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1967 122S Coupe Rehab: Waking An Amazon After A 40-Year Hibernation

polaris

Mk V
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Location
SF, CA
Two months ago I received a text from a friend of mine who recently moved out of SF and up to Santa Rosa (about an hour north). They were sending me contact info on a guy they had just met who has a bunch of Volvo 122s he was looking to sell. Call him up and find out there are 5 cars he is trying to find homes for; two 1964 sedans, two 1967 wagons and a 1967 coupe. They had originated from a Volvo collector in Walnut Creek who passed away last year. After getting details on each one of the cars, the one I am most interested in is the 1967 coupe. From the initial pictures I receive, it looks to be fairly solid. On the other hand, one challenge of this car is it has not been on the road since the middle of the Reagan administration.

A week later my friend Alex and I take a drive up north to check out the coupe and one of the wagons. We end up seeing the wagon first and quickly determine it is more of a project car than a runner. It was said to have been dormant for 5-7 years, but the floors had definitely seen better days. We then went to look at the two-door which is being stored at a different location about a mile away. (Update: This owner is at $1000 for this wagon)

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Circling around the coupe, start to assess whether this would be a worthwhile project. The latest tag on the license plate reads 1984, though it is a late 1960s black and yellow license plate, a true sign of an original California car. In spite of the 40-year slumber, there is not much rust showing on the exterior. Find a little corrosion at the bottom of the quarter panel near the juncture of door and the sill, though not extensive. From the condition of the window seals and the overall condition of the paint, the car looks to have been stored inside rather than left to the elements. The big issue with the paint is a fair amount of splotches on the hood, roof, trunk and the top of the front quarter panels. The diameter of the scars seem to point to being bird crap which weakened and ate through the paint. Other speculation is it could have been tree sap but the size of the blemishes and scars better match to birds rather than trees. The most significant section of rust on the car turns out to be at the base of the nose piece just above the bumper.

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A mostly intact B18 sits in the engine bay though the SU carbs and the starter are missing off of the engine. The exposed intake runners sport a significant amount of rust which makes me wonder what is the condition of the cylinders with open valves. The radiator while not in the engine compartment is sitting in the trunk. Rotate the fan to find the engine moves fairly easily and not seized up. Raise the concern about the internal condition of this B18 after sitting this long and the owner says they can include another B18 with the car. This donor engine was rebuilt 20K miles ago but the car it was in ended up getting in an accident. The engine was pulled before the car was scrapped.

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The interior is actually decent for its age. The carpet is missing completely though this makes inspecting the floors much easier. Lots of surface rust but not gaping holes. Going into the car, there is a strong aroma of varnished gasoline. The headliner has a large rip down the first front seam. The trunk also smells heavily of varnish so a new gas tank will definitely be needed for this car.

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Head back to San Francisco and start to mull over whether to pick up the cars. While the wagon could be brought back to life, it is a pass for me mainly because of the floors. Conversely, the coupe seems to have a strong foundation. That said, with the long hiatus off the road any system which held fluid will need to be renovated and/or replaced. While going back and forth with the owner, find out he needs to get more paperwork from the estate of the PPO. Asking about any additional parts available, find out there are a couple M41 transmission available. Finally we settle on $2K for the 122, rebuilt B18 engine engine, set of SU Carbs, two M41s, M41 driveshaft, chrome rims, some exterior parts, and they will bring the car to San Francisco. Sold!

Two weeks ago the 122 finally arrives. The reason I am able to get the car delivered, they are also picking up a P1800 to take back north to Marin. We are able to get the car off the trailer easier than I expect with the car having no brakes at all. Once offloading the car, set upon the task of removing the B18 and M41s out of the bed of their pickup truck. The first order of business will be taking each wheel off and inspecting the brake system. At minimum I would like to be able to stop the car when required, especially from the hand brake.

