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I've never used the bleed screw they sometimes have on a master cylinder. I've always done the version with lines back into the reservoir. The local autoparts stores used to sell a kit with plastic fittings and flexible hose to do the bench bleeding. But we've also used bent metal lines and both...

Glad he is still around. That's too bad there is some bad feeling about Volvos. From what I recall he also did the service for old Mercedes and other high end cars. That cutoff of communication reminds me of when my brother mentioned he bought aftermarket headlights for his BMW to Daniel Stern...

Well you bought a car with unknown history. One good way to start the process of knowing what you have is to do a compression test. If needed then you can diagnose a mechanical issue. If the compression is good. Then work on diagnosing the misfire. Misfires can be from electrical issues like a...

They call them bearing in electric motor speak. But usually they are some type of bronze bushing material. Bill used some type of small bearing like in a fishing reel or something I was told. But I don't really know.

That is rather random. My 93 wagon had one it was lh2.4.

Yes, start at the bulb failure sensor and use a test light for checking power. That way you know the circuit will flow current to operate.

OK it's my eyes. Thank you.

Here is the ebay seller I just bought a NOS LH3.1 mass air sensor from. Got it to me right away. You could ask him if he can get you an 016. He has a couple others for sale but not an 016. https://www.ebay.com/str/jsvolvoparts I would also check with swedishiron.

Yeah, I agree not the most legible. Also Haynes is like that. Another aftermarket source you can try is a Mitchell manual. They publish service information for cars in big manuals. So for example on ebay you can buy a copy of the year for your car and get not only your car but all the imported...

The ebay ones worked so far in my friends car. But there is no guarantee as you may get a DOA one. I would put a request in Wanted section and someone will sell you one.

Back in the day everyone thought Bill Chebbs rebuilt fan motors at $150 was expensive. Now if only we had Bill rebuilding them now. I'd pay to to get Bills motors. They were the best because he rebuilt the motors with bearings instead of bushings like the factory used. The one in my turbo is...

The clip is for the Regina coil. Yes, cut it off and crimp a standard contact on there.

It's a strut seat though. Not a spring seat. lol.

The rear tail lights and brake lights all go through the bulb out relay. If you have no lights that can happen if that relay fails. It's easy to check with a test light and the wiring diagram will show you each input and output on the relay for each light circuit. I would browse the Volvo...

Are you maybe also experiencing some driveline windup from a weak motor mount? That Ill make these cars hesitate while shifting as things move around. Eventually, GTjordan should see this thread cause he knows this stuff very well.

Yeah, 150F is probably not as hot as that environment those hoses will be in. The gas from the engine may even be hotter than that. Is that color the 412 metallic dark green? My old car was that color. Cool color combo and always fun to see a manual turbo car.

I've generally never seen a cold start valve on LH2.2 engines. But it seems like the LH2.4 cars got them at least all the cars I've seen in this area. Now I have an LH3.1 car and I haven't even checked it yet.

I bought mine when I had to start bleeding my 93 crash victim wagon back in 2007.

Well, your car is a GLT. That means you had full length strut inserts from Boge in there. Meaning no spacer at the bottom of the strut. You have to put the spacer the n/a cars have in the bottom of the strut. Because that is how the KYB inserts are supposed to be setup.

Bad days happen. Slow it down a bit and take some time to gather yourself to get er done. The motive pressure bleeder has been a real big help in times like this.