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Old 03-10-2008, 10:07 PM   #1
94teggy
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Default LH 2.2 to EZK117 - My article addendum

So after searching and reading what seemed like hundreds of threads I felt like once I got done with this conversion I'd like to combine all the EZK info into one step by step source. So without further adieu this is an addendum to the official article:

This was done on a 1988 240DL with a B230F and LH2.2 I am going to be +Ting this car so I did this with 541 ECU and a 012 EZK computers. If you are going to be staying NA, you will have to figure out the right ECU/ICU combo...sorry I don't know those but there are plenty of very knowledgeable people here who can point you in the right direction. I take no responsibility for what happens to you or your car while attempting this project and I suggest you familiarize yourself with the existing EZK article HERE

Chapter 1: Preparing for the task

Ok, so to preface this make sure you have adequate soldering skills please. In my opinion something as important as this is something that you do NOT want to use crimp connectors and the like on. So go to the store, get a soldering gun and solder and practice before you do this.

Checklist:
1 - Soldering gun
2 - Solder
3 - Electrical tape and/or heat-shrink tubing
4 - Wire (I bought a 30ft roll of 16 gauge for $5ish)
5 - Wire strippers or scissors
6 - Razor blade or sharp knife
7 - EZK harness from the appropriate donor vehicle
8 - 541 ECU (this is for turbo or +T applications)
9 - 012 EZK (this is for turbo or +T applications)
10 - Powerstage
11 - 004 distributor (this is what worked for me)
12 - 007 AMM (not sure if this matters but again it worked for me.
13 - Knock sensor from donor car (don't forget the bolt that holds it to the engine)
14 - Assorted connectors (you can get by without them but they help)

Chapter 2: Cleaning up the harness
This is kind of a chore because there's so many wires going all over the place but if you take your time and use the "check twice cut once" rule you'll be just fine.

I'm going to steal some pics from holtzboy's thread for this part because I have none of my own of the harness.



...that's pretty much what your harness should look like after you remove it from the donor car...a big mess.

You only need to keep a grand total of 10 wires coming from the EZK connector and their appropriate connectors:
solid blue
thick gray
brown
orange
thick black
thick green
gray/yellow stripe
black/red stripe
yellow
yellow/red stripe


Now after cleaning up your harness it should look something like this



Chapter 3: Putting the harness into the car
What I did was take that little razor or knife I told you to get and cut from the outside edge straight in to the inside hole of the existing grommet in the passenger side firewall that your ECU harness runs through and then carefully remove the grommet and set it aside. Now you have a nice hole to feed your connectors through. I would suggest having a helper for this part so it'll be less frustrating for you. Have he/she stand outside the car and grab the connectors and wires as you push them through the firewall from inside the car into the engine bay. You need to push 7 of the 10 wires through the firewall into the engine bay and they are:

solid blue
thick gray
brown
orange
gray/yellow stripe
thick black
thick green

Keep the black/red stripe, yellow, and yellow/red stripe inside the car.

Chapter 4: What these 7 wires go to
solid blue (positive terminal on coil)
thick gray (powerstage connector)
brown (powerstage connector, EZK, and ground)
orange (connector under intake)
gray/yellow stripe (connector under intake)
thick black (hall sensor on distributor)
thick green (knock sensor on side of block under intake)

Chapter 5: The powerstage
So you have a fat connector that the thick gray wire from the harness goes to. This is the connector for the powerstage. The brown wire coming from the powerstage connector needs to connect to the brown wire coming from the EZK connector(if it is not already connected). Then you want to ground a wire and tee this grounded wire into the aforementioned brown wire that goes from the powerstage connector to the EZK connector. Then you will notice that you have 3 more wires coming from the powerstage connector itself: blue and 2 white/red stripe (one thicker than the other). Connect the blue wire to the positive terminal on your coil. Connect the thick white/red stripe wire to the negative terminal on your coil. Finally connect the thin white/red stripe wire to the white/red stripe wire that goes to your tach.

Now is also a good time to take the solid blue wire coming from the EZK harness (should be same color as the one from the powerstage connector) and connect it to the positive terminal on the coil as well.

