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It sounds like the toe was set to zero toe or slightly toed out. Your set up of sway bars and rear springs are just enough to make the car have a tendency to oversteer. Those are separate issues. I will set my RWD cars for a small amount of toe out when autocrossing them. It makes for...

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Just run a 240 coil.

That’s about right. I think I remember reading 3–5 pound feet of torque for those fasteners.

The system operates at less than 50 PSI. You should be fine.

The mounts Volvo sells are junk as well. The Myle mounts I bought 5 years ago were decent. They might be junk now as well.

You might have a hose leaking. The Nissens last about 10-15 years normally. Some of the aftermarket radiators fail much sooner than that.

I think the TPS is readily available and relatively inexpensive. It might be a good time to grab a new one while they are still available.

Shave 1mm off the head and get an adjustable cam gear to adjust for the difference. Enjoy the performance increase. culberro will likely chime in. I think he has shaved heads over 2mm without any problems.

Put a thin film of grease on the inner race of the new pilot bearing and on the bearing surface of the input shaft before you reassemble everything.

That puts a lot of force separating the two exactly the way you would want the force to be applied. I still think it was the dowels creating the problem.

If you are sure all the bolts are out it is a case of corroded dowels keep the two from separating. Spray the dowel pin area with PB Blaster.

Both 940 parts cars I have here in Monroe are sunroof equipped. Come over and pull the rest of the carpets out of the sedan and grab the sunroof wiring while you are at it.

Calipers almost always confuse me. I have to remember which side of the rotor they are on etc. Too many different configurations on various makes of cars.

Right rear caliper. The bleeder is always at the top. The rack is a CAM rack.

TBH, if it were my car I would locate a LH 2.4 harness, a 951 ECU and a 016 AMM and convert it to LH 2.4. A few hours work and done. Sell the 3.1 system to someone else for $300+. I've had plenty of 240s with both systems and there is no difference. Not in fuel mileage, not in power...

There really aren’t much different than LH-2.4 cars. The one thing I would suggest is finding another AMM and buying it if you come across one. Those are super hard to find in good working order.

Thanks for correcting that. I meant to say LH 2.0. I fought that for over a month on a car someone "rewired". They cut the shielded wire from the coil to the ECU out of the harness. I finally figured out what was missing.

That's exactly why it was done the way it was. A safety feature to keep the fuel pumps from spraying fuel all over a wrecked car. You could split hairs and say it doesn't need spark. What the ECU needs is an RPM signal. On Volvo K-jet that was delivered from the coil low voltage terminal.

Yes, it is. LH has been that way since LH 2.0.