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Diving into the 1967 122

After getting the 122 situated in the workspace, time to take a deeper assessment. The engine is missing the starter though one came mounted on the spare engine. Rotate the engine and note the rear wheels do not move. This means the clutch is not fused against the flywheel, something likely to happen to a car sitting for a couple decades. Remove the valve cover and the valve train is surprisingly free of any sludge, build up, or debris. Even more surprising there is wet oil sitting in the depressions. Turn the engine to watch the rocker arms and everything moves up and down as originally designed. No stuck or sticky valves which makes me wonder if someone had been periodically starting the car. The valve cover is reattached back onto the cylinder head. Continue to hand spin the engine until seeing the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley. Using a wire brush and some spray cleaner, scrub down that area of the pulley. The “0” is highlighted with a sharpie temporarily until I can locate a paint marker. While working in the engine compartment is when I notice one of the previous owners has installed a hood blanket. This is something I have not seen in a 122 before.

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While the brakes are a high priority on the 122, decide to spend some time to check out on the electrical system. Do not see much evidence of rodent infestation in the car but there are some droppings along the top of the engine. The engine bay wiring looks to be intact and not chewed up. There are several unconnected wires on the left hand side to figure out where they are suppose to go. Inspecting the fuse box, start to clean the connectors then decide to just replace it out.. (These are available new through Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G2PPKHP/) Picked up a couple of these a year or two ago while sorting out my other 1967 122 project. The #1 slot was modified to use the longer 25 amp bullet fuse by bending the arm up, trimming it with a Dremel then drilling a hole to better seat and increase the contact area of the fuse. While undoing the connector going in to #4 position broke apart while pulling on it. Crimp a replacement onto the wire to deal with that issue.

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Throw a battery into the tray and start to figure out how to get power to the car’s electrical system. Since the car is missing the starter, need to find a way to bridge this temporarily. End up getting a nut and bolt to temporarily join the leads which normally would be connected at the starter solenoid. Secure the leads on the battery and the search for smoke and/or sparks begins. Seeing, smelling and hearing nothing amiss, get behind the front seat to turn the key. As it hits the first position, the generator and oil light start to glow while the gas gauge pegs to the right side of the gauge face. Start going through the dash switches, the fan does not activate, the lights do not illuminate and the wiper switch is stuck fast. Flick the turn signal stalk to find the green dash light is blinking along with the bulbs at the front and rear of the car. Press down on the brake pedal but nothing happens in the taillights. This is kind of expected as there probably isn’t much fluid in the brake lines. Turn the ignition off and remove the positive lead off the battery. Later in the evening begin to look up the wiring diagram for the car and noticed the wire for #3 position was mistakenly put on the #2 connector (white wire) so that may be the source of the issue with the headlights not illuminating.

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Rectify the errant connector and put it back on its proper place on the #3 fuse connector. Hook up the battery to recheck the lighting. Pull back on the switch and the instrument cluster starts to glow the familiar green. Checking each corner to find 3 of the 4 running lights working. The main headlights are still dark. This could be an issue in the floor high beam dip switch, wiring or blown bulbs. Decide to dig into the headlights at some other time. After struggling with going through the black and white wiring diagram, spend a little time constructing a color version of the wiring for easier reading/interpreting. After going through this exercise, one “A-ha!” moment happens when realizing all the wires match going into the fuse box. #1 has red wires on both sides, #2: brown, #3: white, and #4: black. Something I probably wouldn't have noticed unless I spent the time tracing all of the wiring routes.

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Give the engine bay a bit of a clean up as I’ll be spending a bit of time in there when it comes time to pull the engine out. Spray some Super Clean around the greasy areas of the engine bay and it does a good job taking care of the dirt and grime. After a bit of effort, it is surprising to encounter how the paint on top of the wheel arch area is in such good condition. Meanwhile, the back of the engine bay and the firewall area sports a fair bit of surface rust which will need to be dealt with. Stop by the local full-service hardware store (Center Hardware) with the dashboard ashtray. Alas, do not find anything close in a spray can to Volvo's Light Green (code 91) paint color.

