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Cam selection query

cranky_yankee

New member
Joined
Mar 18, 2018
Hi everyone,
I'm rebuilding my B230FT (automatic) and am looking for some more power in general.
I do not want to lose any low end but wouldn't mind a boost in the mid- to upper end.
I've read comments across various forums and seem to be getting mixed messages aka A, B, T, VX & IPD cams.
It will be a daily driver, not a racer, just want some more oomph.
I plan on a Cometic head gasket and have the opportunity to switch cams if it is a smart move.
Anyone have experience in what I am describing?
What I seem to be finding is that the IPD cam trades upper end performance at the expense of the low end but you can move the power band down somewhat by playing with the cam advance (true for most of the aforementioned cams).
Just looking for some real-world experience before I make a decision.
Thanks in advance...
 
I think you'll find that the vast majority of people will say that the cam will make minimal difference in an auto-equipped car. As far as what cam, that is up for debate. I have a friend that put in the IPD cam and really liked it, but a lot of people on here say that the ipd, or any of the factory cams, are really a minimal difference and that you need to grab something from the motherland to gain a really noticeable difference.

Oh, there have also been a TON of threads on this, so search this section and you should come up with quite a few answers.
 
why are you swapping hg? is your current one blown or leaking?
 
If you want to keep it mild use a Volvo cam that was designed for an automatic. The Volvo A or B cam will give a bit more power in the mid and upper rpms without much of a torque loss. I also think the IPD cam is good for that as well. With even more mid and upper rpm power. I would advance the cam at least four but would suggest 6 degrees. That will bring some smiles and still have a mild daily driver.
 
you cannot gain top end without losing low end you just shift the power band higher

No Your doing it WRONG!!!!!!! This is the Intra-webz and you can do miraculous things becuz some guy said he just did like whatever and he said he liked it..What MOAR proof do you need that some bunch of guys insisting they LIKE their own choices???

.. Have you never heard of LOGIC????

Using logic we would immediately see there's no point in taking what is written here very seriously becuz autotragic... second tip---logically, is skip this because instant 'solution" is "camshaft" and its all downhill from there...

Nobody suggested --or bothered to ask about----a bigger exhaust, nobody suggested--or asked even ----if the turbo was once of those utterly :doh: hopeless POS little Misterbitchy POSs 13 whatever....Nope everybody starts yacking about camshafts..

A long time ago I would been in agreement with you but that was before I came to understand that this is how the transmission of knowledge and experience works : by assertion of personal preferences----the bottom line being something you cannot argue about---somebody saying they "Liked" this ______________ or that, or not..
 
Hi everyone,
I'm rebuilding my B230FT (automatic) and am looking for some more power in general.
I do not want to lose any low end but wouldn't mind a boost in the mid- to upper end.

Turn up the boost with a MBC for $25. 10psi is fun, 15psi is more so.
Shave the head and/or install a thinner head gasket ($50-150). Run at stock boost or increase the boost until you get some knock and dial it back. Gain a bit of bottom end, and a lot more on top.
If you want better shifts, do the "accumulator mod" for the auto. Quicker shifts and less slipping.

My old b230ft was fun with .030 off the head, stock HG and 15psi. I'd go for a thinner Cometic head gasket if I were to do it again.
 
No Your doing it WRONG!!!!!!! This is the Intra-webz and you can do miraculous things becuz some guy said he just did like whatever and he said he liked it..What MOAR proof do you need that some bunch of guys insisting they LIKE their own choices???

.. Have you never heard of LOGIC????

Using logic we would immediately see there's no point in taking what is written here very seriously becuz autotragic... second tip---logically, is skip this because instant 'solution" is "camshaft" and its all downhill from there...

Nobody suggested --or bothered to ask about----a bigger exhaust, nobody suggested--or asked even ----if the turbo was once of those utterly :doh: hopeless POS little Misterbitchy POSs 13 whatever....Nope everybody starts yacking about camshafts..

A long time ago I would been in agreement with you but that was before I came to understand that this is how the transmission of knowledge and experience works : by assertion of personal preferences----the bottom line being something you cannot argue about---somebody saying they "Liked" this ______________ or that, or not..

John, all this typing and no mention of gear ratios?. I am dissapointed in you.
 
John, all this typing and no mention of gear ratios?. I am dissapointed in you.

Duh Oh Pea said autotragic..after that what is there to say?

btopdreams-how-an-automatic-transmission-works-power-loss-crushing-disappointment-3729293.png


nuff said, eh muchachito?
 
I've been researching and have come to the conclusion I am aiming at a Stage 2 engine mod to produce something in the range of the mid-200's in HP.

Low-Restriction Cat-Back Exhaust (should I be looking at a 3" downpipe at this point?)
Boost Enhancement if necessary (possibly a SAAB APC unless there is a better alternative now)
Calibrated Boost Gauge (already installed)
Performance Camshaft (IPD Turbo)
Adjustable Cam Timing Wheel (IPD)
Double Valve Springs (suggestions?)
Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge (already installed)
Elevated Boost not over 15 psi

So far:
'94 Block (squirters) has been Bored (.005) & Decked (.010 I think) and head is shaved .020.
New pistons/rings (0.50 mm) & bearings, polished crank.
13mm rods.
MMounts are good, less than 1 yr old.

Stock Mitsu 13G for now but thinking of an upgrade conversion in the future to maybe a 19T and a manual trans (currently an AW71). But these are future considerations.

Helpful comments?
 
Measure for the tight squish and get a head gasket that fits that measurement spec. Sorry I don't remember it off the top of my head. I would suggest a complete three inch exhaust with two mufflers. it won't be loud but will have all the performance you need. The yoshifab beehive valve springs would bee a good choice. Keep it simple with a manual boost controller use that $$ for a knock sense device. Hope that helps you. Have fun with it.

BTW the IPD cam is based on the unitek phase one which was based on the enem V15 which is the street performance torque cam from Sweden. A wide powerband cam. So if you want a good cam for street performance engines it is a known good choice. Will make the power you are looking for. It is not a high performance cam for a high performance engine. That is where cams like a enem V16, K15, and many other cams are for.
 
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Thanks for the input dl...

Yes on the tight squish, I have communicated with stealthfti over the years and find his counsel rewarding. Tight squish for my application should be between .032 & .038", I'm aiming for .035 if I can get it which should be fine for a DD. I'm not planning to rev past 6K and that squish should be good for over 7K.

Is the factory knock sensor insufficient?

3" exh with 2 cans seems to be the consensus. May not happen immediately but in the near future. Got all my engine goodies now but will be going at it slowly over the next few weeks.
 
Looks like a good buildup. Yes, the factory knock sensor is fine. Thanks for sharing the squish specs. Been a long time since I read the thread. I met Thomas a long time ago at one of the Rockleigh nj meets. Had a really good time way back then.
 
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