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16V Turbo 242

GTJordan

Been here for too long
Joined
Jul 6, 2002
Location
Edmonton AB
I sold my last 242 in 2010. Project thread here http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=169307 (previous project was a 91 740 with getrag, 15g, exhaust, IPD suspension, etc. Before that (circa 2001 was a 79 242GT with b21FT and one of the first megasquirt conversions. I still have this car but its really rough and heartless).

I always planned on replacing the car with another 242. I found though, that 242s were all of a sudden hard to find in my neck of the woods. I decided I would go to the States to find a clean shell, but after two years of looking, I found one local.

It was a stock 1980 242DL. B21A carb engine with an M45 transmission. I have never driven this car. I saw it show up at a couple local meets, but I had bigger plans.



I have a road circuit close to my house (15 minutes) which also has a drag strip and they host weekly autocross and drifting events. My plan with the car is to be able to take it to the track, but also be able to drive to work (It doesn't have to be comfortable, I have a short drive to work). I would like 350WHP. My friends AMG is sort of my performance target. He runs the quarter in the high 12s.

Engine

I bought Eammons (Hockey740) engine figuring it would be a better deal than building my own from scratch.

Specs
2.5L penta crank
JohnV rods and pistons
Squirters
Kenny Howard ported head----This is a Penta head- so has the idler and tensioner built in- no Yoshi assembly required for tensioning the belt.
EVERYTHING inside the head and the block was new when built (has 5000Miles on it).
Electric water pump
ARP studs
MLS headgasket.

I wanted to check out the bearings because I knew before hand the engine had been started without oil initially (someone forgot the oil pump drive gear). I pulled the pan and pump and inspected the bearings- decided to change them. Decided I'd pull the head off and inspect the headgasket while I was at it. All looked good until I rotated the engine and found a small pocket of the cylinder missing from cylinder #4


I took the block to the machine shop. After deciding to sleeve the cylinder, I decided against it and stripped down my spare block I was originally going to build up. It is currently at the machine shop being tanked, bored, honed (with a torque plate), align honed and decked. The shop is really backed up, I don't expect to see the block back until mid to late September.




I can't have a nice block, without having some nice manifolds, turbo, IC and radiator right?

I have a NIW tubular header. Pulse paired, twin Tial 38mm waste gates that I got from Mike when he parted out his 16V project. I also got his turbo, an authentic Garrett T3/T4 50 Trim (I'll have to look up the specs). I had hummed and hawwed about buying his turbo, because I really wanted to go ball bearing right off the hop. I don't feel like this turbo will be a hinderance at all. I also got his modified water pump.



In car



I picked up a NIW intake manifold from one of the group buys he did (no picture)

Radiator is from the DO88 group buy.
Intercooler is a DO88 Group-A replica. Its nice. When I was in Sweden a month ago, one of the Volvo engineers showed up with a 122 with an authentic Group-A IC. I couldn't tell them apart.







Yoshifab CCV system.

I plan on running MS3PR0 for injection/ignition. I haven't worked out all of the details on that yet. Still a while away from actually having a running car. I'm pretty much in a mock up stage right now.

Transmission

Plan is on a T5 swap. I have a Dee works adapter plate and a JohnV flywheel (drilled for SAAB PP though). Thinking about switching this out for a YoshiFab set up.

Brakes

So for the brakes.

Homer Porsche brake kit front and rear but slightly modified.

6 piston front calipers with the 4 piston rears. In the rear, a set of S60 hand brake shoes were cut and welded to a 240 hand brake shoe. This allows removal of the 240 rotor hat. Homers adapters have to be machined slightly shorter to allow the rotor to move in board slightly (taking up space the hat would have occupied).

Only picture is of the front set up. I'm rolling the car around on 17" pegs at the moment, and may for a year.


Suspension

I pretty much just bought Kaplenkhe.
DIY coil overs. with Lux steer,
Full camber/Caster plates
Heim jointed torque rods and Pan hard.
Strut brace
Brake line holders
Spring rate is 400/250LB
Roll correction spacers
Adjustable sway bar links
All new ball joints, wheel bearings and seals.
Currently the car has a manual rack. This will make way for power steering. (I have a rebuilt rack, just need the steering column shaft)


I am doing short struts in the front. I bought a set of SAAB bilsteins from Nathan which will get re-valved. The SAAB strut ended up being 1.75" shorter than the Volvo. I rented a tap from the user AlisonCustoms here, and threaded my strut tubes, then just chopped off the excess length.


