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Make sure to push the torque converter back into the transmission bell housing so it will be safe. Support the transmission BEFORE you pull the engine off. Keep the engine level (well, at the same angle) as you remove it. Less chance of damaging something. There will be a coupe of locating...

Probably contains the same DOS programs I've had here since late 2001. The upper "CalcGen" version lets you switch the diodes around, in case you started counting from the wrong end, while the 905 version gives a different code for that sequence. Maybe it uses the "other" version of the matrix?

Unless the Internet is lying, your radio code is still set by soldering a bunch of diodes to the circuit board inside. If you pop it open, hopefully you see something like the picture below. If so, you're in luck. You can either make notes of where a diode is or isn't (to get the original...

Pulley crankshaft B230 with servo Diameter: 120mm Number of tracks: Two Stockers (according to Rockauto) are about 157mm

The smooth and undamaged sprocket "nub" must fit into the smooth and undamaged balancer's slot, with no other crap trapped between the two faces to make them not sit perfectly flat with each other. Doesn't look like that happened.

Not properly seated usually means the cup isn't in all the way, allowing the joint to shift slightly sideways and letting the driveshaft wobble, or whip like a skipping rope. Probably explained by your earlier comment of "Two of the cups were loose when I pulled side to side."

What do you expect, some king of color-coded picture or something???? :wave:

There's only 16 splines. It's either off by 22.5 degrees (that's a LOT), or it isn't. You don't need fancy jigs or tools. An eyeball should work just fine. Here's a pic of dorvin's driveshaft hole from 2018, with that "missing" 16th spline: The zerks are tiny, and weigh almost nothing. They...

Diagrams show Can Bus lines as well. Got all the needed modules and harnesses?

As Radtap mentioned, these locks use flat wafers. Instead of pushing a round pin up using just one side of the key, the wafers have a rectangular opening that the key goes through, so the key will work either way. Over time, not only does the key wear down and not lift the wafers far enough to...

Did we verify the inner diameter of the needed bearing, so it will actually go on the driveshaft properly? Easy enough with the old bearing off. I think there was a couple of different sizes, depending on the DS used. My old parts PDF shows either 183265 or 181549, depending on the engine/trans...

https://eeuroparts.com/product/oem/04828121 https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/9447805.htm?pn=9447805-M56 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volvo,1995,940,2.3l+l4,1289101,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700 (and several others, according to Google) The cheap one at...

Sounds more like the electrical switch than the lock cylinder. Happened to me a few times. First one lasted 25 years (I assume) with your symptoms. Replacement lasted 1 year. Next replacement lasted a whole 4 months. Went with OEM Volvo, 8 years so far... It seems to be either the...

So, this way? Blue/green now triggers the relay, instead of the original path to the solenoid (dotted line). = Replace the original blue/green from the key with your powered push button wire of choice.

Ah, real boobies, not Tentacle's Anime version. Last seen: Apr 27, 2020

Who, Lord Tentacle?

Apparently you look under the dash at your pedals for the servo and cut valve(s), above that for the controller, and under the hood near the booster for the vacuum pump.

So, "My other thing has 8 speeds and 20 patterns. Why can't my wipers do the same??" :oogle:

Me too! Me too!!