So to recap we have blue from main EZK connector and blue from powerstage connector to the positive terminal on the coil. We have thick white/red stripe connected to negative terminal on the coil and thin white/red stripe connected to the tach wire. Finally, a brown wire going from the powerstage connector to the EZK connector with a grounded wire teed into it.

Chapter 6: Swimming under the intake manifold
Get your snorkels on because we're going swimming for a little, 2 wire, black connector located under the intake manifold. It should have an orange wire and a gray wire in it. Once you find it, unplug it and cut off the connector with the MALE spade terminals in them making sure to leave yourself enough wire to solder. Now you will most likely have to extend both the gray/yellow stripe and orange wires coming from your EZK harness and then connect them to their respective gray and orange wire mates from the small connector you just removed. Now plug the connector back in to its female half under the intake manifold.

Here's a pic of said connector:


...to give you an idea of it's location that connector you see in the lower right is the connector to the IAC.

Chapter 7: Hall Sensor
Unplug connector on hall sensor on distributor, take the thick black wire with 3 prong connector coming from your EZK harness, and plug this connector in. Done.

Chapter 8: Knock, knock...who's there
Get your snorkel back on and start digging under the intake manifold again. Unplug and then unscrew the old knock sensor from the block. Now take your new knock sensor from the donor car and it's respective mounting bolt and bolt it into the hole you just opened up in the block. Now connect the fat green wire from the EZK harness with 2 prong connector to the knock sensor you just bolted on. Done.

Chapter 9: ECU/EZK communication
You need to open up the connectors of both the EZK and ECU harnesses. They are held together with 3 little screws. Once inside you need to track down the yellow/red stripe wire that is in the EZK harness. Take a precision screwdriver and remove the pin from the EZK harness connector that this wire goes to. If you must cut the wire to extend it try and keep as much of the wire as you can to make soldering the extension easier. But keep the little pin no matter what. Take this pin with wire (extended if you had to) and connect it to the yellow wire coming from your EZK harness. Now insert this pin into pin slot number 24 of your ECU harness connector which should have nothing in it. Now take the black/red wire coming from the EZK harness and connect it to pin 12 of the ECU harness.

Chapter 10: Wrapping up
After verifying that everything is connected right and the car starts and runs. Take your electrical tape and loom up the wires to make everything tidy and factory looking. Take your grommet that you removed and place it back where you got it. Most likely it will not go/stay in the existing hole so I just siliconed it to the firewall to make an air/water tight seal.

I hope this is helpful to those looking to do this conversion. This will hopefully make it a painless and easy conversion for all to do. If you think I need to add something, skipped something, messed something up, or whatever please, please do not hesitate to let me know so I can change it....because I didn't do this for my pride, I did it so everyone can have a step-by-step guide for this conversion.

Last but definitely not least, thanks to all those who helped me with this and to Nick for his original thread....it's a great resource so please it.

Cheers and enjoy!

Last edited by 94teggy; 02-10-2009 at 04:08 PM..
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Old 04-26-2008, 04:53 PM   #2
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Special thanks to Jeh for pm'ing me this wiring diagram he made up. Just another example to give you an idea of which wires go from EZK pins to different sensors and connectors.



Thanks Jeh!

