YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS) - Page 61

vwbusman66 · 10-28-2020, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnMc

Speeeeeeaking of eejits, I drove it the other day. Somewhat cooler weather, and it was acting all glub glub rich, too much fuel! So of course I set about driving it around some, doing a bit of autotune, doing a bit of smoothing, got it all running nice and clean again. Then... I happened to notice I'd left the IAT sensor unplugged after removing the cold side piping to refit that BOV. So basically it thought it was -100 bazillion degrees air temp.

*SIGH*

That did remind me though, the IAT has always unwaveringly said '70 degrees' - and I'm pretty sure it's not a wiring issue - because if I unplug the sensor it goes full cold, and if I touch the wires together (briefly, hopefully that's not bad, ahem) it goes waaaay hot. So it seems like the fixed resistance is coming from the sensor itself. I bought another one, we'll see if that works.

What are the odds it needs a pull-up resistor? Is the sensor meant for 5v or 12v? What does MS want to see.
Dumb questions and I'm sure you've already considered that, but worth asking.

JohnMc · 10-28-2020, 09:15 PM

Dunno. I was lay as hell when doing that part of the LS swap, I just got a DIY Goldbox and a prebuilt harness. Not the cheapest thing in the world, but it was ridiculously easy to slap together. Just had to add a few wires to the harness for things they didn't include (gauge sensors, starter, alternator). Started on the first try. w00t.

I'd like to think it's configured properly for the IAT sensor, but maybe it's just some small detail that escaped their attention?

vwbusman66 · 10-28-2020, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnMc

Dunno. I was lay as hell when doing that part of the LS swap, I just got a DIY Goldbox and a prebuilt harness. Not the cheapest thing in the world, but it was ridiculously easy to slap together. Just had to add a few wires to the harness for things they didn't include (gauge sensors, starter, alternator). Started on the first try. w00t.

I'd like to think it's configured properly for the IAT sensor, but maybe it's just some small detail that escaped their attention?

This sounds like a Kenny question.

linuxman51 · 10-28-2020, 10:27 PM

if it's 70 all the time it's in failsafe mode, i.e. the sensor is bad or the wiring has an issue. ms2 stuff has that baked in, I thought ms3 didn't though. I'd have to go look at one of the cars to see, perhaps post hurricane tomorrow if I think about it.

JohnMc · 04-03-2021, 08:42 PM

*lamest update ever*

All I did was start it up and back it out of the garage. Lol, I'm late getting it out of winter storage this year. I've been busy doing random other things.

Oh, I did get another toy:

(not my garage, my garage is a ****ing mess)

It's sort of a (somewhat) 'turbobricked' Miata. An '04 Mazdaspeed (factory turbo version) with a bored block, forged Wisecos, H-beams, bigger turbo, 3" exhaust all the way back, running on MS3 (A PnP DIYAutotune box). Running conservative low boost (10 psi), dynoed at 220 at the rear wheels. Sways, coilovers, Wilwoods up front. Loads of fun. It came with a hardtop and no soft top, I got a soft top frame from the junkyard and a new canvas top and wrestled that on today.

Harlard · 04-04-2021, 01:49 AM

THANKS FOR STOPPING BY AND SAYING HI, JOHN.

JohnMc · 04-07-2021, 03:32 PM

I've been making a little stack of parts to bolt onto it.
- Wilwood brake kit for the front (waiting on the last bits)
- boxed front lower control arms
- pondering something else other than the stock perches/IPD springs/Bil HD's... but probably won't right now

The fuel map shows it's currently at the limits of what the DW300 can feed on pump gas (ski hill forming in top right corner, not a good thing for sure)
- new gas tank
- dual pump setup
- hose/fittings/filter/etc for AN10 fuel supply (using the old AN6 supply line for the new larger return)
- so I can start running E85 and raising the boost

JohnMc · 12-23-2021, 07:10 PM

After not doing any of the stuff on my to do list for... a long time, I finally felt the urge to start tinkering with it some. So I put the dual fuel pump setup into the tank.

