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240 Torque rod bushing question
- Thread starter nel621
- Start date
Redwood Chair
- Stock PSI Or Bust -
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Location
- Ocean Beach S.F.
Yes voids fore and aft for compliance.
Isn't it voids fore/aft for the trailing arms (primarily vertical weight support from the car), and for the torque rods the voids are top and bottom?
hiperfauto
The Librarian
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2011
- Location
- So Cal
The greenbook doesn't have an illustration. It just says to install the bushing with the flat sides parallel to the rod.
This pic is from IPD.
This pic is from IPD.
Kjets On a Plane
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2002
- Location
- Californicated Oregone
As hi-perf auto shows.
The OEM rubber bushings late torque rods/dog bones are nice & quiet when they?re new.
I can see why the factory designed them that way.
That said, the early ?hour glass? torque rods w/the harder of the OEM bushings squeezed into them last way better & are waaaay stronger than late or poly & way quieter than buzzy poly?
The early type rust at the weld/break in salted or rust coast cars, but we?d ?double skin? the early hour glass dog bones for ultimate rally/demolition derby nut job abuse & hysterical laughter uses on a budget?
I?m down to only 3 or 4 spare sets of rust free early, not sure I want to come off any of them or if quality OEM Boge stiffer rubber bushings are a NLA these days?
It?s a real PITA Press & glue the early in & out?miserable!
I?d just look for grandmas ?81-?82 garaged cool weather inland no salt 3 speed auto/tall rear axle gutless B21F/B21A/D24 (tho almost too much off-idle take-off torque in the case of the D24 LMAO) ~80-100hp (when new, much less wheel Hp thru the AW/BW-55!) low miles smooth roads 244 donor car for good early dog bones for a consummate junkyard dog on a budget??
Last year of early varies, ~?80-?83 depending on model/trim level?
Iirc V6 & turbo got late (quieter) type earlier from what I?ve observed walking past thousands of cars per year when they were thick in the JYs.
If you had an earlier car that needed those bushings, often the dealer replaced them with late assemblies with the Volvo tag.
If your bushings were worn out, generally, often the dealer would install a late model torque rod complete assembly with the bushings already pressed in / quick labor time and they often had them in stock at dealers here rather then have the dealer grease monkey dig for the press tool & spend the ~1/2 hour+ start to finish press all 4 of them (if all went well?) just-so with the risk that the car had been running around with them loose & late model eyelets were egged out oval/oblong and wouldn?t hold the OEM bushing shells tight anymore, were rusty/crusty, or bound up/didn?t want to press out & back in smoothly?
As long as the upper arms stay tight but with *some* rubbery vibe absorption/articulation & compliance & you use quality OEM replacement rubber parts & drive on smooth cool weather roads gently without jackrabbit / light-light drag strip starts/hot rodding around, you should rarely have to change the big PITA lower bushings in my experience?
?tall skinny 14? vanagon tires with plenty of sidewall on ultra light strong Bertone Lego, 240 Classic/scorpius-X (no fun to clean) or GT 14? wheels. (Or lighter of the Coronas w/stainless acorn lugs but I don?t like them much (can only really use sticky weights/don?t take a beating as well S the others) of the OEM choices are probably best for suspension longevity?
14? quality tires with good selection/junkyard-able are getting rarer & early steelies take more abuse than alloys even if they can rust/are heavier & more unsprung weight?
Over loaded without overload springs to keep the back level or shocks allowing too many oscillations towing or up the wash board boat ramp is also pretty brutal?
They kinda had the design more ?right? on the 140s, but the OEM giant bushings allow for more compliance on the front of the lower arm on those & the 4 link doesn?t stick up from the axle tube to control for torque/thrust under power as well on the 140?but 140s were also lighter & had less power/torque than a 260 or something?
140s are definitely sketchy when the big bushing in the front of the lower trailing arm bushing is jell-o soft or worn compared to 240s with worn axle bushings?
To my knowledge, a 164 1031 bolts into a 140 up to 1974 before the ?75 164 was essentially a 200 series from the firewall back, so idk what they did for B30 torque/power??harder compound bushings? Wasn?t an issue in the warranty period if there even were warranties hardly in those days?
I don?t know much about 164s?they?re crazy obscure & I got no use for a sedan & use/abuse wagons as a defacto pickup truck?
The OEM rubber bushings late torque rods/dog bones are nice & quiet when they?re new.
I can see why the factory designed them that way.
That said, the early ?hour glass? torque rods w/the harder of the OEM bushings squeezed into them last way better & are waaaay stronger than late or poly & way quieter than buzzy poly?
