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Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S

The clock worked for a while this evening when I was driving around. I think the connection I reflowed isn't that strong. The clock fuse is a problem with all VDO clocks so I read an article on Pelican Parts and will retry.

Even with the clock barely working I was able to buy a new bulb for it. Now I think everything is properly illuminated in the dash.



Tomorrow my Yoshifab Adjustable Torque Rods should be here along with some replacement IPD swaybar endlinks. The torque rods will allow me to pull the rear end further forward. They will center the wheels in the arches so I can take out even more of the rake. Moving the rear end forward should make the rear springs happier since they are a tad out of alignment with the mounting points.

 
Looking good. I'm interested to see if you get much more NVH with the torque rods. I've been going back and forth on the Yoshifab ones or shortening stockers w/ poly bushings.
 
Great job on the clock. I didn't pull oNE in the JY because I was told they never work.

Here is the article I found. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_vdo_clock_repair/mult_vdo_clock_repair.htm I think Volvo VDO clocks must be "Type 1"

Looking good. I'm interested to see if you get much more NVH with the torque rods. I've been going back and forth on the Yoshifab ones or shortening stockers w/ poly bushings.

I'll have first hand driving experience in the next few days and obviously let you know what I find out. The whole driveline and the springs will be a lot happier I'm sure. I've heard the same things about NVH but Josh had them in stock and I'm sick of having the rear end of the car up in the air since I couldn't comfortably clear the 8 inch wide rims in the back with the rear end pushed all the way to the back of the wheel arch.
 
Got a lot done tonight!

Yoshifab Adjustable Torque Arms
IPD Front Sway Endlinks

First I jumped on the bits from Yoshifab. The shipping was incredibly fast and the parts are really nicely made. I jacked the car up and popped the original arms off. The new ones popped right in and then I was able to adjust them to bring the rear towards the front of the car. So smooth and easy:





The tire had about 1/2 inch of clearance to the rear of the opening until I put these on. I may have overshot a little bit and tomorrow I will look at pushing it back a little. The springs are in alignment again so I think they will be a lot happier. Instead of taking it for a drive I decided to put on the new endlinks since I was on a roll.




When I put the 28mm front sway on the car IPD was sold out of endlink kits. I ordered some bushings that I thought were similar enough. As you can tell from the photo that was pretty stupid...

Slowly but surely!
 
Alright got the torque arms set where I want them. With how far forward the rear end was set last night, the driveshaft was forcing the pumpkin out of alignment.

Today I centered the wheels in the arches and took it out for a spin.



As you can see I have lowered it a little more and can probably go a little lower in the back since there is more clearance in the middle of the wheel opening. I'll do that this weekend since I will then have to redo the adjustments to the panhard and torque rods.
 
Thanks for spotting this on Craigslist Keith!

Picked it from from a guy who's uncle collected jerry cans:



A little surface rust on the bottom so I will fix that and also take the opportunity to steel wool and paint the inside of the buttcheeks
 
you lucky dog! keep an eye out for another one.


Thanks for spotting this on Craigslist Keith!

Picked it from from a guy who's uncle collected jerry cans:

A little surface rust on the bottom so I will fix that and also take the opportunity to steel wool and paint the inside of the buttcheeks
 
Thanks for spotting this on Craigslist Keith!

Picked it from from a guy who's uncle collected jerry cans:



A little surface rust on the bottom so I will fix that and also take the opportunity to steel wool and paint the inside of the buttcheeks

Lucky!
 
I think it looks perfect! Great work!

looks symmetrical from the tire to the arch, I like it!

After driving it all around today I think this is where the car will stay height wise.

you lucky dog! keep an eye out for another one.

I heard of one up in Portland

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/5487124585.html


I love that yellow-makes me miss the Banana Boat.

I love the yellow too. Wouldn't ever consider repainting in a different color. Banana Boat is the 142 that belongs to AndrewNance right?

Nice work on this build. Beautiful car!

Thanks!

Took it to cars and coffee to meet up with a new Volvo people down from San Luis Obispo. There were 2 Amazon wagons, a p1800, a diesel 245 and my friend's T5R. Here is a photo from brunch afterwards:

 
Thanks for spotting this on Craigslist Keith!

Picked it from from a guy who's uncle collected jerry cans:



A little surface rust on the bottom so I will fix that and also take the opportunity to steel wool and paint the inside of the buttcheeks

I tried to buy that can last week, but it had just been sold!!
Great score, outstanding price.
 
So there is a lot of surface rust under all that dirt. That thing that looks like a hole above the drain is just debris. Nothing will poke through and the drain hole is in good shape too. I started in with some steel wool and dremel to get out all the rust.



Any recommendations about paint (POR15?) and where I can get new buttcheck plugs so moisture can't get back in there. The passenger side is a lot better but I'll do that at the same time.
 
POR is hard to use, and difficult to bond to once it sets.

I'd put some paper towels in there and completely burn the residual rust out of the pores overnight with Ospho, then rinse & dry and then use regular primer and paint.

I might have some of those plugs / grommets in my schwag collection, or hit the JY and bag some.
 
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