New cheap RockAuto tank.

And a hole saw:

And I got lazy and didn't take pics until it was done.

Two 300lph pumps. One will run all the time, the other will run when boost gets above 4-ish psi.

AN8 lines from each pump joining together to AN10 to a single filter and up to the engine, where it splits into AN8 lines going to each fuel rail. Then a single AN8 return line.

I'll just pull the fuel pump off the stock sender unit and leave it there for vapor recovery and gauge sending.

The current DW300 pump was running out of flow at higher RPM and at current 6 - 7 psi of boost, the upper right side of the fuel map has a big mountain built on it trying to make up for the sagging flow. This will certainly take care of that. And give me plenty of overhead to switch to E85 and raise the boost some. Because... Hell I don't know, 550 hp is still a bit of a handful, and it's not like it will really get any faster in the lower gears.

AndrewNance · 01-01-2022, 08:28 AM

Hey that looks familiar. Aeromotive told me not to let it it sit for too long with fuel in the tank or use any chemicals like Seafoam or that baffle will break down into a huge mess.

Also if you ever figure out a check valve that holds pressure in the system like the OEM stuff I’d be interested to know. Mine still has to be primed at least twice before it will start without stumbling and sometimes cutting off. I tried a couple from Vibrant and both let the pressure bleed off almost immediately. The ball in one of them even rattled louder than the exhaust so I finally gave up and just removed it.

JohnMc · 01-01-2022, 12:06 PM

Yeah, I pondered that baffle a while. The fitment in the skinny top portion of the tank. Interference with the stock swirl pan. Stories of the foam dissolving into mush. And I decided to just not use it.

It remains to be seen how much of problem that will be at low fuel levels. If it really is a big issue, I'll probably pull the tank and rethink things.

RvolvoR · 01-02-2022, 03:53 AM

Those fittings won't fit like that in the car. There is a structural support which will foul them. Its my one gripe about that aeromotive unit. I wish the fittings came out of the top.

RvolvoR · 01-02-2022, 03:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewNance

Hey that looks familiar. Aeromotive told me not to let it it sit for too long with fuel in the tank or use any chemicals like Seafoam or that baffle will break down into a huge mess.

Also if you ever figure out a check valve that holds pressure in the system like the OEM stuff I’d be interested to know. Mine still has to be primed at least twice before it will start without stumbling and sometimes cutting off. I tried a couple from Vibrant and both let the pressure bleed off almost immediately. The ball in one of them even rattled louder than the exhaust so I finally gave up and just removed it.

http://www.radiumauto.com/Universal-...its-P1872.aspx

cosbySweater · 01-02-2022, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RvolvoR

Those fittings won't fit like that in the car. There is a structural support which will foul them. Its my one gripe about that aeromotive unit. I wish the fittings came out of the top.

I was going to say this exact thing but I thought maybe there was some cutting involved already...

JohnMc · 01-02-2022, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RvolvoR

Those fittings won't fit like that in the car. There is a structural support which will foul them. Its my one gripe about that aeromotive unit. I wish the fittings came out of the top.

I verified the top clearance, but certainly haven't finalized the clocking or fittings attached to it.

10-28-2020, 09:15 PM	#1502
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	Dunno. I was lay as hell when doing that part of the LS swap, I just got a DIY Goldbox and a prebuilt harness. Not the cheapest thing in the world, but it was ridiculously easy to slap together. Just had to add a few wires to the harness for things they didn't include (gauge sensors, starter, alternator). Started on the first try. w00t. I'd like to think it's configured properly for the IAT sensor, but maybe it's just some small detail that escaped their attention? __________________ '63 PV Rat Rod '93 245 16VT Classic #1141

10-28-2020, 10:27 PM	#1504
linuxman51 BRANDSCHUTZVORSCHRIFTEN! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: mont, AL	if it's 70 all the time it's in failsafe mode, i.e. the sensor is bad or the wiring has an issue. ms2 stuff has that baked in, I thought ms3 didn't though. I'd have to go look at one of the cars to see, perhaps post hurricane tomorrow if I think about it. __________________ "They bum rushed them in their own crib, they drank all their beer, they partied with their ladies and they left with the trophy" Now with in-house Dyno tuning! Megasquirt Tuning!

