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240 Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

Could you not get a hydraulic shop...or performance tuning shop to get a you a SS braided line of the correct length and put the correct ends on? I know this is probably going on one of your project cars...so add some bling while you're at it!

Indeed. In reality though, you could also just use a regular brake flex line for a 240 and cobble a setup from normal brake line parts available from any 240 at any junkyard for next to nothing
The fittings at the slave and master are normal 240 brake line fittings.;-)
 
Indeed. In reality though, you could also just use a regular brake flex line for a 240 and cobble a setup from normal brake line parts available from any 240 at any junkyard for next to nothing
The fittings at the slave and master are normal 240 brake line fittings.;-)

Can you clarify this? Below pic is a comparison of the flexible hydraulic clutch hose (top) and 240 brake line (bottom). They are not the same.
Dave B
 

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Indeed. In reality though, you could also just use a regular brake flex line for a 240 and cobble a setup from normal brake line parts available from any 240 at any junkyard for next to nothing
The fittings at the slave and master are normal 240 brake line fittings.;-)

on my cars (with 260 MC and 700/900 series stuff) the clutch stuff was all M12x1. Line diameter was about the same though so its possible to make an adapter tube by fitting M10x1 and M12x1 to the same hardline though.
 
Bumping for another question on the conversion. How extended or squished should the slave cylinder pushrod be in "resting" position?

I just got my motor in and mated up with the M46 that I pre-rigged for hydraulic clutch. With the release bearing & fork in place and the motor bolted down to the trans the fork all feels correct and seated and stuff, but my amateur eye seems to think it doesn't look squished enough? That is, it seems like the pushrod is pretty far out and like it might not have enough travel to fully push the release bearing into the pressure plate to release the clutch?

I guess what I'm wondering is, how much does the pushrod extend when the pedal is pushed to release the clutch? 1"? Less? More? I don't have the clutch hard line made yet so I can't just push the pedal to verify clutch disengagement yet.

I did some searching and did find this pic of Bergen's car from underneath with hydraulic clutch. My slave cylinder actually looks pretty much just like this with everything installed:

IMG_2473.jpg


Is that just normal pushrod extension out of the slave cylinder at rest? I'm probably just worrying about nothing....
 
Looks about normal with a new clutch disc.

I have had to patch up cars that had a slightly bent fork and/or lazy slave cylinder when they got new clutches.

What you do is drill out the divot in the end of the clutch fork where the end of the slave presses, and install an M8 allen head bolt. Attack the end of the allen head with a decent sized drill bit to open it up a little and make a nice divot for the end of the slave to live in.

Use two nuts to attach the bolt to the clutch fork. You can thread the bolt
forward/backward to get the slave's resting position where you feel comfortable.

Just keep in mind that as the clutch disc wears, the slave needs to be able to RETRACT MORE. If you modify it, beware of the fact that if the slave were to bottom out as the clutch wears, you'll kill the clutch eventually.

The mod I suggested can be done in situ if necessary. So just try it first and see if it releases fully.
 
Is this an accurate parts list for a hydraulic conversion for an m46/47? I'm working on the build schedule for the 242 and want to have a list of needed parts.

1. Clutch peddle.
2. Master cylinder.
3. Slave cylinder.
4. line, OEM/custom.
5. Clutch fork? Is it the same as a cable setup?
6. Bellhousing? Is it the same as a cable setup?

Is there anything else?

shane-
 
Sweet -- thanks for the reassurance Kenny. Great tip too on the allen bolt mod to the fork! That's brilliantly simple :)

Right now there's a lot of room for the pushrod in the slave to retract into the body of the slave. As it is I can grab the "ball end" of the pushrod where it contacts the fork and push/retract it into the slave probably 1.5" or so. So seems like plenty of travel on that end...
 
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Is this an accurate parts list for a hydraulic conversion for an m46/47? I'm working on the build schedule for the 242 and want to have a list of needed parts.

1. Clutch peddle.
2. Master cylinder.
3. Slave cylinder.
4. line, OEM/custom.
5. Clutch fork? Is it the same as a cable setup?
6. Bellhousing? Is it the same as a cable setup?

Is there anything else?

shane-

That is a mostly complete list. Clutch fork is different than cable clutch as you're switching from a pull type to a push type actuation. Bellhousing should be the same either way, but you have to move the pivot ball. In all the bellhousings I've seen both bosses are there to screw the pivot ball into. Just unscrew from one spot and move it to the other spot and screw it in. Here's a pic from my car (with both pivot balls in place):

DSC_2825.JPG



With fork installed:

DSC_2828.JPG


The hydraulic fork you'll need comes from any 260 w/ hydraulic clutch or any 700 with hydraulic clutch (I think). Oh, and you'll need a different release bearing too. You just want the one from same above cars with hydrualic clutch. Coincidentally, I think it's the same release bearing as the M47 one, even M47 cable type clutch cars.

Here's what the release being looks like:

Capture.JPG



Last, you'll also need the retaining clip for the slave cylinder that keeps it locked in the bellhousing. It looks like this:

DSC_2829.JPG
 
Cameron (or anyone else, please!)

Do you have the diameter of the slave cylinder body where it slides into the boss on the bellhousing?

beel

Uh, same as the I.D. of the hole on the side of the bellhousing :e-shrug:



:-P I don't know and don't have one to measure at the moment. Whatcha need it for? It should fit right into any M46 or M47 bellhousing. Working on some different bellhousing?
 
Got a C/R T-5 goin in a 67 Amazon been converted to an 1800ES cable clutch/brake pedal assembly using a m46 bellhousing and Dales adapter. ustabee an automatic car that has the 1800 tunnel as well. The whole 1800 running gear and brakes are used. Wanted to do a SC B20 but had angio then had TIAs and it got too complicated. I'm doing a Megasquuirted B20.

Kind of a complicatedsetup, but it was all attached to a rust free 122 for a good price and all cuttin and welding was complete.

Just have to adapt the OG 1800 cable to fit the bell. The 240 cable has a clevis a the pedal instead of a loop over the pedal hook or i'd use athe 240 cable.

EmbarASSingly, I can't find me calipers!! I plan to turn up a delrin bushing to adapt the 1800 cable to the m46 bell.

Almsot ready tio start up!!!! pix taken and I'm working o notes to psot. Composition is touchhand go when tired (slow too).

thanks

beel
 
what if you want to do this with a getrag, does the throw bearing have to be the m47 one. Im currently using the one that spec sent me with kit, but im doing cable right now.

what are you using for a clutch reservoir?
 
^^ The throwout bearing needs to match the gearbox output shaft snout (the bit it slides back and forth on) and the clutch fork. So I'd say use one designed for a Getrag, but it of course depends on the details of your setup.

I used a 45cc reservoir from eBay (designed for motorbike brakes I think). But I'm sure there are some factory bits (260/700/900 brake master reservoir with extra outlet for clutch maybe) that can be made to work.
 
^^ The throwout bearing needs to match the gearbox output shaft snout (the bit it slides back and forth on) and the clutch fork. So I'd say use one designed for a Getrag, but it of course depends on the details of your setup.

I used a 45cc reservoir from eBay (designed for motorbike brakes I think). But I'm sure there are some factory bits (260/700/900 brake master reservoir with extra outlet for clutch maybe) that can be made to work.

well, isnt that cute:-P
 
what if you want to do this with a getrag, does the throw bearing have to be the m47 one. Im currently using the one that spec sent me with kit, but im doing cable right now.

what are you using for a clutch reservoir?

He's got the 260 MC and reservoir setup. You can still buy them new.
 
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