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Next: Brakes
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Front Brakes: Rubber Hose Replacement and the Removing the Calipers

With this 122 dormant for so long, I am not looking forward to an extended wrestling match with the brake lines/connectors/etc. After lifting the front end up onto jack stands remove the drivers side tire. First job is to soak each one of the connections with penetrant oil. Try the bleeder nipple and it turns and loosens without a problem or much resistance. Hit the steel line fittings with some heat then spray more penetrant on it to cool it down. Tap/strike it with a end of a wrench several times. Utilizing flair wrenches, test each one of the connectors to see if they release. Surprisingly, the master cylinder fitting yields quickly as does the upper one into the rubber line in the wheel well. The lower connection turns out to be quite tenacious and does not budge. I am able to undo the steel line into the caliper so I decide to remove the caliper all together.

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The lockdown tabs are in place at the caliper bolts, those are tapped flat using a screwdriver and a mallet. The ¾” bolts are loosened and the caliper slides away from the rotor. Put it on a table to give it a once-over. The rubber seal for the dual piston side has the consistency of the top of a creme brulee. The seal breaks apart and shatters into small fragments even when gently pressing on it. Remarkably, the seal on the large single piston side is still pliable and even a bit springy. Wonder if the dual pistons had seized up causing the degradation of the seal from the resulting heat. Attempt to compress the pistons, but they do not want to move. Continue to spray penetrant along with heat on the lower connector every couple days After two weeks it finally releases its hold on the rubber line. Amazingly, I am able to blow through the rubber line, it has not swelled completely shut. The replacement hose is installed into place.

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Heading over to the passenger side, the same process is done there. Instead of two and a half weeks to get everything apart, it takes a little over an hour. When removing the caliper, it leaks out brake fluid, something I did not expect to encounter. On the work table, go through the process of removing the hardware and pads. Both seals, while having surface cracks, are in remarkable shape for how old they are. The biggest surprise is when all of the pistons move when attempting to compress them. When the large, single piston is engaged, it ends up shooting a small fountain of brake fluid across the table and almost hitting the 122 a few feet away. Plan to dive into the passenger caliper to see if it can be rebuilt, the drivers side one seems to be probably too far gone. Install the replacement rubber line into the right side system. The other unexpected find is the condition of the dust shields. They still retain their black paint, so do not know if they had been replaced out at some point or are in fact original.,

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While working on the front brakes, take the time to inspect the suspension parts as well. The driver’s side ends up having a couple issues. First is the outer tie rod with a split boot. Second is discovering the bent shock absorber mounting stud at the bottom a-arm. New shock absorbers have always been on the to-replace list for this 122, just may take a little more effort. While working on undoing the brake lines connectors, this is also happening with the hydraulic clutch fittings. The main line coming out of the clutch master cylinder is refusing to budge so that fight is still ongoing. Caliper seal kits have been ordered, once those arrive I will dig into the calipers to see if they are in fact rebuildable.

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You really enjoy the resuscitation process, obviously. :) And you know exactly what to look for. Yet another, well done.


But I must admit: even if it's temporary, seeing an uninsulated bolt casually draped near metal grounds everywhere makes me nervous...
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You really enjoy the resuscitation process, obviously. :) And you know exactly what to look for. Yet another, well done.


But I must admit: even if it's temporary, seeing an uninsulated bolt casually draped near metal grounds everywhere makes me nervous...

Well, there are varying levels of satisfaction when working on projects like this. The best is when work goes way easier than planned, whether it is a simple task or a complicated and difficult operation. It is having to redo something or if a repair goes off the rails is when these projects get frustrating. So far I am kind surprised how easily parts/fittings/fasteners are coming apart on this car.

Understand the reaction to the bolt set up. Have since installed a starter into the engine so these wires can return to their normal placement in the engine bay. Planning on trying to start the engine currently in the car before swapping it out for the rebuilt B18 which came with the car.


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122S Hydraulic Systems Continued:

While working on the drivers side caliper, other work has been happening in the engine bay on the 122. Start to try and undo the main connector on the brake master cylinder. The MC is high on the to-replace list so this line will need to be removed. Like the other brake lines, subject it to a couple of rounds of head and penetrating oil before putting a flared wrench on it. After a few gentle taps with a screwdriver handle the main connector loosens and after a bit more application of lube, it begins to easily rotate just by using my fingertips.