01-01-2022, 08:28 AM	#1509
AndrewNance Amateur hour! Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Winston-Salem, NC	Hey that looks familiar. Aeromotive told me not to let it it sit for too long with fuel in the tank or use any chemicals like Seafoam or that baffle will break down into a huge mess. Also if you ever figure out a check valve that holds pressure in the system like the OEM stuff I’d be interested to know. Mine still has to be primed at least twice before it will start without stumbling and sometimes cutting off. I tried a couple from Vibrant and both let the pressure bleed off almost immediately. The ball in one of them even rattled louder than the exhaust so I finally gave up and just removed it. __________________ '67 122 - b230, t5, 8.8 Feedback

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04-03-2021, 08:42 PM	#1505
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	lamest update ever All I did was start it up and back it out of the garage. Lol, I'm late getting it out of winter storage this year. I've been busy doing random other things. Oh, I did get another toy: (not my garage, my garage is a ****ing mess) It's sort of a (somewhat) 'turbobricked' Miata. An '04 Mazdaspeed (factory turbo version) with a bored block, forged Wisecos, H-beams, bigger turbo, 3" exhaust all the way back, running on MS3 (A PnP DIYAutotune box). Running conservative low boost (10 psi), dynoed at 220 at the rear wheels. Sways, coilovers, Wilwoods up front. Loads of fun. It came with a hardtop and no soft top, I got a soft top frame from the junkyard and a new canvas top and wrestled that on today.

04-07-2021, 03:32 PM	#1507
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	I've been making a little stack of parts to bolt onto it. - Wilwood brake kit for the front (waiting on the last bits) - boxed front lower control arms - pondering something else other than the stock perches/IPD springs/Bil HD's... but probably won't right now The fuel map shows it's currently at the limits of what the DW300 can feed on pump gas (ski hill forming in top right corner, not a good thing for sure) - new gas tank - dual pump setup - hose/fittings/filter/etc for AN10 fuel supply (using the old AN6 supply line for the new larger return) - so I can start running E85 and raising the boost

12-23-2021, 07:10 PM	#1508
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	After not doing any of the stuff on my to do list for... a long time, I finally felt the urge to start tinkering with it some. So I put the dual fuel pump setup into the tank. New cheap RockAuto tank. And a hole saw: And I got lazy and didn't take pics until it was done. Two 300lph pumps. One will run all the time, the other will run when boost gets above 4-ish psi. AN8 lines from each pump joining together to AN10 to a single filter and up to the engine, where it splits into AN8 lines going to each fuel rail. Then a single AN8 return line. I'll just pull the fuel pump off the stock sender unit and leave it there for vapor recovery and gauge sending. The current DW300 pump was running out of flow at higher RPM and at current 6 - 7 psi of boost, the upper right side of the fuel map has a big mountain built on it trying to make up for the sagging flow. This will certainly take care of that. And give me plenty of overhead to switch to E85 and raise the boost some. Because... Hell I don't know, 550 hp is still a bit of a handful, and it's not like it will really get any faster in the lower gears.

01-01-2022, 12:06 PM	#1510
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	Yeah, I pondered that baffle a while. The fitment in the skinny top portion of the tank. Interference with the stock swirl pan. Stories of the foam dissolving into mush. And I decided to just not use it. It remains to be seen how much of problem that will be at low fuel levels. If it really is a big issue, I'll probably pull the tank and rethink things.

01-02-2022, 03:53 AM	#1511
RvolvoR Board Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PDX	Those fittings won't fit like that in the car. There is a structural support which will foul them. Its my one gripe about that aeromotive unit. I wish the fittings came out of the top.