Last edited by 94teggy; 05-24-2008 at 06:05 PM..
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:03 PM   #3
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Sorry to dig this up...
I'm tired and i'm not sure I'm reading this right.
Is this using a 2.2 harness and using 2.4 ignition and fuel computers?
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:13 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by boostin'xr4 View Post
Sorry to dig this up...
I'm tired and i'm not sure I'm reading this right.
Is this using a 2.2 harness and using 2.4 ignition and fuel computers?
I'm confused as well...seems to be a 2.2 car and definitely 2.2 turbo boxes.
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:21 PM   #5
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correct.
Its to turn a 85-87 240 chrysler ignition to ezk ignition. if your going turbo you need the turbo ecu also, and there is a extra wire to hook up but its nothing really. easy swap.
this is a great swap for turbo or NA.
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:02 AM   #6
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Thanks. Helps a lot!
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:03 AM   #7
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Just to clarify, the brown wire coming from EZK does NOT goto the Idle Air Control motor. The brown wire from EZK splits but both are grounded so you can either ground them both or splice them together and ground it once. The brown wire on the Idle Air Control motor is a hot 12v source and will definately not make the EZK box or Powerstage happy.
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Old 05-22-2008, 12:02 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by holtzboy View Post
Just to clarify, the brown wire coming from EZK does NOT goto the Idle Air Control motor. The brown wire from EZK splits but both are grounded so you can either ground them both or splice them together and ground it once. The brown wire on the Idle Air Control motor is a hot 12v source and will definately not make the EZK box or Powerstage happy.
That's odd because mine is definitely running from the powerstage to where the brown wire in the IAC connector was and my car has been running just fine that way since Rvolvor pointed me in the right direction about halfway through this thread HERE. I ran it NA like that and then +T'd it and it ran fine during both. The only issue I had was the powerstage was not in an optimal location to get proper cooling and they kept frying due to overheating so I relocated my powerstage to the correct location and it's been fine since. Maybe someone can chime in here but it's giving me no problems at all.
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:06 AM   #9
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So does anyone with an LH2.2 turbo 740 want to trace some wires for us.

I'm going to be hooking everything up on my car this weekend and i could really use some straight answers.

We could use the following wires traced to their definite locations.

Yellow: Does it go directly to Pin 24 of the ECU?
Yellow/Gray: Does it go directly to Pin 1 of the ECU or does it go to some other connector/component?
Red/Sm. Black: Does it go to pin 12 on turbo ECUs only?
Brown: We know there are two, 1 from Power stage and one from ICU. There is a Y/T connection between the two. Does the Connection go to Ground or does it in fact T off the Brown IAC wire?
Orange: Does it T of the orange wire coming from the TPS or does it go to a connector under the intake?

If someone could look these up for us that would be great?
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Old 05-22-2008, 12:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor View Post
So does anyone with an LH2.2 turbo 740 want to trace some wires for us.

I'm going to be hooking everything up on my car this weekend and i could really use some straight answers.

We could use the following wires traced to their definite locations.

Yellow: Does it go directly to Pin 24 of the ECU?
Yellow/Gray: Does it go directly to Pin 1 of the ECU or does it go to some other connector/component?
Red/Sm. Black: Does it go to pin 12 on turbo ECUs only?
Brown: We know there are two, 1 from Power stage and one from ICU. There is a Y/T connection between the two. Does the Connection go to Ground or does it in fact T off the Brown IAC wire?
Orange: Does it T of the orange wire coming from the TPS or does it go to a connector under the intake?

If someone could look these up for us that would be great?
http://nickflyman.com/volvo%20stuff/.../740-89-17.gif

item 217 is the ECU

here is another article on the swap:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=100448

on my conversion, I placed the ezk and ecu near each other in the footwell near the stock location of the ecu, I cut each harness covering near the main connectors and just wired all 4 wires from the ezk to the ecu...1st 3 wires are tied directly to each other (I left about a foot of wire or less from each box)....forth wire is T'd in
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Old 05-22-2008, 01:40 PM   #11
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^^ I read all of that. It's the one that I was comparing this article too.

So the yellow, yellow/gray, & red sm. black wires all go directly to the ECU at pins 1, 24, & 12. as detailed here?http://nickflyman.com/volvo%20stuff/.../740-89-17.gif

But that still leaves the question for the brown wire(s). Is it grounded or does it go to the IAC connector?
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Old 05-22-2008, 01:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor View Post
^^ I read all of that. It's the one that I was comparing this article too.

So the yellow, yellow/gray, & red sm. black wires all go directly to the ECU at pins 1, 24, & 12. as detailed here?

http://nickflyman.com/volvo%20stuff/.../740-89-17.gif

yes, you can wire those directly...as you can see in the picture, they use connectors wire

But that still leaves the question for the brown wire(s). Is it grounded or does it go to the IAC connector?

ground...according to the diagram(s)....you could ground them one by one or tie in like the factory did which is more ideal, too many grounds can lead to issues if not a good connection
...
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:03 PM   #13
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So any explanation as to why mine is running fine with the brown wire connected at the IAC?. I'll see if I can snap some pics today or tomorrow of how I have it. I don't want to undo it and ground it if it's going to cause my car to not run. I will change the instructions in this post once I have conformation that it works grounded....otherwise, it's working how I have it explained now.
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor View Post
^^ I read all of that. It's the one that I was comparing this article too.