As mentioned previously, the clutch master cylinder continues to be a bit of a fight. After three weeks of attempts, it still refuses to budge after numerous applications of heat and penetrating oil. Hit it again with the butane lighter for an extended period and this time position a wrench on the nipple side and the fitting finally surrenders. The rubber line is detached from the upper connector and the slave cylinder is removed off of the bellhousing mount. Inspecting the hard line off of the clutch master cylinder it does have a small crease from being torqued while trying to remove it. It is still a bit surprising to see how much debris is sitting in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. The brake MC looks pretty much the same as well.

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After installing the battery for the initial test of the electrical system, start to try and diagnose some of the issues initially encountered. After seeing the lack of headlights when pulling out the light switch start by removing the drivers side headlight. Using some jumper wires, hook it up to the battery and it illuminates. Heading downstream, unplug the rectangular 6-pin connector located just above the steering box. Check for 12V and there is none to be found. Right now I am assuming this is probably an issue with the floor mounted dipper switch so now thinking about doing a bypass and using the turn signal stalk for the high beam activation mod. (https://www.ipdusa.com/Articles/583...n-Your-Vintage-Volvo-to-the-Turn-Signal-Stalk) To test the brake lights, the two leads are taken off the pressure switch on the firewall and connected together. Check the back of the car and at least the passenger side is working.

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What I find really interesting is the condition of the driver's side headlight bucket. It is in a practically new condition, which is in direct contrast to the nose piece of the car and all the rust/corrosion found there. Just like the dust covers on the front hubs, it seems somewhat out of place with the unblemished paint.

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Another system to test is if the temperature sender and dash gauge are still operational. Unlike the gas gauge, this is a mechanical gauge utilizing ether in a capillary tube. It expands as it heats up causing the needle on the dash to move accordingly. If the capillary tube is breached in anyway the either will quickly evaporate and the temp gauge will be DOA. Remove the temp sensor bulb from the cylinder head using a crow’s foot wrench. Once that is out, boil a cup of water in the microwave and insert it into the liquid. Using a fluid is the way to test these type of temperature senders. Do not use a direct flame like a match or a lighter as that is a too direct/high of a heat source and will kill the sensor bulb. Check the dash to find the temperature gauge needle has moved to the right.

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After replacing the front brake hoses, it is time to tackle the one for the rear drums. This line is just in front of the rear axle just after the proportioning valve. Just like the front, apply heat and penetrant on the front fitting, Next slide the u-shaped clip retaining the front rubber hose section from the body mount. With a flared wrench on the fitting and an open end wrench on the rubber line, squeeze together the two wrenches. After a grunt or two, it comes loose with no issues. The new lines goes in without any fuss and now all of the soft lines have been replaced.

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Next: Tackling the Rear Drums

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Coming along nicely! Dad taught me, " Heat it, then give it a couple of coats of hammer". Folks underestimate the value of shock loading those threaded connections.
 
The Rear Drums: Way Easier Than Expected

Position a hydraulic jack under the differential, lift up the rear of the car to put it on jackstands. Remove the drivers side tire to access the cotter pin and castle nut on the axle. It takes a couple minutes to bend, straighten and remove the cotter pin from its perch. While I have my Dewalt impact gun at the ready, find the castle nut is finger loose to my surprise. Spin the nut out to align the outer side of it along the end of axle threads. Attach the hub puller into place and tighten down the lugnuts to fully secure it. At this point, discover the threads on one of the lug studs is pretty much fubar’d. Another item to put on the shopping list. The brake drum slides off of the tapered axle with barely any effort. This is surprising as I expected a bit of a fight to get this apart. The brake drum is taken off revealing an interior with a coating of dust and some cobwebs. Seeing the relative ease of removal of the hub off the axle, It looks like someone else has already removed these pieces somewhat recently. Go over to the passenger side to repeat this procedure. After removing the tire off, pull on the lug studs to discover the brake drum is loose on the axle. There is almost ¼’ gap between the castle nut and the edge of the brake and the outer shoulder of the drum. A length of metal and not a cotter pin has been stuck in the hole to keep the castle nut in place. More evidence of this being removed recently.

