Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S - Page 7

Coupid · 12-06-2015, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

Did you put a little dab of silicone grease on the follower, and oil the bronze bushing on the bottom of the dizzy tower?

No, but now I will! Thanks Ken

NO_SPRK · 12-06-2015, 11:45 PM

Now this situation will teach you when it's time to adjust the points. If before the mileage interval you will feel a change in power.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid

No, but now I will! Thanks Ken

Redwood Chair · 12-06-2015, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid

No, but now I will! Thanks Ken

A matchbook cover was the old school side of the road 'feeler' gauge, that's if you can find book matches anymore...

There should be a little barrel at the bottom of the dizzy, turn that till the hole in it points up and drizzle some oil in there to lubricate the bushing at the bottom of the shaft.

hiperfauto · 12-06-2015, 11:55 PM

You should also put a drop or two of oil on the felt wick under the rotor to lubricate the advance mechanism.

Coupid · 12-13-2015, 10:36 PM

With the 5x8 rear springs the Kaplhenke perches were as set as low as possible. It looked great, but wasn't that practical since I could only lower the car further since the perches were screwed all the way down. With the 16x8 rear wheels even with the fenders rolled the car rubbed over uneven roads. The 5x11 springs I just ordered are a much better fit for the car. One side showed up today and I put it on to test the height. I can lower the perches all the way down so the body rests on the wheel (which I don't want) and raise them up so there is a few inches of fender gap. Much better!

240keith · 12-13-2015, 11:04 PM

sooo much gap .... just kidding - looking good Colin! nice to hear you got the ignition dialed in.

Coupid · 12-13-2015, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240keith

sooo much gap .... just kidding - looking good Colin! nice to hear you got the ignition dialed in.

Hahaha the car could be raised up another 2" from where it's set in these photos, then it would have some fender gap.

Coupid · 12-16-2015, 01:09 AM

Okay I'll preface this with I know a few people on here told me to avoid the IPD header with their Weber setup. The other day I was looking at the crack in my exhaust manifold and noticed it had grown a lot. The previous owner tried to weld the crack which obviously doesn't work well.

I went ahead and ordered the IPD header and started fitting it last night. Initially I bolted it in place and then tried to fit the intake manifold. It wouldn't go on no matter what I did so I tried putting the intake on first. That didn't work either so I took a step back to see what was going on.

After a little searching and feeling, I saw that the intake was running into the exhaust manifold flange on the underside of the head.

Today I ground a small amount of material off the intake and they slipped together easily. I've emailed IPD to see if this has happened to others and we will see what they say.

With that behind me I can't wait to take it out and see how it sounds. Also looking forward to driving without worrying about that massive crack lol.

NO_SPRK · 12-16-2015, 01:15 AM

I told you I had a manifold

But now that you have a 4into1 header it will sound great. The engine will want to rev a little quicker and your power range will be in higher RPMs

If you dont have a overdrive it's actually a good setup. The header is designed for more top end performance. I got 23mpg driving 65-75 to portland with another 250lbs guy using the same setup. I recommend 2 inch piping for usable power. Your stock engine doesn't need 2.250 or 2.5 with a single weber

When you want more power just upgrade to a weber 38dges it's like the progressive but both barrels are matched in size and fueling (both barrels open in sync)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid

Okay I'll preface this with I know a few people on here told me to avoid the IPD header with their Weber setup. The other day I was looking at the crack in my exhaust manifold and noticed it had grown a lot. The previous owner tried to weld the crack which obviously doesn't work well.

Coupid · 12-16-2015, 01:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NO_SPRK

I told you I had a manifold

But now that you have a 4into1 header it will sound great. The engine will want to rev a little quicker and your power range will be in higher RPMs

If you dont have a overdrive it's actually a good setup. The header is designed for more top end performance. I got 23mpg driving 65-75 to portland with another 250lbs guy using the same setup. I recommend 2 inch piping for usable power. Your stock engine doesn't need 2.250 or 2.5 with a single weber

When you want more power just upgrade to a weber 38dges it's like the progressive but both barrels are matched in size and fueling (both barrels open in sync)

Damn, yes you did! I completely forgot that. I still have that rear sway bar if you're interested.

The car doesn't have overdrive.

I was able to easily connect it to the stock exhaust where the cat should be. I think this should keep me satisfied for a while but I'll keep that 38dges recommendation for when I decided I need to get more power.

