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81 242 converted to 2.4 m46 Did some cleaning up of the bay while I did a battery relocation to the trunk. "Tucked" the fender wires to the outside as shown, handful of wires were extended (soldered/heatshrinked). The battery is grounded in the trunk on clean bare metal. A new ground was ran...

So I'm planning on ordering my coilover pieces, been digging thru old TB threads and the 8" length springs seem to pop up often along with using the 5" length coilover sleeve kit. I plan on shortening the strut housing a little. Havent decided on a front damper yet, any insight on that or do I...

Did the accumulator mod on a aw71 for the 16vt. Didn't take into account selector and piston position. Threw it back together and would only go thru 4 gears with the in cabin selector. Dropped the pan today and saw the piston was in the wrong position compared to the tranny selector. I pushed...

so i have a yoshifab alu intake in my car. i just put a new oem kickdown cable in the tranny, shes mounted up and today i went to see what i could do mounting wise and its short by prolly 6 inches to the throttle body. has anyone done a "manual" kickdown cable? any chance in hell you could...

as the title states. have the yoshifab alu intake on my 16vt. anyone running or find a way to run a kickdown cable?

16vt running ms3x, full sequential, dsm cas dual window. 750cc injectors, ls1 coil packs so the car runs, and sounds pretty good (i think) but it doesn't seem to want to get to 10*, ive talked to a few people on here but im completely lost now. the car idles at about 12.8* but the lowest i can...

setting the fixed timing to 10* then adjusting the CAS while the timing lights on it i can get it close to 10* but it doesnt want to go there without backfiring and wanting to die. lowest ive got the timing according to TS is 12.3*. anything above that the car runs great without any problems...

So i have a jvab billet flywheel, clutchnet 6 puck clutch and a saab PP sourced from john v. ive been having a hell of a time trying to get this thing to work. I back spaced my clutch fork and spaced my PP off of my flywheel via hardened washers (currently 2 stacked under each PP bolt). Reason...

so ill start with the easier one first. i have a gm t5 with the m46 bellhousing, i have the full deeworks adapter on (currently in the car). now when i had it on my ford t5 it did the same thing. when i have the input shaft retainer in and it has fluid it leaks very little out of the front, i do...

so i assume im missing a part, every time i set the cable part pictured into the hole and press on the cable it pops out of the rubber grommet. what am i missing or do i have something broken/misplaced? m46 bell housing..

Well my b230 cable doesn't fit on my 16v setup with a yoshifab intake (too short). Will fwd cables fit by any chance? Anyone have lengths on rwd/fwd cables?

tried to search what size the fitting that the brake booster vac hose go to on the intake manifold and nothing came up. anyone know? need it for the yoshifab intake (holes threaded to big for the original vac fitting thanks!

looked on here and a few other sites but seems everyone does hydraulic manual conversions. anyone have a write up for non hydraulic write up? more importantly were to drill for the cable, how big, and whatever goes along with setting up the clutch cable? thanks!

cant run the oem oil cooler lines due to my 16vt diesel mounts. does anyone know what AN sizes fit on the oil cooler threads and what AN size will fit on the oil filter adapter? i know its not 10an because my oil return on the turbo is 10an and its a little loose on the oil cooler threads. i...

looking for something to get my 16vt running. ms3x b230ft squirter, stock cams, 750cc's, corolla cop's, dsm cas w/ high res wheel

is anyone using the 740 diesel mounts and using the stock oil filter/cooler adapter? if so how do you have it setup? it seems the arm for the motor mount is in the way for the original lines

so i have the deatsch werks 255 in my car (well going in at the moment), i was thinking since my stock inline pump is there should i remove it? will it slow the flow of gas being a stock pump (90' 740t)? also for the deatsch werks pump correct polarity will be the red to red wire/ black to black...

so i have everything measured up, i tighten the bolts down, spin the input shaft, and it gets real tight. anyone have a problem with this? original retainer: A: .379" B: .627" C: .033 = .215" new retainer (deeworks) A: .437 B: .599 =.162 so i should need a .053" shim which i have installed...

so i got a gm world class t5 from the junkyard, everythings good with it. i have a ford world class in my shed that needs a rebuild but im just going to sell it. i know the input shafts swap over but i have my question is how do you shim the ford input shaft into the other gear box? do i remove...

figured this would be performance due to it being a upgrade in transmission. to the point, i have a WC ford t5 that needs to be rebuilt, being i have a 740 the ford shifter location on the tail housing is a few inches further to the gear box then the gm's. can you swap just the tailhousing...