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Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S

JPS said:
m46 will clear te trans tunnel i tink, m47 fitted in my 72 142, but i swapped to m90 and that big lump did not fit. 16v without turbo i would run the engine slanted. because you don't need al lot of room for the exhaust. and the inlet/carbs need the room.
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good info! Did you mount the B20 straight up or angled with the M47? I'd need to run the B234 upright since I would use Yoshifab adaptors since I don't have a welder or the ability to fab up mounts.
 
Coupid said:
good info! Did you mount the B20 straight up or angled with the M47? I'd need to run the B234 upright since I would use Yoshifab adaptors since I don't have a welder or the ability to fab up mounts.
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i am not running a b20, i have a b230fk . slanted.

16v NA would be a blast in a 142. sound will be so much better than my turbo. :rofl:
 
Here is what my experiences have been. M46 fits in my 144 with a b230 slanted. Its really tight but works. If it ever comes out I might pound a couple of small bulges here and there for a little more clearance but until that time its fine.
M47 fits better with a B230 slanted that's in the chumpcar. Both of these cars have the larger, later trans tunnel.
Marc
 
Coupid said:
good info! Did you mount the B20 straight up or angled with the M47? I'd need to run the B234 upright since I would use Yoshifab adaptors since I don't have a welder or the ability to fab up mounts.
Click to expand...

Just a heads up: if you don't have a welder or someone who can fabricate little things, the swap will probably be pretty difficult and won't be as clean as you might like. Several people have noted that the Yoshi adapters aren't the best solution, and getting the motor to sit straight is really difficult with them.
 
Tfrasca said:
Just a heads up: if you don't have a welder or someone who can fabricate little things, the swap will probably be pretty difficult and won't be as clean as you might like. Several people have noted that the Yoshi adapters aren't the best solution, and getting the motor to sit straight is really difficult with them.
Click to expand...

not only the problem of engine mounts, you need to mod your exhaust, your brake booster needs some relocation, and there will be more small things where you need welding.
 
Thank you all, I will keep on reading so I have a full understanding on the pitfalls before I take the car apart. I hadn't heard that about the Yoshi Adapters, is it because it is hard to get them bolted to the block, mount and body and have them turn out straight?

I've always wanted to learn how to weld but don't have the time now. Maybe I'll just start amassing parts and when I'm done with school have the project ready to go ahead.


itb-volvo said:
Here is what my experiences have been. M46 fits in my 144 with a b230 slanted. Its really tight but works. If it ever comes out I might pound a couple of small bulges here and there for a little more clearance but until that time its fine.
M47 fits better with a B230 slanted that's in the chumpcar. Both of these cars have the larger, later trans tunnel.
Marc
Click to expand...

Tfrasca said:
Just a heads up: if you don't have a welder or someone who can fabricate little things, the swap will probably be pretty difficult and won't be as clean as you might like. Several people have noted that the Yoshi adapters aren't the best solution, and getting the motor to sit straight is really difficult with them.
Click to expand...

JPS said:
not only the problem of engine mounts, you need to mod your exhaust, your brake booster needs some relocation, and there will be more small things where you need welding.
Click to expand...
 
Coupid said:
Thank you all, I will keep on reading so I have a full understanding on the pitfalls before I take the car apart. I hadn't heard that about the Yoshi Adapters, is it because it is hard to get them bolted to the block, mount and body and have them turn out straight?

I've always wanted to learn how to weld but don't have the time now. Maybe I'll just start amassing parts and when I'm done with school have the project ready to go ahead.
Click to expand...

The B20 motor mount bosses are machined vertically on both sides of the block. The aluminum 140 mount brackets bolt to those vertically machined sections of the block. A B23/B230 has similar mounting bosses, but they are angled substantially, yet the Yoshi adapters call for the use of the same aluminum 140 mount brackets (which are designed to be vertical).

Offset rubber mounts help, but the angle of them is never right, so it cocks the motor a bit. Many people have run them, but they aren't perfect. I bolted them in and decided to just make my own.
 
Great thread,love what you've done to your car.My second 140 series car was a 142E,Identical in every way to yours except for FI.It even came with the GT cluster (which went on to serve in two more 140s).About the only thing I did to it was install the Volvo performance exhaust system from the R sport catalog.I had alot of fun with that car,& Michigan winters took it's toll.So after about three years of daily driving I moved on to my first 145.Keep up the good work,and get that rust fixed.
 
Tfrasca said:
The B20 motor mount bosses are machined vertically on both sides of the block. The aluminum 140 mount brackets bolt to those vertically machined sections of the block. A B23/B230 has similar mounting bosses, but they are angled substantially, yet the Yoshi adapters call for the use of the same aluminum 140 mount brackets (which are designed to be vertical).

Offset rubber mounts help, but the angle of them is never right, so it cocks the motor a bit. Many people have run them, but they aren't perfect. I bolted them in and decided to just make my own.
Click to expand...

That makes sense, thanks for the explanation. I know what you mean after working with both the 140 and 240 style mounts.


dmax99 said:
Great thread,love what you've done to your car.My second 140 series car was a 142E,Identical in every way to yours except for FI.It even came with the GT cluster (which went on to serve in two more 140s).About the only thing I did to it was install the Volvo performance exhaust system from the R sport catalog.I had alot of fun with that car,& Michigan winters took it's toll.So after about three years of daily driving I moved on to my first 145.Keep up the good work,and get that rust fixed.
Click to expand...

