1967 122S Coupe Rehab: Waking An Amazon After A 40-Year Hibernation

[Toybox]

After a couple cranks there is a “whoomp!” from the engine bay and through the windshield see orange flames rising up from the front carb. Quickly jump out [...] Well, I do stop long enough to take a picture of the front carb on fire.

Congrats, you are the only person I've ever known to take time for photos before snuffing out flames.

But if you feel the need to up your game... next time we want video.

 

[polaris]

I work at the pump station down that street towards the traffic light whenever it breaks. I didn’t know you were in bayshore. Small world. Let me know if you ever need a hand.

Appreciate that, though I've been out of there for 3 months now. Trying to catch up on writing up the There has been somewhat of an exodus from tenants of industrial complex due to issues with the Property Manager and Property Management Company. Word is the high-end restoration shop will be out by the end of the year. Our space was probably the only one which contained "hobbyist". Because it was a commercial building lease the master tenant had to carry Workman's comp insurance for the space.

Congrats, you are the only person I've ever known to take time for photos before snuffing out flames.

But if you feel the need to up your game... next time we want video.

I have had a few people now comment about the wisdom of stopping to document the fire before putting it out. Thought it was worth capturing as it wasn't a raging fire all over the engine.


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When It Rains, It Pours

Because of the current condition of the clogged & leaking radiator, the sub-optimal brakes, and the juice container gas tank, I am not sure it would be a wise decision to try and drive the 122 back to its garage. While it is less than 5 miles and about 15-20 minutes travel time, I will have to climb at least one significant hill along the way. Flush out the first radiator originally installed the 122 and a decent amount of light-colored flakes and debris washing out onto the pavement. After seeing what comes out of the radiator, decide to tow the car as that is the reason to have AAA’s premium package in my back pocket. More importantly, I am running out of time. Take the time to see if an aluminum and plastic radiator from a 240 would be small enough for a temporary fit. It looks like it might with some work, but would need to account for the different mounting and overflow tank set up. If I had another couple of days it would be worth trying but the clock has run out on the Amazon. Talk with the master tenant of the shop, he says it is fine to keep the 122 parked in one of the outside spots for a couple days. Just leave some (decent) beer in the kitchen refrigerator in exchange. With a new tenant moving into the shop, he wants to make sure the indoor space is ready on the first day of the month for them.

With the Amazon requiring assistance to get home, plan on driving the 123GT and 1800S out of the shop space. On the second to last day, the first car to head out will be the 1800S to its new garage space in SF with Alex as escort in case something happens. Start it up and let it idle for 5-7 minutes. Signalling I’m ready, put it into gear and the engine immediately stalls out. The engine begrudgingly starts but is barely running and idling. After several successive restarts, decide to abandon driving this car. The 1800S has a tough time getting back into the garage where I’m forced to use the starter and Alex pushing to help get it up the small incline into the shop.

Not to waste Alex’s time, start up the 123GT to take that car instead. As I’m driving it through the main door, it too stalls out. Turning the ignition key, it is just silence from the engine bay. The starter is not activating at all and now wondering if that just gave up the ghost. In the darkness turn the key several times in a row hoping to get the starter to work. Not watching what I am doing, end up breaking off in the lock. “꩜!#?𖦹!” as the esteemed Q*Bert muttered… The ignition is stuck in the #1 position after 10 minutes of unsuccessfully trying to turn the lock back to the 0 position, decide to cut my losses, push it back into my space, unhook the leads from the battery and call it a night. This evening has just turned into quite the disaster.

Next: The Great Migration

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[Toybox]

I have had a few people now comment about the wisdom of stopping to document the fire before putting it out. Thought it was worth capturing as it wasn't a raging fire all over the engine.

Don't get me wrong -- my comments are of admiration.

It's true that a single shot of starting fluid will burn for only a very short time. If it hadn't been for the paper in the filter element, the flames could even have extinguished all by themselves.

But having the cojones to keep your mind totally cool while that happens... impressive.

