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Seems like it helped, turning the wheel with the car in position after bleeding the system doesn't take tons of effort. Idle doesn't drop like I'd expect it to. But it's also an R-Sport 14" wheel, so :???:. All these parts have some miles on them. I reckon I'll rebuild my original ZF rack and...

Just got mine apart, valve has no shim washers. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motortrend.com/how-to/gm-type-ii-power-steering-pump/amp/ Seems to be that this would result in higher pressures. Going to clean it up and throw it back together

Sure, let me spend all the time and money I don't have on something that could easily go wrong via user error and end up costing even more! Yeah, no. You're like all the guys on LS1TECH telling people to tune their own setup. It's not for everyone.

Yessir, I installed one of the MFP filters at the same time as the install of the pump. Understood. Sounds like shuttle valves in a trans valve body (flashback to auto trans class *shudder*).

You're the best man! I was thinking this is more likely, as when I was flushing it, the fluid was black.

Hello! I have one of the later integral reservoir power steering pumps on my 242, and even after a flush it seems to not be doing it's job. Steering effort seems a fair bit more than the old Saginaw teardrop, and the RPMs don't drop at idle if I'm operating the steering. Rather than r+r, I...

I spoke to one of the old interiors workers at my job (aircraft restoration), and he said grafting in new panel board shouldn't be a problem. He said to use a contact adhesive and just glue a new piece to a good bit of the panel.

The shape is actually pressed into the Masonite.

My only concern is the center portion that juts out from the door. I'm not sure how to recreate that.

Hello, I am currently working on getting the interior of my 242 sorted after painting the car last summer. The issue I currently have is that my door panels are in sorry shape. I did a temporary repair a year or two ago, but I would like to be able to properly fasten these panels to the car...

Das hawt

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7149/Front-Lower-Chassis-Tie-Bars-brace-240-IPD-103886-Volvo-1229483?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA04arBhAkEiwAuNOsIhcDXs1XD8wNfv4MIwAXkTp0ZgLkpFWPaS-8Ql0PQ1dmoij6RsfczRoCiBoQAvD_BwE

And the clapped out V6 WC I got is clearly better than both these options :-P

I think they are referring to the actual transmission mount crossmember. The M47 one has oversized holes wherein you install rubber bushings.

That's exactly the info I was shooting to gather. Sorry, it was a quick mid workshift post. Basically, any excessive NVH of all kinds isn't great. By excessive, I'm specifically talking about the sort that makes you feel like your car is shaking itself to death. But I have no problem with the...

As mentioned in the original post, stick is preferred, but only if it is vibration free. I think the rest is subjective. I personally don't find 940s nicer, I don't really fit in them. And old Lexus cars don't tickle my fancy.

I don't think anyone, myself included, is looking for a perfectly quiet and smooth experience, just a final result that doesn't take away from the driving experience. Which is to say, I'm certainly not expecting "OEM NVH" (which isn't always that good, anyway), just something decent.

In most cases, yes. But there are quite a few individuals that have had issues with NVH, and many have used very high quality parts and know what they are doing. That, and many different combinations of dampened yokes, flywheels, etc. have been used with many people still having NVH complaints...

It's looking through the threads of individuals saying that it makes the car uncomfortable, etc. My fear is spending the money and ultimately being unhappy with the end result.

Thank you for the information. I think the gear noise isn't hugely a problem for me. Moreso anything like vibration and the like that can cause odd wear and tear over time. My thinking was to stick with an LH 2.4 dish flywheel, maybe stick with a stock center bearing support (if it can handle...