That's next on the list! I don't have any experience with body work so I have to bite the bullet and pay someone to do it for me.

Drove the car all over town yesterday and to Oxnard early this morning to meet a friend before cars and coffee. It did awesome but I got a rock chip in the center of the windshield. Already ordered a filler kit for next weekend.
 
I don't know what your final plans are, but one of the charms of these old 140's is the B20. It would probably cost less for a big-bore kit with a cam and some DCOE's than swapping to a later OHC engine. And make sure the M40 is in tip-top shape. If you aren't racing it, it should be able to hold up.
If it were a 240, I'd say go for it, but there just aren't many of these 140's left.
That is just my opinion, and you know what those are like!
Steve
 
sksmith said:
I don't know what your final plans are, but one of the charms of these old 140's is the B20. It would probably cost less for a big-bore kit with a cam and some DCOE's than swapping to a later OHC engine. And make sure the M40 is in tip-top shape. If you aren't racing it, it should be able to hold up.
If it were a 240, I'd say go for it, but there just aren't many of these 140's left.
That is just my opinion, and you know what those are like!
Steve
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You are probably right Steve. If nothing else that plan is a lot more in keeping with my skills as a bolter oner than a fabricator. At the very least I'd like to get an M41 in there
 
So I keep blowing manifold gaskets:



I just ordered a Remflex and as I was pulling the old one off tonight I noticed that there is an empty hole in the IPD header. It is under the carb so I hadn't noticed it before. Am I missing an exhaust stud?



The remflex is supposed to be collapsible but if there isn't any clamping pressure on that part it probably won't seal properly.

any ideas?
 
Fuel injected heads have dowels to locate the intake and exhaust manifolds. You have a header for a f/i head so it has the hole for the dowel. You're not missing a stud.

How even are the intake and exhaust manifolds where they share a stud? If they're not the same thickness, you won't get even clamping forces on the manifold when you tighten the nut. It'll try to bend the stud instead.

Which gasket were you using and was it on the right way? Elring gaskets have large metal area around the exhaust ports on one side that's supposed to face the head.

Make sure the alignment rings in the intake ports aren't preventing the manifold from tightening down all the way. The Weber manifolds aren't machined where the ring fits, just rough cast.
 
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hiperfauto said:
Fuel injected heads have dowels to locate the intake and exhaust manifolds. You have a header for a f/i head so it has the hole for the dowel. You're not missing a stud.

How even are the intake and exhaust manifolds where they share a stud? If they're not the same thickness, you won't get even clamping forces on the manifold when you tighten the nut. It'll try to bend the stud instead.

Which gasket were you using and was it on the right way? Elring gaskets have large metal area around the exhaust ports on one side that's supposed to face the head.
Click to expand...

Okay that makes sense. The header has little welded on tabs that make it roughly the same height as the weber intake manifold.

The old gasket was an Elring and I had the metal facing the head.
 
Ever since I put the IPD headers on the car the manifold gaskets kept blowing. I used elring and mounted them with the metal part in the correct orientation. The last time I replaced it with a Remflex but snapped off a stud. The gasket was awesome but even the remaining studs were really shot. I through the exhaust back together because my wife and I wanted to drive Buttercup to the Ojai Valley Inn for my 30th birthday a few weeks ago.

The car did awesome but I wanted to get the exhaust sorted out for good.

Ian at HiPerf was able to get me some off the Volvo studs and thick washers and ship them the next day. (I ordered some SS brake lines as well) Thanks again man!!

Here are a few photos from the work:

This wasn't the original broken one but it was an absolute PITA



I went to Sears and got this set of smasher on stud removers and finally got the thing out. The rest of them came out with the old two nut trick and some PB blaster.


Coming together



I have it put back together aside from the vacuum line from the distributor to the intake that was getting a little crusty so I will replace it tomorrow.
 
When I was reassembling the intake and headers I put the throttle linkage on so it was rotating backwards and wouldn't snap back when I released the gas pedal. In the process of figured that out I lubricated every pivot point including where the shaft goes into the firewall. When I went to drive to Cars and Coffee this weekend the shaft slipped out on the freeway. I had enough momentum to exit the freeway and put the shaft back in the plastic grommet in the firewall. Luckily there was a hardware store and I was able to secure it with hose clamps:



I've spent the last day trying to figure out what the thing that is supposed to hold the rod in place is called. FINALLY after a ton of googling I figured out it is a shaft collar.

Does anyone know if it is 5/16 or 3/8?

I just ordered a travel tool kit and am really tempted to drive the Volvo when I go to Car Week in Monterey next month.
 
The shaft collars arrived and I replaced the janky hose clamp setup. The hose clamps worked fine when I drove to cars and coffee and around town this morning but the collars are way more stable



My latest piece of craftsman tool storage showed up so I put the garage back together again as well!

 
Went a little too fast over a speedbump at cars and coffee this weekend. Here is the end result:



Easy fix and I happened to have a spare in inventory!

I really need to raise the front of the car but I don't want to dig into the front springs for the 5th time.

Since I was down there I decided to pull the mid part of the exhaust off, recut the end near the headers so it was flush under the adaptor and then exhaust sealant it all back together. I have been fighting a small exhaust leak where the header connects to the exhaust and I think I finally got it since this time everything was loose and I tightened from front to back.
 
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