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Old 09-14-2022, 02:49 PM   #226
linuxman51
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well no good deed goes unpunished lol. the hitch and wiring came off of the v8 in such a short period of time, it fostered false hope that I would not only get everything done, but also get everything done in a fairly expedient manor. Turns out this was a lie. I'm about halfway into getting started on the stereo upgrade stuff now, and will hopefully have that most of the way locked down tonight and tomorrow. :sigh:
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Old 09-15-2022, 10:57 PM   #227
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Your cars sound like old mr potato heads that keep having body parts fall off. But when their faces are on they can kinda run fast.
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Old 09-16-2022, 12:19 AM   #228
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hi bryce.
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Old 09-16-2022, 08:55 AM   #229
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Your cars sound like old mr potato heads that keep having body parts fall off. But when their faces are on they can kinda run fast.
not sure what you're getting at here, but aight... they're all old cars with how ever many hundreds of thousands of miles on them, if that's what you're getting at.

anyway-

death by a thousand cuts continues.. but there is light at the end. blind optimism yields optimistic timelines.. "its only a couple of wires" turns into all the door panels off, front seats out, and every step turning into a mini-project. I *think* though I'm back to reassembly in the front. only stuff in the back is wiring the amps up, hopefully that won't take forever.

Anyway, components are wired up, put the tweeters in the old dash speaker frames (that was a mini-project in it's own right), ran new wiring for the door speakers, got the 6.5's mounted in the front door panels. ohm'd out the rear door speaker wiring, it tested good so I didn't re-run those. Back story time: when I got the car a couple years ago, the stereo didn't power on. so without any trouble shooting what so ever (it was also an old tape head unit. I did keep it, turns out it's not bad) I concluded it needed to be replaced and ordered an apline blue tooth unit and some new door speakers. This worked well for 3/4s of the trip to MM last year, and then it too stopped producing sound (but didn't power off), and hasn't worked consistently since. I tracked the issue down to a short *somewhere* in the speaker wiring, hence running largely new stuff and and ohming things out.

As I've worked on this particular project on this car, it's been like peeling an onion of ****ty modifications.. at some point it had a wireless alarm installed, and instead of using the factory door poppers, captain dip**** wood-screwed some generic popper to the sheet metal in the driver's door, twisted and taped (no crimp no solder, yolo!) wires, and said run n tell dat. I noticed last year when I was installing the alpine that they'd done the same in bypassing the amp wiring.. twisted and taped. I should probably go through the ignition harness as well, I'm sure there's some stupid stuff going on with that, but ya gotta save some fun for later. Anyway, all that to say: this was a decent running and very clean appearing (And still is) car when I got it, but behind the facade there's shenanigans of unknown origins and age, and this is likely the case across the board as these cars continue to age.

I'll get back to the performance stuff before long, but there's other aspects to setting up a good DD than being able to dispatch v6 dodge products at will from stoplights
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Old 09-19-2022, 09:12 AM   #230
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this was a decent running and very clean appearing (And still is) car when I got it, but behind the facade there's shenanigans of unknown origins and age, and this is likely the case across the board as these cars continue to age.
I bought a car that turned out to have a lot of wiring issues like the ones you describe - chopped, twisted and taped ignition wiring, horrendous stereo hacked up wiring, ABS loom chopped, and it just went on and on. Eventually though, I stopped finding dodgy wiring and felt less worried the car would leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere.

You'll get there, even if it doesn't seem like the wiring hacks will ever end. Also thread could do with some more photos ;)
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Old 09-19-2022, 02:24 PM   #231
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I'll get a few in here, I've been head down working the past few weeks and I tend to forget to take pictures when I'm doing that.

Got the stereo in and working, and have found another (new/old) issue during shakedown driving today: my cas does not appear to appreciate heat. this was an issue with the sensor it replaced as well, which has me now wondering what's really going on (although the underhood temps are pretty toasty if I dare say so myself), perhaps there's a subtle difference in mounting depth between the 8v and 16v heads or something, and I'm actually just pushing on the sensors and wiping them.. I'll have to see.

