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Old 01-08-2014, 11:21 PM   #1
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Default TurboBricks Brand K-jet Fuel Pressure Test Equipment and Procedure

It is time to get back to the Bertone restoration and I knew that I was going to need more professional fuel pressure test equipment.

After searching all the various threads and stealing all the information I could this is the results of my efforts:



Upgraded version with hook to hang from hood. I used duct tape to hold the coat hanger hook in place until the JB Weld set.



It uses all standard Home Depot high quality professional fittings except for the valve and meter that were sourced from another US based supplier of Chinese hardware.

Pressure gauge: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Dry-Ut...item19e1f23ab4 or direct: http://www.directmaterial.com/2_1_2_...p/dcpa254l.htm

Valve: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Mini-Bra...item1c36162b86 or direct: http://www.directmaterial.com/Mini_B...d_p/dcvbbm.htm

Correct fuel hose clamps were from Harbor Freight.

The banjo fittings are 8mm and 10mm from my junk box as is the fuel hose.

Total cost: less than $20.

[b]The 8mm banjo is connected to the top center port on the fuel distributor and the 10mm to the input to the Control Pressure Regulator (CPR). With the valve closed the fuel distributor regulated pressure is measured as the return is shut off. That should be in the 65 to 75 psi range depending on the fuel distributor specifications. The pressure can be adjusted by adding/removing shims to the distributor pressure regulator.

See this thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=274908

With the valve in open position the CPR regulated pressure is measured. That should start off in the low to mid-twenties psi cold depending on the model of the regulator. After heating for 3-5 minutes the regulated pressure should be mid 40's to low 50's psi depending on the regulator specifications. Assuming that fuel distributor regulated pressure above is correct anything outside this range indicates a defective CPR.

There is a rebuild thread here: http://b2resource.com/PDFs/wurservicing.pdf

And a much more detailed description of its operation and assembly here (provided by Redwood Chair): http://www.jtresto.com/e21/WURServicing.pdf

Unless you repair very expensive Swiss watches for a living or a hobby I would suggest that you do not try to solve K-jet problems by opening the fuel distributor. It is a very precision bench calibrated device. But if you are tempted or just curious read this first:

http://www.cis-jetronic.com/public_doc/07.3-0997-06.pdf

An excellent explanation of the Lambda fuel management system, including the O2 sensor, the control module, the frequency valve operation and dwell adjustment can be found here thanks to keesue.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...2&postcount=35

An excellent discussion of K-jet overall operation can be found here: http://www.k-jet.org/articles/inform...jet-in-detail/

And the K-jet.org trouble shooting guide: http://www.k-jet.org/articles/inform...bugging-guide/

There are a number of very good .pdf downloads available from a UK based Bosch parts supplier covering all the various test, repair and adjustment procedures here: http://www.ferrari400parts.com/kjetdownload.php

And the GreenBook itself here: http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...tem_part_1.pdf and
http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...tem_part_2.pdf

The CPR pressure charts for the B 27 - B 28 engines: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...7&postcount=18

With the 8mm banjo connector connected to the cold start injector port of the fuel distributor, with the valve closed, the pressure to the injectors in operation can be read. Here things get a little more complicated. That measurement varies with throttle position operating on the air flow sensor and is more a function of fuel volume flow and frequency valve operation than dead headed pressure. But at least it can verify that there is fuel being supplied to the injectors.

After the fire repairs I have a number of 8mm banjo connectors to share in case anyone needs one.

The 10mm are harder to find as there is only a couple on each K-jet system. If you cannot find one off a JY car they are available here but not at TB pricing: https://www.belmetric.com/bnjf1056-b...=1041_855_1135

I would comment that the following post from one of our most knowledgeable, experienced, helpful and humorous members, now passed on to a better life is one of the greatest compliments I have ever received. May my friend TrickMick rest in peace.
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Last edited by TestPoint; 10-02-2018 at 04:51 AM..
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:34 AM   #2
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well played Laddie!
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:38 AM   #3
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Is it a liquid filled gauge?
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Old 01-09-2014, 03:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post
the valve and meter that were sourced from an US based supplier of Chinese hardware.
So Home Depot?
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:02 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Is it a liquid filled gauge?
Considered that but other than potentially better sealed could not see why. Your opinion?

No, but that is available as is various sized gauges in both diameter and scale from the linked supplier.
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post
Considered that but other than potentially better sealed could not see why. Your opinion?

No, but that is available as is various sized gauges in both diameter and scale from the linked supplier.
Liquid filled gauges damp an oscillating pressure (like the output of a piston pump and to a lesser extent that from our Bosch pressure pumps) but up front at the distributor a vibrating needle should not happen.