 

[polaris]

Don't get me wrong -- my comments are of admiration.

It's true that a single shot of starting fluid will burn for only a very short time. If it hadn't been for the paper in the filter element, the flames could even have extinguished all by themselves.

But having the cojones to keep your mind totally cool while that happens... impressive.

And don't get me wrong, didn't perceive your comments as being negative. It was about you were not the only person to have made the same comment about stopping to capture the moment.


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AAA to the Rescue

On the last day of my tenancy, I return to the 123GT to figure out if this issue is due to the starter, wiring or the ignition switch. First task is getting the key remnant extracted out of the ignition switch. It is currency stuck in the #1 position which also means the ignition system is also energized. To remove the key it must be in the off (12:00) position. The advantage of it being in the #1 position is this should allow the lock assembly to be removed from the ignition switch body. After an hour of struggling I am unable to either rotate the key or press in the small button to release the lock.

In the trunk are not one but two ignition switch/coil/armored cables. A used one complete with a key with the other being NOS and still in its shrink-wrapped packaging. The plan is to run a 12V lead off of the original ignition switch to the spare one which is connected into the starter solenoid. This way will leave the ignition system on as well as a way to start the engine. With the wiring in place, connect the battery back up. With the amp and oil light shining brightly on the dash, unfortunately turning the key does not activate the starter at all. Pondering the situation, assume this spare ignition is also suffering from a defective starter circuit. Probably the reason it was in the trunk in the first place. Rewire it so the starter solenoid activates at the #1 position. Turn the key and the engine roars to life much to my relief. Once I know I can start the 123GT, it is driven outside to join the 122.

https://flic.kr/p/2r9XFqw

Go back to the 1800S to run the electrical fuel pump to check the gas. Mostly fill a half gallon plastic bottle and it is more gold colored than clear. Two distinct layers form, meaning water has entered the tank, most likely happening when it was given a bath several days before. This heads outside to join the other in the parking spots outside the shop. Proceed to pack the Eurovan with the last load of shelving and other assorted items. At 6:50pm finish up the last of the sweeping and pull the Eurovan out of the shop into the dark evening. Drop off the Eurovan and catch a ride with Alex to the warehouse to pick up the 123GT. Just before leaving, my friend Armando texts saying to come over for chili and cocktails. It is an uneventful drive back and getting it into its new garage space, Alex and I head over for a most welcome respite as well as decompressing from the move.

The next morning dial up AAA to tow the 1800S to a newly rented garage space. The wait turns out to be brief as there is a towing company several doors down who take the request. The 1800 is hooked up to the wrecker and I follow it to its new home. Several days later repeat this with the 122S having AAA tow the Amazon to my garage space. Again, the journey is quick and uneventful.

About a week later, continue the work on the 123GT trying to either turn the key back to the 0 position or be able to press the locking pin in to release the lock from the collar of the ignition switch. Removing the lock assembly is only able to be done when the key is in the position 1. Focus first on trying to rotate the lock back to the 0 position with several different small bladed screwdrivers and pick with no success. Next is trying to depress the locking pin which also turns out to be futile. After about an hour, switch back to getting the key to turn and eventually it finally rotates and I can extract the broken piece out. Insert a spare key and it operates just fine. Planning on installing a push-button in the meantime and will probably remove the armored cable set up all together. The next surprise comes a few weeks later while repositioning the car in the garage, While turning the steering wheel, it suddenly becomes loose. Look under the hood to find the coupler in the steering column has suffered from a rapid disassembly. Yet something else to fix, though glad this happened in the garage and not while driving it around.

Next: Keeping Cool

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[polaris]

Getting the 122 Ready for Longer Drives

Since the move has been completed, work on the 122 can now turn from it simply running to being a runner. With the new engine installed and some test drives under its belt, it is time to give the redblock a check-up. Dig out the compression tester and remove the spark plugs. The plugs are dark and sooty. Not too surprising as the car has not been driven at high speeds for any real length of time. Grab my compression tester and take readings from the redblock. They come in at 150 PSI across the board. Very happy with the results and consistency of the cylinders.

