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1973 1800ES project

Hey pm alfa vs volvo. He put a b23 in a 1800 and in the lemons amazon. Fit pretty decent from what i remember and have the stock manifolds. He made his own mounts though to put the engine in there.

I know the 122 got a OHC swap but I am pretty sure their 1800 always had a B18 or B20.

As far as the exhaust manifold goes for the ES, I may have found a brand new $100 solution.....if it works it will be kind of hilarious. Scratch that - it will be absolutely hillarious
 
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Have you considered using a thinner booster to obtain better clearance for the intake?

Could you post a picture from the side overlooking the booster and intake to show the minimal clearance there is now?

I'm interested since I am installing a b230ft upright in a 1800ES and planning on a thinner booster and would like to know how thin it needs to be. The body is on the rotisserie and I haven't got to engine install stage yet.
Thanks
 
Have you considered using a thinner booster to obtain better clearance for the intake?

Could you post a picture from the side overlooking the booster and intake to show the minimal clearance there is now?

I'm interested since I am installing a b230ft upright in a 1800ES and planning on a thinner booster and would like to know how thin it needs to be. The body is on the rotisserie and I haven't got to engine install stage yet.
Thanks

From a little earlier in the thread - this is what a B21F intake looks like with the engine upright. You can see where the booster mounts up right behind it



I don't think you will have any way of fitting any booster in the standard location if you go upright, not without a highly custom intake manifold. When I was looking at going upright I was exploring either a remote booster or a hydroboost setup.
 
I know the 122 got a OHC swap but I am pretty sure their 1800 always had a B18 or B20.

As far as the exhaust manifold goes for the ES, I may have found a brand new $100 solution.....if it works it will be kind of hilarious. Scratch that - it will be absolutely hillarious

It did but he did a swap on an 1800 waaay back he told me. The 122s lemons has a b230 in it now.
 
Right now it has 1/4 of an inch, but the engine is not in it's final spot yet and once the manifold gets a little reworked it should have 3/4 to an inch.

https://yoshifab.com/store/pre-folded-yoshifab-aluminum-intake-plenum.html

Slapping that on further down the b21f runners would definitely help with clearance issues, seen it done a few times. It would be cool if someone with a KL racing intake on their car could measure from the crank center to the edge of the intake.
 
For what its worth on disc front, drum rear 120/1800 cars they can be used without a booster. I took it off of my '67 1800s for weight loss, which has a dual master two years ago and have logged 10k road miles and 900+ road racing miles with the VSCCA. At the same time Green Stuff pads were installed and it stops fine, but needs a higher pedal effort.

R32RennSport recently installed Porterfield pads in his 120 w/o a booster on Ian at High Performance Volvo recommendation and also reports good results.

The original master cylinder is 7/8" but the earlier models made before Girling boosters came into use had 1" bore units for higher pressure. I'm going to install a dual 1" Wildwood unit over the off season because I want more braking with less effort on the road. Although on the track the brakes work excellent as is.

I don't know how well this would work on the later all disc brake cars, but it might be worth taking a look at?
 
For what its worth on disc front, drum rear 120/1800 cars they can be used without a booster. I took it off of my '67 1800s for weight loss, which has a dual master two years ago and have logged 10k road miles and 900+ road racing miles with the VSCCA. At the same time Green Stuff pads were installed and it stops fine, but needs a higher pedal effort.

R32RennSport recently installed Porterfield pads in his 120 w/o a booster on Ian at High Performance Volvo recommendation and also reports good results.

The original master cylinder is 7/8" but the earlier models made before Girling boosters came into use had 1" bore units for higher pressure. I'm going to install a dual 1" Wildwood unit over the off season because I want more braking with less effort on the road. Although on the track the brakes work excellent as is.

I don't know how well this would work on the later all disc brake cars, but it might be worth taking a look at?

I can do fine without power brakes - my rally car runs Porterfield R4's with no booster and on stage or in traffic I don't have much of an issue with it.

The biggest thing stopping me from getting rid of it on the ES is the fact I want my 70 year old parents to feel comfortable enough to hop in and drive it anytime. They have let me store the car in the garage for much of the past 10 years and they don't mind keeping it there, they just both want to drive it someday.
 
I can do fine without power brakes - my rally car runs Porterfield R4's with no booster and on stage or in traffic I don't have much of an issue with it.

The biggest thing stopping me from getting rid of it on the ES is the fact I want my 70 year old parents to feel comfortable enough to hop in and drive it anytime. They have let me store the car in the garage for much of the past 10 years and they don't mind keeping it there, they just both want to drive it someday.

Well that makes perfect sense to me. Good luck with it. Maybe it will help some of the other guys with this swap.

