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#1 |
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2014
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![]() ~'90 740T B230FT w/ factory oil cooler~
I ordered this derale kit from (links below) Amazon, it appears it'll work? My question is what sort of (3/4-16) male to male adapter do I need to go from the block to my adapter plate? I figured there would be a suitable brass fitting at home depot but I'm curious what y'all's solutions have been. Adapter in my brain: brass fitting Amazon link kit I ordered:Derale Amazon link Someone also recommend this somewhere I read: EATON AEROQUIP 2041-8-8S Idk why but the -AN or JIC type seems like it wouldn't work well but wtf do I know? Lastly I figured i'd just plumb the oil cooler inline with everything & I wouldn't have too many issues? Feed to feed return to return & maybe relocate it just south of the coolant res on the passenger fender? |
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#2 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: San Clemente
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![]() Why do you need an adapter? Just take the oil filter off and screw the plate on. Then run your lines and the remote oil filter adapter.
The block is the same threads as your adapter kit. |
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#3 |
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2014
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![]() Well when I remove the banjo bolt from the oil filter "arm?" theres just a threaded hole in the block. For me to thread the adapter on I would have to put something in place for it to grab onto. I aside from drilling out the banjo bolt I can't think of a good way to make it work atm.
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#4 |
The Librarian
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
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![]() You need an oil filter nipple from any B230 without an oil cooler. The brass fitting from Amazon is pipe thread.
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#5 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Portland IN
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![]() Ford used the same oil filter nipple.
__________________
Trying to understand stupid people is like trying to pick up a turd by the clean end. |
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#6 |
Making Volvo Parts Fit
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockland County, NY
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![]() Why would you need to touch the banjo bolt? The remote plate would go where your oil filter is now, after the oil cooler t/stat housing. If you put the sandwich between the arm & the block, then how do you propose to deal with the oil cooler? The filter needs to be post-oil cooler not pre...
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#7 |
Amateur hour!
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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![]() It sounds like he’s trying to ditch the oil filter arm altogether. I went with this sandwich plate on the factory oil filter arm and it works great and packages in there well.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=28263 Last edited by AndrewNance; 06-23-2021 at 12:18 PM.. |
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#8 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Redmond, OR
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![]() The Eaton fitting should work fine. It's the same thread pitch at 3/4-16, you may need to shorten it slightly depending on the filter adapter.
Also, the Derale adapter is hot garbage. It allows for a small amount of oil to bypass the entire remote assembly. There is a steel nut that's held in with a snap ring. There's a lot of clearance/slop in this part, and that's where the leakage occurs.
__________________
Cult Person. Pissing in your Kool-Aid. Head work: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=349975 Temp Sender Adapters: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=348169 |
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#9 |
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2014
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![]() Hey ya'll thanks for all the replies & advice!
I've made some progress but failed in the process... Off a 92' b230ft I removed the "oil filter stud" from the oil filter arm. It was too long so I chopped it & welded it up, unfortunately it was a little cockeyed & won't sit flush. After googling a bunch I found this part:AL3Z-6890-A which I've ordered through my local Ford dealership for sub $10. They couldn't tell me the length but I'm pretty certain it'll work for my application. @Culberro Yeahhh I realized it was trash before I ordered it. I think she'll potentially last long enough for this build we'll see! |
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