Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by UTAHGTBRICK

Please dont take the bumpers off. That is sooo hipster douchey status. Plus you better hope you dont get hit. I put my bumpers back on because its a cool look but theres always that what happens if... anyways i am very glad you are using the parts you got from me. The car looks amazing with those wheels.

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

+1

It's not an Indy car.

Just what I wanted to hear, I like the slim chrome bumpers that are on it. I think they look classy and match the polished wheels. If removing the bumpers is as simple as unbolting I might do it just to see how it looks. But I think they will be on to stay.

[NO_SPRK]

Keep the bumpers on

[hiperfauto]

140's look ok without a front bumper, but they're very vulnerable without one.

My front bumper was mangled so I took it off. The reason the center section is flat black is because a customer (ironically driving another 142) backed into my car, so I had to remove the panel, drill the spot welds to gain access to the damaged area and pound out the dent.

Then there's the license plate issue. You're required to have a front plate in California and there's no good place to mount one.

[Uncleknucklez]

Originally Posted by 240keith

bring it in, ill bring the electric impact, and I am sure we can figure it out ... lets ask that guy above - i am sure it unbolts without needing to cut it off...

It's four bolts, two of which have to go back because they hold the brake line. Easy as pie.

[NO_SPRK]

Ahhh bummer about your 142 and I like your tucked plate...

But I think the older models with no vents look good i.e. mine

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

140's look ok without a front bumper, but they're very vulnerable without one.

My front bumper was mangled so I took it off. The reason the center section is flat black is because a customer (ironically driving another 142) backed into my car, so I had to remove the panel, drill the spot welds to gain access to the damaged area and pound out the dent.

Then there's the license plate issue. You're required to have a front plate in California and there's no good place to mount one.

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by Coupid

Just what I wanted to hear, I like the slim chrome bumpers that are on it. I think they look classy and match the polished wheels. If removing the bumpers is as simple as unbolting I might do it just to see how it looks. But I think they will be on to stay.

Don't bother it will look like this for a bit when it comes back from paint if you do indeed give it some paint it probably needs by now.

Originally Posted by NO_SPRK

Keep the bumpers on

[/URL]

+2

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

140's look ok without a front bumper, but they're very vulnerable without one.

My front bumper was mangled so I took it off. The reason the center section is flat black is because a customer (ironically driving another 142) backed into my car, so I had to remove the panel, drill the spot welds to gain access to the damaged area and pound out the dent.

Then there's the license plate issue. You're required to have a front plate in California and there's no good place to mount one.

OK but something definitely looks like it's missing due to the bumper strut through holes in the front valance.

Good straight 140 bumpers are getting hard to find as well.

[AndrewNance]

Another vote for keeping the bumper on. I think the front end looks a little derpy without it.

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

Don't bother it will look like this for a bit when it comes back from paint if you do indeed give it some paint it probably needs by now.





+2



OK but something definitely looks like it's missing due to the bumper strut through holes in the front valance.

Good straight 140 bumpers are getting hard to find as well.

That looks like a really clean 140!

[Coupid]

Okay here is the ride height after more adjusting tonight. It still makes it in and out of my driveway easily so this is the limit of how low it will go. Still might get 5x10 springs to raise it up a little more in the back.

Does anyone have an adjustable panhard rod for a 140?

[pillowball]

AndrewNance may have already shared this info with you, but contact Crandandall and he can make your existing panhard bar adjustable for a very reasonable price. He did my ph bar and torque rods recently and I'm very happy with the results.

[Owsley]

My vote is no bumper. It will look awesome in yellow if you repaint the car.

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

Don't bother it will look like this for a bit when it comes back from paint if you do indeed give it some paint it probably needs by now.





+2



OK but something definitely looks like it's missing due to the bumper strut through holes in the front valance.

Good straight 140 bumpers are getting hard to find as well.