About 10 or so years ago read a post on the proper maintenance & lubrication of distributors with points. Besides periodic wetting of the felt pad under the rotor and adminstering a few drops into the oiler fitting, there is also the need for proper lubing of the points cam. At the time I started searching for a small tube of Bosch grease referenced in the article. Unfortunately, it was not to be found as it was listed everywhere as NLA. One option I found was getting the large tube (approx 8 oz./225ml) of distributor grease which at the time was about $20. Way more than I could ever use in a lifetime of wrenching. About 6 months later, discover Bosch has discontinued this large-sized, lube-tube as well. As part of general maintenance and after the compression test, the 122’s distributor cam received a fresh application of grease. Over the next several days all of the distributors in my pushrod-powered Volvos receive a fresh coating of lubrication.

During the move out of the warehouse pull the trigger on purchasing an eBay replacement aluminum radiator. For a while I have been curious whether these are generally worthwhile or worthless. Have not really come across any postings on TB around these aftermarket radiators, pro or con so it was time to find out for myself. There are two general types of the 122 radiators, early and late (with brackets for the side mounted overflow tank.) A couple weeks after the late-type radiator arrives, finally begin the installation process. Comparing old and new, they are pretty similar but not exact. For example, the bottom tank is more angular and deeper than the OEM one. Transfer the rubber grommets onto the new radiator and slide it down in front of the fan. Trying to seat the two mounting bolts into the nose, it is quickly apparent the holes on the aluminum radiator do not really line up correctly. After some back and forth, both mounting bolts finally start to thread.

Reattach the upper and lower coolant hoses and there is not any issue. When looking at the mounting tabs for the overflow tank, they have not been fashioned in manner to actually receive the bottle. Pull out some needle nose vice grips to bend these tabs into a proper orientation for it to tightly side into. This is probably the largest PITA encountered during the install. Plumb the tank and pour the coolant back into the radiator. Run the engine to get it up to temp and burp out any air. Top it off the next day and so far the radiator has been working just fine. There is still a coolant leak at the water pump, though it is still quite small.

As previously mentioned, the 122 utilizes a ½ gallon juice container as a fuel reservoir. It is time to graduate to something larger. A couple months previously, I had acquired a 3 gallon boat tank while helping a friend check out a barn home to several motorcycles, a couple of boats and lots of ephemera. Placed the boat tank in the passenger footwell, snake the 6 feet of fuel line through a hole of the firewall to hook it into the fuel pump. While testing this out, notice gas spewing out from the top of the bowl. Undo the lid to check the needle valve and float. Reinstall the top and the leak has subsided. With a working radiator and larger fuel tank, the 122 now has the capability for longer drives, not just ones around the immediate neighborhood.

Next: Addressing the Coolant Leak at the Water Pump

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[Red Amazon]

Congrats, you are the only person I've ever known to take time for photos before snuffing out flames.

But if you feel the need to up your game... next time we want video.

I just bought some (3) 2 gram containers of that Bosch grease from an outfit in Texas. Given the usual size is "NLA", I went on the hunt. It sounds like the guys I bought it from usually cater to VW and Porsche people, but were happy to oblige me. I figured 2 grams (one container) might last the lifetime of me and my both old Amazon. One will stay in the car, the other in a toolbox...somewhere, and the 3rd I may end up giving to some grateful soul in my old varnish club network- another local Amazon owner.

 

[polaris]

Persistent Coolant Leak and Incremental Improvements

When working on the 122, there are times when I have several hours available to wrench on it and other times it may be more accurately measured in minutes. Revival projects like this always seem to have a list of small, incremental improvements. There are a couple things which are able to be addressed in 15-30 minutes. One is checking the license plate light bulbs. Initially both sides are dark, though rotating the passenger side brings it back to life while the drivers side one is DOA. Locate another bulb and spend 30 seconds to clean off the contacts on both lighting units. After a friend of mine gives me several sections of yoga mat-like material, those are placed in the foot wells as a temporary covering as the rubber mats have long since disappeared.