The early type rust at the weld/break in salted or rust coast cars, but we?d ?double skin? the early hour glass dog bones for ultimate rally/demolition derby nut job abuse & hysterical laughter uses on a budget?
I?m down to only 3 or 4 spare sets of rust free early, not sure I want to come off any of them or if quality OEM Boge stiffer rubber bushings are a NLA these days?
It?s a real PITA Press & glue the early in & out?miserable!
I?d just look for grandmas ?81-?82 garaged cool weather inland no salt 3 speed auto/tall rear axle gutless B21F/B21A/D24 (tho almost too much off-idle take-off torque in the case of the D24 LMAO
) ~80-100hp (when new, much less wheel Hp thru the AW/BW-55!) low miles smooth roads 244 donor car for good early dog bones for a consummate junkyard dog on a budget??Last year of early varies, ~?80-?83 depending on model/trim level?
Iirc V6 & turbo got late (quieter) type earlier from what I?ve observed walking past thousands of cars per year when they were thick in the JYs.
If you had an earlier car that needed those bushings, often the dealer replaced them with late assemblies with the Volvo tag.
If your bushings were worn out, generally, often the dealer would install a late model torque rod complete assembly with the bushings already pressed in / quick labor time and they often had them in stock at dealers here rather then have the dealer grease monkey dig for the press tool & spend the ~1/2 hour+ start to finish press all 4 of them (if all went well?) just-so with the risk that the car had been running around with them loose & late model eyelets were egged out oval/oblong and wouldn?t hold the OEM bushing shells tight anymore, were rusty/crusty, or bound up/didn?t want to press out & back in smoothly?
As long as the upper arms stay tight but with *some* rubbery vibe absorption/articulation & compliance & you use quality OEM replacement rubber parts & drive on smooth cool weather roads gently without jackrabbit / light-light drag strip starts/hot rodding around, you should rarely have to change the big PITA lower bushings in my experience?
?tall skinny 14? vanagon tires with plenty of sidewall on ultra light strong Bertone Lego, 240 Classic/scorpius-X (no fun to clean) or GT 14? wheels. (Or lighter of the Coronas w/stainless acorn lugs but I don?t like them much (can only really use sticky weights/don?t take a beating as well S the others) of the OEM choices are probably best for suspension longevity?
14? quality tires with good selection/junkyard-able are getting rarer & early steelies take more abuse than alloys even if they can rust/are heavier & more unsprung weight?
Over loaded without overload springs to keep the back level or shocks allowing too many oscillations towing or up the wash board boat ramp is also pretty brutal?
They kinda had the design more ?right? on the 140s, but the OEM giant bushings allow for more compliance on the front of the lower arm on those & the 4 link doesn?t stick up from the axle tube to control for torque/thrust under power as well on the 140?but 140s were also lighter & had less power/torque than a 260 or something?
140s are definitely sketchy when the big bushing in the front of the lower trailing arm bushing is jell-o soft or worn compared to 240s with worn axle bushings?
To my knowledge, a 164 1031 bolts into a 140 up to 1974 before the ?75 164 was essentially a 200 series from the firewall back, so idk what they did for B30 torque/power??harder compound bushings? Wasn?t an issue in the warranty period if there even were warranties hardly in those days?
I don?t know much about 164s?they?re crazy obscure & I got no use for a sedan & use/abuse wagons as a defacto pickup truck?
Last edited:
Kjets On a Plane
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2002
- Location
- Californicated Oregone
The lower big bushings that are a PITA to change won?t last long & it?ll drive sloppy &/or ruin your new bushings if not installed as Hiperfauto shows tightly into good condition round eyelets/rust free/rust proofing coatings intact?
?some years the leading edge of the bushing is chamfered a little to ?ease? installation / ?press in? slightly in theory?
The voids/gaps are 90 degrees the other way on the lower big bushings with an upward facing clocking arrow & are tapered shell?
The torque rods control the back and forth (<?????>) but flex/articulate torsionally & dampen NVH from the engine/trans/driveline U-joint slight pulsations.
The big trailing arm bushings support the weight or the car and dampen NVH from the road surface transmitted thru tires mostly while allowing articulation at all but allow for twist/articulation based on where they?re located in the axle and voids in their design?
Don?t get it wrong/twisted?
Even on rust free cars in good repair with the OE quality parts & tools those only like (or are built) to be pressed in & out gently and carefully with appropriate grease, supporting methods and heat so many times?
?good luck?
