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Redesigning my 240 braking system for simplicity

propav8r

propav8r

F*ck Edgar
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Location
Franklin, NC
Current setup: Skinny booster, Ford SN95 master cylinder. Factory 240 junction block with superflous ports plugged. Cadillac ATS Brembo front calipers (same as R calipers basically) on the front, Ford Explorer calipers on the rear.

Two lines run down from the master cylinder to the junction block. One line from block to LF caliper, one line to RF caliper. There are two lines that run rearward from the block to the factory proportioning valves. LR prop valve has a line to LR caliper, RR prop valve has a line to RR caliper.

Problem: My car has brakes that are heavily rear-biased. Like I can't hold the car still during a burnout rear biased. Like jump on the brakes and the rear of the car gets super squirrely rear biased.

Plan: I was going to just run one line off the rearward port on the master to a T fitting, and one side of the tee to the LF caliper and the other side to the RF caliper, and another line off the forward port of the master, through a manual adjustable proportioning valve, and to the rear of the car, and then just another T fitting for the rear calipers.

My question is is this okay? Do I need any sort of metering valve for the line to the front brakes?

My plan is to end up with something essentially like this minus the residual pressure valves.

5443_ArticleSection_XL_9c67d197-55b2-475b-b9fe-c944b553206f.jpg
 
Have you looked into running an adjustable prop valve instead of the octopus to get possibly a better front back bias, using the original octopus might play into it
 
You describe what I did with the rally car except that brake line to front went to a tee to dump the junction block with it?s unneeded pressure differential switch. Knob between seats to vary rear bias.
 
Sorry brain fart, why not just run both lines into the prop valve? There's the fancy wilwood valve
 
Radtap said:
Sorry brain fart, why not just run both lines into the prop valve? There's the fancy wilwood valve
Click to expand...

I assume you're talking about this?

wilwood-combination-proportioning-valve-3.jpg


The FI port is just a tee to the two FO ports.

The RI port runs through the adjuster and out the RO port.

I already have one of these:

260-10922-lg.jpg


So the only benefit of the first one is that it's prettier than the second and a tee.
 
Wouldn't a metering valve be unnecessary because no drum brakes? I would think any difference in application between F/R could be solved with that prop valve.
 
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