studmuffed
Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2017
- Location
- Va
Hey all, I recently took my turbobrick out for my first track session a few weekends back. Before the event, I put new EBC Yellowstuff pads in the front and Bosch metallic pads in the rear. I also did a full flush with DOT4 fluid.
The brick did really well other than some scary brake fade moments. It seemed like the hotter it got, the squishyer the pedal got. I talked to some brake guys and they all had different ideas. Another factor to keep in mind is that the brake bleeder nipples broke off of BOTH front calipers. I figure I can go at this two ways:
Option 1 (expensive)
- R calipers in the front (potentially also in the rear down the line)
- Race compound pads all around
- Stainless brake lines
- RBF 600 fluid
Option 2 (cheap)
- Replace front calipers with set I have on a parts car
- Race compound pads all around
- Stainless brake lines
- RBF 600 fluid
- Air ducting for cooling ?
I really don't want to go back on the track with a good chance of experiencing fade, especially as I start going faster. Is the OEM stuff really good enough?
More car specs:
- 1992 sedan (factory ABS)
- b230+t around 200hp
- 255s on 17x9s
- Brand new master cylinder
- Around 2700lbs without driver
- Top speed on the straight was around 110mph
The brick did really well other than some scary brake fade moments. It seemed like the hotter it got, the squishyer the pedal got. I talked to some brake guys and they all had different ideas. Another factor to keep in mind is that the brake bleeder nipples broke off of BOTH front calipers. I figure I can go at this two ways:
Option 1 (expensive)
- R calipers in the front (potentially also in the rear down the line)
- Race compound pads all around
- Stainless brake lines
- RBF 600 fluid
Option 2 (cheap)
- Replace front calipers with set I have on a parts car
- Race compound pads all around
- Stainless brake lines
- RBF 600 fluid
- Air ducting for cooling ?
I really don't want to go back on the track with a good chance of experiencing fade, especially as I start going faster. Is the OEM stuff really good enough?
More car specs:
- 1992 sedan (factory ABS)
- b230+t around 200hp
- 255s on 17x9s
- Brand new master cylinder
- Around 2700lbs without driver
- Top speed on the straight was around 110mph
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