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Inspecting the brake drums, the linings have a good amount of meat on them, but find the leading one all torn up in the middle. Most likely from sitting too long and being adhered to the drum. Before disassembling everything, wrap a paper towel around the axle end for some protection from debris. First is undoing the upper spring and next is removing the locking washers off of the retaining pin. The leading shoe is now free and the trailing shoe is removed in the same steps. Once all the hardware is off, it is time to bring out some degreaser and a nylon brush. As mentioned in the previous post, this is another part on the 122 which is in surprisingly good condition. While there are spots of corrosion, there is still a fair amount black paint remaining. Comparing the old shoes to the new ones, an unexpected issue will be transferring the hand brake lever to the new shoes. The lever is riveted onto the shoe so will need to figure out how to remount that properly.

- If you have a recommendation on remounting the lever onto the new shoes, please post about it.

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The last item to remove is the wheel cylinder. The threads for the brake line fitting are hit with the combo of heat and penetrating oil. It surrenders easily and unthreads in short order. Remove the two 7/16’ mounting bolts to free the wheel cylinder from the back plate. The rubber covers at either end are in really good condition. While there is some slight cracking, they are not overly hardened and retain some elasticity. Try pressing in the plunger on either side, one side moves a little then becomes stuck fast so it is a paperweight at this point. Bring out the replacement wheel cylinders to find the wrong ones have been ordered. They turn out to be for 122s with front drums and not the larger rear unit. The proper ones are promptly ordered, though unfortunately between this and figuring out how to transfer the lever to the new shoes, work on the brakes has to take a break.

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In spite of the wait for the parts, one thing I can do is swap in a replacement for the broken axle limiting strap on the drivers side. A hydraulic jack raises the axle to the correct length of the new strap. The 9/16” bolt going into the frame has a good deal of undercoating material adhered onto it. Scrape this layer off using a screwdriver and remove the bolt out once the sides are fully clean. Undo the fastener to the axle and install the new strap into place. The jack is lowered down and the strap stretches and tightens when taking the weight of the axle. While under the car, scrape off the undercoating off the tag on the pumpkin to find the 122 has a 4:10 rear end.

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Next: New Shocks

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Drill that rivet out on the lever holding it to the brake shoe. That's another 'someones been in here' item. It's supposed to be a pin with a C shaped clip holding the lever to the shoe. You bend the clip so it's tight to the pin. You can get that hardware from VP Autoparts. You can also use the VW beetle C clip if I recall correctly.
 
The brake lever is retained by the spreader bar. It has a longer hooked end on it that goes behind the shoe to keep the lever in place.
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The pivot pin should not be peened and there is no fastener unless it has pin type wheel cylinders. Then it uses a different spreader bar and a lever that has a groove in the pivot pin for a spring clip.
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@highperfauto Thanks for correcting me once again. I think I recall the VW clip is what I used long ago on my car. When I didn't have the correct part like someone used the rivet above.
 
Appreciate the feedback, information, and assistance regarding the e-brake lever on the rear brake shoe. Was able to get it figured out with help from hiperfauto and others. Thank you for responding back to my request of assistance, I wIll be covering that in more detail in a future post.


Preface
August and the beginning of September have turned out to be a pretty busy time. While I have continued to make progress on the 122, writing up what has happened has been another story. The big event for August was attending Car Week in Monterey. Having secured campsites next to one another, a group of friends set up our observation post at Turn 5 at Laguna Seca for the historic races. We also hit events around the area such as the Lil Car Show (low displacement vehicles), Tour D'Elegance, Legends of the Autobahn, Concorso Italiano, Auctions etc.

