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Hacked III: Third Time's The Charm (M90 940 Edition) (prev. Hacked II)

Sometimes you will probably stare at some bolts for 15 minutes or just clean the glove compartment but the important thing is to keep it up mentally by going there every day.

+1 to this. In fact it's a pretty useful technique for getting any kind of large-scale long-term task done, automotive or not. I often try to do this when I'm facing some big admin task that I really don't want to do, like preparing for tax season, etc..... Not that I have ever been especially good at practicing it, speaking personally.... but when I succeed I find it to be pretty effective.

The idea is always just do "something", right? Even if it's a small step, it still gets you closer and keeps you engaged and prevents the whole project from starting to seem as large and intimidating.....

And of course keeping a thread going like this one is a good way also -- so the rest of us who are enjoying watching the project can help by asking about progress. :-P

Cat, good to see it moving nicely now that you are into the reassembly phase -- and for whatever it's worth, your thread with all the good pictures is now turning into one of the best pictorial tutorials on how to do a D24 timing belt that is out there. :cool: So this is a good resource you are creating for the next guy/gal along the way here.

The main trick with getting the belt hung on all the rotating parts is to not try to "shimmy" it onto the sprockets and idlers. What you want to do is first make sure the water pump is in its fully retracted position (least tension), then insert the cam sprocket INSIDE the belt, then wrap the belt around everything else and then slide the cam sprocket onto the nose of the cam. In other words, don't start with the cam sprocket mounted on the end of the camshaft and try to loop the belt around everything including that. Instead, start with the cam sprocket held free in your hand off the engine, put the belt around it, then bring the belt and sprocket to the engine and loop it around everything else. At the end of that process, the cam sprocket will just slide onto the nose of the cam easily and you can loosely install the bolt to hold it on there (while still leaving it free enough to rotate independently of the camshaft as you finish setting up belt tension, etc).

With most engines, like redblocks, etc, you can't do this because the cam sprocket is keyed. But on a VW diesel engine like a D24 with no cam key, you can do it this way and it saves a lot of time.

If the cam sprocket doesn't want to slide right on, that usually means you have a tooth doubled up somewhere, like usually on the crank sprocket. Double check that the belt is sitting down in the teeth all the way around.

Like I was saying, once you are used to working on this engine, other engines, especially redblocks and other gassers, start to seem extremely crude and frustrating. The D24 has an elegance to the design such that once you have made friends with it and get how it all goes together, you really start to appreciate the (sometimes unconventional but often clever) thinking that went into it. The way you can slip the belt system together like this with no fighting or cussing or skinned knuckles is an example.
 
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insert the cam sprocket INSIDE the belt, then wrap the belt around everything else and then slide the cam sprocket onto the nose of the cam.

If the cam sprocket doesn't want to slide right on, that usually means you have a tooth doubled up somewhere, like usually on the crank sprocket. Double check that the belt is sitting down in the teeth all the way around.

Weirdly, that was the first thing I tried, and failed miserably. But now, reading your comment about it, yeah it was probably doubled up somewhere. I think this was before I completely de-tensioned the water pump as well. It's raining right now, so I'll grab a puller to remove that idler and try to get the belt back on tomorrow.

Cat, good to see it moving nicely now that you are into the reassembly phase -- and for whatever it's worth, your thread with all the good pictures is now turning into one of the best pictorial tutorials on how to do a D24 timing belt that is out there. :cool: So this is a good resource you are creating for the next guy/gal along the way here.

Oh, thanks! Some of my pictures have disappeared, but they're all on some SD cards somewhere. Maybe once it's all done, I could organize them into a more logical thread. Oh, and hopefully anyone else that attempts this can get it done in less than seven months.
 
Maybe probably perhaps somewhat of a small update?

Mid-November: cold.

It snowed a few times, which was a little demoralizing, but I realize now that I'm running out of time to actually work on it before it gets too cold to actually make any progress. I spent the last couple days mostly just stressing about jobs, and filling out applications and sending off resumes. Hopefully I hear back, because having some income to support this car would be great.