Nice work $20 really? And the zip tie is for brand identification? Oh, now I see the duct tape ;)
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:30 AM   #7
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The next model will include a coat hanger hook attached to the back of the gauge body with JB Weld.
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post
The next model will include a coat hanger hook attached to the back of the gauge body with JB Weld.
For me, the JB Weld would push it over the $20 cap.

Really you did a great service here and I hope your thread becomes a reference reply for all the k-jet parts cannon questions.
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:12 AM   #9
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The JB Weld tubes have been in my junk drawer for at least a dozen years so there is little cost there.

Coming from the forum's official expert on all things I take your comment with great appreciation.
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:18 AM   #10
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Is that $20 shipped?
I'll take one!


J/K. Nice work there..
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanflametrap View Post
Really you did a great service here and I hope your thread becomes a reference reply for all the k-jet parts cannon questions.
And you have a good sense of humor!
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:04 AM   #12
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This should be stickied, or at least part of a visible K-Jet FAQ thread. I remember back when I was troubleshooting my K-jetz, everyone told me "get a pressure tester and check it" but nobody offered up direction on how to build one, where to connect it, or what to look for.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:35 AM   #13
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Damm! It only started out as a bit of humor and now I have got to go make it educational.

Last edited by TestPoint; 01-09-2014 at 08:07 PM..
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:13 AM   #14
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Anyone got quick links to Control Pressure Regulator rebuild thread?

How about one on adjusting the fuel distributor pressure regulator?

Gotta go to work.
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:42 PM   #15
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This is a great resource. I've been wanting to put a FAQ together, but that would still be a few months down the road. I'd be happy to see you pull it off first!
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:16 PM   #16
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Take some picturs how it's work, and write what pressure is ok. If you do not mind.
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:43 PM   #17
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The 8mm connector is made to the top center of the fuel distributor, the 10mm to the larger connection on the control pressure regulator (CPR). Both are located in different places on different engines.

The range of expected pressures is listed in post #1 along with links to more detailed info. There are a number of variables that play into those numbers. You need to look up the specific pressures for your engine, fuel distributor and CPR type.
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:56 PM   #18
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Here are the CPR charts for the B27 - B28 engines.

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Old 01-31-2014, 04:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post
Anyone got quick links to Control Pressure Regulator rebuild thread?

How about one on adjusting the fuel distributor pressure regulator?

Gotta go to work.
http://www.brickboard.com/ARCHIVES/1...20008879.shtml

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...29-Calibration
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post
Anyone got quick links.
Here buy this, and he says he will provide an URL if you need it now:-)

Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel Injection Shop Service Repair Manual

Please note shipping time is 3 to 5 weeks as I am mailing from a remote island in the Philippines, I will be sending the download link to your email in case you need the information faster than the mails allow.

I came across this, Jetronic rebuild kits, but they note there, "Please check the rebuild instructions on the K jetronic download page."




On ebay, if you search for "K-Jetronic," some parts will come up.


On a related overview: Porsche 928 K-Jetronic CIS Fuel Distributor Rebuild



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Old 01-31-2014, 07:49 PM   #21
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The Jetronic Rebuild Kits are for the fuel distributor. I would suggest that you do not open the distributor. I have opened two, one of the two survived and I beat the odds substantially.

If you absolutely insist on opening the fuel distributor here is the most comprehensive information I have found on how to do it. Maybe the detailed info will help you understand why this is best left to those that do it for a living.

http://www.cis-jetronic.com/public_doc/07.3-0997-06.pdf

Last edited by TestPoint; 09-23-2016 at 07:14 AM..
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post
The Jetronic Rebuild Kits are for the fuel distributor...
In one of the Green manuals, Volvo suggests running a specific solvent thru system.

When the time comes, I plan on doing this, and running a solvent several hours or more, and using a good filter.

If flow looks good, that's all; otherwise, find/repair the issue.
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:37 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post
I would suggest that you do not open the distributor. I have opened two, one of the two survived and I beat the odds substantially.
Btw, Porsche 928 K-Jetronic CIS Fuel Distributor Rebuild, they suggest using Permatex Indian Head Shellac as the sealer.

Also, if you go to download page here, Jetronic rebuild kits, they have a short write up on fitting new hose to fittings. Replacing K jetronic PA fuel lines instructions (file will have to be renamed to PDF extension)

It looks better than what I've heard the way some folks do it.
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:46 AM   #24
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I have a really nice 'barn find' condition B21F fuel dizzy sitting on the shelf..
PM me if interested.


EDIT: Wait, I guess you need the B27-28 one??

I'll check my greenbooks for any useful tips to help you.
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:22 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post
I would suggest that you do not open the distributor.
Btw, what issue(s) did you have?
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