I fired it up in the garage and it sounds about the same as it did at idle. Since it was like 8:30 I figured I'd keep the revving to a minimum so I didn't upset the neighbors.

Can't wait to get it out this weekend so I can see how it drives with the taller springs and I can hear the new header! I'm going to install a tach so I can have a better idea of what the engine is doing. (if I install the tach I'll be a lot less likely to buy that gorgeous 140GT cluster that hiperfauto is selling)

Jack · 12-16-2015, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid

Anyone know where I can get one of these?

still looking for one? I got one in "decent shape"

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid

The mystery exhaust showed up and it exceeded my expectations:

love Anza mufflers - I have one on my 245 and it sounds great

great progress on the car! Inspiring me to update my thread and start working on it too

Johann · 12-16-2015, 05:21 PM

To bad those Anza's only last for several hours in harsh environment..

Jack · 12-16-2015, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johann

To bad those Anza's only last for several hours in harsh environment..

you know nothing about volvos Johann

secretly drools over your shop and volvos and volvo powered opel

Coupid · 12-17-2015, 01:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jack

still looking for one? I got one in "decent shape"

love Anza mufflers - I have one on my 245 and it sounds great

great progress on the car! Inspiring me to update my thread and start working on it too

Thanks Jack! Yeah I found one in decent shape a few months ago.

Coupid · 12-20-2015, 06:52 PM

Yesterday I followed this paint restoration tutorial:

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2...e-stage-paint/

and went to town with the different Meguiars, cleaning wax, polish and show car glaze they recommend.

Besides having a really sore shoulder today, it came out really well. The oxidation is gone and the paint has a nice warm shine.

I took it to cars and coffee this morning. First time driving on the taller springs and with the header. Both are nice improvements and the car got a lot of interest from the "oh my old professor used to have one of those back in the day" crowd. It was an absolute blast!

Coupid · 12-22-2015, 09:35 PM

Finally got around to installing a tach that I purchased a few months ago. When I bought it I thought it was a 52mm face but I was wrong. Since it's a lot larger than I would have liked I just mounted it with double sided tape under the dash.

It will be great to known for sure where the idle is set and then what the engine speeds are on the freeway! Then I can save my pennies for something more period correct or an r-sport cluster.

Coupid · 12-23-2015, 05:34 PM

Thanks to the new tach I was able to confirm that the car was idling really high. It sounded like it was high but today I saw it was at 1200rpm. Since I did the initial carb tuning with the timing and points all out of wack, the carb needed to be readjusted.

I had bumped the primary idle jet up to a 65 and today I ended up dropping down to a 45. now the idle is around 800rpm! Learning is fun!

I took a little drive to celebrate:

cwdodson88 · 12-23-2015, 05:36 PM

good looking car!

V-O-L-V-O · 12-23-2015, 06:27 PM

Stance is sooo cool in that picture!

Coupid · 12-23-2015, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwdodson88

good looking car!

Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by V-O-L-V-O

Stance is sooo cool in that picture!

The road is a little downhill so it accentuates the rack a little bit.

240keith · 12-24-2015, 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid

I took a little drive to celebrate:

that looks dead on man!

LloydDobler · 12-24-2015, 10:51 AM

Looking good!

Also the proper way to adjust points is to unscrew them, throw them in the trash and install electronic ignition. Thank me later.

NO_SPRK · 12-24-2015, 11:36 AM

That picture gave me a chubby!

Lookin good

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coupid

Thanks to the new tach I was able to confirm that the car was idling really high. It sounded like it was high but today I saw it was at 1200rpm. Since I did the initial carb tuning with the timing and points all out of wack, the carb needed to be readjusted.

I had bumped the primary idle jet up to a 65 and today I ended up dropping down to a 45. now the idle is around 800rpm! Learning is fun!

I took a little drive to celebrate:

hahah don't let ken read that! But I agree with you!

Quote:

Originally Posted by LloydDobler

Looking good!

Also the proper way to adjust points is to unscrew them, throw them in the trash and install electronic ignition. Thank me later.

Coupid · 12-24-2015, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240keith

that looks dead on man!

Thanks Keith! It's come a long way since you rode in it last.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LloydDobler

Looking good!

Also the proper way to adjust points is to unscrew them, throw them in the trash and install electronic ignition. Thank me later.

I was really tempted to do just that but I decided to keep trying with the points. Now that they are properly gapped, they work well. If they go out of adjustment again soon then I might get the pertronix.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NO_SPRK

That picture gave me a chubby!

