Search results

I can help with no.3. I'd suggest some EBC pads. The Blue Stuff ones have been the most recent happy purchase I've read about here. Drilled and slotted rotors. I bought mine on ebay. Braided hose flex lines with some high quality fluid and you should be good. If you don't have a service manual...

The ignition amp is the module bolted to the left inner fender right next to the battery.

You won't get fuel until the computer thinks it's making spark. So start checking the ignition for switching at the coil terminal 1 when cranking. If not there you move to the ignition amp on the left inner fender for signal testing from the ECU and to the coil.

My original T3 with the .63 housing wouldn't do anything till 3k rpms. Then you got full boost. So, in an effort to improve things. I put the Sierra Cosworth .48 T3 housing on. Now it will give you a bit of boost about 2400 or so. Then when it gets to 3k it goes to full boost so it's a lot...

Great to see you having some major fun with the car. You have the normal Volvo roll. That's when the car rolls over a bit then takes a set for cornering. The only way to change that is to go to stiffer springs. Larger anti roll bars help but I'd go with stiffer springs.

I can only reference my own experience with aftermarket fuel senders which is good. Delphi is just reboxing someone else's product. I would give it a try. If a Volvo unit is available it's going to be three for four times the price.

The best place online is right here in the wanted section. Put a request in that section of the forum and someone will have an ECU for you.

Yes, but it's a two section relay. The large red wire has power all the time. The large red/yellow should get power when you crank. The first section of the relay turns on with the key. But the fuel pump section only turns on when the ECU detects the rpm signal from cranking.

You can have your rack rebuilt at a rebuilder like the one mentioned earlier in the thread. The ZF rack is considered the better feeling steering rack of the two main types. If you do go for a new rack yes, you will need the Cam style mounting parts.

Glad to see you got it sorted out.

When you start to install the pump. There are two stud which have slotted holes on the pump. Use those to put the pump on and apply the leverage. With the leverage properly compressing the seal snug up the two nuts on the studs. Then you will be able to start the other bolts. Don't go too crazy...

Check with VP Autoparts or Swedish Car Parts. You can also take your old lines to a hydraulic line shop and they can use the old fittings with new hoses. Probably the most affordable option.

I would just replace the points with a Pertronix. Check to see what cam you have. A single carb Penta used the A cam. You can use the V cam from a twin carb Penta engine for a bit more top end power. The other decent improvement you can get is to have the head flowed by the machine shop. You can...

I like your solution. Glad to see the shaking has gone away. Happy rolling!

The 123 unit is the same as an 079 just with a longer warmup period. You need the 128 regulator like what is in for sale section. Then you connect the pressure differential switch to the terminal 11 on the ECU. The vacuum line goes from the intake to the thermal valve on the head. Then from the...

Original ones aren't made anymore. It's all cheaply sourced stuff even the Volvo one nowadays. If the original one is still proper resistance there you have it. Just make sure you install it correctly above the fan motor which puts it in the airflow to cool it off.

I also run a 82C thermostat all year so a bit longer warmup is a normal thing for me. Just the fuel mileage difference between my turbo and any LH car is a win. Right now I'm also discovering that LH3.1 runs well without an O2 sensor as I haven't installed the converter yet. That's getting done...

Does it still have a 561 ECU in it? Try a 951. My LH2.4 cars always ran more smooth with that ECU.

I'm sure they sell the clips at some place like VP autoparts or swedish car parts.

Just to update my earlier question. I did the cold air only mod to the stock airbox with the LH3.1 and it does seem to run well on cold air only.