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16v with DCOE Webers - what to use for ignition/distributor

Jack

Jack

junkman
Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Location
The Ass Cheek Of History
I'll be 16v B230 with DCOE webers swap soon in my 220. I have the shortened distributor from yoshi and the dsm cas one. I want to keep this build as simple as possible.. so what can I use for ignition timing

thanks
 
Could you put a pertronix ignition module in the shortened distributor?
Microsquirt would be the next easiest. Just set up a RPM based ignition table, and use a 60-2 crank trigger and OEM VR sensor. You could also just use the CAS, but there's trade-offs with that as well.
 
culberro said:
Could you put a pertronix ignition module in the shortened distributor?
Microsquirt would be the next easiest. Just set up a RPM based ignition table, and use a 60-2 crank trigger and OEM VR sensor. You could also just use the CAS, but there's trade-offs with that as well.
Click to expand...

I HATE the pertronix modules

school me on the CAS setup.. I know nothing
 
Jack said:
I HATE the pertronix modules

school me on the CAS setup.. I know nothing
Click to expand...
I know enough about the CAS that I don't want to use it. You'll need to use a 4 post coil, ls coils, or a coil on plug setup

I'm a OE crank sensor type of guy. With the OE crank trigger you can use the stock coil and ignition amplifier/driver + shortened dizzy, or LS coils, or COPs, or a 4-post VW coil.

Also, pertronix is fiiiiiiiiine. It'll also fit nicely in the shortened dizzy you have, and then just run it to a stock coil.
Or
Buy a 123 distributor and get it shortened.

I think you're more of a pertronix or 123 person.
 
culberro said:
I know enough about the CAS that I don't want to use it. You'll need to use a 4 post coil, ls coils, or a coil on plug setup

I'm a OE crank sensor type of guy. With the OE crank trigger you can use the stock coil and ignition amplifier/driver + shortened dizzy, or LS coils, or COPs, or a 4-post VW coil.

Also, pertronix is fiiiiiiiiine. It'll also fit nicely in the shortened dizzy you have, and then just run it to a stock coil.
Or
Buy a 123 distributor and get it shortened.

I think you're more of a pertronix or 123 person.
Click to expand...

I think the engine currently has a flywheel setup for crank sensor but I cant remember for sure.

BUT
I forgot all about 123 distributors. I do have two of those (one not being used) shortening that up is a good idea!

since I have you on the line... I got a pair of 45 webers I was told that the 16v might need to go 50s

penta cams or stock ?
 
Jack said:
I think the engine currently has a flywheel setup for crank sensor but I cant remember for sure.

BUT
I forgot all about 123 distributors. I do have two of those (one not being used) shortening that up is a good idea!

since I have you on the line... I got a pair of 45 webers I was told that the 16v might need to go 50s

penta cams or stock ?
Click to expand...
45s will be fine, you can always upgrade to 50s or 55s when you feel like making more noise.

I’d go penta cams if you have them, though there’s not a huge difference in the two.
 
I've been slowly creeping toward a DCOE 16V in my PV, this thread is pertinent to my interests.

I have a 16V DCOE manifold and a pair of 45's, at some point I could pull the intake off my 16V and see how much clearance there is with the DCOE's on it.
 
JohnMc said:
I've been slowly creeping toward a DCOE 16V in my PV, this thread is pertinent to my interests.

I have a 16V DCOE manifold and a pair of 45's, at some point I could pull the intake off my 16V and see how much clearance there is with the DCOE's on it.
Click to expand...
All I need is a manifold besides maybe the 123

Which one did you end up getting ?
I’m not sure what’s the better route for 16v in Amazon, slanted or upright
 
Last edited:
Jack said:
Which one did you end up getting ?
I’m not sure what’s the better route for 16v in Amazon, slanted or upright
Click to expand...
I bought it used, I think it's a KL Racing. It's angled, if I hold it up against the B234's angled intake side it looks like it would work upright.

I'm not entirely sure how the engine fit would go in the PV, slanted might allow me to keep the stock heater box (which hangs out all over the place on the left side of the engine bay), but I wouldn't be shy about sticking a vintage air heater inside if needed.

The front end of the PV engine bay gets pretty narrow, that might force me into upright mounting.
 
JohnMc said:
I bought it used, I think it's a KL Racing. It's angled, if I hold it up against the B234's angled intake side it looks like it would work upright.

I'm not entirely sure how the engine fit would go in the PV, slanted might allow me to keep the stock heater box (which hangs out all over the place on the left side of the engine bay), but I wouldn't be shy about sticking a vintage air heater inside if needed.

The front end of the PV engine bay gets pretty narrow, that might force me into upright mounting.
Click to expand...
The KL Racing and FAJS manifolds from china are crazy good quality. The ones that are made in the US are not nearly as good.
 
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