Fun fact; even on cool weather cared for 240Turbo-intercooled stick shift cars, the front bushing in the lower arm that seldom wears out will wear out on the passenger side as the years & miles rack up even if everything else is kept tight/tip top/early torque rods with hard compound rubber bushings as it?s always being pushed against with some turbo torque/shock?
?some years the leading edge of the bushing is chamfered a little to ?ease? installation / ?press in? slightly in theory?
The voids/gaps are 90 degrees the other way on the lower big bushings with an upward facing clocking arrow & are tapered shell?
The torque rods control the back and forth (<?????>) but flex/articulate torsionally & dampen NVH from the engine/trans/driveline U-joint slight pulsations.
The big trailing arm bushings support the weight or the car and dampen NVH from the road surface transmitted thru tires mostly while allowing articulation at all but allow for twist/articulation based on where they?re located in the axle and voids in their design?
Don?t get it wrong/twisted?
Even on rust free cars in good repair with the OE quality parts & tools those only like (or are built) to be pressed in & out gently and carefully with appropriate grease, supporting methods and heat so many times?
?good luck?
Fun fact; even on cool weather cared for 240Turbo-intercooled stick shift cars, the front bushing in the lower arm that seldom wears out will wear out on the passenger side as the years & miles rack up even if everything else is kept tight/tip top/early torque rods with hard compound rubber bushings as it?s always being pushed against with some turbo torque/shock?
Last edited:
Decided to remove the torque rods this morning but good thing I check out the hours of the machine shop. They were closed. So this gets revisited on Monday. I may or may not also do the TAB as I have them on hand along with the tool. New inquiry. On the TAB each side has its own part number. I know I have 3 bushings laying around. I remember seeing pics of the bushing showing different configs of the voids. Why are they different and again does it really matter if you have the correct bushing/void on the correct side? Not the orientation but the actual bushing. To be clear I'm talking about the big PIA bushing.
dl242gt
The world of the smiling Dogo
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2002
- Location
- S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
Volvo probably did that to address some kind of noise or vibration on the chassis from the suspension. The bushings I have used are always the same for each side. So you will be fine using the same bushing style for each side.
Volvo also did thing on the same thing with the big front control arm bushing which is different from side to side originally. But everyone uses the same solid busing on each side nowadays.
Volvo also did thing on the same thing with the big front control arm bushing which is different from side to side originally. But everyone uses the same solid busing on each side nowadays.
Well I removed the rods and had the shop remove, rotate and reinstall the bushings. Shop owner was very nice and didn't charge me to fix my mistake. What I did notice before removing the rods was with the voids fore/aft that would still allow the axle to move forward and backward as there would be no resistance in the bushing. All is good.
New question. In my haste to get this car out of my driveway I forgot the measure the diameter of the bushings and out rod. Why? I wanted to perhaps make a pressing tool similar to the "Home Brew TAB" tool. Anyone make something like this and what did you use? Thanks
New question. In my haste to get this car out of my driveway I forgot the measure the diameter of the bushings and out rod. Why? I wanted to perhaps make a pressing tool similar to the "Home Brew TAB" tool. Anyone make something like this and what did you use? Thanks
dl242gt
The world of the smiling Dogo
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2002
- Location
- S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
I forget the tool number but Volvo supplies a drift tool for pressing out the bushings. What they don't supply is the receiver that supports the torque arm and lets the bushing drop into it. I had a machine shop make me the receiver tool a long time ago.
kittysgreyvolvo
Member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2009
Urethane. And synthetic Silicon Grease generously as you press in the urethane bush. You may or may not need to press out the bearing shell.
SuperPro, PowerFlex, Whiteline. Dunno the preference. Can't find the red urethane bushes.
SuperLube silicon grease.
SuperPro, PowerFlex, Whiteline. Dunno the preference. Can't find the red urethane bushes.
SuperLube silicon grease.
dl242gt
The world of the smiling Dogo
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2002
- Location
- S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
For the bushing receiver it's just a metal cylinder. Here are the dimensions.
H 72.80mm
w 75.95mm
Inner diameter 43.07mm
wall thickness 13.96mm
I measured with my calipers so should be close enough to work.
The bushing pushout tool is V2904 or volvo 9992904. I use a helper to hold
the torque arm level while pressing out the bushing.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2002
- Location
- Rockville, MD
The greenbook doesn't have an illustration. It just says to install the bushing with the flat sides parallel to the rod.
This pic is from IPD.
this is the correct orientation.
I tried to look for the drift tool pieces but had no luck. Not listed on the master tool list or probably not available anymore.
So it appears to me that the "Flat sides" are the solid sides of the bushings. The owner of the machine shop that I used was very accommodating. He redid my bushings and didn't charge me.