Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S - Page 22

Jack · 02-02-2018, 03:41 AM

picture you're smashing a 7/900 volvo roof, works for me eveytime

car is coming along nicely. Are you getting those control arms powder coated ?

also I got some better looking speaker covers. I;ll post some pictures

sksmith · 02-02-2018, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid

Good god, whats the trick for getting these lower ball joints off? They are stamped "Volvo" and might be original. They don't want to leave their home no matter what I do with the loaner ball joint press from Orielly's.

Impact with a 3/4" impact socket (I think it's 3/4"?) on the ball joint remover that you rented from O'Reilly's.
Mine were original as well and I got them out in a minute or so using my impact.
Installation was a breeze also.
Steve

matt b · 02-02-2018, 04:51 PM

Is there a neighbor you don't really like ? Use the control arms to knock on their door. You know, just to say Hi like a good neighbor would.

Coupid · 02-02-2018, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

Hold the A arm by the end with the bushings and slam the ball joint stud onto a steel table, vice anvil or something similarly hard a few times until it pops out. This might be difficult if the stud is really floppy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack

picture you're smashing a 7/900 volvo roof, works for me eveytime

car is coming along nicely. Are you getting those control arms powder coated ?

also I got some better looking speaker covers. I;ll post some pictures

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt b

Is there a neighbor you don't really like ? Use the control arms to knock on their door. You know, just to say Hi like a good neighbor would.

I had a S#$%$ day at work and when I came home tried this method. So easy and probably the most satisfying thing I've ever done on the car. Thanks guys!

If only the same method worked for the bushings lol

Jack · 02-03-2018, 01:26 AM

woop! nice

these are what you NEED

and shameless plug

aluminum everything

plastic frame, steel mesh (dusty)

Coupid · 02-05-2018, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack

woop! nice

these are what you NEED

and shameless plug

Those are a lot nicer than the ones on the car. But the ****ty plastic jensen ones are original.

Holy **** that was overly complicated. Couldn't get the nut off so I cut it with a dremel below the mounting point. The bolt wouldn't go through that way so I started sectioning the nut with a dremel.

Then I just went to Sears and got an adaptor for my wireless impact gun and boom!

It's all ready to go but I still need to do the control arm bushings.

Tfrasca · 02-06-2018, 10:46 AM

Man, I'm about to do all my bushings and ball joints and am not looking forward to it. You have a press to put it all back together?

Also, I plan on welding a few gussets onto my sway bar mounts on the lower control arms. The ones on my 142 are fine, but that 144 I had briefly had cracks all around the stock welds. Just cut out some triangles from 1/8 or 3/16 plate and have them welding on.

Jack · 02-06-2018, 01:14 PM

dremels are for fling finger nails and model airplanes

you need one of these

Coupid · 02-06-2018, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca

Man, I'm about to do all my bushings and ball joints and am not looking forward to it. You have a press to put it all back together?

Also, I plan on welding a few gussets onto my sway bar mounts on the lower control arms. The ones on my 142 are fine, but that 144 I had briefly had cracks all around the stock welds. Just cut out some triangles from 1/8 or 3/16 plate and have them welding on.

I’ll let you know if it was worth it once I get the car back on the ground. My sense is that it will transform the car. I have one of the c clamp presses and the newly discovered impact gun to drive it. Hopefully that does the trick. great point about the gussets, I’ve heard that is a weak point before. Too bad I can’t weld.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack

dremels are for fling finger nails and model airplanes

you need one of these

Very true! Then it wouldn’t have taken three days to not work lol

Coupid · 02-09-2018, 10:38 PM

I gave up after it took two evenings to get two LCA bushings out and I couldn't get the new ones to go in straight. Took the controls arms to the repair shop by my work and after some convincing got the awesome owner to break his rules about working on old cars, Volvos and using customer supplied parts... a few hours later and the new bushings were pressed in!

Putting the suspension back together was harder than I anticipated. Everything spun when I tried to torque the bolts down. Finally with enough pressure under the control arms and on the tie rods everything was back together.

I put what I thought were slightly taller front springs but they raised the front end up like 4 inches so I had to go back to the springs that were already in there.

All I have to do is put the swaybar and wheels back on and then I can go see how it drives!

