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Microsquirt timing settings

bigjoe04

New member
Joined
Jan 21, 2022
I finally got my 740 running on Microsquirt it starts easily and smoothly idles but when driving it it feels extremely down on power it barely goes up steep hills. I suspect my timing is very far off and the wasted spark interferes with my timing light so I have had a hard time verifying it.
I am running ls truck coils
For crank position I am using the stock lh2.4 60-2 with a 2200 ohm resistor no
Issues with that as far as I can tell
In tuner studio I have my ignition settings set to wasted cop and tooth angle one at 258 degrees
I was wondering what ignition settings other people are running on there setups
 
If you're using the stock 60-2 flywheel and VR sensor, the Tooth Angle #1 should be ~ 84-86?.
So somethings up, or you have the FW installed incorrectly. Orrrrr you're 180deg out on the crank.

Post up a picture of your timing table.

Is the engine cutting out?
 
Since it runs and you're using a "tooth angle one at 258 degrees", I'd guess that you have non-standard wiring to the COPs. Normally, SparkA/IgnOut1 should fire the spark on cyl #1 (or wasted sparks on cyl #1 and cyl #4). Since you're off by ~180degrees, I'd think you have SparkB/IgnOut2 connected for cyl #1. This is OK, but makes it confusing to compare to setups with standard wiring.

You really need to verify timing with a timing light. If you have an old-school light, it should work OK when clamped onto the #1 plug wire. Check the timing light manual for wasted spark settings if you have a fancy dial-back light.
 
D87Qssgw
If you're using the stock 60-2 flywheel and VR sensor, the Tooth Angle #1 should be ~ 84-86?.
So somethings up, or you have the FW installed incorrectly. Orrrrr you're 180deg out on the crank.

Post up a picture of your timing table.

Is the engine cutting out?

I changed the tooth angle to 84 degrees it still runs but worse and it back fires at idle with 20 degrees of advance the engine isn't cutting out it's just not running right
Im running a conservative map I found on here somewhere

D87Qssgw
 
Let's start with a couple basics:
1) When did the engine last run properly? What have you done since then? Have you remounted the flywheel/flexplate?

2) In MS, if you go to the CANbus/Testmodes - OutputTest Inj/Spk menu, you can test the spark without the engine running. Pull the #1 plug, or use a spare, and rest it against the block. From the MS menu, turn on the fuel pump (needed if you've wired the COPs from the fuel pump relay), and then test CoilA. If the plug doesn't spark, try testing CoilB,C,D, until you figure out which one is wired to CoilA/SparkA/IgnOut1. Repeat for the other 3 plugs.

3) When you say you're running wasted COP, I'm assuming that you're using 4 wires off the MicroSquirt, correct? [If you're running true logic level coils, you can use just 2 wires and standard wasted spark.]
 
Since it runs and you're using a "tooth angle one at 258 degrees", I'd guess that you have non-standard wiring to the COPs. Normally, SparkA/IgnOut1 should fire the spark on cyl #1 (or wasted sparks on cyl #1 and cyl #4). Since you're off by ~180degrees, I'd think you have SparkB/IgnOut2 connected for cyl #1. This is OK, but makes it confusing to compare to setups with standard wiring.

You really need to verify timing with a timing light. If you have an old-school light, it should work OK when clamped onto the #1 plug wire. Check the timing light manual for wasted spark settings if you have a fancy dial-back light.

I may have wired it wrong up I wired cyl #1-3 to ign 1 and #2-4 to ign 2.
Are 1 and 4 meant to paired if so I think the wires to coils 3 and 4 are long enough that they can just be swapped I wired the injectors the same way are they wrong to??

I have an old school timing light I just couldn't find the mark it was so far out It works fine.

With tooth angle at 258 and the light on cyl #1 the mark is about 120 degrees retarded so it was on the Bottom and couldn't see it I put a mark on the face of the crank pulley and found it
With tooth angle at 84 it reads a pretty close to what it should but it runs way worse all tests done with 15 deg fixed advance
 
^^^ Yes.

For wasted spark, the wasted one should occur at TDC of the exhaust stroke (when nothing's in the cyl). Firing order of 1-3-4-2 means 1-4 and 3-2 are the pairs that are at TDC at the same time.

For the injectors, pairing 1-4 and 3-2 will give a little better behavior when running semi-sequential 2-squirts per cycle mode. It won't matter for batch fire mode. To run full sequential spark and fuel, you need a cam sensor. I've seen pictures where someone has added a gear tooth sensor either through the mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (with a re-pointed lobe on the aux shaft), or I've seen a sensor added to the valve cover over one of the lobes. Most folks don't bother.
 
Thanks for the answers I'm go to rewire the coils and injectors hopefully that fixes my issue I am very surprised that this ran at all But I guess that's a Volvo for you
 
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