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Old 12-15-2017, 02:15 AM   #1
Volvo265
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Default 240 radiator with a 4.3 chevy engine

I have an unusual problem on my 265. I purchased the car with a 4.3 chevy engine installed in it. The person who did the swap had the original 265 radiator modified. They added a regular radiator cap and fill neck to the side of the radiator, and removed the small fitting that is normally in the end tank of the radiator about half way down that goes to the remote coolant filler tank. The radiator cools the engine fine - but with the remote filler tank gone, I cant get the cooling system full - there is air trapped in the heater core (as it is higher up than the filler neck on the radiator). This prevents the heater from working at idle - i have to rev the engine up to get coolant flowing through the core again. I would like to reinstall the remote filler tank, but will need to change the radiator now since the fitting that goes to the remote tank is gone now.

A 260 radiator is hard to find, but I have access to several nice 240 radiators (and hoses and remote fill tanks/brackets) in the local you-pull-it yards. Whats the chance that a 4 cyl radiator would keep the 4.3 cool? It is smaller from what I can tell, But the 260 radiator seems to be way more than adequate. I am using a 2 speed electric fan from a taurus and on high it REALLY moves alot of air.

Should I try a 240 radiator??
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Old 12-15-2017, 03:11 AM   #2
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sure why not? Where did you get this car, just curious
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Old 12-15-2017, 03:15 AM   #3
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I'm using a 92 740 non turbo radiator in my lm7 v8 Wagon
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Old 12-15-2017, 04:44 AM   #4
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sure why not? Where did you get this car, just curious
My old boss kinda "re-did" this car in about 1999...It sat most of the time after that as a spare vehicle and eventually he decided to sell it, so I bought it...
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Old 12-15-2017, 04:45 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 77volvo245 View Post
I'm using a 92 740 non turbo radiator in my lm7 v8 Wagon
How well does it fit?
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:11 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Volvo265 View Post
How well does it fit?
It should fit like a small block Chubby only shorter. Sounds like a decent swap weight wise too.
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Old 12-15-2017, 11:36 AM   #7
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jack the front end up until the filler neck is the highest point in the system, then let it run for a while, make sure to bounce it off the rev limiter a few times
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Old 12-15-2017, 11:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotankshane View Post
jack the front end up until the filler neck is the highest point in the system, then let it run for a while, make sure to bounce it off the rev limiter a few times
Getting the front end up high is a good way to bleed what you have, be sure heater is running on full hot, I'm not sure you need to bounce the rev limiter though lol
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Old 12-15-2017, 12:36 PM   #9
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I'm using a 940 non Turbo radiator in our 5.0 power Volvo it seems to be fine. Not real happy with the fit.

I happen to have a 262 radiator I'm not using. Anywhere close to Tacoma Wa?
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Old 12-15-2017, 12:45 PM   #10
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Maybe you could even just park it on a steep enough hill and do it. Or maybe one of those spill free funnels?
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Old 12-15-2017, 04:11 PM   #11
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You may have to raise the front of the car to get out the trapped air.
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo265 View Post
How well does it fit?
It's a direct fit. You'll have to cut the plastic feet on the bottom. You cant use the rubber isolators on the bottom rad support though.
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NONHOG View Post
I'm using a 940 non Turbo radiator in our 5.0 power Volvo it seems to be fine. Not real happy with the fit.

I happen to have a 262 radiator I'm not using. Anywhere close to Tacoma Wa?
I'm nowhere near Washington state. I'm in southwest missouri. But if youre willing to box it up id buy it from you and pay the shipping...

Also interested in learning about your 5.0 swap. To be totally honest I am not thrilled with this 4.3 chevy engine, I have been thinking a 5.0 ford with an AOD would be a better choice..
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Old 12-15-2017, 11:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NONHOG View Post
I happen to have a 262 radiator I'm not using. Anywhere close to Tacoma Wa?
Having been there, done that, I would suggest that any properly functioning at least 2 row radiator that fit the opening in your car and with a correctly functioning electrical fan would be perfectly adequate to cool a 4.3L V6. In the new world of aluminum/plastic radiators the issue is getting all the external connections correctly aligned. In a copper radiator you could change things around with a torch and solder. Not anymore.

My stock Explorer, advertised at 240hp, is extremely more than adequate to move the Volvo. The 2000 Explorer weighed 1,000 pounds more than my 1982 245 with tires much smaller. My car was originally a Diesel with a 3.11 rear end and even with that starting on dry pavement careful application of pedal is required to keep from smoking the right rear tire.

Everything you could possibly need to know about a Ford 302/4R70W conversion can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257
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Old 12-15-2017, 11:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Having been there, done that, I would suggest that any properly functioning at least 2 row radiator that fit the opening in your car and with a correctly functioning electrical fan would be perfectly adequate to cool a 4.3L V6. In the new world of aluminum/plastic radiators the issue is getting all the external connections correctly aligned. In a copper radiator you could change things around with a torch and solder. Not anymore.

My stock Explorer, advertised at 240hp, is extremely more than adequate to move the Volvo. The 2000 Explorer weighed 1,000 pounds more than my 1982 245 with tires much smaller. My car was originally a Diesel with a 3.11 rear end and even with that starting on dry pavement careful application of pedal is required to keep from smoking the right rear tire.