Jack · 02-09-2018, 11:55 PM

get an alignment

sksmith · 02-10-2018, 10:46 AM

[QUOTE=Coupid;5747887]

Putting the suspension back together was harder than I anticipated. Everything spun when I tried to torque the bolts down. Finally with enough pressure under the control arms and on the tie rods everything was back together.
QUOTE]

You should have it sitting with all of the vehicle weight on it when you torque the a-arms, ball joints, & tie rods. Without a lift, get a set of ramps and set it on them. Then you can torque everything correctly.
Definitely take it in for an alignment, as Jack has stated. The a-arm shims, if there were any, will be different when replacing 40 year old rubber bushings and ball joints. I didn't put any shims back in mine, I'll let the alignment shop do it once I get the engine & transmission back in.
Steve

Tfrasca · 02-10-2018, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack

get an alignment

[QUOTE=sksmith;5748109]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid

Putting the suspension back together was harder than I anticipated. Everything spun when I tried to torque the bolts down. Finally with enough pressure under the control arms and on the tie rods everything was back together.
QUOTE]

You should have it sitting with all of the vehicle weight on it when you torque the a-arms, ball joints, & tie rods. Without a lift, get a set of ramps and set it on them. Then you can torque everything correctly.
Definitely take it in for an alignment, as Jack has stated. The a-arm shims, if there were any, will be different when replacing 40 year old rubber bushings and ball joints. I didn't put any shims back in mine, I'll let the alignment shop do it once I get the engine & transmission back in.
Steve

I have asked a couple tire places around Santa Cruz if they'd do an alignment on my car and they both said absolutely not. Another alignment place said they thought they could but I would have to provide a shim set. Did you guys just have any old shop do the alignment?

Jack · 02-10-2018, 11:46 AM

I don’t have that problem here even les Schwab can do it

It’s crazy I know adjusting more than toe

Coupid · 02-10-2018, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack

I don’t have that problem here even les Schwab can do it

It’s crazy I know adjusting more than toe

I'm on it!

All back together. Took the car out for a test drive. Needs an alignment for sure. Everything feels so tight and all the clunks are gone. What a PITA but the end result is worth it for sure! Can't wait to get the uppers done, get an alignment and new tires.

Thanks to everyone in the thread for the advice thus far

Tfrasca · 02-11-2018, 10:10 AM

Nice. So you didn't do upper control arm bushings at the same time?

Are you going to align to stock specs?

AndrewNance · 02-11-2018, 01:04 PM

I'd crush my car before I'd mess with upper control arm bushings in a 140 again. I ended up mailing mine to Ian and letting him do it. The ultimate PITA.

Coupid · 02-11-2018, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tfrasca

Nice. So you didn't do upper control arm bushings at the same time?

Are you going to align to stock specs?

VP only had one upper ball joint in stock so I decided to do all the lower stuff now and then the uppers when I get the other ball joint.

I was going to use the stock specs unless you have some that you like better

Good to know about the upper control arm bushings. Maybe I'll do the same?

vintagewrench · 02-11-2018, 02:38 PM

Have replaced a lot of these bushings over the years and its really not that bad after you get the hang of it.

Check this out on Facebook, non-rusted bushing out in mere minutes w/out any drama, of course I found it out not long after changing the 1800s lower bushings https://www.facebook.com/blaze.sk.5/...55345895166453

Coupid · 02-11-2018, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack

I don’t have that problem here even les Schwab can do it

It’s crazy I know adjusting more than toe

Quote:

Originally Posted by vintagewrench

Have replaced a lot of these bushings over the years and its really not that bad after you get the hang of it.

Check this out on Facebook, non-rusted bushing out in mere minutes w/out any drama, of course I found it out not long after changing the 1800s lower bushings https://www.facebook.com/blaze.sk.5/...55345895166453

that's awesome thanks for sharing!

Any reason not to reuse the sleeves?

Jack · 02-12-2018, 12:53 AM

No Facebook. How does he do it?

Coupid · 02-12-2018, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack

No Facebook. How does he do it?

runs a drill around the inner metal piece and then the sleeves. it pulls the rubber out in a few seconds

sksmith · 02-12-2018, 09:53 AM

Yep. Drill out one side and then the a-arm shaft comes out.
It's not fun, but it's nothing that you can't handle, if you got the lowers out / in.
Reinstall is put in one side, run the shaft thru the other side, then put in the 2nd bushing.
Steve

Tfrasca · 02-12-2018, 02:09 PM

What's so hard about the upper arms? I had my bushings removed with a hammer and a washer cut into a C shape like the repair manual states. I borrowed a friend's shop press and it doesn't seem like they'll be too hard to press in.

I'm using OEM bushings, so the sleeve is integrated and must come out. Are you using poly?

Dangerkitty · 02-12-2018, 03:30 PM

I had a local shop install my a-arm bushing and they said it was the hardest ones they've ever done.
Not sure why

Also, when I took it to the alignment shop they told me they would have the correct shims, but they didn't.
I'd suggest making sure you have enough of your own shims to give the shop just in case.