While the B18 in the 122S is running pretty smoothly, the steady drip of coolant at the front of the engine is still kind of perplexing. Late one evening while thinking about the leak, it hits me one aspect I have not checked the headbolts on this motor. When the car and the extra engine first arrived at my old shop space, the rear-most headbolt next to the temp sensor was loose. I figured it had been used for a lift point when the engine was removed out of its former home. Began to wonder if the front headbolt had also been used this way. The next morning open up the hood and remove the valve cover and damned if that front bolt is sitting slightly high. Snugged it back down and the coolant leak is now in the past tense. Looking back at photos of the engine, can definitely see this front fastener standing proud of the cylinder head, something I never caught or noticed.

Installing the B18in January, front headbolt is not fully seated:

https://flic.kr/p/2rtR1G6

https://flic.kr/p/2rtR5FY

Another nagging issue on the 122 is the hood will close but never fully latch. When leaving the warehouse space I ended up using a bungee cord to secure the hood down to the front bumper when it was about to be towed. Address this first by looking at the orientation of the hood latching mechanism as it goes into the receiver on the front valence. Adjust the position a dozen times and it still refuses to fully latch. Stepping back to assess the front end, that is when I realize the valence area is actually drooping downward due to a hit on the main pillar just beneath the nose. My hunch is the main locking pin on the hood needs to drop down a bit to properly engage the latch. This pin proves to be unmoveable after multiple attempts to extend its reach.

Locate a spare 240 strut brace on my garage wall and lever that against the backside of the pillar to try to straighten it out, After pushing against the dents, they slowly flex out forward which intern begins to raise the nose as well. The drooping is corrected a bit but not quite enough. Locate a few washers to use as shims and put that under the plate to lower the mechanism on the hood. Press down to close the hood and for the first time if fully latches in place.

https://flic.kr/p/2rtJE9c

Next: Window Winder Woes

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[TouzinFish]

Those shims were a good idea, nice work!

 

[polaris]

Addressing the Non-Working Windows

The next area to tackle are the door windows which are both off their winder chains. The 122 arrived with non-functioning windows which was not really an issue when parked in the warehouse space, Now that the 122 is parked on the street, the windows are being kept upright by wooden wedges and this is a short term solution at best. Remove the door panel to access the winder mechanism. It does take some time to remove the omega clips retaining the door and window handles. The best tool is a tiny Allen wrench clamped into a small set of vicegrips. After removing the door panel, attempts to reinstall the chain turns into a futile effort. Start looking through my service manuals and only find written instructions without any supporting diagrams or images. Eventually I locate a diagram of the path of the chain on VP’s website, though it is low-resolution in quality. That is when I notice one of the tensioners had been improperly positioned by someone previously working on this same door. Reinstalling it with the alignment tab coming though its proper opening in the door skin the chain had the pathway and tension to raise and lower the window. Apply some lubricant to the chain as well. The tensioner located at the bottom of the door did need to be adjusted to reduce the slack with the winding chain. Tested opening/closing several times and once satisfied the chain at the correct tension, reinstall the door panel as well as all of the handles.

https://flic.kr/p/2rtNUCZ

Doing the same with the passenger window quickly comes to a grinding halt due to rust on the metal frame at the bottom of the glass. The corrosion throughout this metal piece is such it can not hold the glass in place anymore. After looking at things for a bit, decide to mount the glass in place until I am able to source a replacement metal frame. Drill three holes in the door skin for screws to prove a ledge for the window glass to rest on. The end of the screws line up with the bottom edge of the glass to securely retain it in the closed position. The upper trim piece is put back in place which covers and hides the screw heads.

Question: Are the metal frames for the windows different between the ones used on the coupe or are they the same in the coupe, sedan and wagon models?