[Coupid]

All the pushing to get the rear suspension done was so I could cruise around with my dad while he is visiting this weekend. We took it out this morning and he instantly said that the exhaust sounded like it was rubbing on the body. I had dismissed that sound as the springs settling but as soon as he mentioned the exhaust it sounded like the right diagnosis. We took the car on a few windy roads and then stopped at an overlook so I could snap this photo:



When we were about to get back in the car, I noticed the tailpipe was sitting a little low. I pressed down on the tailpipe and the rear section of the exhaust seemed really loose. When we started it back up it was really loud. When I crawled under the car I could see that the over the axle U section was completely disconnected from the front muffler.



I already have it put back together but unfortunately I thought it sounded really good with the single muffler. When I get the headers on I may just do a single muffler and exit in front of the passenger rear tire...

[Uncleknucklez]

Originally Posted by Coupid

Car looks phenomenal!!

[NO_SPRK]

Nice pics... word of warning. Single muffler systems on our engines will raspy and sound like a fat can. How do I know? My 144 came with a 4into1 header and a single muffler. My new exhaust has a small resonator and i sounds so nice now.

FYI I heard you say header but I dunno if you mean manifold.

I would advice against a header with a weber setup. They work against each other

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by Owsley

My vote is no bumper. It will look awesome in yellow if you repaint the car.

You'd be wrong, decent 140 front clips are few and far between nowadays.

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by bruspeed

Car looks phenomenal!!

Thank you

Originally Posted by NO_SPRK

Nice pics... word of warning. Single muffler systems on our engines will raspy and sound like a fat can. How do I know? My 144 came with a 4into1 header and a single muffler. My new exhaust has a small resonator and i sounds so nice now.

FYI I heard you say header but I dunno if you mean manifold.

I would advice against a header with a weber setup. They work against each other

I think you are probably right about the single muffler since it would have to be pretty small to tuck up under that part of the car. With the stock front muffler blowing the exhaust right into the underside of the rear seat I still think it sounded pretty good.

What do you mean about the header and weber being at odds?

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

You'd be wrong, decent 140 front clips are few and far between nowadays.

You've convinced me Ken, the bumper will stay on!

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by Coupid

You've convinced me Ken, the bumper will stay on!

It's bad enough the 'touch parkers' take out the grills, but that front valance is a huge piece and hard to change out.



Not to mention it's 71 & 72 specific.

[The Full Banana]

This is a neat car--I really like it. Keep it up!

[Coupid]

When I got the wheels, two would only hold air for about 4 hours at a time. Since I wanted to get the car together in time for my dad's visit I prioritized getting them resealed first. Thanks to Greg and everyone else who helped me through that.

Now that the time crunch is over I will be resealing the final 2 wheels. It's not as much of a rush so I will try to take some photos this time around:



Mystery solved regarding where these wheels originally rolled:

[amerbritcan]

Does that say Ferrari 308? Super cool.

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by amerbritcan

Does that say Ferrari 308? Super cool.

Yessir, I guess that makes sense since Ferrari uses 5x108 also and no one was putting Gottis on Volvos when these wheels were first made.

[AndrewNance]

Nice! That's what my Epsilons came off of. Are those staggered 7" et20 and 8" et0?

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by AndrewNance

Nice! That's what my Epsilons came off of. Are those staggered 7" et20 and 8" et0?

Thank god we share bolt patterns with them lol.

I'm not sure about the offset but they are 16x7 front 16x8 rear

[Coupid]

I'm not really sure how the car ran as well as it did. When I did the initial tune up months ago when I bought my car, it was my first time working with points. I read the Hayne's manual and a few tutorials online and evidently completely misunderstood everything I read.

In order to set the points, I set the gap between the rubbing block and the distributor cam instead of between the contact points. Somehow the car has run and run pretty well for the last few months.

This weekend I was thinking about the ignition and starting looking back into the points. I saw this great video on youtube and regapped the points correctly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoQbmuMploc

Nora and I took the car out for some fun on some backroads this afternoon and man does it run better now! I should probably be embarrassed about this whole thing but I figured I would share it just in case anyone else is working on their first vintage Volvo.

[Redwood Chair]

Did you put a little dab of silicone grease on the follower, and oil the bronze bushing on the bottom of the dizzy tower?