Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S

[NO_SPRK]

EDIT: I SEE you have HIF carbs. Not HS. Those should last longer (throttle shaft bushing wise) than HS carbs.


Here's a few notes from a slight newbie when it comes to b20... I learned the hard way

Your going to need to buy a fuel pressure regulator for that weber. A high quality one at that. No kragens junk

#2 a big jet kit to get it right. mine was jetted huge compared to stock and still pinged without retarding the timing

#3 you will also need to run a intake coolant line for the winter (I disconnected mine in the summer)

You will get a constant sucking sound from the single barrel wanting more fuel and air.

Intake manifold was designed for a b18 not b20

You can get your carbs done for cheaper than 600... I found a guy who does rebuilding and new bushings, shafts for under $300. Redwood chair Gabe me his info. He even made a blog site showing his setup and him working on a carb. He said he pays way less than what we can for the real SU carb kits so for the price it's a good deal.

I pulled a set of SUs off a junkyard car and have been running them for over a week now no problems.

The progressive is a pain to tune because you have to take it apart for jetting. I love how simple the SUs are.

If anything I'd say sell the brand new progressive and buy a synchronized non progressive 38mm weber.

Originally Posted by Coupid

I have heard opinions that its an improvement and that they are terrible. I think it mostly has to do with how well you can get the weber tuned vs what sort of shape the SUs you removed were in. The SUs are original so like 250k miles. They need a full rebuild and the price for this weber kit was less.


Plus I like how the single carb simplifies the look of the engine bay. If it really is that bad to drive with, I will start rebuilding the SUs and swap them back.

[Jack]

Originally Posted by Hootbot

That downdraft weber is a downgrade if the su's work fine I would leave them.

depends ....
little less power but better economy
easier to make it run right

[Coupid]

Thanks for these pointers on getting the weber set up. Still waiting for my dual port exhaust manifold to materialize from ebay. I have been putting together a little suspension package while I wait.

After talking with AndrewNance I ordered a set of 5x7 800# front springs along with Carrera shocks. In the rear I am going to do KYB Gas-a-justs and 5x8 250# springs. I still need to determine if Kaplhenke adjustable perches will work on my car.

Today I ordered some wheels that will either look really bad or actually okay. Should be able to determine that next week!

Originally Posted by NO_SPRK

EDIT: I SEE you have HIF carbs. Not HS. Those should last longer (throttle shaft bushing wise) than HS carbs.


Here's a few notes from a slight newbie when it comes to b20... I learned the hard way

Your going to need to buy a fuel pressure regulator for that weber. A high quality one at that. No kragens junk

#2 a big jet kit to get it right. mine was jetted huge compared to stock and still pinged without retarding the timing

#3 you will also need to run a intake coolant line for the winter (I disconnected mine in the summer)

You will get a constant sucking sound from the single barrel wanting more fuel and air.

Intake manifold was designed for a b18 not b20

You can get your carbs done for cheaper than 600... I found a guy who does rebuilding and new bushings, shafts for under $300. Redwood chair Gabe me his info. He even made a blog site showing his setup and him working on a carb. He said he pays way less than what we can for the real SU carb kits so for the price it's a good deal.

I pulled a set of SUs off a junkyard car and have been running them for over a week now no problems.

The progressive is a pain to tune because you have to take it apart for jetting. I love how simple the SUs are.

If anything I'd say sell the brand new progressive and buy a synchronized non progressive 38mm weber.

[Coupid]

The exhaust manifold arrived today and I got to test fit it.



Now I see what all the fuss about milling the exhaust manifold down 1/8" is about



Short of actually taking it to a machine shop I should be able to grind it down to match the surface level of the intake right?

[Redwood Chair]

Better to weld up some cut washers and the OE cast iron ones to make stepped washers, like what came on 75's.

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

Better to weld up some cut washers and the OE cast iron ones to make stepped washers, like what came on 75's.

Oh yeah that makes even more sense. I will try that instead! You wouldn't happen to have any of these unicorn '75 washers would you?

[Coupid]

Bolted up the intake manfold with the newly fabbed washers.

The IPD instructions simply say to run the vacuum line from the vacuum advance on the distributor to the port on the back side of the carb. What about all the lines going to the charcoal canister?



Just because I was curious, I fired it up with all that disconnected and after a false start with the choke cable it started right up and idled!!



Mister Pants won't be sleeping on the roof for much longer

[NO_SPRK]

junk all that charcoal canister nonsense.

Originally Posted by Coupid

Bolted up the intake manfold with the newly fabbed washers.

The IPD instructions simply say to run the vacuum line from the vacuum advance on the distributor to the port on the back side of the carb. What about all the lines going to the charcoal canister?



Just because I was curious, I fired it up with all that disconnected and after a false start with the choke cable it started right up and idled!!



Mister Pants won't be sleeping on the roof for much longer

[NO_SPRK]

i know its too late for you but the fuel injected exhaust manifolds are 3/4 thick and mate perfectly with the cannon/weber intake.

i had to use step washers on my SU aluminum intake to mate up with my FI exhaust manifold

Originally Posted by Coupid

Now I see what all the fuss about milling the exhaust manifold down 1/8" is about

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by NO_SPRK

junk all that charcoal canister nonsense.