Anyways... started this week off right with the wrong tools. Here's a cheapy Amazon bearing puller that for some reason I thought would work.

It didn't.

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The lip on the inside of this idler isn't nearly substancial enough to grab on with the puller. v8volvo suggested I take the puller apart, and instructed me on how I could adapt it to be properly used, so this is what I came up with. Had something of a Goldilocks situation trying to find the right bolt to use as the center piece, but I was able to use the big nut from the older puller as a sketchy spacer.

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A little bit of finagling (and removing the timing cover) to get the arms to sit right, but it worked like a charm!

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Tapped the new idler on and secured it with the proper bolt. I thought at first the alignment was a bit sketchy, but at the same time the water pump was all the way loose, so that's probably why.

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Then, I was feeling pretty good, so I tried to hang the belt - followed v8volvo's advice and it slipped right on!

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The alignment seems a little questionable, but I'll address that when I go out and work on it again - hopefully tomorrow.

I busted my microwave, so now I need to go out and find a new one and install it - that'll probably eat up the rest of my day.
 
My day has been made better by your progress.
The BEST tools are the ones that need modification to work right :).
Good job!

Thanks, guys!

This week is supposed to be relatively warm, and I hope to make big progress soon?.

I think tomorrow I'm going to try to get the lower timing cover and crank pulley back on, move some things around, do an initial (cold) tension of the belt, and maybe, possibly(?) finish up the timing on the front of the motor, then I can move on to the complicated dance to time the injection pump.

Still not sure about what my plans are "after" all this. Right now diesel looks a bit expensive ($2.31/L last I checked... more than 94-octane at my local pumps) and this car was probably never going to be daily driver material in the first place, just down to it being extra slow and having all kinds of small things wrong with it - that and not having A/C. If I can start working again and figure out the logistics of a swap, a redblock might be in its future.

Who knows, maybe I'll fall in love with the diesel and decide to throw some turbo parts on it next time it needs a belt change?
 
a nice fresh update from fatcat.

good day.

I believe this weekend will be snowy here in the new of england area, will y'all in canuckistan see the same levels of snow?
 
stuff and... things

Not really a lot of progress, but some things.

I forgot to charge my normal camera, so I'm using my backup (and still getting used to it) - apologies if some of the pictures are a little blurry.

I got the bottom half of the timing cover on in preparation for the crank pulley - the cover gets sandwiched between the pulley and the crank sprocket on the backside. Took a bit of finagling to get it on there, despite there only being two bolts. It's pretty bendy, so I've found it's best to just install one of the bolts nice and tight, then you can bend the other side to conform.

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For now, the bolts on the pulley are on there fairly loose (not torqued) - just enough for me to be able to move the engine around.

The really nail-bitey thing today was making sure the motor was at TDC before I went further with timing. Part of the problem with only working on this weekly (sometimes biweekly or monthly) is that a lot can happen between major changes - naturally, the engine was a few degrees off so there was a little bit of danger.

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I didn't think it could have drifted that far, so I carefully moved both the cam and crank a teeeeeeny bit at a time until they were both where they needed to be. Fortunately, nothing bad happened as they weren't far (if at all) out of alignment.

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So, now that the cam is roughly where it needs to be, I was going to pull off that rear sprocket so I could slot the holding tool in there, allowing me to deal with fully torquing/tightening the crank pulley.

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I tried this before I took the whole front end apart, and so far, the same results. The torque spec on the bolt is supposedly double what it is on that of front sprocket, but this is just ridiculous. At some point, it felt like the cam had locked up, so I stopped. I checked the position of the cam and the engine, and nothing had changed.

Going to do some research and come up with a plan before I try and go back out there.
 
Very cold Sunday morning - so I just read through your entire thread.
Shame about all those missing images (prior to Oct/22) to go with your well documented (lack of) progress.
Are there overall pics of the wagon you can add back in for context? Kudos for taking on the D24!
Did you ever get any updates on the life of the departed 144?

