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2 things left to do on my t5 swap, need advice

mullen1120

mullen1120

safety first
Joined
May 28, 2004
Location
Maryland
first i have to get the axle cut. i was gonna use the stock 2 piece one to save some money.

but i am wondering, esp u 500dollar744ti, what did you do about the ford t5 yoke and bens shifter adapter, how far out are you running the yoke. i cant have the chance that the yoke hits the shifter AT ALL.
and does anyone have measurements on how much they cut off the 740 axle? im going to measure too but i wanna double check.

last, is the cross member. i saw a picture a while ago where someone took the stock member and added a thick plate to it and extended it towards the tranny and used the t5 mounting holes with a t5 bushing.
is this the best thing to do, anyone know where this picture is?
 
When you keep saying "axle" do you mean drive shaft? You shouldn't have to cut on the axle at all. And if you use an early 240 front shaft with the 2" bearing section and that is your winning combo for the Ford yoke. The front of that early 240 front shaft takes the same 1310 u-joint that the Ford yoke has. And the 2" bearing surface is that same as the 7/9 turbo front shaft, so you can swap your bearing onto it.
 
T5 swap

I used the two piece 940 D-shaft. I had a driveline shop cut off the front end and weld up a yoke to mate to the ford slip yoke. I ended up with about 1 1/8" out from the seal, the guys at the shop looked at it and said its fine.

I used the slick stik shifter and it doesn't come anywhere near the yoke, in any gear, that shouldn't be a problem.

We made up a trans mount that sits on top of the Volvo rubber mount and bolts to the T5. I didn't like the idea of cutting into the cross member.

Mine car has about 15k since the swap last year and the only issue is that it will sometimes pop out of first gear under acceleration if I don't keep a hand on the lever. I think that is more of a trans issue than anything with the swap.
 

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yeah sorry i mean drive shaft i dunno why i put axle.

thank for the pictures. see i didnt even know they made a shifter adapter like that, im using bne's adapter i wonder which is better...
but the problem with bens is that the shifter adapter "box" sits right over the yoke (please look at pictures in my project thread) so i am pretty worried that if i dont pull it out enough it will hit.

im going to be using the stock 7/9 shaft too and have the shop cut the front off and weld up a yoke, do you remember how much you had cut off?

and that cross member looks nice, thats the same x member im gonna be using too so i might try and make something like that ( but i cant weld)
 
I have a similar set back box that I got from Chuck here on the board. I thought I could install it with the trans in place but no go. I will have to wait until I can drop the trans in the future. It is a good set up because the pivot for the shift lever is directly below the stick, with mine there is some up and down movement in the stick. I don't think you will have a problem with interference as nothing on the shifter moves back there. You can mock it up with the slip yoke and check.

I think I measured the drive shaft to 13 1/2" forward from the center bearing. You will have to put everything in place and measure as every car is a little different. The shop said 1/2" to 1" out is best, but they looked at mine and said If it works, run it!

I have a friend who is good with a stick welder, he did the mount for me. I lined up the whole driveline in place, right height, and then we used 2" angle Iron to fab up the mount. If you don't know anyone, find a good exhaust shop welder.......
 
thats for the help ed945t, im gonna put the tranny in today so well see how it goes.

btw, can i start the engine, with ONLY the flywheel on it? just to see if it starts?

and i am still missing the clutch fork and pivot ball, should i even put the tranny in without that stuff?
 
I wouldn't start it without a rear mount in place, I dunno what the torque will do.....I'm told you can get the pivot and fork in with the trans in place but I haven't done it. I got my fork and clutch from Vintage performance.
 
i actually think i found a fork and ball locally so im gonna try n get that tom. all i need now is the x member mount fabbed. i think what ill do is put some blocks of wood in place but NOT drive the car, just to start it lol
 
If you want to check if it will start, do that, but I would turn the key off quickly as soon as you are sure it runs. Did you run a jumper wire through the plug going into the auto shifter? I think it was blue to pink. That bypasses the nuetral safety switch on the auto trans. I checked for continuity to the starter after I jumped it. The only other item would be flywheel orientation. The two hole gap on the outer ring will be at the top of the starter hole when #1 cylinder is at TDC. I followed instructions from others here and my car fired up first time.
 
really? bc i was told that the two hole gap should be 90 deg off the top and on the drivers side of the car at TDC

no i didnt jump the wire thanks for the heads up

edit: oh ok, the top of the starter hole. hmmm mine is kinda at the bottom of the starter hole?
 
Yes the pic is correct. If you get #1 at TDC, you can line up the flywheel bolt holes in the crank end. They will only line up one way with the gap in the hole where the starter goes. If you are off one way or the other , the gap will not be anywhere near that area.


If you see the plug in the pic, that went to the auto shifter. That is where you jump the nuetral switch, pink to blue I think. check it in the wiring diagrams. You can also bring the reverse light wires up from the trans and plug them into this plug, it was the red and black I think.
 

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Does your car have LH 2.2 or 2.4? If you have the 2.2 you don't need to worry about flywheel orientation.
 
no its 2.4.
also, i was told the cut out on the m46 bell for the 2.4 sensor....was pretty visible, like you could see the place where it should be cut out. but im not seeing anything, i know where it should be, but there is no cut out markings at all and the metal is not any thinner there?
 
Its pretty easy to get the flywheel lined up. If you look at the inside of the bell housing you can see where the metal is very thin, It is a U shaped section. I took a die grinder andmade short work of it. I don't think it is a critical cut just make sure the crank sensor fits in the opening.
 
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