Having already gone through reviving the taillight assemblies and license plate lights, the next area to address is the front marker lights and signals. This mainly involves wire brushing the bulb holders and cleaning up the grounds. It takes about 30 minutes to get all the lights reactivated, though the left turn signal function is persnickety and sporadic. Remove the wiring on the stalk switch to see if that helps and it does not. Replace out the flasher relay and this also does not revive them.

Next: Addressing The Non-Working Headlights

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[hiperfauto]

The front door elevator channel is the same for all body styles.

This tool works well for removing the interior door and window handles.

VINTAGE CAL-VAN TOOLS NO. 35 MOLDING / DOOR HANDLE CLIP PLIERS - USA | eBay

With its ergonomic design and efficient functionality, this tool makes light work of any job. It's an essential item for anyone who wants to get the job done quickly and effectively.

www.ebay.com

You can also use a rag wrapped around the shaft. Pull one end of the rag and it will grab the clip, removing it but it's easy to lose the clip as it might go flying off.

The flasher problem is likely a bad ground contact at the bulb holder. You may need to squeeze the tabs together so they make better contact. You can also push the center contact forward so there's more tension. Sanding the contact will help make a better connection too.

 

[polaris]

The front door elevator channel is the same for all body styles.

The flasher problem is likely a bad ground contact at the bulb holder. You may need to squeeze the tabs together so they make better contact. You can also push the center contact forward so there's more tension. Sanding the contact will help make a better connection too.

Thank you for the recommendations and information. Looks like someone snatched the tool two days after you posted the link. Wonder if was picked by someone reading this thread. I didn't pull the trigger after looking at the Ebay listing, most likely going to swap these handles/cranks with later ones with the larger clips which can be released by just sliding the trim piece to one side.

I'll certainly revisit the grounds on the drivers side turn signal assembly


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Lumos Maxima!

The main headlights have been dormant since acquiring the 122, as in not ever illuminating in the low or high-beam state. When first going through the car, I did test the drivers side headlamp to make sure that it was not burnt out. The primary suspect for non-working headlights is the floor foot switch. In preparation of extracting this out several weeks ago, hit the fasteners with some penetrant oil and worked loose the two mounting screws. After reviving the front marker lights, remove the switch from the floor and take it to the kitchen table as I want to see if it is repairable before having to go out and replace it.

The bottom plate is riveted to the main body and a drill makes quick work getting inside. There are several pieces in the inner workings and corrosion is everywhere. A wire brush hits the various contact points and soon the gold colored brass is shining once again. Spray a little lubricant on the center shaft to ensure it has freedom of movement. Reassemble the switch and use metal tape to secure the bottom plate to the main housing. Check continuity with a multimeter and the switch is once again working as designed. Install it back into place and both low and high-beams are available once again.

After waking up the exterior lighting, time to drive the 122 up the hill to take a couple shots of it against the San Francisco skyline. On the way back down after taking a 90 degree turn hear a “clang” along with the ringing of a rolling mechanical sound behind me. See a round object in the rearview mirror set itself down in the middle of the road. Pull a u-turn and go back to find the chrome headlamp trim ring had made a break for it but didn’t get too far. I am able to retrieve it before someone else makes the curve and flattens it. The next day while heading out I look at the 122 to see the passenger headlamp now has a white film inside the glass, a leading indicator it has left the chat. Pull the light switch on and going to the front of the car to find it is now a cyclops (cue: sad trombone). Another instance of crossing something off the to-do list only to add another entry at the bottom

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[polaris]

Cyclops Syndrome & Reviving The Turn Signals

A few weeks earlier I had fortuitously included a 7” seal beam headlight in a RockAuto order. Several months ago the headlight went out on my 242DL and ended up using my spare light on that car. While changing one of these should be a pretty straightforward operation, it took about 3 months on my 122. To access the headlight requires the removal of the chrome trim ring secured by a single philips screw located at the bottom. Start to turn the fastener and it all goes south in an instant when the mounting tab for the screws detaches from the headlight bucket housing due to corrosion. With this tab failing it means a replacement passenger side unit will need to be sourced.

