conehead
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2021
EDIT*
1) A 13/64th drill bit is almost the perfect size for a cam shaft locater pin. Little bit of sanding down gets it right down to the ~5mm that it needs to be (the piece I extracted measured 5.02, and the bit I used was 5.11)
2) Always make sure you at top dead center before assuming your timing is correct, and do check that cam locater pin.
3)the rest of this post is basically just me jabbering
1994 940 Turbo
Stock LH/EZK
ebay turbo, brown top injectors from a thunderbird?
Ran pretty well besides a leaky blow off valve.
Another no start thread, and Id like to start off by thanking ZVOLV, for that amazing no start thread.
Sorry for the wordiness but I feel i have to lay things out exactly as it happened.
I tried to turn on my hazards yesterday on my way home from work, nothing crazy just a stopped vehicle in front of me, around a blind turn and I knew there was a big dump truck bringing up the rear. Hazards didnt come on, and I started hearing a relay buzz. Eh, whatever. Go to make the next turn however, and I realize my blinkers arent working. Some more fiddling with the hazard switch, which I had left in the on position, got the hazards to work normally, and after turning them off, the blinkers were fine. About a mile later, I'm going down a long hill and hit the overdrive button to go to 3rd. When I do this in this vehicle, I often give the gas a little brap brap, to pretend like I'm rev matching my crappy auto trans, but anyway, point is when I gave it the tap tap, nary a brap brap was had, and I realized the engine was either shutting off or potentially off already. I coasted to a nice, slow and steady stop into a perfect parking spot at the bottom of the hill. First things first, I put the car in park and tried to start. Cranking away but not even a pop or bang. I got out and started checking everything I know to check,
-Found that the positive terminal was a little bit loose. tightened up, but no change
-3 blown fuses, all 15 amp and all to do with brake lights/shift lock etc. Replaced all and they havent blown again, yet
-Fuel pumps-I can hear the inline pump coming on as it should
-fuel pressure-checked and right around what i think spec is (~40psi)
-ignition coil-check
-Cps checked, found to be slightly chaffed, and swapped with a new one I had laying around, still no change
-spark-I have spark-will recheck all 4 cylinders tomorrow, but i am confident that I have spark
-I sprayed some brakleen in the intake but didnt get any response. Perhaps I should pull plugs, clean out cylinders and try again, also rechecking all four spark plugs
-Injectors firing? still not sure, but i smell gas and tried the injection diagnostic test with the little diagnostic unit and pretty sure I had success (a series of ticking noises)
-I noticed a vacuum port on the manifold had lost the vacuum cap, capped it off again and still nothing. as expected at this point
-Tried a spare power stage or whatever its called, no change, didnt have my voltmeter on me to check either of them for real
-resistor pack looks ok, connectors seem clean
-checked an cleaned fuel rail grounds for good measure, though the pumps shouldnt come on if those were the issue
At this point I towed the car home the last few miles and after arriving checked:
-timing, everything matched up.
-another shot of brakleen, a bigger shot, still nothing!
Im starting to run out of ideas here and Im wondering if the situation with the hazards somehow has a foot in all this. My assumption would be no, and that it was a funny coincidence, just the way me breaking down right outside a mechanics shop who specializes in old swedish cars is a coincidence, but then again Ive experienced a volvo that would shut right off when the brights were turned on....so to me that means the hazards and the associated wiring that they are tied into could be in play.
The car has always had an electrical issue with the dashboard. Speedo doesnt work, backlighting doesnt work and the gas gauge has a mind of its own. The blinker lights are often half lit... and I have not done the car any favors by wiring in a switch for the E fan, as well as a light bar. Cant imagine why those things would cause a no start though.
As of now, I havent heard the car even try to fire up, just keeps cranking away.
1) A 13/64th drill bit is almost the perfect size for a cam shaft locater pin. Little bit of sanding down gets it right down to the ~5mm that it needs to be (the piece I extracted measured 5.02, and the bit I used was 5.11)
2) Always make sure you at top dead center before assuming your timing is correct, and do check that cam locater pin.
3)the rest of this post is basically just me jabbering
1994 940 Turbo
Stock LH/EZK
ebay turbo, brown top injectors from a thunderbird?
Ran pretty well besides a leaky blow off valve.
Another no start thread, and Id like to start off by thanking ZVOLV, for that amazing no start thread.
Sorry for the wordiness but I feel i have to lay things out exactly as it happened.
I tried to turn on my hazards yesterday on my way home from work, nothing crazy just a stopped vehicle in front of me, around a blind turn and I knew there was a big dump truck bringing up the rear. Hazards didnt come on, and I started hearing a relay buzz. Eh, whatever. Go to make the next turn however, and I realize my blinkers arent working. Some more fiddling with the hazard switch, which I had left in the on position, got the hazards to work normally, and after turning them off, the blinkers were fine. About a mile later, I'm going down a long hill and hit the overdrive button to go to 3rd. When I do this in this vehicle, I often give the gas a little brap brap, to pretend like I'm rev matching my crappy auto trans, but anyway, point is when I gave it the tap tap, nary a brap brap was had, and I realized the engine was either shutting off or potentially off already. I coasted to a nice, slow and steady stop into a perfect parking spot at the bottom of the hill. First things first, I put the car in park and tried to start. Cranking away but not even a pop or bang. I got out and started checking everything I know to check,
-Found that the positive terminal was a little bit loose. tightened up, but no change
-3 blown fuses, all 15 amp and all to do with brake lights/shift lock etc. Replaced all and they havent blown again, yet
-Fuel pumps-I can hear the inline pump coming on as it should
-fuel pressure-checked and right around what i think spec is (~40psi)
-ignition coil-check
-Cps checked, found to be slightly chaffed, and swapped with a new one I had laying around, still no change
-spark-I have spark-will recheck all 4 cylinders tomorrow, but i am confident that I have spark
-I sprayed some brakleen in the intake but didnt get any response. Perhaps I should pull plugs, clean out cylinders and try again, also rechecking all four spark plugs
-Injectors firing? still not sure, but i smell gas and tried the injection diagnostic test with the little diagnostic unit and pretty sure I had success (a series of ticking noises)
-I noticed a vacuum port on the manifold had lost the vacuum cap, capped it off again and still nothing. as expected at this point
-Tried a spare power stage or whatever its called, no change, didnt have my voltmeter on me to check either of them for real
-resistor pack looks ok, connectors seem clean
-checked an cleaned fuel rail grounds for good measure, though the pumps shouldnt come on if those were the issue
At this point I towed the car home the last few miles and after arriving checked:
-timing, everything matched up.
-another shot of brakleen, a bigger shot, still nothing!
Im starting to run out of ideas here and Im wondering if the situation with the hazards somehow has a foot in all this. My assumption would be no, and that it was a funny coincidence, just the way me breaking down right outside a mechanics shop who specializes in old swedish cars is a coincidence, but then again Ive experienced a volvo that would shut right off when the brights were turned on....so to me that means the hazards and the associated wiring that they are tied into could be in play.
The car has always had an electrical issue with the dashboard. Speedo doesnt work, backlighting doesnt work and the gas gauge has a mind of its own. The blinker lights are often half lit... and I have not done the car any favors by wiring in a switch for the E fan, as well as a light bar. Cant imagine why those things would cause a no start though.
As of now, I havent heard the car even try to fire up, just keeps cranking away.
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