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Tools required to pull an M47 transmission

C

Chawklit245

New member
Joined
Oct 28, 2021
Location
PNW
Hello! I was fortunate enough to find a 91 244 in my local junkyard with all the parts required for a manual swap for my 90 245. I've already pulled the pedal assembly and am planning to go back for the transmission, shifter assembly, front section of the driveshaft, clutch cable, and transmission crossmember. I have 2 main questions.

What tools are required to pull all of these pieces?

What else should I grab for the swap while I am there?

This will be my first transmission swap on any vehicle and I am trying to do as much research and be as prepared as possible. All advice related or not is appreciated. Thankyou ahead of time!
 
A bunch of extensions in order to get to the top bolts on the bellhousing. A swivel adapter or 2. Other than that just a metric socket set should do ya. I believe you have to take the shifter assembly out to get the trans out (at least I had to take mine off to get the trans in) so you may want some needle nose pliers for the pin holding the shifter. I would just grab the whole drive shaft instead of only the front section. Technically you only need the front section but since that whole shaft is there and already balanced and there's no guess work, I'd just swap over the whole thing. The rear end is also geared differently on an automatic. A lot of people keep the auto rear end (which is what I'm running right now) but just something to think about in case you want to go that route. Other than that it sounds like you're probably in the clear. In case it isn't obvious, make sure you get the flywheel.
 
The flywheel, and the pilot bearing as well in the end of the crank. Or, since you'd probably be installing a new pilot bearing, the clip that holds it in, not a commonly sold part.

And yeah, grab the whole driveshaft. I got the front section when I did it, and it was really difficult to separate the two at the slip yoke, for whatever reason. And very difficult to fit the two different halves back together.
 
JohnMc said:
The flywheel, and the pilot bearing as well in the end of the crank. Or, since you'd probably be installing a new pilot bearing, the clip that holds it in, not a commonly sold part.

And yeah, grab the whole driveshaft. I got the front section when I did it, and it was really difficult to separate the two at the slip yoke, for whatever reason. And very difficult to fit the two different halves back together.
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Great catch on the Pilot bearing clip. A lot of people either forget to put it in or don't even know it's supposed to go in. Definitely make sure to grab that.
 
Tools to either adjust out the clutch cable or a BIG pair of Channellocks to collapse the clutch fork to separate the cable. Silicone grease to make slipping the cable through the rubber block easier.

Magnetic tool tray to catch all the small hardware you take off. The pin holding the shifter shaft in is 4mm allen, the clutch cover bolts are 6mm. You need AT LEAST 2ft of extension to get the top 2 bellhousing bolts, I prefer a swivel (or wobble, whatever you might call it) rather than a universal.
 
Make sure you have 18mm and 16mm sockets. The later cars used flange head bolts with a reduced wrench size and most cheap socket sets don't come with those sizes.
 
bring 4mm hex key, and the shortest 4mm hex key socket for the little set screw for the shifter, tight access there. put the pin back in and secure it with the screw. DO NOT LOSE that lil fukker

non ratcheting box wrenches hel undo the driveshaft bolts, as there is little clearance

Prepare for the exhaust to be in the way, and have tools to deal with it in whatever destructive level you deem morally accetable

get the exhaust hanger bracket for downpipe, your own might be missing.

Consider the cluster Tachometer is still present and get the plate wher the clutch cable goes through firewall (inconstant presence depending on year)

scribe the driveshaft and flanges

and if you dont know, the adjustable seat bottom on the drivers seat easily swaps onto the passenger side as a easy upgrade, just don't miss the bolts, collars and plastic obloung hole guides are needed too
 
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Lots of good advice in this thread, the top bolts are reached from either LH or RH side of the bell housing but like others are saying 2ft + so your towards the shifter area underneath the car !



There is also a snap ring that holds the shifter in the car which is best to pull off before dropping the trans,
either get a set of snap ring pliers or some screw drivers and pry it out if you have too, but itll take 2 flat heads.

You will let the trans sag and you can yank her out !

My best Junkyard time for a m47 pull just transmission and pedals

48 mins ! But I would recommend taking your time :):) It was going to rain and for sure not my 1st !

Cheers and good job grabbing what you need for your swap from the yard !

A true accomplishment in the total task of the whole job ! Good Luck!
 
Ipd sells pilot bearing clip. Once you remove the crossmember and you should do this. Every noob leaves it on when they pull transmission. You'll have plenty of access for the set screw on shifter. Remove the reverse lockout plate and pry the circlip out and with skinny flathead screwdriver. Yank the shifter up and it will come up. Most late model cars do have 18 mm and 14 hex head bolt on bell housing. If you don't have impact to remove flywheel bolts, you'll need a pry bar to keep the flywheel from moving as you loosen the bolts with a breaker bar. On the clutch fork,there is a rubber piece in front of the big metal damper. I just the slice rubber and pull it off. This gives you room to remove damper off the clutch cable. Do this first before you unbolt transmission.
 
The jumper wire for the PnP switch - usually on the left side of the transmission tunnel. It's a small white connector with a blue wire that loops back to itself.
 
The factory suggested removal is to back the trans off a couple of inches. Then you rotate the trans till the bulge for the starter is below the floor. Then the trans will come right out. Do the opposite for installation. Be very very careful of the engine speed sensor bracket at the top of the bell housing. This I would take the junkyard one just to have it. Being careful of the bracket is why you back the trans off a couple inches or so to clear the speed sensor bracket before you rotate it for removal.
 
Generic pilot bearing pullers won?t usually fit in, you can take a long bolt with a nut, stick it in the hole and stick a flathead to hold the nut in place then crank on the bolt to slowly push the bearing out using the nut. That?s if you don?t just buy the one from iPD for a single use
 
Radtap said:
Generic pilot bearing pullers won?t usually fit in, you can take a long bolt with a nut, stick it in the hole and stick a flathead to hold the nut in place then crank on the bolt to slowly push the bearing out using the nut. That?s if you don?t just buy the one from iPD for a single use
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the harbor freight one I have fits, but leave the junkyard bearing in the yard, buy a new one
 
If I recall correctly the pilot bearing is a 6202 RS which is also used in the bosch alternators. A common bearing so yeah don't use a salvage yard pilot bearing.

PS But do be sure to get the snap ring retainer for the pilot bearing.
 
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Bring bread and grease for pulling the pilot bearing. I have done this before and it really works. You will also need a hammer and a socket extension or a large diameter punch or something similar.

https://www.google.com/search?clien...with+bread#kpvalbx=_SoD9Yp6PJv_YkPIPn6OjoAk22

although this video does not recommend grease, i would think it would help with freeing up the bearing. just fill it mostly with grease and then use bread as a seal.

Also after the fact you will probably want to have the old flywheel resurfaced. I had this done and it was reasonably cheap and a great peace of mind thing plus it looks really pretty.
 
cmsuter said:
Great catch on the Pilot bearing clip. A lot of people either forget to put it in or don't even know it's supposed to go in. Definitely make sure to grab that.
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I just jam them in with a bit of blue loctite. Strong enough that it won't come out on its own, not strong enough that you can't get it out ever. Not like that green loctite.
 
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