So the yellow, yellow/gray, & red sm. black wires all go directly to the ECU at pins 1, 24, & 12. as detailed here?http://nickflyman.com/volvo%20stuff/.../740-89-17.gif

But that still leaves the question for the brown wire(s). Is it grounded or does it go to the IAC connector?
I dont know what happened to my picture but I will repost it later so I am doing this from memeory and I cant see the picture. The brown wire goes from the ezk to the powerstage and it needs to be grounded.

Pm me later and I will try and find my picture
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94teggy View Post
So any explanation as to why mine is running fine with the brown wire connected at the IAC?. I'll see if I can snap some pics today or tomorrow of how I have it. I don't want to undo it and ground it if it's going to cause my car to not run. I will change the instructions in this post once I have conformation that it works grounded....otherwise, it's working how I have it explained now.
You know it just dawned on me, now correct me if I'm wrong, but perhaps the Brown IAC wire does go to ground.
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:37 PM   #16
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Could be....the way mine is running is there is a brown wire going from the ezk to powerstage. Then I removed the brown wire from the IAC connector and replaced it with a wire that tees into the brown wire that goes between the ezk and powerstage. No issues with starting, running, etc. whatsoever.
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Old 05-22-2008, 04:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94teggy View Post
So any explanation as to why mine is running fine with the brown wire connected at the IAC?. I'll see if I can snap some pics today or tomorrow of how I have it. I don't want to undo it and ground it if it's going to cause my car to not run. I will change the instructions in this post once I have conformation that it works grounded....otherwise, it's working how I have it explained now.
I don't even have an IAC and my car runs great...I left it off and plugged up the hoses for it.
You do not need an IAC, it just helps with load (such as AC, or with automatics or in cold weather)

according to the diagram the IAC should have 3 wires, yet the one I just picked up at the wreckers today has 2 wires, niether is a solid brown, so maybe it is grounded thru the body??
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Old 05-22-2008, 06:05 PM   #18
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Heres the schematic I made up.

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Old 05-22-2008, 10:00 PM   #19
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So what is the reason for having to Splice in the grounds (brown wires)? Can't you simpley put a round spade conector on it and ground it to the body?
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
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So what is the reason for having to Splice in the grounds (brown wires)? Can't you simpley put a round spade conector on it and ground it to the body?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity)


your method should and could work, but the electrical engineers at Volvo (or better yet Bosch) might have had thier reasons....
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:42 PM   #21
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I have talked with Nick alot but does this look sufficient for the brown wire grounding:



Don't worry, its a lot less spaghetti looking as seen here:

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Old 05-23-2008, 10:03 AM   #22
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^^^ Thats that same way that I'm going to be doing it, for now, unless it doesn't work.
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:55 PM   #23
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Ok everyone, so here's the low-down. I spent the past hour messing with the wiring and I did try grounding the brown wire as Jeh has it in his diagram and the car does indeed run that way.

So THIS IS the correct way to wire:
-Brown wire goes from EZK to powerstage. Tee a wire into the brown wire and ground it. Mission accomplished.

I've corrected the error in my step by step in the first post. So NOW it should be a completely accurate how-to on doing the EZK conversion for LH 2.2. Along with Jeh's wiring diagram I think we finally have an easy to follow step-by-step giving everyone with LH 2.2 no excuse to not do this conversion

Thanks everyone for correcting me on this I just wanted to make an accurate, one stop how to. Please let me know if there are any other errors that I made so I can promptly fix them.
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Old 05-25-2008, 02:57 PM   #24
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Finished mine up this morning. I routed the Orange and Yellow/gray wires to the Connector under the intake manifold as per 94teggy did and my grown wires are just grounded to the body. Turned the key every thing worked fine.
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Old 05-25-2008, 03:43 PM   #25
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Awesome! Very good to hear. Now all you other lh 2.2'ers get out there and do this NOW...once you get it done you'll wonder why you ever thought it'd be hard
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