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Old 03-19-2022, 07:34 PM   #1
Radtap
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Default 1980 240 broken ignition cylinder piece

Broke my ignition cylinder today, the plastic peg that the key turns broke off in the ignition plug on the back and the key basically free spins. Can’t find an answer online whether or not I can replace that peg, just threads telling me the ignition lock is the problem. Sorry I’m frustrated
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Old 03-19-2022, 07:40 PM   #2
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There is no plastic peg that the ignition lock turns. The peg on the back indexes the harness connector to the ignition switch itself. You need to replace the ignition switch.
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Old 03-19-2022, 07:49 PM   #3
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I pulled the ignition switch off and looking at the back of the cylinder when I press the key in it pushes out a plastic peg that indexes with the ignition switch, the tip of that peg broke off and no longer reaches the ignition switch. I had to pull the ignition switch out and use a flat head to turn the plug so I could move the car, the key needs to be in the lock so the steering doesn’t lock
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Old 03-20-2022, 02:53 AM   #4
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The 'plastic peg' should just be for the door chime IIRC?
But maybe it also allows the ignition switch to turn? NO IIRC tho? Just the chime w/the key inserted.

I have lock tumblers used & uhh...various parts tho IIRC the lock housing is shorter/more recessed in relation to the steering wheel for the '75-'80 dash compared to '81+?

I've never seen that go bad, but in the hot/dry Tuscon climate, wouldn't doubt it & trying to pour enough beer on my brain to forget repairing the tons & tons of beat to hell '73-'80 cars starting out...

IRC there's an alloy 'lock tail-piece' that turns the ignition electrical switch itself & there's the plastic pin on the electrical switch itself to close the circuit to the door chime relay, that's all I remember? I don't remember any plastic on the ignition lock cylinder or column lock, just alloy & steel, springs & 2 PITA retaining pins.

Depending how .17¢/hr you wanna get, you can remove the lock cylinder from the housing or disable the column lock or not as needed...
it's not much fun to access all that on 240s/tedious PITA even w/nice/appropriate tools & locksmith experience...
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Old 03-20-2022, 07:18 AM   #5
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Some images here: http://cleanflametrap.com/ign_sw.html

I don't recall any plastic peg either. Pot metal?
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Old 03-20-2022, 12:02 PM   #6
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It might be pot metal, I just thought it was plastic cause it has that white/yellowish color to it. The piece seems to be a part of the lock cylinder so I can’t push it out or replace it, maybe if I got the cylinder out and disassembled it. Going to have to get a new cylinder in there. Hopefully Volvo kept the lock codes and I can have a new lock and key made this week
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Old 03-20-2022, 12:54 PM   #7
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http://cleanflametrap.com/ign_sw/ign_sw_1002.jpg

That pin snapped off inside of my ignition switch and from the other images appears to be a separate assembly from the lock cylinder. Is that assembly still available?
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Old 03-20-2022, 02:50 PM   #8
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http://cleanflametrap.com/ign_sw/ign_sw_1002.jpg

That pin snapped off inside of my ignition switch and from the other images appears to be a separate assembly from the lock cylinder. Is that assembly still available?
I've never seen that blade break off. I do have a complete lock assembly with the key. I think there are two different lengths of the lock assembly. 1980 and older. 81 and newer.
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Old 03-20-2022, 03:12 PM   #9
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I believe I’ve located two replacement candidates. I’m going to try to remove the steering column lock out of the car so I can measure and send pics to a couple sellers. I can replace the lock itself no problem. Now I’m struggling with getting those headless bolts out, cant fix a dremel up in there and I have a couple screw extractors? Is that the way to do it? I’ll upload pictures of the broken blade once it’s out of the car and I can photograph the back side
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Old 03-20-2022, 03:38 PM   #10
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IIRC, up until the mid 80's phillips head screws are used to hold a steel plate. IOW, it's a 2 piece assembly that comes right out. The lock assembly slides off of the dash structure. You have to remove the dash structure attachment screws and pull it back far enough for the nylon sliders to come out of the lower dash beam.

I'll take a quick walk out to my shop to take a look at the early column I have sitting out there and refresh my memory how they are assembled. The later lock assemblies are a one piece casting that presses on to the column tube.
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Old 03-20-2022, 05:01 PM   #11
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Picture isnt too good but I promise you that is plastic. That is with the key in too

I had to unscrew that "knee bar" under the dash and remove column cover. Once the two main bolts are drilled and removed you just slide that bar slightly forward and it exposes the final 2 screws, once the 4 are out insert key to unlock it and slide it out of the dash, easier to remove with cluster out.