02-11-2018, 01:04 PM	#542
AndrewNance Amateur hour! Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Winston-Salem, NC	I'd crush my car before I'd mess with upper control arm bushings in a 140 again. I ended up mailing mine to Ian and letting him do it. The ultimate PITA. __________________ '67 122 - b230, t5, 8.8 Feedback

02-12-2018, 03:30 PM	#550
Dangerkitty Bored Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Bend OR	I had a local shop install my a-arm bushing and they said it was the hardest ones they've ever done. Not sure why Also, when I took it to the alignment shop they told me they would have the correct shims, but they didn't. I'd suggest making sure you have enough of your own shims to give the shop just in case. __________________ bicycles, a 71 145 GT project (now sold , a 1971 Camaro, and a monster 4 x 4 RV.

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02-02-2018, 04:51 PM	#528
matt b Board Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Tucson	Is there a neighbor you don't really like ? Use the control arms to knock on their door. You know, just to say Hi like a good neighbor would.

02-03-2018, 01:26 AM	#530
Jack junkman Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: The Ass Cheek Of History	woop! nice these are what you NEED and shameless plug aluminum everything plastic frame, steel mesh (dusty)

02-06-2018, 10:46 AM	#532
Tfrasca Board Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Ben Lomond, CA	Man, I'm about to do all my bushings and ball joints and am not looking forward to it. You have a press to put it all back together? Also, I plan on welding a few gussets onto my sway bar mounts on the lower control arms. The ones on my 142 are fine, but that 144 I had briefly had cracks all around the stock welds. Just cut out some triangles from 1/8 or 3/16 plate and have them welding on.

02-06-2018, 01:14 PM	#533
Jack junkman Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: The Ass Cheek Of History	dremels are for fling finger nails and model airplanes you need one of these

02-09-2018, 10:38 PM	#535
Coupid Board Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Santa Barbara, CA	I gave up after it took two evenings to get two LCA bushings out and I couldn't get the new ones to go in straight. Took the controls arms to the repair shop by my work and after some convincing got the awesome owner to break his rules about working on old cars, Volvos and using customer supplied parts... a few hours later and the new bushings were pressed in! Putting the suspension back together was harder than I anticipated. Everything spun when I tried to torque the bolts down. Finally with enough pressure under the control arms and on the tie rods everything was back together. I put what I thought were slightly taller front springs but they raised the front end up like 4 inches so I had to go back to the springs that were already in there. All I have to do is put the swaybar and wheels back on and then I can go see how it drives!

02-09-2018, 11:55 PM	#536
Jack junkman Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: The Ass Cheek Of History	get an alignment

02-10-2018, 10:46 AM	#537
sksmith Board Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Back in St. Louis, MO	[QUOTE=Coupid;5747887] Putting the suspension back together was harder than I anticipated. Everything spun when I tried to torque the bolts down. Finally with enough pressure under the control arms and on the tie rods everything was back together. QUOTE] You should have it sitting with all of the vehicle weight on it when you torque the a-arms, ball joints, & tie rods. Without a lift, get a set of ramps and set it on them. Then you can torque everything correctly. Definitely take it in for an alignment, as Jack has stated. The a-arm shims, if there were any, will be different when replacing 40 year old rubber bushings and ball joints. I didn't put any shims back in mine, I'll let the alignment shop do it once I get the engine & transmission back in. Steve

02-10-2018, 11:46 AM	#539
Jack junkman Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: The Ass Cheek Of History	I don’t have that problem here even les Schwab can do it It’s crazy I know adjusting more than toe

02-11-2018, 10:10 AM	#541
Tfrasca Board Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Ben Lomond, CA	Nice. So you didn't do upper control arm bushings at the same time? Are you going to align to stock specs?

02-11-2018, 02:38 PM	#544
vintagewrench Board Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Paradise	Have replaced a lot of these bushings over the years and its really not that bad after you get the hang of it. Check this out on Facebook, non-rusted bushing out in mere minutes w/out any drama, of course I found it out not long after changing the 1800s lower bushings https://www.facebook.com/blaze.sk.5/...55345895166453

02-12-2018, 12:53 AM	#546
Jack junkman Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: The Ass Cheek Of History	No Facebook. How does he do it?

02-12-2018, 09:53 AM	#548
sksmith Board Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Back in St. Louis, MO	Yep. Drill out one side and then the a-arm shaft comes out. It's not fun, but it's nothing that you can't handle, if you got the lowers out / in. Reinstall is put in one side, run the shaft thru the other side, then put in the 2nd bushing. Steve

02-12-2018, 02:09 PM	#549
Tfrasca Board Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Ben Lomond, CA	What's so hard about the upper arms? I had my bushings removed with a hammer and a washer cut into a C shape like the repair manual states. I borrowed a friend's shop press and it doesn't seem like they'll be too hard to press in. I'm using OEM bushings, so the sleeve is integrated and must come out. Are you using poly?