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#551 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ben Lomond, CA
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![]() FYI, I'm currently eating these words. Getting the upper bushings back in is a nightmare. The only thing I can think to try is cutting a section of pipe that will span the inner faces of the bushing surfaces, then notching it to fit over the spindle that has to be there. Otherwise you're just flexing the control arm instead of pushing the second bushing in. I recommend never doing the uppers.
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#552 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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![]() Quote:
__________________
1988 745T http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=356096 1972 142S http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=311926 1991 780 Sold 1979 244DL Sold 1986 740+T Sold 1983 242T Sold |
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#553 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ben Lomond, CA
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![]() Interesting. My lowers actually looked alright, but the uppers were dry rotted and the rubber literally crumbled out. But if your uppers look ok, just skip the bushings. You can pull the arm and leave the bushings intact.
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#554 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Back in St. Louis, MO
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![]() They were a PITA, for sure, but if you can do the lower's, you can do the uppers.
If I recall, I did get a kit for doing uppers. They are like older GM's, with the a-arm shaft. Dangerkitty, I'm surprised that the shop didn't have the shims. Again, they look like the shims on my old Buick Wildcat, which are standard old shims. Hell, Harbor Freight sells a kit with several sizes. Steve |
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#555 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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#556 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Chicagoland
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![]() read entire thread, never knew much about these 140s till now. fun car for you non-salters. drive straight and careful and keep up the good work
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#557 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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#558 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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![]() Quick no photo update.
rewired the tach with black wire since for some reason I used green when installing the GT cluster.The green looked silly to me. Also properly sorted out the connection at the coil Found a huge exhaust leak before the first muffler. The pipe wasn't in all the way so the expansion cut part was a huge hole. This involved hours of rolling around under the car and trying to wiggle the pipe in and out of the header. Very annoying but much improved. Still have a few more leaks down there. would benefit from some welding instead of c clamps. |
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#559 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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![]() My good friend got tired of looking at this combo in his garage and graciously gave me a great deal so I can hopefully make something out of it.
![]() B234 head with a B230 block and T5! ![]() Hoping the "93" means 1993? ![]() Here is the T5 ![]() This will be a long term project. Luckily the B20 and M40 are doing fine so I can piece together everything to make this into my dream car. Plan is to keep it NA, use a lot of Yoshifab magic and MS. My wife's cousin has an MS2 setup that he was planning to put on a BMW 2002 that he just sold so I will probably go that route for engine management. |
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#560 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ben Lomond, CA
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![]() If you go NA, please rig up some ITBs.
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#561 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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![]() I would love DCOEs or ITBs but there doesn’t seem to be a manifold to make it happen. Well, aside from the $500 sheet metal one on ebay
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#562 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Midwest, USA
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![]() I think that there are manifolds available in the motherland...? (I've seen a few b234 cars on insta with itb's on them.
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#563 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: P-town Or
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![]() There is a intake out there somewhere. I know this isn't much help but on one of the FB groups someone posted a link to one. I tried to find it for you but was not able to find it. If I end up finding it I'll send it your way.
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#564 |
The Librarian
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
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#565 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: P-town Or
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![]() You the man.
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#566 | |||
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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![]() Quote:
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-B234-...vip=true&rt=nc That being said it would be hard to justify going that route given the deal I can get on MS2. But then there is the sound lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RL1Hdvy7dc4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyzQqdREem4 |
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#568 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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From what I am reading, since I don't plan to put a turbo on the engine the freed up space from mounting the engine upright isn't needed. I could mount the engine slanted, use an M47 (with some transmission tunnel cutting) and a readily available B230 intake might just clear the brake booster? |
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#569 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ben Lomond, CA
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#570 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portland Oregon
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__________________
STSmachining |
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#571 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ben Lomond, CA
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#572 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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#573 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portland Oregon
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![]() We are planning on running a cosworth intake modified the flange to a 16v . should clear the brake booster
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#574 |
Amateur hour!
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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![]() If it needs it, you could just shorten the b234 intake like people do for 240s. I know this is 8v but mounting the engine slanted seems to leave a really good amount of space between the head and brake booster.
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#575 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ben Lomond, CA
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![]() Oh wow, I didn't realize clearance was that good with the engine slanted. Definitely do that, Colin.
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