Well done! Keep it up!

A pro tip on how to make progress; work on the car for at least 15 minutes EVERY day. Most of the the times you will end up spending more than 15 minutes in the garage. Sometimes you will probably stare at some bolts for 15 minutes or just clean the glove compartment but the important thing is to keep it up mentally by going there every day.

Very sound advice. I often do EXACTLY that :rofl:
 
Shame about all those missing images (prior to Oct/22) to go with your well documented (lack of) progress. Are there overall pics of the wagon you can add back in for context?

Yeah, I'm working on that. Going to mess around with image hosting services, but I should still have all the pictures - separated between three SD cards...

Since there's a snowsnorm outside preventing me from working today, I think my thread progress is going to consist of restoring all the old pictures. Debating whether I should condense the thread into one page (which I probably could, but then there'd be all these incongruous replies) or just go back and fix the images one at a time.

EDIT: I'm doing it. It's really annoying having to sort of guess what pictures were being used based on context of replies and such. Before, I was using Discord (of all things) to convert images to really clear, pristine PNGs and then just putting the link in - but those are apparently not permanent. Trying to use imgur right now, and that apparently comes with a loss of image quality, but I don't think I care anymore.

Kudos for taking on the D24!

Nothing but regrets.


Did you ever get any updates on the life of the departed 144?

I think I got one picture of the car from the guy I sold it to - was a pic of the nonexistent floor pans with no context and no further communications. He already had a later 70s 144, so I'm pretty sure the '67 either got parted out or crushed.
 
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Nothing but regrets.

Eh, you'll get over that once you hear those six sweet cylinders smoothly purring again. :)

I got the bottom half of the timing cover on in preparation for the crank pulley - the cover gets sandwiched between the pulley and the crank sprocket on the backside. Took a bit of finagling to get it on there, despite there only being two bolts. It's pretty bendy, so I've found it's best to just install one of the bolts nice and tight, then you can bend the other side to conform.

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Before you get too much farther in this area of the engine, don't forget to reinstall the alternator bracket, taking care to ensure that its lower aluminum tab sits down INSIDE that lower timing belt tin cover (the side where the belt lives). If you put it back on too late in the game and mistakenly get that tab sitting on the outside, it will crush the tin cover in when you torque the bracket bolts down and make the tin cover contact and rub on the rim of the idler pulley, creating a bad noise when the engine runs and forcing you to redo some work to get the bracket and cover where they should be.

You'll need the bracket in position for torquing the center bolt of the balancer soon anyway so this is the right time to get it on there.
 
You'll need the bracket in position for torquing the center bolt of the balancer soon anyway so this is the right time to get it on there.

Duh, ok. I guess I completely forgot about the alt bracket - been off to the side for too long. That might explain why the fit was a little wacky, I thought it might have been a little closer to the idler than original.
 
another day, another roadblock

I'm currently working on another (non-car-related) project, and I figured working on a D24 was somehow preferable to literally watching paint dry.

Last time I was panicking about having crushed valves or wiped cam lobes, but apparently there isn't anything wrong with it. Not sure what was making it feel sticky last time, could just be the cold causing a bit more resistance than I'm used to.

And so I managed to abduct and force someone to help me with that rear cam sprocket - we switched places a few times, trying to figure out who was better at holding which side. I also made sure we both knew the cam's 'range' so we didn't run into any piston/valve issues and knew our limits.

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Of course, that didn't work, either. Once again, trying to loosen the bolt on the sprocket is just torquing the motor over. Probably means the cam needs to come out and the use of an impact gun is needed, but there's one more thing I can try before I pull a 180 and completely disassemble the front of the motor again.

Also, I made this revelation after putting the alternator bracket and the crank pulley back on, so there's that.

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Pulling the cam means replacing some seals, so I guess if I go that route I'll need to order some, and at that point I might as well add a valve cover gasket and maybe some rad hoses to that order... things sorta snowball from here.
 
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