Were can I find photos and info about your rally car?

If you are into it, there is a lot of pre-1975 Volvo vintage road racing and rally photos and info at this Facebook group myself and a couple of my friends started earlier in the year @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/232999844689051
 
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Well that makes perfect sense to me. Good luck with it. Maybe it will help some of the other guys with this swap.

Were can I find photos and info about your rally car?

If you are into it, there is a lot of pre-1975 Volvo vintage road racing and rally photos and info at this Facebook group myself and a couple of my friends started earlier in the year @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/232999844689051

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Here's my project thread for it. I need to make an update on it, done a few things with it over the summer.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=327882

Also, I am in that group - it's really neat but I've just been observing since my race Volvos are newer than 75 [both 83's.]

Makes me want to find a 142 to race. I still love doing Lucky Dog with friends in the 244 but I'd like to run on my own in more of a sprint style race.
 
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For what its worth on disc front, drum rear 120/1800 cars they can be used without a booster. I took it off of my '67 1800s for weight loss, which has a dual master two years ago and have logged 10k road miles and 900+ road racing miles with the VSCCA. At the same time Green Stuff pads were installed and it stops fine, but needs a higher pedal effort.

R32RennSport recently installed Porterfield pads in his 120 w/o a booster on Ian at High Performance Volvo recommendation and also reports good results.

The original master cylinder is 7/8" but the earlier models made before Girling boosters came into use had 1" bore units for higher pressure. I'm going to install a dual 1" Wildwood unit over the off season because I want more braking with less effort on the road. Although on the track the brakes work excellent as is.

I don't know how well this would work on the later all disc brake cars, but it might be worth taking a look at?


If you use a 1" master instead of a 7/8" master and the same power with your foot the pressure in the brake system will be lower.

Pressure: p=F/A

The higher A is, the lower will be p

The volume will be more at same level of pedal.

At same hydraulic pressure the pressure at your sole of your foot will be higher.

If you swap disc brakes to a drum system you need more volume, and pressure.

Modify the linkage at your brake pedal will be the solution

Good luck, Kay
 
If you use a 1" master instead of a 7/8" master and the same power with your foot the pressure in the brake system will be lower.

Pressure: p=F/A

The higher A is, the lower will be p

The volume will be more at same level of pedal.

At same hydraulic pressure the pressure at your sole of your foot will be higher.

If you swap disc brakes to a drum system you need more volume, and pressure.

Modify the linkage at your brake pedal will be the solution

Good luck, Kay

Thanks for setting the record straight turns out you are right! Just another good example of how you shouldn't believe everything you read on the internet.
 
Things have been a little slow around here on the ES front but for good reason.

I got married in September with about 20 friends and family watching in a large grove on my client's property. Immediately went on our honeymoon for a week to the desert.

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Came back, moved across town from our little cabin in the woods to our new house which is on a bluff overlooking the Monterey Bay and Capitola village.

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I say new house, but it's old - really ****ing old. Oldest house in Capitola- it's so old my great great great grandfather and his friend moved the materials to build it by horse over the Santa Cruz mountains. It's been in my family 140 years now. We've been doing many improvements to it - we started by spending a few weeks ripping out the floors and painting inside.

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Did some touch up on the outside. Now that's all done and we're moved in, so we are starting on to the big part - completely redoing the yard. We are getting a dog and every place we want to adopt from requires a 5 foot fence enclosing the property, so I've started on that. Also working on landscaping everything, ripping out stupid invasive ivy and building a firepit/outdoor cooking area. If I finish and have enough room left over, I might build myself a lil half pipe to skate on.

Most importantly, going to get to work soon on making the driveway solid and once that is done we are building a 1-car garage in the back corner of the property with a small grandma unit above it.

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I've poked and prodded the 1800 a couple times here and there. Picked up a Yoshifab modifed b21f intake from towery and it fits the slanted OHC engine in the 1800 bay like a glove, so I will be using it.

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Probably going to finally modify the engine bracket next week so the engine will rest in it's hopefully final spot.
 
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Wowza. It's been a few years. To put things in perspective, progress with the car came to a grinding halt after my last post due to life things. I guess since this car has been with me a good chunk of my life I guess I can update on that too.

Around the time of my last post and shortly after, I was experiencing some pretty serious health issues. I dropped almost 25 lbs from my normal weight, I was experiencing extreme fatigue and spending a lot of time in bed, waking up each morning covered in sweat and I was also coughing up black phlegm. I quit working on cars and the house. To make things more interesting, my wife and I found out in December 2020 we were expecting a child.

