• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

1976 242 build

Yes there are two different types of bends, vertical and horizontal plain bends, and round to oval adapters. The only problem with oval pipe is how damn expensive it is. The good thing is how tight you can get everything.
 
I have 3" round, we built it to be 1/2" from the stock trans cross member. I guess I need to be lower...but my tires are so tall that I just never had clearance issues. :e-shrug:

Mine goes under axle, and my Bilstein HDs are ~1" shorter than standard off the shelf HDs. We lifted the car and let the axle droop, raised the axle 1/2", and then built the exhaust to touch the axle. When at ride height, the exhaust is close but never touches the axle. When jacked up, it pulls lightly on the exhaust hangers.

I think the biggest mistake some people make is to use a V-band on the horizontal section up near the front. Those always get hammered on speed bumps, etc. I put one in the vertical section of the downpipe.
 
Acurry6 said:
No side exit for you towery?
Click to expand...
It's pretty much the worst thing ever when you've cut open your rear wheel wells and left them open. ;-) I really like the rear exit 3" with single bullet muffler. It's kind of loud outside the car, but not bad at all inside because it exits past the rear bumper.

Plus, I don't like how a side exit fits. It ends up needing to be close to the body, so you can't hang it on soft rubber mounts to take up the vibration. It always seems to hit against the floor. Really stiff engine-twist-prevention might help alleviate that, but then you add more vibration. A flex joint right before it turns to go out the side would probably solve it hitting the floor, but that would definitely require a hanger on the chassis out near the end of the exhaust.

The only side exit I did that was really intended was solid from the head to the tailpipe. There was a hanger near the rocker. It cracked 3/4 of the way around the pipe at the end of the 2-into-1 non-turbo down pipe. I definitely needed a flex section, but it wasn't a long term exhaust solution, so I didn't bother using one.
 
I had a dual setup my 245.

A side exit for race and a rear exit for daily use. It fit very tight and nicely in both setups. I 100% preferred the rear exit. The side exit was so loud that i had to run ear plugs when driving the car or I would have a headache.

The side exit was lighter than the rear setup but I dont think the weight savings was worth it.

I also didn't have any boost control with the side exit. :lol:
 
Yes I have realized that it is twice as loud as it used to be so now my ears ring when I hammer on it because of how loud it is, but since it doesn't get driven a whole lot I can live with it.
 
Still waiting on the driveshaft to be finished, they told me late Monday. Tonight we finished up everything else. The YoshiFab x member needed modified to fit my oval exhaust so we ended up notching it out and boxing it back in and it turned out perfect. I now have more room than I did with the stock x member. I'm really excited to see how this thing feels with the new trans.













 
Couple things about custom wheels....on Rob's car, the lug holes on the rear wheels were an issue because there wasn't a chamfer on the inside of the hole, and the hole was possibly smaller than on an OEM wheel. The shoulder of the wheel stud was proud of the surface of the rotor, so the wheel wasn't getting clamped against the rotor (and therefore hub). Instead, the wheel was clamped against the shoulder of the studs, and it would loosen up quickly/easily on track. That made for some fun dremel work on-site at Mid Ohio.

The other issue that's not really an issuer per say is when you need high disk wheels up front to clear wide/large calipers. The lug holes might not be set deep into the wheel if the center of the wheel is quite thick, thus requiring long wheel studs just to bolt on the wheel, even without a spacer.
 
towerymt said:
The other issue that's not really an issuer per say is when you need high disk wheels up front to clear wide/large calipers. The lug holes might not be set deep into the wheel if the center of the wheel is quite thick, thus requiring long wheel studs just to bolt on the wheel, even without a spacer.
Click to expand...

Good thing long studs are a phone call away
:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top