anyone see any flaws with this setup or is it feasible? Thanks Jack. |
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#2 | |
Autogestion
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Ft.Mill, SC
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![]() http://www.classicswede.com/ and he's a member here too (classicswede), so you're supporting the community. Plus I hear that he's a great guy to work with for purchasing parts, etc.
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Member: TBCCS "Those who do not move, do not notice their chains." -Rosa Luxemburg Quote:
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#3 |
8v are still cool, right?
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Vancouver, WA
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![]() Talk to Josh, he recently made an order with Gaz for some 240 front end coilovers. They look nice and have adjustable damping, and they're from Europe, so it's probably easier for you to get them than us in the US.
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1982 242 Turbo. |
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#4 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
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![]() Funny you should say that classic swede supplied my front gaz coilovers. I did order the rear adjustable dampers and spring perches from him as well but realised they were not the route I wanted to take for the rear.
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#5 |
the real Towery
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: VA, USA
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![]() What is the goal of this exercise?
One thing to think about is the length and travel needed from a shock that is mounted behind the axle. It will move further than the wheel, so it needs to be long, relatively speaking. The stock shock placement ahead of the axle doesn't need to be so long since it moves less than the wheel. I think you could cut into the frame rail, reinforce it, and make a double shear mounting point quite easily with some plate and a mig welded. Similar at the bottom, cut out the original lower flat section where the spring would be seated and build a double shear mount for the lower shock eyelet. There will be some lateral movement of the axle, so the bushings should allow for that. Rigid poly might not be ideal? This I'm not sure of. Spherical bearings would be nice to have here. |
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#6 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
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![]() Cheers towery, The plan was to make a stronger more universal setup. I know of one company who make coil overs that locate in the standard shock location but use a strengthened stud to anchor the top of the shock. Not ideal as its still single shear.
What your describing is similar to what I had in mind in terms of reinforcing the frame rail and using double shear anchor points top and bottom. Its not to late to change out for spherical bearings however I wanted to use these only were necessary, I will be using the car on the road, so I wanted to keep some bushes were it would be possible. EDIT: ![]() This is almost exactly what I'm thinking, but using the method described above to anchor the bottom eyelet. Last edited by Valve; 09-02-2015 at 07:18 PM.. |
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#7 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sleezattle, WA, USA
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![]() Quote:
And them move the shock to the back of the axle anywhere from say 1 O'clock down to say 5 o'clock. Want to see more? http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/r...5,83276,page=4
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John Vanlandingham/JVAB Imports Sleezattle WA, USA --> CALL (206) 431-9696<---- www.rallyrace.net/jvab www.rallyanarchy.com Vive le Prole-le-ralliat "When a man tells you that he got rich through hard work, ask him: 'Whose?'" — Don Marquis |
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#8 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
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![]() Cheers John some great info on the thread. I like the idea of the two turrets in the rear, it looks stronger and opens up the option for running a true rose jointed 4 link setup at a later date. Ill have a talk with a couple of the MOT testers today at work and see if they think I could still get the car through an MOT after modifying the axle and body to support the suspension. I cant see it being a problem.
Last edited by Valve; 09-03-2015 at 05:28 AM.. |
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#9 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: UK
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![]() In this setup the panhard rod takes pretty much all the lateral load on the axle. The dampers will require some articulation in the bushes to cope with the slight lateral movement as the panhard rod moves in an arc, but they won't be holding the axle in place.
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#10 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
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![]() Sounds like this should work then. Might be worth either running softer bushes in the shocks or as said above spherical bearings would probably be a good shout. Cheers for the info everyone.
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#11 |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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#12 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Florida Cracker
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![]() Quote:
__________________
1981 242 LM7/T56 PTE 7275 1984 242 no LS, no turbo (sold)1995 855 T5 NA Cams, MT, ARD Blue, White Injectors, full OBX, ARD 19t conversion, 285whp. Koni coilovers QA1 7"x550# & Hyperco 4"x25# helpers up front, Koni yellows & 10"x310# rears, rear sway bar, Kaplhenke Delrin bushings, CJ Yother baffled oil pan, slotted 302mm front, Porterfield pads, GT500 hood vent "Therefore do no worry about tomorrow, for tomorrow will worry about its own things." Matthew 6:34 |
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#13 |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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#14 |
Våga Vägra 8V
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lower Saxony
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![]() Ben now offers also vegan Products.. you Hipster Manufacture.... :D
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#15 |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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#16 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Florida Cracker
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