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#1 |
ドクターマリオ
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Crawling around under the car
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![]() I am converting a 240 from cable to hydraulic clutch and am short on 1 piece of the puzzle...
I don't have the "stock" 2 piece line between the master and slave cylinders and I am not planning on hunting that down or paying dealer price for it. What I'm coming up short on is the size/style of the fittings on the master and slave. I am using the 260 master cylinder and 740 slave. Planning to run a -3 line and would like to run a banjo fitting off the master for cleanliness and compactness as the master sits pretty close to the strut tower so there's not a lot of room for adapter fittings and hose end off the end of it. Measuring with a thread pitch gauge, both appear to be 12mm x 1.0 thread pitch. I'm having a hard time though finding a 12x1.0 to -3AN adapter. I find -3 to 12x1.0 bubble flair adapters and can find a handful of stuff that's 12x1.0 in other various flare fittings. My question is, do the flare ends really matter if the thing gets sealed with copper washers? What did you guys that have swapped to hydraulic clutch use for the hose? Or am I better off just taking both the master and slave to a hydraulic shop and telling them to make me a hose to go between them to X length? Which of course I should have thought of before bolting in the master ![]() |
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#2 |
more bounce to the ounce
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: valle de computre
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![]() I would personally go to a hydro shop. Those DIN fittings are rare, but still sourceable. You could adapt to an AN (JIC, not redundant an AN), but if you go to an adapter, then you would still have to pay for the AN fittings on the line anyways.
Besides DIN 24 (which is what I believe youre talking about) seals way better than any copper washers. Nothing worse than a leaky clutch linkage, ask me I know. Ryan |
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#3 |
more bounce to the ounce
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: valle de computre
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![]() My bad. The slave does have a flare but a M10x1 I thought. hm..
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#4 |
Exklusiv Zubehör Klub
![]() Join Date: Sep 2002
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![]() The 740 turbo hose bolts right in. It used the same fittings as the brake line M11x1.0 IIRC - metric extra fine.
The flare is a standard metric double flare. Seriously though just use 740 stuff. |
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#5 |
†John3:16
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Dallas
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__________________
![]() Last edited by DNAsEqUeNcE; 01-26-2013 at 12:19 PM.. |
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#6 | ||
ドクターマリオ
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Crawling around under the car
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![]() Quote:
That's what I thought it was but M10x1 is way too small for the hole (that's what she said). M12x1.25 starts to thread in, but threads aren't fine enough. Quote:
Thanks for the insight/experience dudes ![]() Edit: Looks like I can order all the parts (hardline/fittings/flex line/etc.) from Volvo for like $75.00 brand new which is a lot more palatable than the pricing for the 260 stuff. Flex line is the same part # between the 2 cars, but the hardline price is about 3x as much for the 260 one vs. the 740T one which is pretty dumb if the only difference is the length of the hose. Last edited by Cameron; 04-20-2011 at 02:36 PM.. |
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#7 |
All idiot, no savant
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Netherlands, Europe
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![]() I used a 260 MC combined with 940 hose/hardline (same thread/length as 740 stuff just tube crimped to hose, no coupling there) and 940 slave. It is all M12x1.
good luck on finding M12x1. Over here in metric land it is hard to find even. Some old Barkas vans used M12x1 threaded brake lines but it has been a long time since i looked into that option. You can find M12x1 banjo bolts on some 80-s VW brake systems too but a banjo coupling wont help you much. I would try to get it via a hydro-line shop and keep the 740 line option in mind as a backup.
__________________
240 | 1991 | 345K Km | B230F+T | Cosworth T3 60/63 | M90 | TrueTrack (parked for a few months) dd: 940 | 1992 | B230FB Husaberg FE450 70 degree '12 mx/supermoto swapped |
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#8 | |
Exklusiv Zubehör Klub
![]() Join Date: Sep 2002
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![]() Yes. 740 hard line screw right into the 260 master cyl.
Quote:
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#9 |
ドクターマリオ
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Crawling around under the car
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#10 |
Board Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rushing Lane, Scappoose, OR
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![]() Here's some pics of the 740 hydro setup.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Not sure why but this part makes me feel so gay.. |
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#11 |
Exklusiv Zubehör Klub
![]() Join Date: Sep 2002
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![]() Installed w/ bracket on 240:
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#12 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Camp Hill, PA
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![]() I'm no help, but what are you using for a pedal? Modified stock pedal or the last 260 pedal on earth or...??? Thanks!
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#13 |
The Beloved Oarnge Juice
![]() Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: WA
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![]() I ran the stock hard line from the master to the frame, then welded a dash 3 fitting to the ends where the rubber went, if I remember right I cut the metal ends off the hose and welded them there, then got a dash 3 brake hose for a chopper at the cycle shop.