Anyway, car acted like it had some sort of other issue initially and sent me down the wrong path, but I did narrow it down. Since I was out and about on this shakedown run, it took a little while to limp it home.. driving for a bit, letting it sit, drive a bit, let it sit. I'll be installing the yoshifab unit this evening (or just later this afternoon after the car has cooled off some), hopefully his is a bit better than my cobbled together adapter that I made a while ago. Nothing like stranding you on the road excitement three days before a 350 mile trip!
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Old 09-19-2022, 07:32 PM   #232
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I know my engine bay feels significantly more toasty with the angled flange and 3“ dp. I was considering building a heat shield around the pipe, at least near the ac drier because ac performance seems to have dipped since the new turbo.
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Old 09-19-2022, 07:36 PM   #233
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I know my engine bay feels significantly more toasty with the angled flange and 3“ dp. I was considering building a heat shield around the pipe, at least near the ac drier because ac performance seems to have dipped since the new turbo.
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Old 09-19-2022, 09:16 PM   #234
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Old 09-19-2022, 09:22 PM   #235
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What is that, cerakote with microbeads in it? I do have access to a commercial powder coat oven
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Old 09-20-2022, 08:19 AM   #236
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so the problem was a bit less insidious than heat (but more destructive)

Turns out when I was cleaning up my old adapter and putting the new CAS's in there (I've had issues with two now running my old driveway cobbled adapter) I lost the install depth and bolting it down all the way flush was apparently causing a thrust load on the cas, pushing the trigger disc into the photo sensor. I reckon that's what I get for not verifying install depth


so I went ahead and installed the yoshifab unit, reset base timing, and let the car idle halfway into the shop with a/c on full blast to get the underhood heat going. I'll be driving it around a fair bit today as well to see if it's going to act up or not. fingers crossed. I'll be robbing the cas off the blue car to have another hot spare that I hopefully won't need since the damn things are once again unobtanium.



also did the r&r on the trailer yesterday, so if the shakedowns go well from here it should be fairly smooth sailing.
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Old 09-20-2022, 12:28 PM   #237
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drove across town this morning, no issues at all. gotta couple little things to tidy up over the next 24 hours, but things appear to finally be coming into shape.
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Old 09-20-2022, 08:22 PM   #238
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ended up driving the car all around town today without any issues. did the first flush in the driveway at lunch time, and the coolant temps in traffic came down what looks to be 10 degrees.

If my new radiator doesn't get here in time tomorrow, I'll just toss a bit of antifreeze in there and put the spare parts on the trailer just in case.
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Old 09-20-2022, 09:26 PM   #239
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Excellent
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Old 09-26-2022, 08:51 AM   #240
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Well the trip was not without its challenges, although I'm happy to report no *outright* mechanical failures (of course, I suppose that's subjective lol). The trailer was a little heavier than I thought it would be, so the car got about two years' worth of in-boost run time on the way up and back with a brief reprieve of "oh **** we're in the mountains with a trailer and have no boost" high rpm jaunt to get it to the lodge.

So, problems: Cooling system is inadequate, on the way up once we hit around 1pm (hotest part of the day) we could no longer run the a/c without the needle starting to head the wrong way. drat. when we stopped for our second fuel stop (and last leg of the trip) I turned the boost down to wastegate pressure, because modulating the 15 or so psi it was set to run had become tedious and I did not want to blow out overdrive. I should have done that at the first fuel stop, it changed the entire driving dynamic. About 25 or 30 miles into the mountains (And about 35 miles from the lodge) going up about a 7% grade I found the car suddenly not accelerating but rather decelerating at WOT. look down, no boost. Briefly thought the engine had died (possibly literally but more figuratively/sensor-ly) but no lights were on. pulled off immediately to a scenic overlook and was hoping to find an intercooler coupler had blown off.
Instead it was the wastegate. while technically still in the chat, it had two legs out the door and was flapping in the proverbial wind hanging by the pin and the vacuum line. so I put an extra zip tie on the vacuum line to keep it up and out of the power steering belt, and put it on the short list to fix at the lodge.