Roger that! I have read that I can just cap the tube from the gas tank with a bosch inline filter and remove the lines and canister.

I finished fitting the 5x7 800lb springs today and my wheels arrived at the same time.



*not my expedition but parking next to it does make the car look even lower.

I plan on ordering rear springs to even out that rake but I wanted to see what it would look like tonight.

[NO_SPRK]

looking good. how do those wheels clear the steering? any hard turn rubbing?

what size tires? more pics!

Originally Posted by Coupid

Roger that! I have read that I can just cap the tube from the gas tank with a bosch inline filter and remove the lines and canister.

I finished fitting the 5x7 800lb springs today and my wheels arrived at the same time.



*not my expedition but parking next to it does make the car look even lower.

I plan on ordering rear springs to even out that rake but I wanted to see what it would look like tonight.

[NO_SPRK]

i have 1 extra one that needs paint... i may be able to part with it. if you can find one that needs paint i recently found this video online...

https://youtu.be/mL4IYoxJqu4

Originally Posted by Coupid

Anyone know where I can get one of these?



All of the lenses are in good shape but this got crunched by some kid in a parking lot.

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by NO_SPRK

looking good. how do those wheels clear the steering? any hard turn rubbing?

what size tires? more pics!

I literally put them on the car and put it in the driveway to snap that before it got dark.

The tires are 205 55 r16

Will post many more photos soon and check for clearance.

Originally the plan was to plastidip them but I like them way more than I anticipated.

[Coupid]

I followed No_Sprk's advice (Thanks!!) and had a moment to investigate the Weber after work today.

At the start of the day it would idle barely and either backfire through the carb or die when I applied the throttle.

First I lengthened the throttle linkage so everything was more aligned. Then I followed the idle tuning notes from Weber very closely. After doing this I determined that the idle jet was small and causing it to run lean.

I pulled the primary idle jet and swapped it from a 55 to a 65. It ran a lot better so I swapped the secondary from a 50 to a 55. Then I took it around the block and it ran like an absolute champ.



I'm not sure if the SU HIFs are completely worn out or just poorly adjusted. Part of me wishes I spent more time trying to learn about them before I jumped to the Weber but for the deal I got on it I think I am going to be very happy with a brand new carb.

More goodies arrive tomorrow! It is so relaxing to come home from work and play around with something mechanical for a few hours.

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by Coupid

Oh yeah that makes even more sense. I will try that instead! You wouldn't happen to have any of these unicorn '75 washers would you?

I probably have a few kicking around.

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

I probably have a few kicking around.

PMd

A few goodies showed up from the Volvo Fairy just in time for 142sday. The wheel will go on after I refresh the tired looking hardware but I got the IPD valve cover on right away. It seems to seal a lot better than the stock one. I also took out the charcoal canister which really cleaned up that side of the engine compartment.




Someone was selling a "Ansa Sport Rear Exhaust" for a 140 on Ebay. I have never seen or heard of such a thing, my fingers are crossed that it is a true Ansa Sport exhaust. Since I needed a new rear muffler I figured I didn't have much to lose. All will be revealed tomorrow.

[Coupid]

The mystery exhaust showed up and it exceeded my expectations:

[Coupid]

Alright time for an update.

I got the Ansa exhaust fitted to the car last week. I had to find a reducer to clamp it to my stock rear muffler so it took a while to get the fitment fine tuned.

Speaking of fine tuning, I finally listened to the instructions and advice from people in this thread and plumbed up the coolant to the intake manifold. That, coupled with bumping up the jet one size made the car run awesome throughout the rev range.

The direction for the wheels changed a bit as well. I have always wanted Gotti's since I worked at a Ferrari Dealership right out of University. My General Manager them on his perfect Renault R5 Turbo 2 and I feel in love with both the car and the wheels. Finding a set in 5x108 is very hard and finding a staggered set is even more difficult.

Thanks to my friends I was able to get them swapped onto the car after work today! Here is what it looks like now:

[adomz]

That's amazing man!! Really like how it looks!

ADam

[adomz]

DP

[NO_SPRK]

Balla!

So run the coolant line in the winter. I disconnected mine in the summer when it started to ping and diesel (too hot intake air)

[ZVOLV]

Originally Posted by Coupid

url]

Nice! To be honest, i was more intrigued by that room the car is in....

Provoked thoughts. Such as nice garage. Also thought of how it would make a great "Dexter kill room."

[Nick Oc]

Car is absolutely beautiful.

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by Acurry6

Woah. This thing is sick.

Originally Posted by Nick Oc

Car is absolutely beautiful.

Thanks Guys!

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

Nice! To be honest, i was more intrigued by that room the car is in....

Provoked thoughts. Such as nice garage. Also thought of how it would make a great "Dexter kill room."

I'm lucky to have a garage but it looks nothing like the room in these photos. After helping put the wheels on the car my friends also suggested using this secret room as a backdrop for some photos.

Originally Posted by NO_SPRK

Balla!

So run the coolant line in the winter. I disconnected mine in the summer when it started to ping and diesel (too hot intake air)

Its been in the 80s down here still and it seems to run a lot better with it on. What gas do you use?

Originally Posted by adomz

That's amazing man!! Really like how it looks!

ADam

Thanks!

[Acurry6]

Woah. This thing is sick.