Lookin good

hahah don't let ken read that! But I agree with you!

Thanks man

Tfrasca · 01-04-2016, 09:58 PM

This car looks great!

12-06-2015, 11:55 PM	#154
hiperfauto The Librarian Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: So Cal	You should also put a drop or two of oil on the felt wick under the rotor to lubricate the advance mechanism. __________________ 240 Alcantara Shift Boot Cover (164 & 72- 140 too) Rare, Race & R-Sports Parts Colored B/S Brake Hoses 140/160 and more Volvo Advertising Stuff -

12-23-2015, 06:27 PM	#169
V-O-L-V-O Board Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Gothenburg-Sweden	Stance is sooo cool in that picture! __________________ 64 PV 11234E SPORT 65 PV 11134F 65 Amazon 13134 VE 72 145 SPORT 74 144GL 1444941 A

12-24-2015, 10:51 AM	#172
LloydDobler Board Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: PDX	Looking good! Also the proper way to adjust points is to unscrew them, throw them in the trash and install electronic ignition. Thank me later. __________________ '66 122 - Collectible project '06 V70 2.5T - Mostly Stock Daily Driver '03 C70 T5M - Modded summer fun car '05 V50 T5 AWD - Daughter's first car

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

12-13-2015, 10:36 PM	#155
Coupid Board Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Santa Barbara, CA	With the 5x8 rear springs the Kaplhenke perches were as set as low as possible. It looked great, but wasn't that practical since I could only lower the car further since the perches were screwed all the way down. With the 16x8 rear wheels even with the fenders rolled the car rubbed over uneven roads. The 5x11 springs I just ordered are a much better fit for the car. One side showed up today and I put it on to test the height. I can lower the perches all the way down so the body rests on the wheel (which I don't want) and raise them up so there is a few inches of fender gap. Much better!

12-16-2015, 01:09 AM	#158
Coupid Board Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Santa Barbara, CA	Okay I'll preface this with I know a few people on here told me to avoid the IPD header with their Weber setup. The other day I was looking at the crack in my exhaust manifold and noticed it had grown a lot. The previous owner tried to weld the crack which obviously doesn't work well. I went ahead and ordered the IPD header and started fitting it last night. Initially I bolted it in place and then tried to fit the intake manifold. It wouldn't go on no matter what I did so I tried putting the intake on first. That didn't work either so I took a step back to see what was going on. After a little searching and feeling, I saw that the intake was running into the exhaust manifold flange on the underside of the head. Today I ground a small amount of material off the intake and they slipped together easily. I've emailed IPD to see if this has happened to others and we will see what they say. With that behind me I can't wait to take it out and see how it sounds. Also looking forward to driving without worrying about that massive crack lol.

12-16-2015, 05:21 PM	#162
Johann Board Member Join Date: Aug 2006	To bad those Anza's only last for several hours in harsh environment..

12-20-2015, 06:52 PM	#165
Coupid Board Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Santa Barbara, CA	Yesterday I followed this paint restoration tutorial: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2...e-stage-paint/ and went to town with the different Meguiars, cleaning wax, polish and show car glaze they recommend. Besides having a really sore shoulder today, it came out really well. The oxidation is gone and the paint has a nice warm shine. I took it to cars and coffee this morning. First time driving on the taller springs and with the header. Both are nice improvements and the car got a lot of interest from the "oh my old professor used to have one of those back in the day" crowd. It was an absolute blast!

12-22-2015, 09:35 PM	#166
Coupid Board Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Santa Barbara, CA	Finally got around to installing a tach that I purchased a few months ago. When I bought it I thought it was a 52mm face but I was wrong. Since it's a lot larger than I would have liked I just mounted it with double sided tape under the dash. It will be great to known for sure where the idle is set and then what the engine speeds are on the freeway! Then I can save my pennies for something more period correct or an r-sport cluster.

12-23-2015, 05:34 PM	#167
Coupid Board Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Santa Barbara, CA	Thanks to the new tach I was able to confirm that the car was idling really high. It sounded like it was high but today I saw it was at 1200rpm. Since I did the initial carb tuning with the timing and points all out of wack, the carb needed to be readjusted. I had bumped the primary idle jet up to a 65 and today I ended up dropping down to a 45. now the idle is around 800rpm! Learning is fun! I took a little drive to celebrate:

01-04-2016, 09:58 PM	#175
Tfrasca Board Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Ben Lomond, CA	This car looks great!