At this point, I only have the front suspension mocked up- I haven't touched the rear yet. Thats because I have a set of 4.10 gears to be put in a 1031 rear end. I am see sawing on installing a wave track diff. I haven't done much research into this though. I will sand blast and paint the rear diff assembly before installation.

The above picture of the brakes, has the weight of the car on the jack (engine/interior all missing, so its sitting high).

Body

I am going to convert to 86+ front fenders and front end.
E-codes- disassembled, cleaned, buckets painted black, all new clips and internal clips.
Egg crate grill



Finding the late style fenders and core support, has actually turned out to be a harder task that I expected.

The front bumper I need to design a quick release system to get the front spoiler/ bumper off easily for access onto our alignment rack and onto my car hauler.

I have an american rear bumper to replace the commando.

Fenders will be pulled. Tire size aim is a 255/40-17 in the rear. I wanted to run matching up front, but I may drop down to a 235 after talking to a few people. Rims will likely be CCW or Kodiak. Due to that, I'll probably run Pegs for a year or two so I can rebuild the savings account.

The body was originally turd brown. I thought about painting it white. But I'm sort of leaning back to its original turd brown. The previous owner repainted the car a circa 2008 SRT10 brown colour.

Interior
Custom gauge cluster. I have a perfect old style dash. I haven't decided anything here yet.
2 Seats, but I still need access to the back seat. I want to take my kids for drives.
Painless wiring harness (have)
Switch what panels are left, to black.
Universal heater assembly.

Thats Pretty much where I stand now. I just bought myself a new welder (MillerMatic 211), so I'll start seam welding the chassis in the next few weeks. A local guy keeps telling me he will bring over a regular brake booster and a fuel injected fuel tank. But I have yet to see that stuff.

Thoughts and comments are welcome, I still have quite a bit of flexibility left in the build as I'm still in mock up. I was hoping to at least drive the car next summer without having painted it. I'm not sure that will happen. I keep adding up whats left, and its a lot. But I'd rather spend the money once and do it once.

Jordan
 
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John242Ti

LH-Jet & Carb Free Zone
Joined
May 19, 2003
Location
Duvall, WA
Cool. Welcome back to 242-dom...

Also, what Alex said... Go for something that has some top end. Even though I have a 3.71 1st gear M46 in my blue car, 1st seems to be less than ideal when combined with the autotragic turbo rear axle. Was worse when I had my old red '83 with a turbo M46 and 3.91.

-J
 

gsellstr

Vintage anti-ricer
300+ Club
Joined
Oct 21, 2004
Location
BFE Desert east of Cali
I dunno Alex, I've got the 3.35/4.1 combo in the 140 and it's actually not too bad. Yeah, it's a little short but sitll gets it up and going real nice. Admittedly that's without boost though...for now...
 

GTJordan

Been here for too long
Joined
Jul 6, 2002
Location
Edmonton AB
Thanks everyone.

This is going to be tasty. Are you sure 4.10 gears won't be too short? First gear is going to be 100% useless.

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I plan on running a T5 with a 2.95 first gear. I have driven this combo in another car and liked it quite a bit.

Jordan
 

adomz

Volvo 486 owner :D
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Location
Chepstow, Wales, Uk
YaY! That looks ace!! Hope it all goes to plan tf there is one and makes you smile loads! I wonder how good that manifold is! One day i will need to get something manufactured somewhere... haha.

Cheers,

ADam
 

GTJordan

Been here for too long
Joined
Jul 6, 2002
Location
Edmonton AB
you should vert mount this thing

That was the original plan. I have a set of 75 B20 mounts I was going to use as mock up. But once I saw where in the intake and exhaust manifolds were going to sit (booster interference) I just ignored the plan and will do a normal mounting position.

Jordan
 

Stiggy Pop

In the cool kids club
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Location
Granville, MA
yeah if it's not this it's that I suppose.

re: the flywheel mine is still vaporware but it looks like some people have gotten them now. I'm not sure if Josh was going to keep putting them out since it was such a hassle getting this run made.

4.10's should play nicely with the 2.95 box.
 
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