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Old 05-16-2010, 04:48 PM   #426
volvo78244
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Default M90

I installed the M90 I had laying around for a few years, it was suppossed to be in my 960 sedan but never made it there.

It almost took me a whole day of work (including cleaning some parts and searching for needed parts I misplaced, and other people keeping of my work)
All went pretty well and no adjustments had to be made. I only had to customize the exhaust support. I took the effort in replacing oil, flushing it twice (first flush was so nasty I had to do it again) and replacing seals and using the newer reverse sensor.

It now is much nicer to drive, M46 FTL. It really is worth it!!!
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:14 AM   #427
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I'm using an M90 in my kit car. I'm using a non volvo m/c and I'm having trouble getting the clutch to work properly. Basically I have to have my foot right to the floor and then I can just about change gear, but it's hard. As i know flip all about hydraulic clutches, could this be a problem with the m/c not being big enough or a problem with the slave cylinder? It's a 3/4" m/c, I don't know what the m/c that came with the 960 was. There's no leaking fluid anywhere. I'm using an 850 clutch & flywheel. This is the kind of m/c i'm using, the .75 one

Any ideas on what I can do. FANX
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:33 AM   #428
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Really sure all the air is out of the system?
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:36 AM   #429
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With a brand new clutch using a 740 turbo slave cylinder, mine likes a spacer between the end of the slave and the clutch fork.

Basically it's a socket head capscrew (allen head bolt). the tip of the slave sits in the head of the bolt, the bolt goes through the clutch fork and a nut holds it on the back side of the fork. Basically spaces the clutch fork about 15mm closer to the slave.

Without this, my slave tries to overextend. This might be a function of the R clutch or the fork being bent or the m46 slave not being the same length though.
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:56 PM   #430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Bondo View Post
With a brand new clutch using a 740 turbo slave cylinder, mine likes a spacer between the end of the slave and the clutch fork.

Basically it's a socket head capscrew (allen head bolt). the tip of the slave sits in the head of the bolt, the bolt goes through the clutch fork and a nut holds it on the back side of the fork. Basically spaces the clutch fork about 15mm closer to the slave.
I just bunged a couple of washers between the clutch fork and slave and it now works brilliantly The washers were to see if it worked, your bolt idea sounds good for a permanent fix though! ^___^ You win @ life.
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Old 05-18-2010, 08:33 PM   #431
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Excellent! I think with a new clutch, if all of the other components are not brand new as well, the slave just can't always quite extend far enough.

I've seen it on 740 turbos with all stock components too.
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:35 PM   #432
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Default trouble

After changing from M46 to M90 I'm experiencing a few issues.

All gears work fine, except for third gear, gets in pretty easy but pops out just as easy.
As long as I keep my foot on the throttle no problem, but when I get it off it pops out of gear. I can also feel that when standing still (engine shut off) it doesn't stay in gear and gets back to neutral.

Does anyone know if this can be fixed easily or is my gearbox shot? I really hope not.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:21 AM   #433
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I'm swapping the M90 and the B230 it was born with into an Amazon so it will be going in with the engine 'upright', is this a problem for the M90?

Sorry if this question's a repost, I tried to read the whole thread to make sure it wasn't but there's so much information here my face is twitching.

I haven't found a really good thread on what's to be expected with this engine&box swap so I'll make a photo-heavy one when I'm done. Are there any questions I should be asking apart from running the M90 de-leaned?
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:10 PM   #434
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pretty sure you wont get away with that maybe with the transmission tunnel from a 144
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Old 07-01-2010, 02:28 PM   #435
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maybe with the transmission tunnel from a 144
Making it fit won't be a problem, I want to be sure that using the M90 upright isn't a problem for it, that it won't break, that the gear shifting won't be impossible etc.

Thanks for the 144 tunnel idea though, I hadn't thought of a transplant.
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Old 07-01-2010, 07:49 PM   #436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El~Zilcho View Post
Making it fit won't be a problem, I want to be sure that using the M90 upright isn't a problem for it, that it won't break, that the gear shifting won't be impossible etc.

Thanks for the 144 tunnel idea though, I hadn't thought of a transplant.
Unless you alter the gear linkage it will end up crooked. As to what it will do to the lubrication......
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Old 07-02-2010, 05:45 AM   #437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fivehundred View Post
Unless you alter the gear linkage it will end up crooked. As to what it will do to the lubrication......
Gear linkage is dead easy. You'll need to shorten it about 90mm anyways. You would just clock the shift rod over and weld the aluminum bit on "reclocked" as well.

Lube wouldn't be a problem once it's in but filling it might be tricky, I'm not sure.
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:53 AM   #438
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Thanks Captain! You sound confident about that so I'll take your word for it
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:10 PM   #439
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No prob.

I feel confident that works. My m90 is not tilted as much as yours will be, but it's still about 10 degrees tilted. It's installed in a 240 so I know the drill on the linkage modification.

These transmissions are lubed by the gears slinging oil all over. No sump or oil pickup or whatever. The gears will sling oil all over pretty much regardless of orientation. I've had my M90 fully disassembled multiple times, so this info is first-hand.
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:33 AM   #440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volvo78244 View Post
After changing from M46 to M90 I'm experiencing a few issues.

All gears work fine, except for third gear, gets in pretty easy but pops out just as easy.
As long as I keep my foot on the throttle no problem, but when I get it off it pops out of gear. I can also feel that when standing still (engine shut off) it doesn't stay in gear and gets back to neutral.

Does anyone know if this can be fixed easily or is my gearbox shot? I really hope not.