Oh yeah, and at the second fuel stop I had what I thought was a ignition switch problem, that turned out to go back to the issue with the battery cable I'd put down as not as important as it seemed (newsflash, it was. shoulda fixed that one at the house, oh well), ended up having to start the car with a trusty screwdriver and pop the shift lock by hand.

back to the no boost thing. I'd already been talking to matt about the car's distinct lack of torque in or out of boost below 3500 and esp 3000 rpms. Turns out, when you have no boost, and atmospheric pressure is 10kpa lower than what you're used to.. this problem gets much bigger. going uphill with a trailer in tow, the car will not accelerate at all (or even hold speed) in 2nd gear below around 4000, and certainly not below 3500. fun fact: it has to slow down more than one would think to force it back into 1st so you can wind it on up to the moon to make the grade.

the ~5 or so psi it makes on the gate make *all* the difference in that regard, while no drag car by any measure, there was almost no struggle on the way home even with +1 passenger and his stuff. we might have been a little lighter, but I don't think we were more than a couple hundred pounds lighter.

So I've got a new list of things to tackle on the car, between the cam and the lock up transmission it was more load than I'd normally like to see but in general the car handled it well. the only oil lost on the trip is whatever oozed out of the front distributor boss (popped the cap to see if it had the 'good' aux shaft, it doesn't. now it leaks oil there a little bit) and the back corner of the valve cover and breather. fuel economy was pretty bad, and the cooling system issues are concerning a bit, but the car probably spent a solid 4 hours in boost friday and about the same yesterday on the way home (where I really leaned on it to get the trip over and done with). with boost, it was turning in roughly 14mpg towing (no tuning until the gate fell off), without the boost I'm going to guess it was somewhere around 8 or 9, because that pulled the average down from 14 to roughly 11. high rpm, low speed=poor economy, who knew?

anyway, I got the new radiator sitting here, I'll go ahead and install that for the time being and start figuring out how to actually improve cooling system capacity and performance, which might require a re-design of the intercooler and other things. The state of the tune needs addressed as well-while the car did perform this weekend, it should be noted that even when it was boarderline overheating, jaunts to full boost (15psi) did not result in any kind of knocking, so I've clearly pulled too much timing out lol.
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Old 09-26-2022, 09:24 AM   #241
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For the displacement I think the 940s have a pretty large radiator. Maybe the radiator is all scaled up.

I'd try to add some ducting around the ic and a fresh fill with some HOAT coolant to help prevent build up in the new radiator. Hopefully the new rad is the same size core, I've found that a lot of aftermarket rads have thinner cores than OEM
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Old 09-26-2022, 10:15 AM   #242
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it's a 91, so basically the old 740 radiator, not the larger later radiator (Which is a possibility if I change intercooler as well. I did keep the unmodified 940 e-fan shroud)
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Old 09-27-2022, 11:44 AM   #243
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How big of a trailer were you pulling? I have had the same problem with an otherwise good functioning cooling system. If you start trying to tow up a steep grade especially at high altitude, I could never keep the engine cool. Air density is down at high altitude. Which also means it doesn't pull heat from a radiator as effectively.

I just gave up trying to tow anything too heavy with the Volvo. But I do like the idea.
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Old 09-27-2022, 11:59 AM   #244
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not sure on the weight, it's a 6.5x12 single axle (not all that heavy, the golf cart moves it around fairly well empty, but I'm sure it's not a feather either), not sure how much weight we put on it, but it wasn't full full or anything.
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Old 10-25-2022, 08:13 AM   #245
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So month of october roundup: got back on the dyno the other day, mostly just disappointment and confirmation of cam/crank timing issue.
I did finally get around to hooking up the boost control solenoid, and in open loop mode it's working very well.. got rid of my big boost spikes, and also boost by tps is nice.