The headlamp is held in place with a chrome retention ring and 3 mounting screws into the headlight bucket. Each one of these steel mounting screws are heavily rusted, this means starting a regiment of spraying penetrating fluid on each of these every couple of days. After 8-9 weeks, feel it is time to try and loosen these screws. One of the lessons learned while taking out the corroded fasteners on the fuel tank is first going in with a pick and cleaning out the passages in the screw head. Locate my Dewalt Philips bits and find the largest one having the tightest fit into the screws. Paring this with a ⅜” socket drive, start with the top outside mounting point. Emitting a small creak, the screw yields and begins to turn. Since these just have to be loosened to remove the chrome surround, stop after a full rotation. This is repeated on the top inner mount and then the bottom one. Unfortunately, the bottom one snaps the head off instead of moving, this one will need to be drilled out. Swap in the brand new light and toss the old one in the trash. For the meantime, both chrome trim remain in the footwell of the Amazon to allow for periodic application of penetrating oil on the four mounting screws on the headlight buckets.

Dig into the lack of a working left turn signal. Following hiperfauto’s advice in a previous post, begin with the bulbs and bulb holders. A couple of the bulb connectors up front are a bit crusty and a wire brush helps clean those up. Repeat the bulb connector cleaning with the taillights, but neither of these doesn’t help in reviving the left turn signal. Following the wiring, find the six wire connector under the dash for the turn signals. Checking for voltage, cannot find any evidence of power coming through that junction.

Head farther upstream to the turn signal switch on the steering column. Through the back I am able to get a lead onto the green connector and no electrons are in sight. Sitting back in the driver seat I move the stalk up and down to activate the left turn signal. After probably two dozen cycles, i see a momentary green light on the dash. This is when I realize the issue is with the stalk connection and not the bulbs or wiring. The turn signal is intermittent at best and after a dozen or two sweeps of the stalk arm, I discover pushing the stalk towards the dash as it is pulled downward will reliably activate the left turn signal.

Looking through Facebook market place I find a guy in the East Bay with a fair bit of 122 parts for sale, including headlight buckets. Reach out to him about few parts and make a deal on a decent nose piece as well as a replacement bucket. Turns out he works across the bay in the Peninsula about 15 miles to the south. Over lunch I drive down there and pick up the nose piece and a replacement bucket. A few weeks later the old bucket is finally removed after using a Dremel to grind out several of the heads of the mounting screws. This is is when I discover they are sided and I unintentionally picked up a drivers side unit instead of passenger side one. Trying it out in place, find the wiring is just long enough to still reach the headlamp. Everything is installed back in place and the headlights are back in business.

When accessing the turn signal/marker bulbs and putting things back together, the screws to hold in the lens and chrome trim are not biting into anything substantial. These are loose and seem to be barely holding things in place. After trying some larger screws, realize they are not really screwing into anything. Dig up a couple u-shaped clips for speakers and mount those onto the metal strip behind the bulbs. Using the original screws, they now have a place of purchase to lock into and I will not be risking losing a lens cover and chrome trim while out and about.

Next: Locking Fuel Cap Woes and Gas Tank Switcheroo

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[polaris]

The Great Gas Tank Switcheroo

The 122 has been operational and driveable because of a three-gallon boat tank in the passenger footwell. This has been workable but not a long-term solution in any way. In a previous post, I discussed the process needed to remove the fuel tank from its perch. (https://turbobricks.com/index.php?t...ter-a-40-year-hibernation.374378/post-6497224) After removing the fuel level sender it is pretty apparent a new tank will be needed due to the amount of varnish and other garbage at the bottom of the tank. Planning ahead for this eventual replacement, a year and half ago I order a replacement gas tank from IPD. (FWIW: July 2024 $338, March 2026 $905 for a replacement fuel tank.)

