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The center support bearing is already isolated by a big rubber donut. Are you saying you added additional isolation between the center support bearing bracket and the frame? I don't see how that would help.
I have yet to solve a major NVH issue with my t5, but I will give some input anyway. First, some background:
- The transmission is a t5z freshly built by a reputable t5 builder.
- I have a flat flywheel and a stage 2 clutch masters clutch.
- I have a yoshifab crossmember
- I have a plain old...
In the meanwhile, your phone may have an option to invert the colors. On android, (assuming it's a somewhat modern version) you can add a toggle (on the pulldown menu) to invert colors and there may be a toggle for "extra dim" which allows the screen brightness to go below its normal minimum.
Seriously, I am very excited about this and will order it as soon as it's available. I'd be down to buy and test a prototype as well. Will this involve something like drilling and tapping a threaded hole down the center of the output shaft and bolting this adapter on?
Any chance we could have this in a year? This would be very exciting. On the subject of NVH, besides the horrible resonance from my driveshaft, the most annoying and loudest thing about this transmission in my opinion is not the decel gear rattle, but the idle gear rattle with the clutch out in...
The yoshifab crossmember's mount platform is simply mounted through slots big enough that the platform can sit at any roll angle the transmission wants to sit at. If you're talking about making a t5 slip yoke that has an m47 guibo tripod instead of a u-joint, I'd buy one.
By the way, I've stopped driving the car until I get this fixed because I feel like it's hurting the car. Y'all think I could've damaged things by driving it a few hundred miles?
What do you mean about the m47 being tighter? The coupling with the front drive shaft? Mine's a two piece with the front driveshaft modified with a slip yoke. You mean that the looseness of the slip yoke around the splined output shaft can react with the vibrations and introduce worse...
Are you talking about removing the wire terminals from the wire side connector? If so, try grabbing the wire as close to the connector as you can and push it gently into the connector while you lift the locking tab in the connector and then pull the wire out.
Yeah I just drove the car for the first time in a while and I'm sure it's driveshaft related. The noise really picks up around 40 mph, peaks around 50-55 with an unbearable ultra-bass resonance that rattles the loose bits in the car, then past 65 it turns into a really awesome sounding noise...
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