Everything you could possibly need to know about a Ford 302/4R70W conversion can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257
Good to know, thanks. My 4.3 is a 97 model and rated around 190hp, it moves the volvo well but i'm just not fond of the engine and its fuel injection. I think the 302 ford with mass air fuel injection is a better setup.

The one thing I do like about the chevy engine is that the ECM is weatherproof- Its designed to be under the hood. Not the case for the ford ECM, so the wiring harness has to be run through the firewall and then you have to find a place to mount the ecm securely. I kinda wonder if I could wire the GM ECM to the 302 and program it to run it. However, the 4.3 uses a distributor and I would be interested in using the distributorless ignition system of the explorer 5.0. I think that might be the biggest issue with trying to run a vortec ECM on the ford engine...
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Old 12-16-2017, 10:05 AM   #16
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The electrical part of the conversion is the big half of the effort. No way the GM system is going to run the Ford. Easiest solution is an aftermarket 'puter. That bypasses all the PATS issues of the Ford.
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Old 12-16-2017, 03:08 PM   #17
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You jacked your own thread!

Basically people are telling you to get the front end up because you want the highest point on the cooling system to be where you can get the air out. Thus putting the front up should work. Just let it idle and rev a little. Squeeze hoses and help push the air to the highest point. That should take care of the issue for now and you can ponder another swap while you enjoy that swap.

Just as an fyi car makes like Porsche had this issue with the 924. They actually had a bleed fitting in the upper radiator hose because that was the spot that was highest in the cooling system.
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Old 12-16-2017, 03:18 PM   #18
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+1 to getting the front end up.

One of my Lemons cars uses an aftermarket aluminum radiator without the factory overflow tank and does not have a heater core so that has been common procedure. Usually takes me a few tries to get it done completely.
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Old 12-17-2017, 11:58 AM   #19
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Try juicing up the 4.3 first. There is plenty of aftermarket there to support it.

Cam swap alone should get it humming.

It is a durable engine with available parts. A lot can be said for that.
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Old 12-17-2017, 12:19 PM   #20
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Here's the Rad I got for my SBC 740, probably works in a 200 also for others, I paid 94.00 ( blemished) works well, easy to mount
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-Alumi...NZ6wvw&vxp=mtr
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Old 12-18-2017, 01:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo265 View Post
I'm nowhere near Washington state. I'm in southwest missouri. But if youre willing to box it up id buy it from you and pay the shipping...

Also interested in learning about your 5.0 swap. To be totally honest I am not thrilled with this 4.3 chevy engine, I have been thinking a 5.0 ford with an AOD would be a better choice..
Shipping would be a killer, I would check your local radiator supplier or free shipping online deals first.

The 5.0 is a fun DD but not much of a Hot Rod it will need a cam swap(then springs/tune) if you are looking for any mid to higher range HP. (same with the 4.3) the 4.3 is limited by an EFI system that will limit gains both the 4.3 and the 5.0 will need computer tuning to get much beyond the factory power ratings.(the 5.0 has to be tuned unless you find one w/o PATS, even then it should be tuned to your application).
I have a 4.3 in my GMC and had one in a Silverado. Both have decent (for a DD) low end but not much in top end, the gain you would get going 4.3 to 5.0 (both stock?) wouldn't be worth the effort IMO.

That being said I love the 5.0 with one quick twist of the key its starts ready to take whatever you give it. I think it needs a cam swap (must have had too many big blocks in my past)
My wife could care less. Her car.
Read TP's link. (if you haven't already) a link to my build is in there.

If you want power? I'd consider LS style swap.

Any pics of the 4.3?
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Old 12-18-2017, 02:55 PM   #22
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Agreed with Nonhog 100%!

Engine Masters fun with a stock to turbo 5.0: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FNDvLPWxoM Basically 275 flywheel in perfect conditions.

Especially with a 4.3 already there the jump to a LS would be EASY bolt in. LS9 cam swap and springs = 400+ flywheel - cheap easy reliable and all factory.

Any SBC 350 or SBF 302 (5.0) needs heads ($) and cam to keep up with the modern LS/Coyote/Hemi stock stuff. But for the street, 400 is a handful People talking about 500+ I don't think have driven that much HP on the street as a daily. Sideways 99% of life! Eats tires for lunch.
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:29 PM   #23
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Easy swap would be to go from 4.3 to 350 SBC V8, seems everything would still work,
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pillow View Post
Try juicing up the 4.3 first. There is plenty of aftermarket there to support it.

Cam swap alone should get it humming.

It is a durable engine with available parts. A lot can be said for that.
There were odd fire cranks for the 4.3 available for racing purposes. Odd fire crank and a V8 distributor (uses 6 of the 8 spark plug wire terminals, probably used a mid 70's Odd Fire Buick V6 HEI disttributor cap).
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Old 12-20-2017, 11:57 PM   #25
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I will put the car on my ramps and fill it up and run it up to temperature and play around with it to get as much coolant in it as I can. That will likely do the trick. But I still would like to get the proper setup put back in it eventually.
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