The downside to that? well, now torque and hp match (lol), and are very low for the setup.


I should've paid a little more attention when I swapped the cam in to the T cam being a little down relative to what it felt like before the hg/cam swap/etc but I was ready to move on.
A closer inspection of the timing setup (unscientific) does seem to indicate it's off. I'll get into all of that sometime in november (Gonna order a cam gear, may order a whole round tooth conversion setup in preparation for what's to come to at least one of the cars). The car drives ok, not very red-blocky though if I'm honest, it's not the dog it kind of looks like it would be, it's very... NA feeling?

Another amusing note: the cam comparison was done at around 15-16psi, the numbers here recently are at 18-19psi, so adding boost has not resulted in any kind of noticeable uptick in power or torque (green line is mbc, the others are ebc.. green spiked 23-24psi and dropped back to ~17.5 or so, getting only 20 ft/lbs for a 6psi uptick is decidedly anti-8v lmao). I'd suspect a boost leak and will probably test all of that just to be sure, but it spools fast, hits hard, and otherwise doesn't have the usual hallmarks a decent boost leak gives you with the possible exception of the lack of torque. it doesn't feel lazy throughout or drop off up top (Also, not too many places to leak on this system for better or worse, cbv and idle hoses). Ah well.

So anyway, aside from maybe the kl-racing 8v intake test, where do we go from here? contemplating various swaps, or who knows, may get the kinks ironed out and be less inclined to jump ship.
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Old 11-10-2022, 11:39 PM   #246
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surprise surprise the car hasn't fixed itself (I didn't expect it to, but I've also been too busy to really spend any QT with it other than the daily kid shuttle), but I think I've found a bit of a way forward that will drive interest and motivation and free me up a little to play with more things..

the blue 242 has a very similar (basically, identical) setup in it, and she needs some love. the car, not the engine. the engine is fine for the moment. I'm not realistically going to get the gold car back together any time soon if ever (more towards the ever than the soon), as working on it would take time away from the eventual wagon swap.. I just haven't had the firm jump-off point to get that ball rolling. So I'm going to throw everything up the air and shake it around:
blue 242's engine is going to come out and go in the 940 (b23f+t or ft, no idea, haven't had the head off, whatever). basically a drop in replacement for the somewhat tired and now non-performing for other reasons b230ft. Ipd turbo cam, etc. should be a swap and go affair with a brief respite to address some oil leaks. The 3076r will not be going in the 940 (yet), I still have faith the k24 can do what I want the car to do. This will give me an opportunity to test that. I will of course make sure the 242 is still making the numbers it should first, but look for that swap to happen sooner rather than later.

the 242 in turn will get some love under hood and behind the dash (heater core/hoses that are leaking will be fixed, I'm going to swap in the late model a/c components I've got for it, that sort of thing that's easier with no engine in the way), and then I'm going to plop the 16v out of goldie in there along with one of the other 16v intake manifolds I've got (And the 3076r on a 90+ exhaust manifold). Since I've basically been running it on e85 24/7 anyway, it shouldn't be a big problem, just a big drop in power and target boost, but oughta be a real fun setup, which was the point of the 242 all along. I'd like to be able to drive it, so it needs heat and a/c (working). moving back to goldie, since it's more or less a drive train and a shifter, and the th400 has been on the bench for almost 2 years, there's not a whole lot to take out of the car. the holset, intake, and those acoutrements will get shuffled onto the shelf, and I'll start actively planning the next stroker engine to go in the eventual drag wagon (Along with getting the wagon in the shop and stripping it down and starting on cage, etc).

This leaves the v8 wagon as the oddball out... it's going to get some love at some point soon as well, as it's entirely too fun to leave on the sidelines the way I have.
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