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Old 02-18-2007, 02:32 PM   #1
tjts1
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Default Where do I drill for the clutch cable?

Pulling the brake pedal was way easier than I expected. I guess the trick is to remove the instrument cluster for the top 2 bolts. Now the question is, should i drill the hole for the clutch cable from the inside out before I install the clutch pedal? There seems to be more clearance for the drill from the inside. Everything I've read so far says to used a dremel at an angle from the outside and slowly enlarge the hole. I'm not sure exactly where whe hole should be and I'm afraid I might punch a hole through the brake booster. Thanks for the help.

Manual and automatic side by side. If ur doing the swap you need the whole assembly.
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Old 02-18-2007, 05:17 PM   #2
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I started mine from the engine bay, there is a slight depression there. Then I opened it up from the inside with a step bit. This is on the 240.
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Old 02-18-2007, 07:10 PM   #3
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I'm taking another break. My back is starting to complain from the hump under the driver's seat. Can't be in there more than 30 minutes at a time. But i'm making progress. Hopefully these pics will help someone out in future.
When the automatic brake pedal is out, drill the clutch cable hole from the inside. Its a lot easier this way.

Then enlarge it from the outside.

You can make installation easier by disconecting the big plastic air duct going to the driver's side.

One of the bolts that attach the pedals to the brake booster is best reached through the instrument cluster. The top 3 bolts to the firewall can also be reached through here.

Wiggle joint is your friend. If you can see it, you can turn it.

Got to drill 2 more holes in the firewall by the clutch.

Back to work.
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Old 02-18-2007, 07:46 PM   #4
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I hope you took the driver's seat out...
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Old 02-18-2007, 07:52 PM   #5
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I just cut the manual pedal box in half. The auto half is already drilled where it needs to be to accept the two bolts from the clutch pedal. So I just trimmed off the part that needed to be added, and left the manual pedal box in place. The added in piece gets lots of bolts to hold it in place. As secure as it would be if in one piece. So all I had to do was swap the brake pedal instead of taking the dash half apart. Still a bunch of finicky crap to do in an uncomfortable position, but a lot easier than swapping the whole box.
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Old 02-18-2007, 08:07 PM   #6
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I read some of your posts about cutting it in half and I also thought about doing that but then decided against it. I thought the installation was pretty easy with the whole manual pedal box. Remove the instrument cluster, take out the lower cover, unplug a couple of wires and ur there. I can see how cutting it in half might be easier but once I figured out how to rotate the pedal box into position its was quite easy.
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I hope you took the driver's seat out...
Wouldn't have it any other way. Got to love the leg room.
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Old 02-18-2007, 09:16 PM   #7
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This is just like watching those surgery shows on TLC or Discovery, only it's my car and not some stranger with a hernia. I'm getting this nauseating feeling looking at the innards, unsure of the outcome... but I put my faith in the doctor and cross my fingers that everything will turn out OK. Which it BETTER...aaaahhhh I miss my Volvo!!
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Old 02-18-2007, 09:58 PM   #8
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Yeah, I drilled mine dead center of that little 'hump'. No issues, but its sooooo much easier doing it from the inside of the car like you did. Thats the important tip to take away from this experience.
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:10 PM   #9
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When I did the m46 swap i took pictures of the clutch cable hole in other 240s from the jyard and compared. Had to drill the hole out pretty big in order to get the stopper thing to slide into the firewall.
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Old 02-19-2007, 02:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
I'm taking another break. My back is starting to complain from the hump under the driver's seat.
I spent so much time on my back lying over that when I rewired the 242 I couldn't stand up straight for a week.
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:31 PM   #11
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Yo car is weyouwd

On to the vacuum leaks.
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Old 02-19-2007, 07:46 PM   #12
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Question isn't the hole already there on the 240's due to the fact that M47's were available? With my 87 745T there was a pre-punched disc covering the clutch cable hole. All I had to do was take a hammer and a punch to it and it popped out. No drilling needed.
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:03 PM   #13
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Nope no hole from the factory. If there was a hole I would have used it. I think earlier model year automatic 240s might have it. Not the 89 though.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:57 AM   #14
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Nope no hole from the factory. If there was a hole I would have used it. I think earlier model year automatic 240s might have it. Not the 89 though.
My 83 did NOT have it.
That piece of the firewall is a removable insert that can be swapped but you have to pull the wiring harness back through which would be a total pain in the butt so I just drilled a hole and was done with it.
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Old 02-20-2007, 02:26 AM   #15
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On to the vacuum leaks.
I like the 3 pedals + Auto Shifter



My 91' 240 Has an M47, but it also has a removable plate held on with two bolts that I drilled through for my amp wire, its almost beside where the clutch cable is. You might be thinking of that. Great job on the swap.
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Old 03-14-2021, 04:41 PM   #16
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Anyone have photos of the three hole he speaks of above? Also, size for each hole?
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Old 03-15-2021, 12:49 PM   #17
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Anyone Done this?
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Old 03-16-2021, 10:57 AM   #18
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Interesting. The hole was already there when I converted my 242.
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Old 03-16-2021, 11:57 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Anyone have photos of the three hole he speaks of above? Also, size for each hole?
the removable plate is where the hydraulic master cylinder would bolt to. Look on a 240 Turbo and it's where the boost gauge line goes through
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Old 03-17-2021, 09:17 AM   #20
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I know the general location is, but don’t know how big the hole needs to be. Or if I need more then one hole
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