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Lil Car Show
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Tour d' Elegance
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Bring a Trailer Reunion at Laguna Seca
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In prepping for Laguna Seca, began readying my 1995 Eurovan Campervan for the trip. After starting it up and letting it idle, it began to periodically stall. Thought this might be old gas so drove it to a nearby station to put in some fresh juice. On the way back it stalled out again. Limped it back to my friend's Alex's driveway where it died and then refused to restart. The abbreviated version is it was suffering from a bad Hall sensor. Was able to liberate one from a 1997 Cabrio at the Oakland PicknPull and get the Eurovan back to operational status. During the bench testing of the Hall sensor, used a 12V power supply, a mulitmeter and a LED light to test if the sensor was working or not. Used a distributor from a 240 as the control. In order to be able to field test this at the PicknPull, figured out a 9V battery could be utilized as the power supply and we could make sure the donor is usable before leaving the boneyard. (Full story at TheSamba.)

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Back to the 1967 122: Assessing the Gas Tank

While waiting for brake parts to arrive, decide to dive into the fuel tank. Even when initially inspecting it, going into the cabin or in/around the trunk, a strong varnish aroma permeates the air. While this certainly is no surprise from how long the 122 has been off the road, I need to figure out how much gas/varish/sludge/gunk remains in the tank. Since the gas gauge pegs to over the full mark, want to extract that out first to examine it. Assume it will be a rusty mess after changing out these things in other derelict cars.

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Clean up the scale and corrosion around the perimeter of the sending unit. Because the screws are rusty, want to clean out the channels as best I can to increase the chance of actually removing them and not destroying the Philips head in the process. Use a small screwdriver tip to clear out the perpendicular passages. The first attempt I get one fastener to unscrew, after about 15-20 minutes all of them have been successfully removed with a screwdriver or a set of vice grips. The sending unit is in pretty rough shape with a good bit of rusty corrosion on it. The rubber seal perished long ago.

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With a flashlight peer into the tank to find it mostly empty. There is a good deal of sludge on the bottom of the tank. Need to borrow a boroscope to see what the sides and top look like. Go under the car to scrape off the undercoating around the exit fitting. Using a bit of pressure with a flared wrench, the connector slowly starts to move and then unthreads with ease. Tighten that back into place and head to the front of the car.

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With the help of an air compressor, shoot air in the hard line in the engine compartment. Hear a faint burble/hissing from the rear of the car which is a positive sign. Hand over the air line to my friend Alex to have him shoot it through the fuel line. Leaning into the trunk he hits the trigger producing a hiss from the gas tank. I am then hit full force by a toxic cloud of varnish emanating from the sender opening, causing a hasty retreat while gasping for some fresh air. Decide that most likely a new tank is in order, pull the trigger and order a new one from IPD. SInce the hard part will be removing the mounting screws from the perimeter of the tank, begin the process of cleaning the crap from around each one of them and hit them with penetrant.

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Next: Engine & Shocks

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Going through the B18

When the 122 was delivered, along with the engine in the car came a rebuilt B18 engine with around 20K miles on the clock. The original engine was not complete, the carbs were in the trunk, starter MIA (probably harvested for another redblock), and no front coolant hoses (the radiator was in the trunk with the SUs.) Starting to dig into the car, I went back and forth on whether I should pull the engine to install the rebuilt one or attempt to light it off before doing the transplant. Finally settled on attempting to start it as is to better assess the overall condition of the original engine.

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The plan is to see if the engine is able to start and if there are any expen$ive sounds or conditions. This is the unknown when acquiring a barn find, you never really know why the car was parked and abandoned in the first place. Figure apathy is a leading candidate, but then again it could be some sort of mechanical issue or a broken major component which sidelined the car. Since the coolant hoses are missing, want to take a look at the state of the passages in the block. Remove the bolts holding the thermostat housing onto the cylinder head. While not pretty it is not as bad as some other engines I have seen. There is all sorts of fall-colored detritus sitting under the thermostat. Will probably start running some vinegar through the block.