Assembly part # 1205753

Last edited by Radtap; 03-20-2022 at 05:45 PM..
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Old 03-20-2022, 05:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanflametrap View Post
Some images here: http://cleanflametrap.com/ign_sw.html

I don't recall any plastic peg either. Pot metal?
You know, now that I think about it…
Inside it I *believe* there’s a plastique (nylon?) rectangular? Female recepticle piece that shears off from the lock cylinder (on some years 200 series? My memory is hazy) if the lock cylinder is forced in-between the lock cylinder & tail piece if that makes sense?

That thing might have given up the ghost in the dry heat down there sitting outdoors or been forced to retract the (trapped/bound up)column lock by a ham fisted owner that didn’t gently relieve the pressure on the column lock by rocking the steering wheel before attempting to turn the key/retract the column lock one too many times (I have seen that & had to dig deep to repair that & match the keys back up to the VIN on a 240 Volvo more than once w/the quality but quintessentially Teutonic locks used on 1973+ Volvos instead of the ‘British auto locks’ used on most Volvos -‘72).

Interesting what you did there with the grinder/Dremel digging the 2 retaining pins out…
…I gently drill an angled hole on either side of the pin, lube & warm the housing & pop them out w/button hook pick tools & silver solder the holes adjacent the pressed in/knurled retaining pin(s) back up in the alloy/file it so you can’t really tell anyones been in there…?

Maybe if you could warm the housing (temp controlled heat gun w/appropriate shaped attachment or similar?), lube & chill the pins with s little needle of liquid nitrogen & had a strong enough electromagnet you could extract the knurled pressed in retaining pin(s) more elegantly & replace them w/o anyone ever knowing you’d been in there/without grinding or drilling the soft alloy housing (diamond bit & dental hand piece might drill the super hard pin, but I’ve never attempted that/would t want to?), idk?

They’re really not intended to be removed as a regular practice from the looks of them & Volvo basically only offers (offered?) the whole assembly keyed to your vin w/o separate parts back in the day…for however much that cost/however long it took order in as their uh ‘turn key solution’

That said, I used to have a replacement ‘face cap kit’ for the Volvo (aftermarket) to re-key the lock back to the original VIN, no idea how I got it or why?.
Short vin or Canadian made cars can be a pain to look up key codes for…

(Sometime around) ‘86+ Model-year models are pressed on the column in my experience. Earlier have the two #3 tapered Phillips (I’m forgetting the exact long-form description for that type of screw/plead senility/senioritis here ) & stamped steel cad-plated clasp dealie.
Lock tumbler itself the same 1978-1993 iirc?

The valet key is just thicker rod the key way in 1 dimension iirc?
Doesn’t go in the glove box lock or rear storage or trunk lock, but in OE German made steel the valet keys actually last longer.
I never lock the glove compartment & mostly had DL wagons w/o optional storage compartment lock.
-‘85 cars had the small truck / ‘secondary’ key or the trunk/boot & glove box or GL+ trim level wagon storage compartment of course…

I use a sharp punch/cold chisel to tap the edges of headless/break-away screws or slot them & whack them loose w/the old forged manual impact & giant enclosed flat-blade attachment ( &/or sharp pair of side cutters thereafter?) to fish those out surgically. That said, they make proper extractor tools for those that are more elegant & do the job more expediently/efficiently w/less risk of damaging something if you do the job professionally on cars day in and day out on theft recoveries or proper repairs/restorations & take pride in your work…
…or deleting the column lock for race car safety…

I can’t tell you how many Saabs I got to sort out (no Column lock, upward facing key hole recipe for disaster) w/froozen latte/coffee in the lock in the ski lodge parking lot in 0F temps stuck in P or Reverse (if manual trans) & parking brake stuck in the ‘on’ position w/armored cable to the front brake calipers…I’ve been trying to forget all these years….
…but being the Swedish, French, & Italian shade tree car guy in a smaller town contemptuous of common kraut cans for the most part of eurotrash cars…

Good luck to ya!
Could be worse? @ least Volvo still has dealerships in the USA?
& it could be a SCAAB stuck in gear with the parking brake on the front wheels super tight & all frozen up/no fun to try to tow in a crowded ski parking lot in arctic winter temps?
We used to joke w/122/Amazon Volvos sans column lock w/armored cable power wire to the ignition coil ‘ya, BYOC (bring your own coil) off the ford (or other brand of car w/compatible Bosch coil?) ya stole last week!’

Looks like ya need a compatible year (‘78-‘80?) complete assy w/key or compatible lock tail piece (iirc. More years of those fit/interchange?) & .17c/hr to remove the retaining line carefully & dig the lock cylinder out of it & replace the tail piece. GLWT!

