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1967 122S DOA In SF, CA (Revival of a, that is...)

In preparation of reassembly of the replacement gear, I have been looking at the positioning of the crankshaft and camshaft. Right now the camshaft is sitting with the keyway at the 12:00 position which puts the alignment mark at 8:00, directly opposed to the indicator mark on the crankshaft gear. At the same time, the distributor rotor is facing to #3 cylinder #4 cylinder post on the distributor cap (edit) and I was thinking should it be #1 cylinder. Rotating the camshaft to put the rotor towards cylinder #1 then the keyway would be sitting pointing all the way down and the alignment mark on the teeth would be at the 2:00 position instead. The various green books I have gone through: P1800 (1968), 140 (1972) and 240 (1975) have just shown the timing gear reassembly around the marks on the gears and nothing about the position of the distributor. Is the distributor something to be verifying or am I overthinking this?

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I'm impressed that the vice grips held on! Congrats.

Unlike the stub nose vice grips which were at their limit of opening, these could be locked down. Tapping the mallet, expecially when using the pickle fork would cause the teeth to slip in 3-5 hits as noticed by the amount of witness marks on metal sleeve. Persistance pays off.

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Don't worry about where the rotor is pointing for now. Install the timing gears such that the marks are right next to one another - at that point, your engine will be at TDC for #4. Adjust the distributor to suit.
 
Don't worry about where the rotor is pointing for now. Install the timing gears such that the marks are right next to one another - at that point, your engine will be at TDC for #4. Adjust the distributor to suit.

Makes total sense. It took me a bit to realized in my previous post I made a mistake with describing the rotor position and that it is indeed pointing to the distributor cap post for #4 cylinder and 180 degs out from #1 cylinder. Spent too much time trying to work out how the distributor had become out of time/position when it was my misinterpretation of the rotor position to the correct cylinder had been fueling this the whole time.

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glad to see a red fiber gear!... can't remember every having seeing a black one IRL before

I picked that gear up 20-some years ago from IPD to have as a spare for my 1970 1800. Yesterday afternoon finally received the camshaft gear assembly tool from hiperfauto and will be installing over the weekend.

When installing a new fiber gear, does anyone soak it in oil before installation or have you installed it dry? I have come across pre-lube/oiling prep being mentioned once during my research but nothing in the Volvo green service manuals about performing such a step during the process.

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When installing a new fiber gear, does anyone soak it in oil before installation or have you installed it dry? I have come across pre-lube/oiling prep being mentioned once during my research but nothing in the Volvo green service manuals about performing such a step during the process.
Soak? No, I haven't.

But I do squirt some oil on the gear after installation.
It may be overkill, but I figure it couldn't hurt.
 
The 1967 122S is finally back to operational status as of late yesterday afternoon. I would like to first thank hiperfauto with sharing both advice as well as lending the Volvo special tool for reinstalling the new camshaft gear into place. Secondly appreciation and thanks to the others who responded to my various posts with information, experiences and support. If not already evident, this was the first time time I have needed to replace the timing gears on the B18/B20. While the job is pretty straightforward, this one presented a challenge or two along the way.



Finishing the Job
My initial target was try and get the 122 up and running last Thursday as there street cleaning happens on Friday morning. On Wednesday afternoon found out USPS would not be delivering the installation tool until Friday afternoon, I knew this was not going to happen. Went out and poked around the 122 until the trio of parking enforcement officers made their run down the hill handing out tardy awards to the various cars. I explained the 122 was currently not starting and the first two grumpily nodded and moved on. The third one stopped and then responded, "This thing won't be here next Friday will it? I have to ask." I assured them it would not and they headed down the hill towards the next award winner. Friday afternoon the tool finally arrived but not in time enough to put it to use. On Sunday afternoon, it is time to get this wrapped up.

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To help with access to the front of the engine, the drivers side grill is removed off of the nose. In looking at the camshaft keyway, decide to off-center it a bit as I will need to adjust the crankshaft gear position to help slide the gear into place. After a bit of wrestling I get the cam gear seated and then when looking from the front notice the timing marks are not lining up, its a tooth off.

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Readjust both the position of the camshaft and crankshaft and the second attempt the timing marks are correctly aligned. By hand I am able to get the fiber gear pretty well seated and constantly checking to make sure the Woodruff key is in place. Install the special tool onto the end of the camshaft and snug it up. Slowly bring the gear into position as well as rotating the cam gear slightly to help it seat. Hiperauto relayed the tip of feeding a towel into the gears when torquing the camshaft nut. Hearing the "click" from the wrench is a totally satisfying sound.

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This is something I should have done before installing the camshaft gear. Remove the oil sprayer nozzle sitting above the camshaft gear and clean it out by spraing brake cleaner through it then put back into place. Squirting some oil onto the teeth of the fiber gear and spin the engine to help distirbute it.

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Apply a small bit of gasket paste onto the bottom corners of the timing cover and slip it onto the front of the engine. Tighten down all of the fastereners as well as the two oil pan bolts. Install the crankshaft pulley and as a final check, rotate the engine to TDC and compare the timing mark to the position of the distributor rotor. The fan, pulley and accessory belt are put back into place completing things on the engine itself. Drop the radiator in and reconnect the hoses and tighten down the clamps. Jump behind the wheel to start the engine. It cranks for a second before coming to life and settling into a steady idle. Success!

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and you talked your way out of a parking ticket

I have done that 2 times in the past, though the last time was about 10-12 years ago. The first time was while replacing a head gasket on a 1986 740T on the street. Everything was buttoned up on Thursday afternoon but the car would not start. Realized the wires inside the distributor had been broken when initially removing it and tried to resolder them but with no luck. Friday morning talked to Parking Enforcement and they let me pass. After the street sweeper passed by, packed up my tools and drove over to the Oakland Pick-n-Pull Found a replacement 740 distributor and before noon the engine was running. Then there was the time I saved Jello Biafra from getting a street sweeping ticket while at Bottom of the Hill around midnight.

I love your cars patina. Nice clean non leaking engine. Great job on fixing it.

Thank you, as I mentioned before this went a lot easier through the help of others. There was a certain amount of pleasure of working on an engine and in a engine bay which is not caked with grease & grime.


I never liked those black cam gears. They look like they were made of plastic instead of the original fiber material. IIRC they were made in Japan.

As a little bit of a postmortem, I did notice a marking on the failed fiber gear: "Made in Sweden". When looking around for options I did take a look what IPD had in stock and their fiber camgear gear kit includes what looks like to be a black-colored gear. The deep red colored fiber gear I installed into the 122 was one sold by IPD a long while ago which had "Made in Japan" on the packaging.

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