[

The one aspect keeping me from fully removing the tank is the locking gas cap. The key ring from the previous owner contained an ignition key, door key and a broken gas cap key. After trying all of the old WASO keys in my (and my friend’s) possession, end up ordering a lock pick set to see if I can remove it that way. Additionally, post on several different forums, groups looking to see if anyone had a specific WASO key (714) to see if that would unlock things, but didn’t get much response. Over a 4-5 month span attempt to pick the lock dozens of times without any movement or success.

With no luck on the key route, one suggestion is to simply go gorilla on the lock with a large screwdriver, which I end up finally resorting to utilizing this method. After a final effort with the lockpicks and a good deal of spray lubricant, decide this is a dead end. Locate the biggest screwdriver I can find and quickly realize this will also require leverage. Pull out my Craftsman screwdriver/allen/torx socket set, select the largest and widest one in the tray. Mount it onto a 3/8” drive and insert it into the lock opening. Do not go full-force on it but gradually increase the pressure on the handle. Finally I feel the cap start to rotate and the lock finally gives way but not exactly willingly. It requires a firm tug to release the cap along with the sound of material tearing. Turns out half the rubber seal remains on the perimeter of the filler neck and the other half comes off with the cap. Looking at the amount of corrosion on the end of the gas cap, begin to realize trying to pick the lock would be a futile effort. Fully remove the remnants of the rubber seal, after rooting through my garage find a B230 oil filler cap fits perfectly on the end of the filler neck.

Now with the ability to remove the gas tank out of the 122, begin to think about the installation and this is when I made a pivot. The brand new gas tank was not going to be put into the 122 but rather my 123GT and its tank would find a new home in the project car. Clearing out the trunk in the 123GT, discover it seems this tank might also be a replacement. There are only 6 of the 10 mounting screws and the VDO sending unit is dated 6/88 so definitely not the original one. This tank only has about a gallon in it so don’t bother draining it out. After removing the gas line and adapter off of the tank use a screwdriver to lift up the left side lip and it separates off the trunk floor without a struggle. Since there is less than a gallon of gas in the tank do not bother draining it. The interesting find is a 2 Euro coin in the body opening below the filler neck of the 123GT. Those only came about in the early 2000s so kind of wonder when it ended up inside the body work.

Scrub off the remnants of the sealant from the outer lip of the trunk floor. With a wire brush, scrape off some surface corrosion on the right and back side of the tank opening. Apply some spray paint to cover the bare metal surfaces. Once that dries, apply a bead/strip of butyl which came with the gas tank along the lip. Drop the new tank in place and install several of the mounting screws, the sending unit and hook up the adapter and gas line to the engine. The 123’s tank is taken to the 122 and this same installation is repeated there. Dump in about 1½ gallons of fresh gas and hook the gas line into the fuel pump along with a fresh in-line filter. After some cranking the filter gets wet with fuel from the tank and the engine finally coughs to life. As seen above, the 122’s fuel sender didn’t survive the long-term hibernation as the needle buries itself on the right hand side of the gauge when hooked up. This was apparent when starting work on pulling out the gas tank while I was still in my warehouse work space. Unhook the main wire to the dead sending unit. When turning the key to the #1 position the needle raises slightly indicating the gauge is working, it is just missing an accurate signal. Remove the trusty boat tank from the front foot well as well as the fuel line snaking through the engine compartment.

[

Next: The Blower Motor



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[ortho stice]

Oil cap on the gas tank is a genius discovery

 

[polaris]

Blower Motor Revival

While this 122S has sat dormant for decades, one aspect surprising me the most is how much of the electrical system still works and operates properly. Part of this is due to it not getting invaded by mice and other rodents as well as the inherent robustness of the subsystems themselves. Three systems have required some moderate level of attention with the first being lighting and illumination. This is to be expected due to the number of mechanical contacts being made by all the various bulbs with their respective connections. Most of these were easily brought back on-line by cleaning the various sockets and inspecting the wiring. The second area involved getting the turn signals to work reliably and this issue centered around the contacts inside the turn signal stalk itself. The last one involves the lack of a working blower motor. While not a large issue coming into the warmer months, there were times when the windshield has been fogged over on mornings with high humidity. Since putting a battery in the car shortly after picking it up, the lack of a blower motor has been on the to-fix list.