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Grabbed the starter from the donor engine, but this was not straight-forward. The solenoid is wiggly due to a missing fastener. A replacement is sourced from a core starter in the collection and installed into place. The SUs sitting in the trunk are rather crusty looking so I grab the pair from the 1965 1800S which is currently sporting a Weber because of the supercharger set up. Those are slapped onto the intake manifold and the linkages are reattached. Open up the top of the bowls to find they need to be given a cleaning. First spray some compressed air to evacuate the bit of debris and follow up with shots of brake cleaner. Once the chambers are clean reinstall the lids and install the replacement fuel hose between the two. Pop open the distributor cap to check its condition as well as the points. Hit the points with a bit of sandpaper and confirm there is a .020” gap. Open up the side oiler knob to drip some oil in to help lube the distributor. Inspect the wiring between the coil and the distributor and hook up a timing light to make sure there is spark.

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Pull the battery out of my other 122 and reattach the main lead to the starter. Recheck the wiring in the engine block and determine it is time to crank the engine over. Spray some ether into the carb openings, press down the gas pedal and hit the starter button. The engine cranks over at a fast enough pace and chugs away for several seconds. Give another blast of starting fluid into the carbs and try again. This time the engine starts to turn over at a faster rate, it feels like its almost ready to fire when it slows down again after going through the starting fluid. It seems like at least one cylinder is firing though not enough are in order to keep the engine self-sustaining with the rotation. Set up again for another attempt, press the starter button to unexpectedly hear the sound of electrical type “Bzzzzttt” noise. Suddenly the electrical system goes completely dead, no dash lights, running lights, and definitely no starter. Figure the issue maybe in the ignition switch/starter button but have run out of time. Have to diagnose this later as the next day I’m heading to Colorado for 5 days to attend my niece's wedding.

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Next: The Shocks

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Time Capsule Shock Absorbers

After returning from the festivities in Colorado work shifts to back under the 122 again. With each corner up on jackstands and the brakes still a work in progress, it is time to focus on the shocks. In preparation, order a set of KYB Excel-Gs from RockAuto as the replacements. Since there are Bilsteins on my 123GT, I want to see/experience what the difference will be between them as a set of four KYBs is slightly more expensive than a single Bilstein.

Start with the rear driver’s side which means accessing the mount inside the trunk. Using a vice grip to hold the threaded stud, use a 9/16” wrench to remove the upper nut. Quickly remove the bottom nut with an impact gun. Extract out what looks to be ancient shock absorber with a spiral channel cast into the bottom section. Faded blue paint is visible on the bottom section with “Delco Products Dayton Ohio USA” visible along with a few part numbers. Also included is what looks to be a date code of “46 66” stamped into the metal. Assume the OEM, factory shocks would be something of European origin (Sachs etc.), though these could have been easily replaced out at any time with domestic units. Install the new KYB in place and tighten down all of the mounting nuts. Repeat the same procedure on the passenger side and find the Delco shock has the same “46 66” stamped on it.

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Heading to the front set, once again start on the drivers side. Just after acquiring the 122 and going under it, one of the items I noticed is the damage to the bottom of this shock. The bottom stud was struck at some point and is now at an angle coming out of the mounting plate. First step is putting a jack under the rotor hub to compress the spring a bit and relieve tension on the shock absorber. Next is undoing the two mounting plate fasteners. After loosing the top nut, the shock can slide out through the bottom of the assembly. Move this to a vise and use a cutting wheel on a Dremel to remove the bent section of thread. Take a wire brush to the mounting plate to remove all the corrosion and accumulated dirt. Once cleaning that off, the plate is hit with a layer of primer then black paint. The opposing front side is straightforward to remove and clean off, paint the mounting plate after removing that. In comparing these two units, the drivers side has a “48 66” date code while the passenger side has “166 66”. What I thought was week/year looks to be day/year instead. After letting the mounting plates dry overnight, install the two KYB shocks into place.

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What is also pretty evident while working on the shocks and brakes is the condition of the rubber bushings. Every single one will need to be replaced out, not so much because they are worn out but rather due to their age and overall deterioration. Part of the expectation of working on a 57 year-old Volvo.

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Next: Work Resumes on the B18

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