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Old 03-20-2022, 05:58 PM   #13
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Short vin or Canadian made cars can be a pain to look up key codes for…
That's my biggest worry about this, its a tiny detail but I was hoping to keep original style keys in the car and I'm assuming my final option will be a new lock assembly from Volvo however mine's a 1980 with the short 15 digit vin. Last time I contacted Volvo about having new trunk and door keys made since they were missing (before the PO found them) they did everything in their power to avoid helping me once I mentioned it was an older 240
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Old 03-20-2022, 06:19 PM   #14
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^IIRC there’s an ID plate for the steering gear, brakes etc w/various #s etc located on the hood slam panel affixed w/rivets on the ‘80 cars (on the passenger strut tower on ‘81+ models IIRC) & you can request the build sheet for the car, especially if it’s a USA market model 1975+.

Idk if it’s worth the effort or likely to be quick &/or painless depending on the dealer & they have little (business or monetary much less legal obligation w/teeth on a car that old & Volvo-cars having been bought by ‘king of NLA’ Fraud Mo. Co. & now spun off to Geely ) incentive to help you unless they can sell you big $$$ & markup margins parts, service &/or take your used car in on trade & sell you a new car…

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Old 03-20-2022, 06:33 PM   #15
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Both of the ID plates under the hood have completely faded or peeled so I can’t get any info other than the VIN stamped into the plate. I had that build sheet I found under the carpet with some info on it but don’t remember if it had the key codes. I found a 262c column lock + keys + door locks on eBay with the same part number but the section that holds the lock cylinder appears to be longer than the one I have while having a shorter bolt for locking the column
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Old 03-20-2022, 06:35 PM   #16
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I don't think you'll have much luck with the dealer. The part number for an ignition lock keyed to your VIN (1315215) doesn't appear to be available and neither does the lock with 2 keys (1229356) but Scandcar says they have it.

https://classic-volvo.com/lock-steer...for-volvo.html
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Old 03-20-2022, 07:47 PM   #17
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I might give that a shot, the end with the lock is 4.5 inches long from the face of the lock to the end of the switch mounting hole on the back without a switch. Do you know if they made it longer in 81 with the new dash or if it stayed the same length? That’s the only issue I could possibly see
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Old 03-20-2022, 08:11 PM   #18
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I *probably* have the part used if you can take some measurements…

Or the lock tail piece depending how deep you want to dig into what you have…

262c were sold in ‘81 w/later dash, so if the donor was an ‘81 I doubt it will be direct drop in for your -‘80 dash 242…
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Old 03-20-2022, 08:19 PM   #19
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I’ll take measurements and pictures right now. Did not know 262c didn’t have the early dash. I know very little about the 262c honestly
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Old 03-20-2022, 08:27 PM   #20
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From the face of the lock to the lip on the back for the switch is roughly 4 inches


From the flat edge to the outer mounting hole edge is roughly 7 1/4 inches

I only really need that tailpiece as I'd like to keep the original lock + key, either way I'm gonna have to dig into it to switch the lock or tail piece.
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Old 03-20-2022, 08:38 PM   #21
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I might give that a shot, the end with the lock is 4.5 inches long from the face of the lock to the end of the switch mounting hole on the back without a switch. Do you know if they made it longer in 81 with the new dash or if it stayed the same length? That’s the only issue I could possibly see
It is clear to me now, there is a different lock waiting for me to experience what you have in your '80 on my '79. My collection of lock parts dates from '83, so I guess the change probably happened with the '81 MY. No plastic in my collection, and length is about 5.32".

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Old 03-20-2022, 08:44 PM   #22
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...
They’re really not intended to be removed as a regular practice from the looks of them & Volvo basically only offers (offered?) the whole assembly keyed to your vin w/o separate parts back in the day…for however much that cost/however long it took order in as their uh ‘turn key solution’ ...
lol yes
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Old 03-20-2022, 10:01 PM   #23
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At this point I think the early locks may have used a plastic peg and then in 81 they updated it to an alloy one for this exact reason, I guess I’ll have to post a wanted thread and continue the hunt.
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Old 03-20-2022, 10:36 PM   #24
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The part number on your lock updates to the one I posted from Scandcar. Without one to look at I can only assume that the updated one has a metal peg.

Another option is to buy the wagon lock set that's still available. It comes with the ignition lock, 2 door locks and a tailgate lock.

https://vp-autoparts.com/en/artiklar..._265-1980.html
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Old 03-20-2022, 10:37 PM   #25
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The measurement I *think* I need is from the face cap of the lock to the mounting collar fasteners etc?

I have a 78-80 bits to look at & will measure/ take a pic if I can figure out to host it?

The late lock will probably function *at all*, but I remember the early lock was recessed too far when I swapped a late ‘81+ dash into a -‘80 car w/earlier column & lock assembly so it might not look right w/an ‘81-‘85 assembly installed in the -‘80 car w/original ‘75-‘80 dashboard, if that makes sense?

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