__________________
962j 815/692@27psi ![]() SHEETMETAL INTAKEhttp://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...etmetal+intake THIS IS FORSALE V ![]() |
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#14 | |
Exklusiv Zubehör Klub
![]() Join Date: Sep 2002
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![]() Quote:
You can pretty much cut off the arm that the clutch cable attaches to and weld it back on uoside down, so it's a "push" instead of a pull. The hole in the pedal box where the hydro pdel would mount is pre-drilled into all pedal boxes I have seen. You then need to extend the pedal itself about 3-4". It sounds complex but once you are under there looking at it all it's pretty straight forward and is totally doable with a basic crappy 120v mig welder if need be. I thought I had pics but can't seem to find any... |
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#15 |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Melbourne
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![]() Did 240's come out with a cable clutch? In Oz we only had hydraulic clutches.
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#16 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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![]() I think all LHD 240s were cable. Consider yourself lucky that Australia got only hydraulic.
Just confirming that both clutch master and slave threads are M12x1 (and almost impossible to find fittings for). At least on the 940 gear I have. I'd strongly recommend the Bondo suggestion of stock 740 line, seems very simple. I've got some pics up of my clutch conversion here.
__________________
1990 240 driftwagon - B230FX+T - M90 - other fun stuff. Now sold unfortunately. |
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#17 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
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![]() "....which is pretty dumb if the only difference is the length of the hose." The other difference is the old supply/demand factor...
__________________
'82 242 6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 CrossTrek |
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#18 | ||
ドクターマリオ
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Crawling around under the car
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
![]() That's exactly what I ended up doing. |
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#19 |
fige=500Dollar Mistake
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Southern Maryland
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![]() Good info. I just recently pulled the entire setup from a 260 with the intentions of installing it in my 244.
__________________
1978 244dl - Down for paint/16vt 93 245 - Kaplhenke Shortened coilovers with adjustable Koni Reds, adjustable rear spring perches with revalved bilstein S-10 shocks. Turbo 2.5 motor in the works. 10 v50 - Unobtainium T5 R-Design AWD M66 |
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#20 |
Don Juan De La Nooch
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Rusty buttcheeks and busted doorhandles,CT
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![]() Could you not get a hydraulic shop...or performance tuning shop to get a you a SS braided line of the correct length and put the correct ends on? I know this is probably going on one of your project cars...so add some bling while you're at it!
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#21 | |
Exklusiv Zubehör Klub
![]() Join Date: Sep 2002
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![]() Quote:
The fittings at the slave and master are normal 240 brake line fittings. ![]() |
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#22 | |
Dejected by Volvo
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: North of Dallas
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![]() Quote:
Dave B
__________________
![]() '84 242ti, fourth owner, mine since 2003. Always garaged since brand new. Old-school rounds because I like. B21FT, SDS EFI/IGN, TD04HL-15G, T5Z trans with 0.73 OD, hydro clutch, 3.91 diff with unmodified G80. Volvo Ambivalence of Volvo Enthusiast Community: prancingmoose.com/#novolvo Dave's Volvo Page: davebarton.com 240 Mods and Fixes Pages: 240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html |
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#23 | |
All idiot, no savant
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Netherlands, Europe
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#24 |
ドクターマリオ
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Crawling around under the car
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![]() Bumping for another question on the conversion. How extended or squished should the slave cylinder pushrod be in "resting" position?
I just got my motor in and mated up with the M46 that I pre-rigged for hydraulic clutch. With the release bearing & fork in place and the motor bolted down to the trans the fork all feels correct and seated and stuff, but my amateur eye seems to think it doesn't look squished enough? That is, it seems like the pushrod is pretty far out and like it might not have enough travel to fully push the release bearing into the pressure plate to release the clutch? I guess what I'm wondering is, how much does the pushrod extend when the pedal is pushed to release the clutch? 1"? Less? More? I don't have the clutch hard line made yet so I can't just push the pedal to verify clutch disengagement yet. I did some searching and did find this pic of Bergen's car from underneath with hydraulic clutch. My slave cylinder actually looks pretty much just like this with everything installed: ![]() Is that just normal pushrod extension out of the slave cylinder at rest? I'm probably just worrying about nothing.... |
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#25 |
Exklusiv Zubehör Klub
![]() Join Date: Sep 2002
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![]() Looks about normal with a new clutch disc.
I have had to patch up cars that had a slightly bent fork and/or lazy slave cylinder when they got new clutches. What you do is drill out the divot in the end of the clutch fork where the end of the slave presses, and install an M8 allen head bolt. Attack the end of the allen head with a decent sized drill bit to open it up a little and make a nice divot for the end of the slave to live in. Use two nuts to attach the bolt to the clutch fork. You can thread the bolt forward/backward to get the slave's resting position where you feel comfortable. Just keep in mind that as the clutch disc wears, the slave needs to be able to RETRACT MORE. If you modify it, beware of the fact that if the slave were to bottom out as the clutch wears, you'll kill the clutch eventually. The mod I suggested can be done in situ if necessary. So just try it first and see if it releases fully. |
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