When pulling on the fan selector switch, nothing happens at all. What I did note when I tried this a couple weeks ago, is the electrical system does experience a voltage drop. This is seen when looking at the USB charger/voltmeter connected into the voltmeter. This indicated the motor is receiving power but is unable to do anything with it. Unlike the later 140/240s, the blower motor is easy to access from the engine compartment with six screws mounting it into housing along the firewall. Label the wires going into the motor then remove these along with the six fasteners. The mourning plate loosens easily though the rubber gasket sticks with great tenacity. Wiggle the fan assembly out and this is when I see the first issue. The space between the fan blades and the top of the heater core is totally packed with pine needles and other organic material. Fortunately this area was not turned into a mouse motel so it is only dried, vegetative material. After clearing this area out reach further into the housing and pull out more debris. This material has been exposed to moisture resulting in decomposition and is more like soil than leaves and twigs. All of this detritus is dumped along the curb to be swept up by the street cleaner later in the week.

Rotating the fan blades, find there is a little resistance but does turn without any crunchiness or rough spots. Blow out some residual pine needles and other material out from the windings. Grabbing a can of cable lube, gently and lightly spray the center shaft near the bearings to provide some fresh lubrication. Reinstall the assembly back into place and reconnect the wiring. Turn the key to the activate the electrical system and pull on the fan control to the first position. The motor immediately springs to life, but is also emitting a steady squeal as it rotates. About 8-10 seconds this subsides to just the ambient noise of the fan and air circulation. Pull the fan control to the second position and the speed slows accordingly. Turning it off and back on the squeal momentarily returns then dissipates within seconds.

https://flic.kr/p/2s5YWe4

After adjusting the dash controls, I still do not feel any airflow to the vents. End up applying some spray lubricant onto the vent door arms. While the dash controls move up and down the doors do not moving unless pulling on the arm directly. Looking at the controls, realize each of the cable sheaths are not secured down onto the mounting bracket. Those are tightened and now the various doors can be activated or closed once again from the dash controls. Remove out the illumination bulges from the top of the control assembly to find a burnt out bulb. Locate a suitable replacement amid my container of spare bulbs and plug it into place. The control assembly returns to its position in the dashboard after tightening the three mounting screws.

One of the things I notice while working on the blower motor was the condition of the wire going from the coil to the distributor. Insulation is missing with lots of copper strands visible. Dig out some spare wire along with a couple ring connectors and begin to assemble a suitable replacement. On a whim, decide to not keep it the original black but rather go with a bit of Swedish color with the yellow wire and the blue plastic shields on the connectors.

Next: Attempting to Revive the Speedometer & Odometer

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[Red Amazon]

Fan motor (and box): I was in your shoes many years ago. I recall removing a stiff fan motor and giving a few drops of 3 in 1 oil to the shaft and delrin bushing on the motor. I let it set, letting gravity pull the oil down overnight. The next day I flipped it over, gave it 3 more drops, and let gravity (again) work overnight. That was several years ago. The fan spins very free and still works like new. Somewhere I think I have a part number (?), from somewhere, for that delrin bushing. But I do not need that...

Coincidentally (this past month), I took a spare heater box apart and had it beed blasted. I plan (?) that I will paint it soon. But when I took that box apart, I tried to remove those other delrin bushings that keep a tight, or open closure on those two metal flaps, on the box. That was a mistake. One of the four bushings (sort of) survived the removal. I'll have to look somewhere for replacements (??)...(McMaster Carr?). -They are not going to be at the usual supply source(s).

So... If you get fancy with that box (refinishing it) keep that in mind. I also know that one of those rubber grommets, at the top of the box, is also not easy to find (an exact replacement).

If anyone has a source for those delrin door/flap grommets (-seven photos up on this thread) please share.