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240 Front control arms

BeaverMeat

Active member
Joined
Aug 8, 2020
Location
Vancouver Island
I know you can box the OE ones? but, wondering if there is any taxi/police type control arms available to save some time.

What would to part number be?
 
You would have to find rare nos oem boxed arms which won't be cheap if you can even find any. There are two good choices to buy the plates to weld on. Yoshifab and Bad Decision Works both sell plates cut and ready to weld on to your stock arms.

A local welding shop should be able to do this for a reasonable fee if you don't weld.
 

Yeah? $411 plus the extra costs for the convenience vs. Buying a used set from a wrecker and welding in plates? oh, pressing in new bushings. Hmmm. I smell a project… refurbishing used suspension parts.

Wonder if polys are worth it… I have BNE dynamics conical axle bushings and hybrid torque rods at the rear. I suppose I should refurbish the trailing arms too.

The driver control arm front bushing is toast so I might as well do everything now FFS
 
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If you are going for sporting handling. I'd recommend looking at the STS Delrin bushings for the front suspension. Not a cheap option but I think they are more durable and precise than having the poly.

My one complaint about the poly is that they don't do well with the heat from the exhaust on the right side. The big bushing tends to melt and fall apart after a few years. Even with the stock heat shield on the rear control arm mount.
 
This just arrived today from BDW. Looking forward to welding them on.
I liked the stamped out circles which will let me get paint inside the control
arm and trailing arm easy. Plus they just look great.
 

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RIP your strut towers and frame rails

Get reinforcement plates.
 
I've used the strut tower plates for 20 years. I just recently installed BNE upper strut mounts and removed the Volvo plates. No need for them when looking at how thick the BNE mounts are and my strut tower brace also has a plate on it. Rock on.
 
I've used the strut tower plates for 20 years. I just recently installed BNE upper strut mounts and removed the Volvo plates. No need for them when looking at how thick the BNE mounts are and my strut tower brace also has a plate on it. Rock on.

Is shipping reasonable on bad decision works parts?
 
Of course Yoshifabs plates are just fine. However, when I saw these I wanted to use them. It's not just a bunch of holes. If you look carefully the holes have a ridge around them. This makes the piece less flexible and the holes make it easier to get paint in the nooks and crannies on the suspension parts. Sort of like how the stamping for floors get a ridge in them for strength.
 
Always viewed them as a fuse.
With stiffer LCAs a simple crub can go from replacing a LCA to needing a frame machine quick.
If you taco one, then think about reinforcement.
 
It turns out the front control arm had a loose nut so I guess this project go on the back burner until I convert the suspension to coilovers.

Always viewed them as a fuse.
With stiffer LCAs a simple crub can go from replacing a LCA to needing a frame machine quick.
If you taco one, then think about reinforcement.

I thought about that. I?d get the Yoshi plates for the front and cut off some of it ? la OE police/cabby style.

http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/93291311.jpg
 
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