Thanks for the help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
Have you removed the bolt just visible here (far left, close to the shift rod):
It holds the spring that pushes a ball bearing onto the grooves of the shift rod. That can cause some resistance. I forgot to remove it at first and it gave a slight resistance.
Being the fool that I am, I took the gearbox apart and forgot to reinstall the above mentioned ball, spring and bolt. Then again being as smart as I am, I somehow suddenly remember JW talking about it in this thread and my problem is solved

Since I already bought a parts car I now have a spare M90 :-)
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Old 07-11-2010, 10:25 AM   #441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volvo78244 View Post
Being the fool that I am, I took the gearbox apart and forgot to reinstall the above mentioned ball, spring and bolt. Then again being as smart as I am, I somehow suddenly remember JW talking about it in this thread and my problem is solved

Since I already bought a parts car I now have a spare M90 :-)
NICE! Good to hear that it was a simple fix!
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:49 AM   #442
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I'm about to reinstall mine. I have a new set of seals/gaskets for it. Just wondering if there are any special tools or methods needed to get them installed.
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:05 PM   #443
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I didn't have to use any special tools or technics to install the new seals.
I put on my other gearbox today because my underdrive pulley is broken and I took out the gearbox to be able to get it off. I think the one with the new seals was leaking.
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:13 AM   #444
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Default M90 release fork vs. M47 release fork

Would someone please explain differences between M90 and M47 hydraulic clutch release forks.

I have fork that came with M90 but I have reasons to doubt it is M47 and since you cannot stress enough that only M90 fork must be used, I would need some explanation.
And don't only tell difference is in hole because it could have been made by fitter in order to make the slave cyl adjustable.
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Old 07-30-2010, 02:58 PM   #445
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M90 fork is pretty short. Maybe 20cm? The M46/47 fork is much longer.
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:26 PM   #446
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I've only ever seen the plastic ball cup on an M90 fork, but that's not definitive...and those pics appear to show the plastic cup on what I assume are both types.

We ran an M46 fork for a while by accident. It worked, but the pedal was horribly heavy.

cheers

James
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:22 PM   #447
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What's the code for seal where gear selector goes into M90? Seems same size as M46 but cannot be found on any Vadis drawing.
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Old 08-20-2010, 04:03 AM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanapeer View Post
Seems same size as M46 but cannot be found on any Vadis drawing.
Correct, M46 seal can be used
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Old 08-20-2010, 08:46 AM   #449
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Please have a look here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=214668 should you be looking for an M90 as I'm selling one on ebay (UK). Its the M90L2, has done around 88,000 miles, starting bid is £130.00 with a reserve.

Regards,

Tim.
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Old 08-21-2010, 05:48 PM   #450
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I just finished my install into 245.
I had 2 forks, one with hole and another without. And this was their only difference. Length, brearing mating, pivoting place: all same. They can differ only in pivoting as M90 should have that plastic bushing. Can that bring horrible clutching that people have reported before? IMHO not, unless there is third hyraulic fork type. I used the one with hole and made slave cyl adjustable with threaded bar and nyloc nut.

I went for the M47 modified mount as most usual here in TB and here, although I would have liked the capt. Bondo style. Then again now - after seeing I how steady the setup with M90 gearbox mount is - I am happy. M46 moved and rotated much more with its originial rubber mount. It seemed reasonable to lower the gearbox more than others have done here and I used aluminium spacers found on AW70. With that height it seems that two pieces of propshaft are coincident.

Propshaft came from 940 M47 with its original center support. I will have to take this picture to show my setup there but basically welded 940 support with its piece of sheetmetal to 200 bracket. And bracket is in original 200 place..

Tunnel got quite a lot of smacking. Sadly the place where it needed it most - upper left side of gearbox, where a bolt protrudes - was too strong for our hammer. It has about 5mm on spacing now but as gearbox is almost not moving at all, so it seems OK.

Pedals. The distance between original, cable and new, master cylinder fixing is 10mm. It came as surprise that I needed to mount pedal to higer, luckily existing holes. I didn't like the idea of removing the whole pedal box and manged to take the clutch axle bolt out and put into new place while all the rack was in the car. Needed quite a lot of luck and patience but it was the only way for me as I hate dismantling things that are not directly under work. Clutch pedal is now some 7cm higher as the new placement came as surprise and we didn't have MIG at hand. Lets see if i get used to that.
Also you need different spring. Original hydraulic looks like this but as this came as surprise we modifid original: reversed it to be pushing upward and bent the ends when red hot.

Its fun to do this kind of tuning on volvos because so many things fit between generations of cars. I used 200 gear stick because I like it more. All bushigs below and in the midde are the same. Its good idea to remove the rear gear slider "button" so that muscle memory woudn't use 1st gear instead of rear.
Then again I feel sorry for volvo engineers who were not allowed to change 20-30-40 year old designs.

My clutch: Sachs 940 TD pressure plate + new NK disk that got new Ferodo linings that were told to be better biting. We'll see about that. M90 thrust bearing. Its mating area is different than M47 bearing but again: side by side to M47 bearing/fork did not show difference in height. My hands were too dirty to handle camera. Anybody can confirm that?

Replaced all seals and oil but the info about the gear selector seal came too late.
Also 3rd gear was left original. Lets see if it breaks.
All new cyl's boots.

Also flexible hose is yet to added to clutch hydraulics.

I am surprised how loud it clicks when changing beween gears. Is it my imagination that it should click less than M46?

But basically it seems to be success and lots of building fun.

Last edited by vanapeer; 08-22-2010 at 06:09 AM..
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