After a few ER visits, as well as chest X-rays, a CT scan of my lungs/airways and oxygen/blood tests I was sent to a pulmonologist. I was diagnosed with COPD in March 2021. I had already quit smoking in December which was the primary factor behind it. But at this point I stopped caring about car stuff and just wanted to focus on my health since the baby's due date was in September. Paige [my daughter] was born on September 29th, 2021.

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I had saved up money from 2019-2020 to go racing my rally car again which never happened. I had always dreamed of owning a set of perfect Recaro LS-C with the orange spectrum fabric, and after finding a pair that honestly cost the same amount of what I paid for the whole car in 2008 I plunked down the cash and had them shipped from Thailand shortly after Paige was born. By some wild luck, I made an order with a company for some bolt in Recaro brackets for 1800's that came with sliders. A month later, they got bought by Corbeau and quit making Recaro brackets.

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Fast forward about 2 years, had not done much with the ES but in fall 2023 something remarkable happened. For the first time in my 20 years of junkyarding, an 1800ES showed up at the Moss Landing Pick N Pull!

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I was on it like a fly on sh!t the morning it got set. 5 minutes after I showed up more guys were showing up to strip it and we were asking each other what all we were taking. Over the years of moving the non running ES and the boxes and boxes of parts, I lost many many parts including the wiper motor/linkage, heater box assembly and most of the dash. The backseat had some broken pieces and there were many other bits and bobs that were gone. I got to the ES the morning it was set and got every single missing part, and on top of it the car had iPD sway bars so I snagged those. My receipt totaled close to $500. I was previously looking at various parts sources for this stuff and was expecting to spend closer to $2500 for it all so this was a gigantic victory.

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With that out of the way, I went back to focusing on other projects for a while. Ryan Fay one day told me he had a set of Virgos for sale that were in good shape, and honestly I had been thinking about some for the ES for a while and after having him drop them off a few weeks ago I went ahead and mounted them and it kind of got me thinking about the car again.

I started mocking up stock exhaust manifolds. The stock NA manifold turns down and hits the control arm too much to work. Stock turbo manifolds, with the turbo in the stock location have zero chance of working. I started investigating maybe getting a tight radius 90 degree cast elbow welded to the turbo flange on the 90+ so that it makes it sort of a top mount solution and clears the control arm. But it seemed ghetto.

I remember earlier in the year some drama that arose from a turbo manifold group buy [Kangaroos Team] with some manufacturing errors. I made a meme poking fun at it, but in reality they dealt with their mistakes better than any other part mfg I've ever seen in the Volvo community.

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I remembered its shape and though to myself, hell it might just work.

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After taking my own measurements, and than comparing them to some measurements sent to me by a group member who had one in his hands, I'm fairly positive it is going to work so I am going to get one in my hands hopefully here soon.

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Having this solution finally figured out has vaulted the car up the priority list by about 3 cars. Sometimes I wonder how much I could get done if I would just focus on one thing at a time but oh well.
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Sunday night shortly before midnight, instead of waiting a week for people to respond to my wanted ad as I had planned, I went ahead and ordered the header from The Kangaroos Team out of sheer impatience.

60 hours later the thing arrived at my house from Bulgaria....DHL can be wild.

I went ahead and drove over to where the car was stored. Not surprisingly the manifold fit great, just a couple of caveats

1. I really wish the external wastegate provision was an option, if it was not part of the casting the manifold would fit totally perfect. But with the flange and the blanking plate in place, it barely hits a body seam that is above the control arm. It could be remedied with a thinner blanking plate, but I think my solution will be taking it to a welder that is familiar with welding cast and can remove the provision and shut the hole since a thinner plate will still potentially contact.

2. I was only planning on running a K24 or a 19T, but anything larger I don't think will work. I test fit the manifold with a 15G I had laying around, and with the hood in place it is very close. The other good news with the hood on is that the Yoshi intake also clears by a few MM.

This is all very pleasing. Finding either a turbo and/or intake manifold to fit my long planned OHC turbo setup was always a daunting task, and I think I can now say I have both. I think these revelations kinda make me not worry about other projects much so I can focus on this one.

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1. I really wish the external wastegate provision was an option, if it was not part of the casting the manifold would fit totally perfect. But with the flange and the blanking plate in place, it barely hits a body seam that is above the control arm. It could be remedied with a thinner blanking plate, but I think my solution will be taking it to a welder that is familiar with welding cast and can remove the provision and shut the hole since a thinner plate will still potentially contact.
That manifold looks to fit really well! All of the pushrod people are going to be getting that now for turbo sohc swaps.

For removing the wastegate: A round slug of material TIG'd in with some stainless rod would be my preferred method of accomplishing that. Then you can grind down and smooth out the wastegate flange.
 
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